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Thread: New to Slayer

  1. #1
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    New to Slayer

    Ok, I am still newer to the Nitro scene. I got my first slayer, but 3rd nitro truck, so I have a fair grasp on what I am doing at this point. I broke in my slayer, and now I am trying to get a grip on the driving and such. I have decided that at the least the rear suspension is too soft, and I see that I am not the only one coming to this conclusion skimming through different forums with other new owners. Problem I found was that it was highly recommended changing out the springs, specifically in the rear, but no one recommended a new rate. So lets start there, with some spring rates. It looks like my slayer is dragging its rear, it squats so much under acceleration. I like the front, but I'm not familiar with how that will change once I swap out the rear. Also, how effective is the center diff at reducing acceleration squat? I'm looking already into the sway bars. Also, like I stated, I am still newer, but it feels as though the slayer has quite a bit of weight to it, and looking at the race ready gear, it all seems to be towards lightening up the slayer, does anyone have a good list of what all is recommended lightened for competitive racing?

    Any information would help, I have found too much time on my hands and the tinkering helps me keep my mind focused.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Welcome to the fourms, and the Slayer section! For a spring rate, I would use the gold or tan springs. This chart is for the Revo, but it works for the Slayer too. The center diff will help with the acceleration squat, because the center diff will allow the power to go to the front/rear, instede of 100% to both wheels, so when it sqauts, the front can lift up, letting the center diff put more power to the front wheels, thus getting rid of the squat. If you want to get rid of weight, the quickest and best way to do that would be to get rid of the EZ start, and put in a pull start. It saves alot of weight doing that. You can also buy aluminum parts to replace the steel parts, but that doesn't shave off much weight. Getting the sway bars will add some weight, but it worth every gram of weight it adds.. Hope this helps! If you have any more questions, just ask! We are here to help!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  3. #3
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    Thanks, so is the weight of the vehicle not a big issue? I dont seem to see much information on it on the forums, but instead information on handling, rollovers, and getting more power.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    There isn't much you can do about the weight. I mean, it has an almminum chassis, a large gas tank, (when filled) a heavy nitro enigne, and the ez start. IMO, weight is somthing you just have to deal with. So no, the weight isn't really a issue. Hope this helps!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

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    It does, helps me with figuring out where to put my focus, thanks.

  6. #6
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    Slayer is a good truck Stock ! it doesnt realy need any upgrad except for Sway Bar and stiffer shock oil (50wt) ! That it !

    you can put a rear brake if you want and a center diff .. other then that it like aluminium part for the look!

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    we are talking about the 50 wt oil on a different thread, but 50 seems very excessive. the stock 30 wt is nice, but the springs are still too soft. but I ran 50 in my jato for a short time and its very bouncy if the asphalt is not smooth enough, I would think it would be extremely stiff off road.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    we are talking about the 50 wt oil on a different thread, but 50 seems very excessive. the stock 30 wt is nice, but the springs are still too soft. but I ran 50 in my jato for a short time and its very bouncy if the asphalt is not smooth enough, I would think it would be extremely stiff off road.
    Sounds about right, and that last sentence is 100% correct.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  9. #9
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    wolf, are the spring rates you put up the same for the ones on the slayer? My slayer came with yellow rear shocks, and white front. Based on the chart you put up, that would definately explain my sag issues.

  10. #10
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    This is straight from the Slayer manual. You can go to a stronger spring but it is recommended you go to a thicker oil otherwise that truck will be bouncing all over the place.

    Spring Color Stripe Color Spring Rate
    Red Double Pink 1.4 N/mm (8.0 lb/in)
    Red Double Blue 1.6 N/mm (9.1 lb/in)
    Red Double Green 1.8 N/mm (10.3 lb/in)
    Red Double Black 2.0 N/mm (11.4 lb/in)
    Red Double Purple 2.3 N/mm (13.1 lb/in)
    Red Yellow 2.6 N/mm (14.8 lb/in) (Standard Rear)
    Red White 2.9 N/mm (16.6 lb/in) (Standard Front)

    Red Orange 3.2 N/mm (18.3 lb/in)
    Red Green 3.5 N/mm (20 lb/in)
    Red Gold 3.8 N/mm (21.7 lb/in)
    Red Tan 4.1 N/mm (23.4 lb/in)
    Red Black 4.4 N/mm (25.1 lb/in)
    The Super Derecho

  11. #11
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    Now that confuses me a little. Would not a thicker fluid cause the shocks to not absorb the impacts as well, being the actual cause to the "bouncy" feeling? I seem to absorb my impacts fairly well, not bottoming out, however the shocks do not return to the pre-shock distance due to the load on the springs being too heavy. This causes the vehicle to continue to sag until it is at an almost completely compressed spring. I want to keep the Slayer off road, but it needs to be able to return the shocks for the next bump, which it is not doing. By increasing the fluid density, this would drastically change the ability of the shock to absorb hard impacts with a higher density fluid, and this does not seem to be the effect I am looking for.
    I'm crazy, no really I am.

  12. #12
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    That's the fun part of adjustable shocks. A good read: http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
    The Super Derecho

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    nice, thanks!
    I'm crazy, no really I am.

  14. #14
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    ok, just finished the suspension portion, and took the Slayer out for a closer look at the handling from a further educated point of view, and I am going to hold off on the shock springs until I get the sway bars. I'm also debating about my anti squat, but Ill re-evaluate everything after I get some anti roll bars
    I'm crazy, no really I am.

  15. #15
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    Last edited by madjoker911; 10-23-2012 at 09:52 PM. Reason: answers leading to more answers
    I'm crazy, no really I am.

  16. #16
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    I upgraded the rear springs and added the sway bars at the same time due to the squatting issue also. I can't remember what color springs I used will have to look when I get home. I also moved the rear body mounts up as high as possible and that helped a lot. It was rubbing the paint off of the body over the rear tires, but after the springs and moving the mounts, problem solved!

  17. #17
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    well, since is payday, I just ordered my sway bars, the rear wing mounting kit, and found push rods for super cheap on amazon so grabbed those as well. I have decided to wait to re-evaluate the squat after getting the center diff, sway bars, and drilled out the piston's on the shocks. I have been reading up on the RC control "book" double g posted, explains how exactly the different components of your suspension works. I feel that if I were to upgrade the shocks, before adding a center diff, sway bars and rebuilt my shocks, I would have to change my shock rate again after I finished my project, so instead I just altered my driving, and started with the sway bars, which should help also reduce squat in certain situations.
    I'm crazy, no really I am.

  18. #18
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    still waiting on my sway bars, went bashing today, had a high speed flip that ended in breaking both A-arms on the left side. Luckily they sell the slayer arms by side and not top and bottom. Got the new A-arms on but had a question. This time I just screwed out the ball joints, but when I replace them, how do you pop them out?
    I'm crazy, no really I am.

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