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  1. #1
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    Integy C22559 engine roll cage install issue

    So I landed my truck engine first a couple weeks back, and after attempting to straighten the chassis a couple times and spitting 3 slipper clutches off into the ether, I finally accepted the obvious. I am starting over with a new chassis. It's not hard to imagine another (cylinder)head-first landing, so I also bought an engine roll cage. I finally have enough parts to start assembling things, but I ran into a number of issues with the cage. Yah, yah - I know, Integy sucks - yep, duly noted. No fasteners included (holes don't line up anyway, so maybe they didn't expect me to need them) and it seems they gave no thought to installation with sway bars etc. But the biggest issue is that the attach point at the engine mount is flat, where the engine mount itself is angled:

    like so...



    I've seen pictures of this thing on Revos, but I've never noticed how they handled the engine mount interface. Obviously I don't want to just put a bolt in there and draw it up tight - I'll just bend my new chassis. That weld looks mighty crappy, and it makes me somewhat leery to start reefing on it to make the roll cage flange a similar angle to the engine mount, but that's about the only idea I had.

    Any other/better ideas?

  2. #2
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    Yea i was going to say the same thing about the welds. If it was me i'd chop that end off and re-weld it back together myself to make it work. wouldn't be the first new part that needed modded to work. And not like your going to hurt the warrenty cause i'm pretty sure there warrenty only is good untill you put the park on your truck.

    I'm actually getting around to make my own with some steel rod i can get at work. that way there is no questions on the fit.

    Where did you get your new chassis from? I saw dollarhobbyz.com has them for like 7 bucks. But not sure on them seeing they are like 60 bucks from traxxas.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Welcome to the fourms! IMO, I would just bend the tab over to meet the screw hole, not bend the chassis, And if it didn't line up well, then I'd just use super glue.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  4. #4
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    Unfortunately, I'm limited to my hacksaw and JBWeld as far as tools go, so I think at this point I'll see what I can do about bending it to match. I got the chassis from my lhs for $49 - then noticed I could have bought one off ebay for $17 - doh.

    Thanks Wolf, I've been lurking all summer. Heh, I think I'll be avoiding the super glue - thanks for thinkin of me though.

  5. #5
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    You can try bending it, but without any heat you may bend alittle more than you want to. And it may just distort yor screw hole and take it out of alignment. Cause from what I can see there's not much of a tab to bend, to make up for that gap.

    Another option you could have is maybe make a spacer and install it between your cage and motor plate to fill in the gap. That might be your best option with your limited tool option.

    so was just thinking I don't have my truck by me but doen'st the side bumper mount up there also? or something else?
    Last edited by BomberSTi; 10-18-2012 at 11:10 AM.

  6. #6
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    I bent the tab some, bent the tube some, bent the tube some more, bent the tab a little more etc and it's pretty dang close. Pretty dang frustrating though too. I thought about a spacer, but then I'd need one under the chassis too, and I really didn't want to do that if it could be avoided. I think what I've got works, but it was tedious trial and error. If I had a welder, I could have made my own in less time.

    The nerf bar mounts farther forward. It is fastened through the same hole that the plastic handle/roll bar like substance mounted too - so there wasn't anything else that mounted there.

  7. #7
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    well glad you got it to fit.

    yea i was just having one of those mornings and was out there in lala land and thought the nerf bar and roll bar mounted there. lol..

    post some pics when you get it all back together...

  8. #8
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    NEVER. BUY. ANYTHING. INTEGY. PERIOD. NO exceptions.
    "I like rc cars"....."WHAT? YOU'RE KIDDING!"

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    NEVER. BUY. ANYTHING. INTEGY. PERIOD. NO exceptions.
    Well, you can buy Integy parts for some things, they are not all bad, at being great paper weights!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  10. #10
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    Yeah, I was really hoping to find an engine (only) cage made by someone else but ... no dice.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by upbasher View Post
    NEVER. BUY. ANYTHING. INTEGY. PERIOD. NO exceptions.
    I would say their tools are OK. I've a set of Ti Nitrate coated hex wrenches that have lasted a long time, and they don't roll off the table (hate that with Hudy's,,, and mine have lasted just as long). You can also replace the shafts if need be... I haven;t needed to since having them in like 2006? And I've built, rebuilt, modd'd, and used the heck out of them...

    Also their spring sets,,,, They are good too... Their alignment tools are worthy as well....

    I would say Integy aluminum "structural" parts would be what I avoided..... Not a fan of their exhausts either...
    Robin Williams
    He will be greatly missed...

  12. #12
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    Bomber, just for the record, you were right. I just started working on moving everything else over from the old chassis, and sure enough, the nerf bar does share an attach point with the roll bar. It mounts beneath the chassis, and the roll bar on top of the chassis. In this case it would only have made matters worse (for this cage install), as it shares the same angle as the engine mount portion of the chassis, so if I had gone the spacer route ... yah, I'd be hosed.
    Anyway, it wasn't you in lala land - it was me.

  13. #13
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    Every time I thought I was finished with the cage, it seemed I found more interferences. But here's the engine mount side after bending both the tube and the attach point:

    Way too much trial and error there - I spent as much time working on the cage as I did installing everything on the new chassis.
    The front stabilizer (if installed) has to be relieved a bit as well (I got carried away with the dremel here):

    And there was also interference between the inboard cage mount and the rear brake bolt. Again, more time with the dremel created enough space to accommodate both. Tough to see in this pic, but trust me, I ground a fair amount away with a coarse sanding drum:

    Last, but definitely not least, I would highly recommend the M2C1020 engine mount reinforcement plate:


    I've spent the last 3 days bashing the crap out of this setup and burned about 1/3 of gallon of fuel. It has withstood absolutely everything I could throw at it. I tore both rear tires (original kit tires) loose from their wheels tonight, and caught some awfully rough landings (yeah, I tried to make the triple a single - it ended poorly). But at the end of it all, my gear mesh is still looking good. If you don't have a cage, this will work - just go into it knowing it's a starting point, not ready to install. And I highly recommend the M2C brace.

    Obviously all of this added significantly more weight than I would have liked, so I need to retune my suspension now. But that's a good sight better than having to change engine mounts and chassis if you catch a bit too much air.

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