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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    Awesome dd!! Nice touch on wrapping the wires. I've been doing that on my last couple of builds. I bought a handful of different shades a while back. That stuff seems to last forever. haha I'll be working my way around to the rest of my rigs soon enough. With winter coming around and shorter days, that should leave me some spare time to hook up the rest of my fleet.

    The cable wrap you have looks close to the one i've been using. Man those losi 1/8 shocks are frigg'n huge!! I dig em.

    Keep up the good work!
    thanks Digger. I rushed the motor wire mesh and melted it a little on the red and white wires. I might do over to get it perfect. The red and white wires bleed through the mesh, so i might wrap those wires with black tape before installing the mesh.

  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirty don View Post
    thanks Digger. I rushed the motor wire mesh and melted it a little on the red and white wires. I might do over to get it perfect. The red and white wires bleed through the mesh, so i might wrap those wires with black tape before installing the mesh.
    I like how mine came out like that on the leads coming from the ESC to the battery. Just me though I guess.
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  3. #43
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    Any recommendations for camber and steering links for this project? I have protrac front and back. I was planning on using the protrac links. What about Lunsford? Part numbers and links would be appreciated!

  4. #44
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    Hey Dirtydon, I'm in the market for links too. You're best bet for the Lunsford swap would be to measure the protrac links, convert them to inches and order accordingly. I think I remember 2 5/8 inch for the steering. Vxl rear camber links have worked really well for me on the front and back of the truck. They arent the best, but have been pretty durable for the most part. Its those protrac steering links that are as soft as butter. Actually, all ofthe protrac links are like butter but it's the front end that takes most of the hammering

  5. #45
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    Sounds good oaks. A lot of members here say protrac links are soft. I have had them on my P4de for about 3 months now. I hit a steel water meter frame amd broke a protrac arm, but no damage to camber or toe link. I ordered a replacement protrac kit for the p4de to replace front a-arm. So now I have a complete set of links extra. After I saw your reply I took a look at those extra links. Kit came with (4) 50mm camber and (2) 70mm toe. Those are exactley what the slash/p2de protrac measurements are. So I might just pick up some rpm rod ends and use what I've got. If I start breaking them then I will look into something else. I have already spent a Ton of $ on this thing, and it's still sitting in plastic trays!lol thanks for your help though.

  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Don, if you think youve alredy spent a lot of money on the truck, just wait until its all put together and you start breaking and upgrading all the parts you just bought! Lol


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  7. #47
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    REM parts are in. Driving to my dads to pick em up. My SPC battery is also in. Cant wait to try it out.

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  8. #48
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    Assembling the REM transmission. Using white lithium grease on all moving parts.

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  9. #49
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    Ok guys let the questions begin. 1st when closing up the alloy transmission do i use thread lock on the screws? 2nd in the attached picture there are (2) shims included with the flm diff. Where do the shims go?

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  10. #50
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    Working on the front end. Alot of dremel work to get the protrac arms on the bulkhead and have free up and down movement. I got it though.

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  11. #51
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    Couldnt help myself, had to throw some green on there tonight.

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  12. #52
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    Here is the complete REM alloy package. Front bulkhead and transmission not pictured due to under construction.

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  13. #53
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Man you are going to love that setup!! I'm a huge fan of REM parts. Even though I only have their Gearbox. I've always wanted a full REM truck. The furthest i've went with all alloy is my Emaxx Brushless. It sports mostly FLM. Totally sweet look'n. Speaking of which I need to take that bad boy out for a spin. I think my 1/8 scale trucks are jealous at the momento. LOL
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  14. #54
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    Do you have the link to those losi shocks?

  15. #55
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    Just got done with the rear protrac a-arms. Took a bit of dremeling to get them on there and move freely. Man i am so excited to finally be building this thing. I have been building it in my head for the past three weeks.lol got a little overwelmed last nite, so i just walked away and started fresh this morning. Got rcnightmare videos playing in the background and the wife is at work. Man what could be betted! Here are some more pictures.

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  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx_Adam View Post
    Do you have the link to those losi shocks?
    Not sure how to link, but I bought them off eBay. The company is RC-Waffle. I just typed in losi 8eight shocks. They are $69.00. I just looked, they are still listed on the bay. They are huge shocks. Had to Dremel out the protrac a-arm to fit the bottom shock mount in. Glad I noticed that now. I see it's better to prefit parts before it gets difficult to get to. Good luck!

  17. #57
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    Ok done for the nite. Here is my progress.

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  18. #58
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Looking real sweet man, too bad they didn't make a green case or cover for that servo, that would be a cool option. The red servo throws off your color combo just a little bit; if I were you id black that sucker out to keep your theme pure. Looks good!

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  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post
    Looking real sweet man, too bad they didn't make a green case or cover for that servo, that would be a cool option. The red servo throws off your color combo just a little bit; if I were you id black that sucker out to keep your theme pure. Looks good!

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    Good eye baldy. I might go ahead and paint the servo. I think green would be cool if i can find the right color, if not then black it is. My savox servo is more orange than red. Hey baldy do your 1/8 scale shocks extend fully. I played around with mine last nite. They will be a tad to long. It will work, just wont get the full shaft compress. My shocks are huge! I might have to connect the bottom of shock to the leading edge of the protrac arm. It looks like if i mount the bottom of shock in the middle of aarm like its suppose to go, then i wont have enough clearance with shock and sho k tower. Im sure you have all the answers i need. I made a screenshot of your truck on my ipad, and i use that picture alot for reference. So thanks for that.

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  20. #60
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    This is what i thought of the REM package i recieved. I ordered my rem package on 10-5-12. I also opted for the anodizing of the parts. This adds a few extra days waiting for the parts. I received the REM package 10-29-12. Every part was accounted for and induvidually sealed in plastic. Then they put each part in bubble bags. Nothing damaged and black anodizing was pretty good. Each part came with its own set of stainless hardware. Had no problems so far with the thread holes on the parts. Every part went together with ease. I am really impressed with the trans case, as it just (2) pieces and very smooth inside of it. The bearings popped in the trans with no trouble. The two halves go together tight and right. There are two removable guide pins inside trans for easy alignment and rigidity i guess. I ordered the complete stampede REM package, but will not ne using the rem a-arms or rear bearing carriers at this time. Here is a picture with the castle 2400 temporary installed. This motor being green is the reason for a green theme. Thanks for reading.

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  21. #61
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    This looks awesome! the webbing of the rem chassis and towers matches the protrac arms nicely.

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    This looks awesome! the webbing of the rem chassis and towers matches the protrac arms nicely.
    Good eye Oaks! I never even noticed. Now that I looked it over I see what you mean.

  23. #63
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    "MiP" grub screws and threaded collars cleaned with isopropyl alcohol then red threadlock applied. Set aside overnight to dry, then tomorrow i will apply a lite coating of moly lithium grease to all moving parts of shafts.

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  24. #64
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    Oh and i wanted to say that mips are excellent parts when the time is taken to assemble them correctly. Patience!

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  25. #65
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    RPM motor guard installed. Looks like it will really help protect my motor. Just got a delivery update, Swami Bar should be delivered today. Cant wait to check out the infamous swami! Check out my picks of rpm motor guard.

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  26. #66
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    RPM got motor covered.

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  27. #67
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    Took the advice of a forum member and painted my savox servo black. Searched for a green paint to match, but could not find one. Oh well black it is. MIP shafts installed.

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  28. #68
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    I forgot which forum member mentioned these "Lunsford Titanium" motor mount screws, but man they sure are worth the $ !

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  29. #69
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    Rear camber links done. I just went with the protrac links with some new traxxas ends. Not wanting to stress out on trying to find better links right now. Dont plan on bashing this pede , links should work out fine. Unless i wreck it going 70 mph! Lol. I said it 70 mph. Its possible.

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  30. #70
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    I know alot of pics, but i cant help it. This is my build lol. Progress so far. Now were is that swami?

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  31. #71
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    I almost changed my mind on using these little shocks. Now that i have one mocked up, i love it. And the rear even came with green springs. How did it know?

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  32. #72
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    All I have to say is WOW! I am loving this build! I cant wait to see this thing run,but I would be to scared to mess it up.Awesome job!

  33. #73
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    Thanks Josh. Leaving at noon for Pensacola FL. Blue angels time. Can't wait. The build will be on hold. Peace

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirty don View Post
    I almost changed my mind on using these little shocks. Now that i have one mocked up, i love it. And the rear even came with green springs. How did it know?

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    I don't think your shocks are to big I like the size of them because I like the look of having more than you need after I got my shocks I seen someone had the same ones on a pede but they were for a 1/8 scale they looked the same just bigger




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  35. #75
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    Glad you decided to take my advice, now that servo matches the build! I read a previous post of yours saying that you were planning to use grease on the moving parts of the MIP's, your best bet will be to use a dry lube as grease tends to attract the dirt and debris which will end up causing more wear of these parts. On previous sets I've owned, i used a graphite spray lube that dries after its applied. It worked pretty good and didn't collect dirt etc, but had to be applied quite often and makes a mess if you miss the part and hit the table. Lol On the x duty mips I'm using now i opted to not use anything at all and just run em dry. After running them this way for 30+ runs, to my surprise they show no signs of wear and no slop at all.

    What gearing combination are you going to start with? That 2400 is gonna need some seriously tall gearing to get anywhere near 70mph, and will need an extremely capable lipo to match. Are you gonna stay with the 48p gears?

    Man your truck is looking tight, and whadda ya mean you're not gonna bash it? How are ya gonna test the integrity of all them fancy parts? Lol What are your plans for this truck? Speed runs only?


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  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post
    Glad you decided to take my advice, now that servo matches the build! I read a previous post of yours saying that you were planning to use grease on the moving parts of the MIP's, your best bet will be to use a dry lube as grease tends to attract the dirt and debris which will end up causing more wear of these parts. On previous sets I've owned, i used a graphite spray lube that dries after its applied. It worked pretty good and didn't collect dirt etc, but had to be applied quite often and makes a mess if you miss the part and hit the table. Lol On the x duty mips I'm using now i opted to not use anything at all and just run em dry. After running them this way for 30+ runs, to my surprise they show no signs of wear and no slop at all.

    What gearing combination are you going to start with? That 2400 is gonna need some seriously tall gearing to get anywhere near 70mph, and will need an extremely capable lipo to match. Are you gonna stay with the 48p gears?

    Man your truck is looking tight, and whadda ya mean you're not gonna bash it? How are ya gonna test the integrity of all them fancy parts? Lol What are your plans for this truck? Speed runs only?


    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...the-HR-P2de-XL...
    Thanks Baldy. Now let me try to answer all your questions. MIPS and grease? I did purchase some graphite powder, but haven't used it yet. On all my other MIPS have have used moly grease, but not a lot. I realize I could be wearing them a bit by using grease and capturing dirt, dust and road grime. Haven't noticed any damage on my other MIPS, but I might not be able to see any damage. I will keep your suggestion in mind. I plan on starting with 48 pitch. I am actually going to start with stock spur and pinion and go from there. As far as what is dirty going to do with this p2de? I don't know. The other day I was jumping my other p2de in the street. I have alloy HR shocktowers on it Like you do. I love HR allo parts. Anyway after trying to complete a backflip off the ramp on the street, I landed it on the lid mostly on the left rear side. The rear left side of shocktower bent. It bummed me out. Haven't tried to straighten it yet. What I'm getting at is it might take some time before I jump the new truck. Definitally not in the street. Got a question for you? You explained the HR servo savor earlier in this thread. The (3) plastic adapters that came with it. Once I pick the correct one then do I locktite it to servo spline or to servo savor. Please explain that part again for me. Thanks

  37. #77
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirty don View Post
    Thanks Baldy. Now let me try to answer all your questions. MIPS and grease? I did purchase some graphite powder, but haven't used it yet. On all my other MIPS have have used moly grease, but not a lot. I realize I could be wearing them a bit by using grease and capturing dirt, dust and road grime. Haven't noticed any damage on my other MIPS, but I might not be able to see any damage. I will keep your suggestion in mind. I plan on starting with 48 pitch. I am actually going to start with stock spur and pinion and go from there. As far as what is dirty going to do with this p2de? I don't know. The other day I was jumping my other p2de in the street. I have alloy HR shocktowers on it Like you do. I love HR allo parts. Anyway after trying to complete a backflip off the ramp on the street, I landed it on the lid mostly on the left rear side. The rear left side of shocktower bent. It bummed me out. Haven't tried to straighten it yet. What I'm getting at is it might take some time before I jump the new truck. Definitally not in the street. Got a question for you? You explained the HR servo savor earlier in this thread. The (3) plastic adapters that came with it. Once I pick the correct one then do I locktite it to servo spline or to servo savor. Please explain that part again for me. Thanks
    For the HR servo saver, you'll want to thread lock the adapter to the servo spline. I suppose you could do both, but then you would have no easy way to get the saver off if you needed to, its only necessary to do the adapter to servo spline as I've never heard of the other part stripping.

    On your hot racing rear tower, what were you using for body mounts? Hopefully not the aluminum body mount it came with, cuz that'll be the reason for the bent tower... No give. At first I used the aluminum body mount it came with and a couple hard lid landings caused the screws that hold the base of the shock tower on ended up snapping. I then switched back to the good ol monster jam adjustable mounts and haven't had any issues since.

    As for your gearing, if by stock gearing you mean 16-19 T opinion, your gonna be way under geared. The truck will have excessive amounts of torque, but a very weak top speed. You'll be on the lid constantly. Lol 33/76 on 3s gets my truck up to 55mph and I could run a complete 5400mah 3s lipo with an end temp of 118F on the motor. I just got my new gearing in and am now gonna try 41/72 & 43/72 and see what that does.

    With all the quality parts you have chosen to put on your truck, there should be no reason why you shouldn't be able to bash the truck with minimal worries of breakage. The plastic parts will be the ones to break but that's what they are there for and they are cheap to replace. The proper setup of your suspension will go a long way in preventing breakage, so its always best to do light bashing at first and slowly increase the intensity as you get the suspension set up to efficiently absorb all the blows.

    I had the same feelings when I first put all my new alloy hot racing parts on my HR P2de xl, I really didn't wanna scratch up all the new parts. I didn't have much fun driving it while constantly worried about carnage, so I just forced myself to not be so concerned and started bashing it extremely hard again. Even after a full year of kicking the cap outta my truck, it still cleans up real nice and shiny and still looks good. The alloy parts don't show age and abuse like plastic parts do, the alloys stay looking good for a long time. Just make sure that every part that can potentially hit the ground is a plastic part and the truck will always look good. Even my swami doesn't look too bad, especially now that I've vote the losing 8right shocks to keep it from slapping the ground on landings.

    You should see if you can find the camper and steering links in green aluminum, that would totally set off your truck! Axial and strc both make quite a few different lengths in green aluminum tube links. It will be more work finding the correct sizes but it would be well worth it. I'm sure diggerpede has a few leads for green alloy links!

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  38. #78
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    Hey Baldy, I did try out those alloy post when I first installed my hr shocktower. They bend easily. Removed them and put stock traxxas post on. I was running my 1972 Chevy body when I bent shocktower. I do have a Parma gravedigger body that I painted. If I were to use that with some taller post, then there would be a lot of distance from shocktower and the ground or whatever. Anyway, I know there will be plenty of trials and errors with spur/pinion combinations. I'm not in any hurry for max speed. I do like your idea of green links. That's something I might look into if I can stay patient. Thanks for your great experienced inputs. Keep em comming please!

  39. #79
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    Front & Rear Losi 8ight shocks installed. I removed the alloy/screw REM shock mount that came with shock towers due to screws bend easy. I ordered (4) losi shock mounts from the bay the other day. These mounts are stout. I had to drill out the hole bigger on the shock tower to fit them. Well worth it though. Here are pics of shocks and mounting hardware. installed the swami bar.

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  40. #80
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Looking good!

    That's too bad about the HR rear shock tower. It must have been just the right (or wrong) impact to get it to bend. I've had some crazy hits on mine and have had good luck so far.

    I see you chose the laid back style swami bar, is that the full brace edition? I have the full brace swami with the laid back bend, but I've bent it so many times that it now looks like a full bend style. Lol

    I like those shock mounts. I've looked at them before, but didn't know they used such large hardware. Gonna have to get me some, thanks for the info. How's the link clearance with those standoffs?



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