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  1. #1
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    Scandalous CC Cap Pack Photos

    Twin rudder with two water lines.




    Top view.




    Rear view.




    Front view.




    Drawing one. (these look better in real life for some reason)




    Drawing two.




    Drawing three.




    Cooling fans.
    When I bring my boat out of the water there is no longer any water flow going though my boats components. If need be (to keep my boats components from heat soaking) I use these fans to return everything to an ambient temperature. With this set up; it takes about 45 seconds to return everything back to ambient.




    At my world renown ReglarDude RC Boat Testing and Research Center (outside on my back patio); this is how I test or flush out my boats cooling system. I use plumbing puddy around the testers rudder hole to seal everything from leaks.




    This is how I transport my boat. (I got the idea from you guyz)



    High Tech RC Boat Retrieval System.





    Depending on the water depth, outside temp, and if I'm by myself; I use the wadders or life vest. I'm a very good swimmer, but it doesn't hurt to take precautions.

    I just wanted to show you guyz the bodies and bumpers I made for my E-Max. I made body adapters that allow me to use both E-Max and Slasher bodies. I like the Slasher Ford Raptor bodies, and the 1936 ford E-max bodies.




    I made this body after my truck. (front bumper)




    Rear Bumber




    ...and that's me...your friendly neighborhood ReglarDude. (not bad for a old guy hah?)




    In closing, the only thing I know that I didn't include in this post is a list of tools that I used. I have a nice tool set up at my house, garage, and shed. One of my set ups is for sheet metal work. For example: a sheet metal break, sheet metal sheer, band saw, belt sander, and more. I used these (and other tools) to make my Spartan CC Cap Pack/ESC water cooled heat sinks. I doubt if most of you have these tools, so it would of been useless for me to give you a tool list. But that doesn't mean you can't make this cooling mod. It just means you'll have to use different tools. If you can't think of a way to make a particular part for what you're trying to do, ask me and I'll give you some low cost ideas.

    With that all said, I hope all you guyz like my post, and that it helps you have more fun with your RC Stuff...and thanks for helping me out in the past.

    P.S. I didn't give you any measurements; because depending on what rubber tube, ESC port, motor cooling jacket port, and rudder port sizes you use will determine how your water cooled heat sink measurements will need to work out. To determine what measurements I needed (I'm all stock); I used drill bits to see what size opening my ESC ports were (I think 1/8"). From there, I got brass square stock that the 1/8" (I think 1/8") tube would fit snuggly into. The rest of the water cooled sheet metal work is dependent on on the length and width of the CC Cap Pack and ESC used. I custom made everything, so everything would be neat and fit the way I personally wanted it too. Your taste and set up (may/may not) be different than mine, and therefor your measurements (may/may not) be different than mine. This is also true with the CC Cap Pack mounting plate as well.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 10-13-2012 at 12:53 PM. Reason: post merge

  2. #2
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    Great Post ReglarDude.

    hog

  3. #3
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    Awesome post! I have a couple of questions?
    1. For the cap pack, you mean you put silicon underneath the pcb board?
    2. What gauge is the metal or stainless sheet you're using?
    3. So I see on this mode needs soldering, what tools needed for soldering?
    4. Did you solder also the round tube to the square tube or just put a silicon?
    5. I like your heat soaking fan, is it sucking or blowing air?
    6. I'm an avid fan of the raptor body, I was thinking of putting it on my ERBE
    7. What is the exact name of the silicon you use from NAPA?

    Sorry for giving you a lot of questions, I know you are the only one who can answer my query, thanks in advance.
    Sharing is the best thing to do on EARTH legally.

  4. #4
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    Question: 1. Yep. What you do is: put a glob of silicon in the middle of the bottom, and smear it around to an even coating. Be sure to coat your finget with Windex, so the silicon doesn't stick to your finger. Windex works a lot better than just wetting your finger.

    2. I use 30 thousanths carbon fiber, but you could use anything that doesn't bend easy at that size.

    3. Soldering and soldering tools are very subjective, that's why I didn't get into it. I have Pin Irons for surface mount, 25 watters for most non ground plane components, 100, 200, 400, 600, 900 watters for bigger jobs, and a torch for big, big, jobs...like large wave guides and such. Depending on how quick you are, and what your soldering is what you need. For example: A lot of heat used quickly heats the point of interest quickly, and is easier to use. Left on the point of interest to long, heats up everything...weather you wanted to heat it or not. Low heat takes more time to heat the point of interest, but it's easier to controll the heat spread, and you don't have to heat sink as much. Not enough heat won't get the job done, and might cause damage due to prolonged heating. The only thing I would stay away from is a soldering gun. They are junk when it comes to small work. For my heat sinks, I used my 400 and 900 waters. But again, depending on your technique will determine what will be best for you to do the job.

    4. I soldered everything on both heat sinks. I wanted to capture as heat as I could. If I would of siliconed, I would of isolated that part of the heat sink.

    5. The fan in the front blows, and the one in the back sucks. I wanted to move as much air by the components as possable. I also just use Nim batteries to power it, and the fans are 3" computer fans.

    6. I used Slash mounts and made portable adaptors that clip into my E-Max's body mounts. I can switch back/fourth in a few seconds.

    7. The name of the silicon is Permatex. I used the clear, and I only used it to coat the bottom of the CC Cap Pack circuit board, mount the CC Cap Pack water cooled heat sink to the CC Cap Pack, and to mount the ESC water cooled heat sink to the ESC....I better get a really good Christmas present from you this year with all these secrets I'm handing out. (lol)
    Last edited by ReglarDude; 10-13-2012 at 10:38 AM.

  5. #5
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    I just merged 17 posts into one post (see post #1). After doing this, I would like to say two things:

    1) You can post more than one picture in a post. In fact, you can post up to ten images in a single post.
    2) There is an edit button--please use it. You have up to one hour to edit your posts and/or add additional information to them.

    I'm not trying to be a party pooper, nor am I singling you out. I've just been noticing that a lot of users lately have been posting multiple posts in a row when they do not have to.

    Happy boating,


    -cooleo
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  6. #6
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    I didn't know that Mr. CooleoCool, and I don't think you're being a Party Pooper...Party Challenged, maybe (lol, I'm just kidding).

    Anyway, the reason why I did that was; I spent 5hours drawing diagrams, 1hour taking pictures, and another hour posting everything. So, I didn't want to take a chance with the site getting technically goofy on me. It's happened before, and that's why my user-name is ReglarDude instead of ReglarGuy. I've had other problems too. However, nothing I have posted before was as time consuming as this, so I didn't mind. I would of been really (self censored) if the site messed me up with this post.

    I also, counted the pictures in my post to be 15, so the 10 picture limit thing wouldn't of helped me here. I will however, keep in mind the 10 picture limit in the future; and if I ever have (I doubt if I ever will) more than 10 pictures again, I will get with you as to the best way to post them. Take care, and thanks for not throwing out my post. I was just trying to help my fellow RC-ers have more fun with their Spartans, and trying to give back to a site that has helped me so much with mine.

    P.S Thanks Hog for the compliment. Commimg from you means a lot.
    Last edited by ReglarDude; 10-14-2012 at 05:19 AM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    I just merged 17 posts into one post (see post #1). After doing this, I would like to say two things:

    1) You can post more than one picture in a post. In fact, you can post up to ten images in a single post.
    2) There is an edit button--please use it. You have up to one hour to edit your posts and/or add additional information to them.

    I'm not trying to be a party pooper, nor am I singling you out. I've just been noticing that a lot of users lately have been posting multiple posts in a row when they do not have to.

    Happy boating,


    -cooleo
    Why do you only allow an hour for an edit? Wouldn't it be better to allow the OP to add updates on a project to the first post?

    Btw awesome job regulardude

  8. #8
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    All and all ReglarDude, that is one fine post on your build. Thanks for taking the time to share in detail your build with us.

    And when you get too old to ride the bike as I did, you can still do this.....




    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-vCoz9yqaU
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarDude View Post
    Question: 1. Yep. What you do is: put a glob of silicon in the middle of the bottom, and smear it around to an even coating. Be sure to coat your finget with Windex, so the silicon doesn't stick to your finger. Windex works a lot better than just wetting your finger.

    2. I use 30 thousanths carbon fiber, but you could use anything that doesn't bend easy at that size.

    3. Soldering and soldering tools are very subjective, that's why I didn't get into it. I have Pin Irons for surface mount, 25 watters for most non ground plane components, 100, 200, 400, 600, 900 watters for bigger jobs, and a torch for big, big, jobs...like large wave guides and such. Depending on how quick you are, and what your soldering is what you need. For example: A lot of heat used quickly heats the point of interest quickly, and is easier to use. Left on the point of interest to long, heats up everything...weather you wanted to heat it or not. Low heat takes more time to heat the point of interest, but it's easier to controll the heat spread, and you don't have to heat sink as much. Not enough heat won't get the job done, and might cause damage due to prolonged heating. The only thing I would stay away from is a soldering gun. They are junk when it comes to small work. For my heat sinks, I used my 400 and 900 waters. But again, depending on your technique will determine what will be best for you to do the job.

    4. I soldered everything on both heat sinks. I wanted to capture as heat as I could. If I would of siliconed, I would of isolated that part of the heat sink.

    5. The fan in the front blows, and the one in the back sucks. I wanted to move as much air by the components as possable. I also just use Nim batteries to power it, and the fans are 3" computer fans.

    6. I used Slash mounts and made portable adaptors that clip into my E-Max's body mounts. I can switch back/fourth in a few seconds.

    7. The name of the silicon is Permatex. I used the clear, and I only used it to coat the bottom of the CC Cap Pack circuit board, mount the CC Cap Pack water cooled heat sink to the CC Cap Pack, and to mount the ESC water cooled heat sink to the ESC....I better get a really good Christmas present from you this year with all these secrets I'm handing out. (lol)
    LOL! I'll send you a Christmas card! A big thanks to your time, I didn't expect a brief answers like you did in this forum. You have an amazing talent and experience as well. Anyway as I continue this mode, I already have the brass tubes & buy some tools that I could use in the future, flame torch, thin flux & lead free metal lead. I found a brass metal sheet for the base that needs cutting, at least this will not corrode in the future for longevity, you didn't mention in your post that you need a bender machine as well, I know it's too much for the list of tools, everyone had their own way of things to use. Happy Boating! Good Luck to your next Mods.
    Sharing is the best thing to do on EARTH legally.

  10. #10
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    That looks like a lot of fun, Orca. I watched your little video...very cool. I do go 4wheeling with my Raptor on some off-road tracks, but they're nothing like your video...those dunes are really something else. I don't know what I'll do when I can't ride my 2stroke YZ or my Duc1098 anymore.

    Edge, don't be afraid to experiment and practice a little bit with some smaller soldering projects before you start your brass heat sinks. I would get some scrap copper water pipe, and work out you technique with that first. Also if I used a torch, I would use one of those little wee ones made just for smaller work. I think you can still get them at radio Shack.

    I took out my boat yesterday. It's the second time I've run it with it being mod-ed up...and I got to say, that thing runs like a physically abused ape. I love that little boat! Anyway, it was fun making my mod, writing this post, and my pleasure helping in anyway I could.

  11. #11
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    Really? Couldn't you have gotten the same from a Seaking, run half the lines, and never worry if you will melt the caps or ESC? Needless to say, your setup is sick. I like it complexity, yet it's simple and functional.

  12. #12
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    In my opinion,no. Mainly because, there isn't any air flow. Without any airflow, the non-water cooled heat sinks would eventually hit cap temperatures, and would stay there. The only benefit for having non-water cooled heat sinks (or air cooled heat sinks) without any air flow applied is; it would take longer for the system to reach top cap temperatures. An aircooled heat sink application in this case, would only work if one was willing to restrict his boat operating time (due to no air flow) to the heat up time limitations of the aircooled heat sinks. And also, the aircooled heat sink, heat-up time (in this case) would be dependent on the physical size, and thickness of the metal used in the constuction of the air cooled heat sink (with out any airflow). In conclusion with my set up, I only added 3 inches of water line compared to the stock water cooling system, I can run my boat as long (and as fast) as I want, and all my temperatures stay at about 110 degrees.

  13. #13
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    I still have yet to exceed 103/104 degrees F on my Seaking and my Leopard 4082 - in fact both are usually within one degree of each other and this is running hard in the atlantic ocean on 6s. Batts are always warm, and also never exceed 105F To me the temps tell me i have ideal setup, something you have now, but i am wondering, or rather i am cautious as to why my motor and ESC temps are so closely matched together......... In any case, I love how you system looks and after another look today i take back what i said about the extra hosing. I run the largest diameter hosing from FunRCboat.com and it doesn't look like you run any more tubing than i do. Where did you get the heatsinks from? I think i am going to put something similar together - without the fans, i can install a small water pump that is engaged by my 3 channel transmitter to turn the pump on or off and it will be supplied by a single lithium 9v.

    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarDude View Post
    In my opinion,no. Mainly because, there isn't any air flow. Without any airflow, the non-water cooled heat sinks would eventually hit cap temperatures, and would stay there. The only benefit for having non-water cooled heat sinks (or air cooled heat sinks) without any air flow applied is; it would take longer for the system to reach top cap temperatures. An aircooled heat sink application in this case, would only work if one was willing to restrict his boat operating time (due to no air flow) to the heat up time limitations of the aircooled heat sinks. And also, the aircooled heat sink, heat-up time (in this case) would be dependent on the physical size, and thickness of the metal used in the constuction of the air cooled heat sink (with out any airflow). In conclusion with my set up, I only added 3 inches of water line compared to the stock water cooling system, I can run my boat as long (and as fast) as I want, and all my temperatures stay at about 110 degrees.
    Last edited by SHIFTT IX MR; 10-24-2012 at 10:04 AM. Reason: typo

  14. #14
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    Well said ReglarDude... and thanks again for sharing your great modification!!!
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  15. #15
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    One suggestion: I see a benefit in running separate cooling lines for the heat sinks, ESC, and motor. by the time the water reaches the ESC and motor, the water has already been heated, so cooling is limited. Having separate lines for the Cap heat sinks, Esc, and Motor would lower your temps even further - giving you an even greater margin of safety. Seeing you don't run double trim tabs, you could put a two line water pick up in one of the holes designed for a second set of tabs. This would allow you to cool the caps, motor, and ESC separately.

  16. #16
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    It was my pleasure Orca.

    Shift, I made my cap Heat-Sinks. Also, I should be a little bit more accurate with my boats operating temperatures. In actuality, my temps are running consistently 30 degrees above the water temperature. So, when I gave you an average op temp of 110 degrees; the water temp at the time was 81 degrees. Now, with the water temps being 65 degrees, by boat is running in the low 90's.

    The biggest reason why I went with making my heat sinks was; I wanted to run my Ready to Run boat with the original Traxxas stock Castle System that it came with, and have it reliable. I didn't want to buy a 400 dollar boat, and then put 300ish dollars of new electronics in it. In my humble opinion, I think (for me, anyway) I would be better off building my own boat. Anyway, that's why I did what I did...I'm poor...or cheep...or both. (lol) My heat sinks cost me less than 10 bucks, and a couple of hours to make each one.

    I thought (long and hard) of several different ways to run my cooling lines. I won't go into each one, but I did think of doing it as you suggested. In the end, I thought the way I did it offered the best temperature. I didn't want my temps to cool either. In my experience I've found you need a bit of warming temperature to allow component tolerances to come into spec. With my set up (if need be due to cold water temperatures) I can adjust the cooling to my caps, ESC, and motor by changing my hose configuration.

    P.S. Thank you for the nice compliments you guyz. As a ReglarDude, I appreciate them.
    Last edited by ReglarDude; 10-24-2012 at 02:35 PM.

  17. #17
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    Reglar: I understand everything except how you made the heat sinks. By your drawings I don't see how you actually constructed the heat sink hardware, not saying you didn't, i believe you, I just want to try doing something similar. Can you elaborate a bit more on how you constructed them - like to me it appears they are just tubing wrapped in CF, but they also look good enough to fool me into thinking they are store bought (there quality -appearance wise- is that good). Would you be interested in making additional heat sinks for a profit? Do we know the minimum operating temps required by the stock electronics, because I don't, and though I do believe your more than fine running at 90 degree or below, at what point is cooling become too much cooling? When I took my temps of 103/104, surface temps were between 85-88 degrees depending really on cloud cover, and location - the more inland the warmer, the more offshore, the cooler - this was in June, in Key West FL. I'm interested in knowing how low temps can go before the components' tolerances become out of spec, because i was also considering a closed cooling system using actual anti-freeze, problem i have with that is the heat exchanger.....i have no idea what i could use. i have everything else figured but that. Wish they made miniature radiators that were functional - but even that poses another problem: where to get the air from lol.
    Last edited by SHIFTT IX MR; 10-24-2012 at 03:13 PM.

  18. #18
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    I don't know what they teach now, but back when I was in school, the general rule was anything electrical/electronic operated at optimum efficiency between the temperatures of 67F and 72F degrees. I know there can be exceptions, but that was the general rule.

    I don't know what CF stands for, but for me I used 5/32 round brass tubing, 3/16 brass square tubing, and .016 brass square stock for the heat sinks; and .020 aluminum square stock covered with a thin layer of carbon fiber for the CC Cap mounting plate.

    I think your radiator idea can be made, but it would take a lot of work. Plus, I think it would be better for use in our land based RC trucks that are only air cooled. With boats, why not take advantage of operating in a water environment. As I see, the two biggest time consumers would be: 1). Boat - Making a water tight wind tunnel threw the hull of a boat. Truck - making a wind tunnel. The wind tunnel would be needed for the airflow to be concentrated for use by the radiator. 2). Would be the radiator itself. I'm sure it could be done, though.

    If you live by, or ever want to visit Ocean City, Maryland; you let me know, and we'll get together and build you a set. Untill then, I'm thinking of making another set when the cold weather sets in. If I do that, I'll take pictures of the step-by-step process. I wrote another post on this subject. I think it was called CC Cap Mod. It has more written information in it. Take a peek, it might help you along with the pictures in this post. When I wrote it, the guyz asked if I would post pictures, so I did.

    P.S. If you live in my area, and we make you a set...if you buy lunch, we'll call it even.
    Last edited by ReglarDude; 10-24-2012 at 04:41 PM.

  19. #19
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    Reglardude as I follow your mods. I stop and think a few times, are you sure those round brass tube will fit the cap pack snugly? I cut already the tube in 4pcs. but the problem was there is no clearance between the caps, so when you put them altogether it doesn't fit?!
    Sharing is the best thing to do on EARTH legally.

  20. #20
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    Reglardude what body mount post did you use on the slash body is it the summit post? I ask you here because no one answering me on the e maxx forum. Thanks

    Specific questions about another vehicle for another member can be made via PM. They do not belong in another vehicle's subforum.
    -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-24-2012 at 09:49 PM.
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  21. #21
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    Tisk, tisk, tisk...what am I going to do with you Edge. (lol) What you have to do is; go to RadioShack and get two 100mF caps that are the same size as your ESC's. Then put a small glob of silicon between them, and be sure to set them on a table (tops down), so when the silicon dries the tops of the caps are level with each other. This will now be your Jig. Now, with two cut pieces of round brass tube cut to the length you want; cut a slice along the side of each tube. As you look down at the tube with the open end up, the cut you made will make the tube look like a "C". Finish, buy cutting open the slice you made to make the gap about an 1/8 of an inch. Now, put the two brass tube pieces on your RadioShack caps, and solder everything onto the bottom of your heat sink...wallah...you're done.

    I made clip on adapters that the bottom of the adapters fit my E-max, and the top of the adaptors fit my Slash Body holes. To do that, part of my adaptor is made out of Slash body mount parts. If you want, I can take a few picture for you, and post them on the E-max sub-forum.
    Last edited by ReglarDude; 10-25-2012 at 03:38 AM.

  22. #22
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    Alright way to go! Thanks again, I'll post today on the emaxx forum find it if you have time, I want to see that mount post.
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  23. #23
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    Edge, take a look under the Brushless E-max, and look for your title. Also, I will not be able to reply for a few days, but will eventually if needed.

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