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  1. #1
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    Installing proline electronics cover, could use help

    (edit) Thread title should read " Installing JConcepts electronics cover, could use help

    I am installing JConcepts chassis/electronics cover, will have one fan with filter drawing cool air through and one fan blowing warm air out. I have automatic temp control, and suggestions as to what I should aim for temp wise for climate control underneath cover, I was thinking 80-90 degrees, but my electronics experience doesn't involve rc vehicles, any suggestions at what temps I should aim for for in between chassis and cover?
    Thanks in advance,
    Dave Sandine
    Last edited by Sandine Motorsports; 10-11-2012 at 12:35 PM.
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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    So the cooling system will activate when the sensor reads 80-90f?

    You may want to have the sensor(s) mounted to the motor can and esc heat sink directly. If that is what you wind up doing, I would say 130 or so. If the sensor is just measuring the air temps under the cover, it may not recognize when the motor gets to the smoking point. example, on a 30f day, the temp under the cover may not get to 90. compared to a 95 day, the system will run non stop.

    If your not gonna monitor the components directly, skip the auto temp control, and just run the cooling system full time.
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  3. #3
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    There will be two sensors, one that measure ambient air and another that has remote sensor that will monitor motor temp, my speed control runs pretty cool so not really concerned about that

    (edit) the temp control will be based on motor temp, the ambient air temp is only there if like air inside of cover gets pretty warm it will be addressed to help regulate temps so you dont have a constant 150 degree (or something high) bombarding rest of electronics
    Last edited by Sandine Motorsports; 10-11-2012 at 08:09 PM.
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  4. #4
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    sand line i think you might be over complicating thing and adding weight ,which will in turn make more heat i dont know what setup you run but if it stay cool now with out a cover some vents and a fan might be all you need . it will cut down on battery draw

  5. #5
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    The weight is negligible. For bashing and with the power of the 1415 motor I doubt it will even weigh 1 pound more. Need to keep dust out and there is no doubt it gets dusty without cover. Won't be cutting down on battery draw as will have separate power supply.
    Alls I am trying to do is keep interior clean and temps down. I have read several threads about poeple want to cover electronics, be it by jconcepts cover or the mesh bag or whatever. Dust and dirt in electronics is a major no no, as it decreases life of electronics and can cause corrosion, dirt in speed control fan, dirt/debri on electronic connections which is no good. I can guarentee it will be plenty fast and with tires I run it will still handle quite while compared to other stampedes I have seen. I have been in electronics and automotive industry for almost 16 years. I am not trying to convince anyone to like it or think its a good idea. (please don't take offense if you don't agree) This is just a project I am doing for myself, and for anyone that thinks it will be slower with the negligible weight added or not handle as good with the whole extra pound (if that) Maybe video of when it is done will negate some of those worries, not that it matters as I am not trying to market a new product or offer anything to the market. I am just applying principals I have learned in my experience in electronics and aviation with a simplified ecs system. It just something I find neat and functional. I will be able to run more motor timing and 4s and according to laws of physics it will keep temperatures cooler. I live in nowheresville Illinois so I don't have anyone with a stampede to test against, but it is a well known fact excessive heat is bad for motors and speed controls, and it will keep electronics portion of vehicle clean, as dirt is detrimental to long lasting problem free electronics. Adding 1 pound (might even be less that that) to a six pound vehicle will be neglible, especially with 3s or 4s lipo. If you don't like it or think it is a waste f time, I understand, but keep in mind, I am not trying to market it at all, its just for my stampede, not yours. (sorry if that came off rude, just stating the facts. It will still be plenty fast with 4s with 54 spur and 16t pinion, and it will allow me to run more aggressive timing and keep temps down to help with longevity of my electronics, not to mention keep dust and junk out of speed control fan, reciever, slipper unit and electrical connectors. If you don't think its a good idea I support your right to free speech but once again, its not for you, its for me.

    I am loosely basing what I am doing on the airspace industry and using similair techniques they use to keep heat away from electronics which in turn promotes longevity. If the extra pound (or less) is to much for the 1415 (which its not) I will just install mamba monster but I don't see that happening. Keep in mind I have alot of experience in such matters and I am not suggesting anyone try it. But if you want feel free to continue posting about how its not a good idea.

    Also keep in mind this is not a ultra light road car or SCT, its a Basher/ Off-Road Truck/Street Truck. It is a prototype system I am working on and if it works I will use light weight materials in a next gen setup. Also running without a cover and running vents introduces dust and who knows what else into the electronics portion of the chassis.

    I don't believe its over complicated as its a very simple setup. Trying to talk me out of it is a waste of time, as this is just a hobby where my real effort goes to actual vehicles and I am just trying something different and most likely beneficial.
    Last edited by Sandine Motorsports; 10-12-2012 at 12:09 AM.
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  6. #6
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    Also for those of you that think this is a complete waste of time, I am not capable nor allowed to work so just thought I would try something different and possibly beneficial, if it is a hindrance or doesn't work it will only take a minute or two to scrap it and return stampede to its old dirty glory
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  7. #7
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    Dude if you dont try. you dont know go for it...peace
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  8. #8
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    Hope my post did not sound negative to you. Wasn't intended that way.

    You asked for help. I gave you what advice I thought would help, and answered your question by saying having a sensor on the motor directly would be more reliable. I did not try to talk you out of anything, and was interested in seeing you succeed. Lighten up as 99% of the "helpers" on here are here to do just that.

    Good luck and I hope you achieve your goal.
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  9. #9
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    This is a hobby and if doing the temp sensor thing to control the fans is your thing then by all means go for it. I personally think it is making things a little more complicated than need be but that is only my personal preference. I would only even use the fan if needed and if I did need it the fan would run all the time with no sensor to control it. My experience with fans on off road trucks has been they dont last and need to be replaced more frequently than I like so if I can get away without using one I usually do....lol that being said my 3800 has a blower on it but the fan is now missing a blade and needs to be replaced.
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Just want u to know I like the idea. Using fans to feed a motor fan and expel heat out of in an inclosed space. The exhaust prob should move more air than the intake? Just a guess as intake fans usually do more good blowing directly onto a component as opposed to an exhaust sucking heat off of a component.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    This is a hobby and if doing the temp sensor thing to control the fans is your thing then by all means go for it. I personally think it is making things a little more complicated than need be but that is only my personal preference. I would only even use the fan if needed and if I did need it the fan would run all the time with no sensor to control it. My experience with fans on off road trucks has been they dont last and need to be replaced more frequently than I like so if I can get away without using one I usually do....lol that being said my 3800 has a blower on it but the fan is now missing a blade and needs to be replaced.
    My fans are heavy duty and are aircraft quality meant to work in harsh conditions, and have high quality filters. A fan running all the time would be simpler and possibly a better idea, but being a former electronic technician / field engineer who is no longer able to work I fill my time with over-the-top probably unnecessary projects. Its just something I find fun to do and helps pass the time
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandine Motorsports View Post
    My fans are heavy duty and are aircraft quality meant to work in harsh conditions, and have high quality filters. A fan running all the time would be simpler and possibly a better idea, but being a former electronic technician / field engineer who is no longer able to work I fill my time with over-the-top probably unnecessary projects. Its just something I find fun to do and helps pass the time
    I would click 'like' for this.

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  13. #13
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    I most definitively will, I have a bunch of parts coming so it will be a week or to. My temp and fan controllers and cover will be coming early next week, so I should have pictures of that part early next week. My fan controller might not work as intended, and if not I will have to design a board to control the which will add a week or two, but I will post pics galore

    Thanks for the support
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  14. #14
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    So I am getting ready to piece together, and needed some advice. Do you think it would be better to mount fan to electronics cover and blow cooler air in, or reverse direction and draw hot air out. I am not sure what would be best as the body is going to hinder airflow and could trap heat, and I want body nice looking without seeing a fan blade on the roof of it lol.

    Also just got ambient temp gauge to measure air temperature under cover, and will be using infrared to measure motor temp.

    I will be monitoring ambient and motor temps with and without electronics cover, and with and without 1415 motor fan installed
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Dont know if it works the same for an inner body airflow system, but in an open environment having cool air blow directly onto the components works better than sucking hot air off of the components. I would guess that blowing cool air in and having an exhaust vent out back would be a good place to start. That is if you are only using 1 fan for the undercover airflow project.

    I am gonna guess that using the castle blower will be a big improvement in motor temps over not using it.


    One question I have? If you leave the cover clear, can you get an accurate motor temp reading by using an infrared temp gun through the clear cover?
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  16. #16
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    One question I have? If you leave the cover clear, can you get an accurate motor temp reading by using an infrared temp gun through the clear cover?
    No you cant. I know this from when I used to keep reptiles and that is where I first started using a temp gun. The IR beam "sees" or bounces off the clear cover and reads the surface temp of it not the motor or what is behind the clear cover.
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  17. #17
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    I will be using castle blower plus something a bit more aggressive attached to cover, it will be vented out back. The company I originally ordered fans and temp switches from ripped me off and I never recieved product, so I will just be using one fan on cover and castle fan on motor with ambient temp gauge inside until I gather of data of how stable temp is. When it gets hot in summer I will make a small board with a thermister to power fan on and of when needed, if needed. As od right now my motor is running fairly cool so I will just pull cover off and measure motor temp in the 90-100 degree summer or just get a small digital temp gauge with remote sensor and mount that to motor.
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  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    No you cant. I know this from when I used to keep reptiles and that is where I first started using a temp gun. The IR beam "sees" or bounces off the clear cover and reads the surface temp of it not the motor or what is behind the clear cover.
    Oh well, we can dream...
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  19. #19
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    There is ways to measure motor temp and have visible on cover without IR, I am more concerned about under cover temps as excessive heat is not good for electronics, and like i posted before ir motor temp reading is not necessary with a simple circuit.
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  20. #20
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    Is it ever a good idea to use an overtray on a hot day? Even with a fan and/or vents, I just can't imagine that the airflow under an overtray would be sufficient to keep the electronics cool. Yes, you will likely have less dust to clean off (some will still get in through the overtray fan), but I imagine you're reducing cleanup at the cost of increasing the risk of overheating your motor/ESC.

    I recently bought the JConcepts overtray, but pretty much bought it only for use in the cooler weather of Fall, Winter, and early Spring.... figuring it'd be a great option to keep my Pede from becoming snow-packed. When the weather is under 50 degrees outside, it'd be really hard to overheat the motor/ESC. But running a Pede on a 90+ degree day, wouldn't the overtray turn the chassis into an oven?

    That being said, I AM really interested to see the pictures of what you finally put together, and hear reports of how it works out. As others have said, this is a hobby, and experimenting with what works and doesn't work is half the fun!

  21. #21
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    The reason I think it will work as I have worked on similar systems on airplanes where it gets much hotter then than the car ever will, and we just used a basic ecs system and thermocouplers,

    And if it doesn't work I will post a vid so you'll get to see a good explosion of design gone wrong , as long as posting a vid like than doesn't break any rules, if it does i will just through it up on youtube
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  22. #22
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    Well latest update. Talked to some fellow engineers and thermodynamic guys, and the suggest my setup will work and to do whatever it takes to keep temp under cover underneath 70 degrees Celsius, and suggestion trying it bot blow through or draw through to see what get better results, any thoughts or deas?
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  23. #23
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  24. #24
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    I am sure you made that before me but I am still going to say you stole idea from me if thats ok with you

    My setup will be different from yours a bit, thinner fan, few different components, lighter weight (maybe) Can I ask why are you using a lipo battery to power fan and how many volts is it? Just being curious, not stealing your idea, I am using 4 aa size batteries with like 3.4 VDC a piece instead of 1.6 VDC or so a piece of standard AA as fan works off of 12 volts (at least my fan)
    Also with 4s and better gearing my cooling setup transports me to the year 2057 when vehicle hits 88 mph. I'm going to need a better radio to control a trcuck thats almost 50 years in the future lol. Also my cooling setup makes snow cones (just joshin, I like your setup, pretty clever, do you mind sharing part number of that little circuit, not going to us or bite your stye just curious of specs
    Last edited by Sandine Motorsports; 10-17-2012 at 12:18 PM.
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  25. #25
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    am using a 11.1v 800mah lipo. Reason? 11.1v is as close as i could get to 12v using a cheap/reliable rechargeable battery, and 800mah lasts forever just running a pc fan. i am using a vantec tornado pc fan, has one of the highest RPM's. If there is a thinner fan out there with high rpm, i would gladly make the mod to fit it in.


    bought the lipo tester on ebay, http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...at=0&_from=R40


    have run this in very hot summer weather, stayed nice and cool. Dont have my temp reading for the tqi transmitter yet, but when i do i'll run tests and get actual readings.....am waiting for the gps module and waiting....and waiting.... and waiting....


    am sure i have a thread on here about this mod, but am too lazy to look it up.

  26. #26
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    LOL jeez it took all of about 2 seconds to find the thread....

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ertray-fan-mod
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  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Sandine, I think the cover with flow thru will work at least about 90% as good as no cover on a hot day. If the speed of the airflow is fast enough(faster than normal chassis blow by), I would imagine it may leave motor temps less than no cover. It wont be an oven, as the truck body will be a barrier between the sun and electronics cover, and the fast airflow will really help. Have you thought about how to maximize the flow? There are some features of the stock chassis that may slow the airflow?
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  28. #28
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    Yah, there will be some chassis mods. And it would be cooler with cover but I don't wan't dust on my speed control, reciever, wires,ect Its no good for electronics
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  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    That was my other concern. With so much air moving through, how to keep out dirt and moisture?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sandine Motorsports View Post
    Yah, there will be some chassis mods...
    This is the coolest part of a project... the details.
    Last edited by Dadx2mj; 10-17-2012 at 06:54 PM.
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  30. #30
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    I f anyone has ideas, please post, it will make my life easier. Right now the plan is to remover the little lovers from the svt raptor crew cab hood, Install screen with high flow filter underneath and duct that to top of fan on cover, fan will be running 24 VDC (if it holds up, if not I will just run 12) then run maybe two or so 1/2 or some diameter pipe to expel air and run it through back of truck body or underneath so it looks like exhaust. It will be trick to route, I think trickiest part will be running fents from hood to completely cover fan, or something similar.

    Also thought about drilling abunch of holes in chassis like the "swiss cheese" drag cars back in the day,and just cover holes with thin foam filter and fine mesh metal screen to prevent debri and sust, but I am guessing the labor will out weigh the benifit and probably make truck heavier, lol
    Last edited by Sandine Motorsports; 10-17-2012 at 07:24 PM.
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  31. #31
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    update: electronic covers project started, cover didn't fit with front swap bar. Cut about 1/4 off of front and will plastic weld lexan so it still retains seal. Figured I'd post this in case anyone else ran into this issue, but your all probably smart enought to have fixed it anyway and a way better than me, so if you have any better ideas, please let me know
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  32. #32
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    i like your idea of venting out the back like an exhaust. If i get bored over the winter i may have to mod my design to do that. I just cut holes in the cover to vent out.

  33. #33
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    Why did you put velcro all along the side? JConcepts recomends a small piece at each corner, is the extra velcro due to added weight of cover to keep it stable, or is the small four pieces in corners just not hold it well at all anyways.

    Now I am debating using a 3s battery for fan sinces its rechargeable, or just might just use a pac that holds for aa 1.5 VDC batteries and install 3.2 VDC AA size batteries in there place, guess depends on mounting locations and wieght, i do like the idea of a rechargeable 3s though.
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    i dont use body pins, i use velcro to attach my body. Because of this, i needed full velcro to hold the overtray and the overtray holds the body. If i take off the overtray, then there is enough velcro for just the body.

    the velcro you see in my pics is both on the inside and outside of the overtray

  35. #35
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    What about using fan to blow through the cover, vent out the side of cover and run aluminun 5/16" os so pipes at a angle out ofcover through truck body to look like side exhaust, and remove hood vents on raptor and remove truck bed and replace with thick stainless screen like this to provide fresh air to fan to blow down on electronics



    Think it's Good idea, decent idea, but not practical or useful, or just plain idiotic LOL

    I will probably just do it do be different and I think it could look good, and if not I still have hummer body and can buy another one for $20something bucks
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