ultimate test 1110 1/y vs 6000kv vs 1112 1/y

**50togo** · 10-15-2012 09:20 PM

The time code was off on the recorder wasn't filmed in 2008!

**Daddykins** · 10-15-2012 09:23 PM

Haha, didn't think the merv came out in 08'
what are you planning to do with the spare neu motor...merv #3???

**50togo** · 10-15-2012 09:43 PM

First I have to see how the lower kv motor runs on 2 cell in the dirt. Really only got it for the 4 cell capability to try to break my 65 mph barrier! I would put it in my other merv but that 5200 motor runs so good!

**Daddykins** · 10-15-2012 09:58 PM

You think a 3cell will be better with the 1112
Unless its geared higher than what you previously had it with the 1110
If the 5200kv motor runs good then I'd just leave it like that

I finally got mine all done on the weekend, funny thing is so cold out that the motor is not even warm
10c / 50 F lately
Didn't even bother with a temp gun

**Daddykins** · 10-15-2012 10:00 PM

Double post

**50togo** · 10-15-2012 10:19 PM

i will find out what the kv is under load tomorrow
going by 3529kv i would need 33/45 compared to 26/45 in the 1110

yep one good thing about the cooler weather running cooler and gearing taller!

**50togo** · 10-16-2012 01:45 PM

Did a few speed runs
With 33/45 and small foams on 3s ran 52.8 testing out the power .I babied the throttle too much wasn't at full throttle too long before I ran out of room which setup disaster for the 4s run!
I was a little harder on the throttle front end kept popping up then at around 65 flipped over, cartwheeled body flew off watts up meter was hanging and gps went 20 ft in the air and was wasted!

Should of weighed down the front end but the 3 cell run was so smooth. Live and learn!

**devildog88** · 10-16-2012 04:57 PM

Daaaaaang, sounds like fun though! If my stock motor ever goes out I know what I'm going with for sure!

**ptsdisntfun** · 10-16-2012 06:40 PM

sorry to here that 50, i hit the drain out front a did a 20 foot cartwheel and broke a rod end. i was just goofing off. reading all these post how much more damage can be done when goin much faster

**50togo** · 10-16-2012 10:48 PM

That would hurt!
The merv came out with no damage somehow leaving behind the body. Just when I wanted to see how fast 4 cell with the 1112 would go. Now I need a new gps!
That's one problem using punch control. When it comes off the punch it hits hard!

**Supernova** · 10-16-2012 11:18 PM

Hi 50, with same speed, how is the feeling if compared to 1110?

**Supernova** · 10-16-2012 11:19 PM

sorry missing 1 word: torque feeling -- much stronger?

**50togo** · 10-16-2012 11:34 PM

Plenty of pulling power!
On 3 cell with 33/45 gearing and the small foam tires it wasn't even working the motor hard! 441.8 watts 38.62 amps and the voltage only dropped to 11.44
The 1110 on a 65mph run pulled 821.6 watts 74.36 amps and dropped the voltage to 11.05

**ptsdisntfun** · 10-17-2012 01:44 AM

your on another level,it might seem your fighting aerodynamics at those speeds

**50togo** · 10-17-2012 01:50 AM

I have always said easy to hot 50.takes more.power to break 60 and much.more.power.to break past 65

**ptsdisntfun** · 10-17-2012 02:26 AM

have u tried aero tweaks like tbone with bumpers, so its flat and smooth and bottom. maybe a smooth body

**50togo** · 10-17-2012 11:27 AM

i have the t bone and on speed runs i use my slipstream body
the 1112 has crazy power on 4s just wasn't use to it and i was trying to get a good mph reading didn't want to shut off!
i have a 5/8 bolt about 3" long that i usually tie to the front

**ptsdisntfun** · 10-17-2012 06:01 PM

i was just thinking some aero tweaks might give it a little help. instead pushing the air, slices through it. it sounds like the front end might make some high pressure under it, from what im seen reading posts on here it seem to flip easy and those higher speeds. if you could find someway to diffuse that high pressure you could get rid of that lift

that way the front bumber is shaped, would cause lift.

**50togo** · 10-17-2012 08:08 PM

Anything might help! I think mine was more of not being use to the power and hitting it too hard

**Assassin** · 10-17-2012 08:30 PM

TRX Wheelie bar on "No wheelie setting" coupled by the wheelie bar wheels from a Revo or Jato with the bearings and tires.

Its just a suggestion, the TRX wheelie bar can be lowered to prevent wheelies and with the larger Jato wheelie bar wheels with rubber tires should track fine, prevent front lift and that should help with flips at speed.

**50togo** · 10-17-2012 08:43 PM

Believe me I have tried that! Broke the tires loose at over 50 car got sideways a bit and almost crashed! Foams are no better. Really puts out more power than you think

**Assassin** · 10-17-2012 08:53 PM

Have you run modified tires instead of foams? Foams dont balloon, but they have crap grip on the streets compared to a good set of rubber. If the tires are belted and strapped to prevent ballooning at speed (as done with an 80mph Savage Flux) they should have superior grip, no ballooning and not kick out at speed. From your description, it seems the foams loosing grip was the problem.

**50togo** · 10-17-2012 09:15 PM

I forgot to mention same thing happened wiith my speed hawgs that are taped. I know they are not the best compound either

Not really.worried about it to me it's about going faster in a car that's designed for only 50. I saw a build that started as a normal build next thing it had an extended chassis and had almost no stock parts. I don't care for that and speed runs are a very small part of my driving. Mainly off road jumps and hill climbs!

**ptsdisntfun** · 10-17-2012 09:41 PM

sounds like its going to be a little play and enginering. if you look at the xo1, flat undertray with reat difuser. super smooth body, and its right on the ground. the merv sits up alot higher, wheels are expose and arms. lots of drag.
if you could get some more downforce it would be good to go.

and by the your builds are awesome

**arice1104** · 10-17-2012 10:59 PM

random question guys, where can i get the full skid plate for MERV??? coz im finding the front, center and back one in separate pieces??? link or websites thanks...

**arice1104** · 10-17-2012 11:12 PM

how much are those motor..?

**50togo** · 10-17-2012 11:12 PM

http://tboneracing.corecommerce.com/116-E-Revo-c183/
1110 around 150 1112 169.00

**50togo** · 10-18-2012 01:34 AM

So what do you think of Boca ceramic lightnings yellow seal maybe my next upgrade. Only 165.00!

**50togo** · 10-18-2012 04:31 AM

For.the.replacement for my
Broken Garmin forerunner eagle tree v4 datalogger and gps module and brushless rpm module .so I can.do some serious testing

**50togo** · 10-18-2012 09:46 PM

Ordered it all from tower even got 20.00 off and only 3.00 for priority mail!

**ptsdisntfun** · 10-18-2012 10:07 PM

i get alot form there, they always got some coupon codes going on

**Assassin** · 10-18-2012 10:24 PM

Sweet deal

**50togo** · 10-18-2012 10:37 PM

Couldn't believe it right when I got a new motor and no gps!I never cared for the watts up meter the v4 will be nice!
Even picked up the power panel led display!

**50togo** · 10-19-2012 05:31 PM

Originally Posted by Daddykins

I seen one around before
The rear shock mount had to be ground(dremal) down and if I remember it sits right on it

How come you didn't use CC bullets?

I finished soldering up bullets and plug into MMP n I hate the fact there's a gap
So I just picked some CC one n re-soldered it again.
Someone has to be different

Picked up some 4mm CC bullet connectors and shortened the wires

I put some aluminum shock brackets too don't know how much the grinding weakened the stock plastic

**airmaxx23** · 10-19-2012 06:21 PM

Originally Posted by 50togo

Picked up some 4mm CC bullet connectors and shortened the wires. I put some aluminum shock brackets too don't know how much the grinding weakened the stock plastic

I wouldn't worry about the mount too much, just make sure the screw is good and tight for now.

**airmaxx23** · 10-19-2012 07:31 PM

Use a slice of single sided foam tape and stick it between the motor and the mount, that way the mount won't ding up your motor when everything flexes.

**50togo** · 10-19-2012 07:39 PM

Good idea but there is barely enough room Scotch tape!

**TheMajekalBum** · 10-19-2012 08:24 PM

Make a bump block, plastic for a spacer and some silicone(i use window sealant) to stick it to the chassis and to make a soft pad for the motor to ride on. Easily removable if it doesn't work for you. I still use a bump block on my chassis to this day to keep the shock screws from chewing on my bb motor. Heres an old picture of the first one I did, was worried about the motor plate flexing and throwing gear mesh off back then(not with that motor

).

**airmaxx23** · 10-19-2012 08:44 PM

Hot glue would work as well.

**50togo** · 10-19-2012 08:51 PM

Originally Posted by TheMajekalBum

Make a bump block, plastic for a spacer and some silicone(i use window sealant) to stick it to the chassis and to make a soft pad for the motor to ride on. Easily removable if it doesn't work for you. I still use a bump block on my chassis to this day to keep the shock screws from chewing on my bb motor. Heres an old picture of the first one I did, was worried about the motor plate flexing and throwing gear mesh off back then(not with that motor

).

good idea. But now I would have to pull it back apart! Only problem with a t bone

Thread: ultimate test 1110 1/y vs 6000kv vs 1112 1/y

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