Third try at trans slop reduction

[jamann]

So I have tried glue and some styrene
It worked for testing,for a while lol
Then it snowed inside the trans white styrene made into powder
So I have gone to the jb weld see if it holds up.havent tested it yet but tomorrow I will take it for a climb.if it works I will give some more info
Here's what it looks like

It looks like it should hold up


Sent using lipo power

[Edstoys]

If that does not hold up, not sure what could be used that would besides cutting a piece of alum or sstl to fit.
Looks like it should hold tho, at lest no more snow, well not in the tranny at lest

[jamann]

I used some tie wire to make dowels
And embedded it in jb.using the concrete experience for this. Think rebar.....lol


I like noir 522's idea make a mold and make it one piece.more research needed
And on a unrelated note the job I'm working on has 10 or 12 of these wandering around the yard

Peacocks cool looking birds


Sent using lipo power

[Edstoys]

Ya peacocks might be pretty birds but man they make a lot of racket!!!
LOL on the rebars, do think those are the smallest rebars I have ever seen. Can't wait to hear your report now, but willing to bet is stays together for 2 hrs at lest and a lot longer more than likely if you got the JB mixed proportionality right!

[noir 522]

Since your in there do both low speed and high speed gears to give us a full review.

[jamann]

I don't have the need for the high gear to be done
Don't notice the slop.but if it works in low range,should work in high.you never know ,I really like the low range having much less slop saved me a couple of ugly rolls off the edge at least.
Going out with "nostopin" tomorrow
We shall see how it does try and get some video


Sent using lipo power

[bandg]

I tried JB weld quick set and it collapsed. Long cure might work better. I have a local company that specializes in small parts manufacturing. I've left a transmission shift piece and shaft with them to see about the cost of making one with wider dogs for engagement to eliminate slop. I requested that they give an estimate for both nylon and aluminum. I'll post any information when they decide if it would be possible and cost effective for them to make.

[04zrx]

when I did mine I used West Systems epoxy. I work with it all the time, so it is easy for me to use. First thing I did was clean any oily residue off with dawn dish detergent and then washed the gears with denatured alcohol, next I mixed up a batch of thick gooey epoxy (like fluffer nutter) and placed it in between the webs (just like the pic). In 10 min it had hardened and I reassembled. No "rebar" in my gears and it works awesome. The other thing that is important is that the edges are "square 90 degrees so the cog catches and doesn't slip past, and the epoxy needs to be no thicker than the outer edge or "rim" of the gear, this is very important so everything fits back together like it was always there.

The only suggestion I could make is that the gear in the pic looks like it needs to be cleaned better, JB weld won't stick to grease. The little "forms" you made work well for keeping the edges square for the cog to grab. Nice work.

[jamann]

Well it held up good so far


Sent using lipo power

[jamann]

Well it held up good so far.4 hours of hard climbing.no issues yet.felt solid
No engagement issues at all.
I agree I should have cleaned it much better.We shall see how it holds up


Sent using lipo power

[jamann]

Got me thinking...They were pretty dirty...I will buy another set of them.
Really it's not like they are expensive.
I should do a better job Just for piece of mind.i did sorta clean the area....
But brand new ones are easier to clean
Properly.


Sent using lipo power

[Offroad Hawk]

the best and easy way is this:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/gener...mit-trans.html

i did that in my Rock Crusher (but only for first gear), and i have absolutely no slop! this mod takes less than 30 min. includes remove gearbox and re install and works perfectly...

or do you mean something else??

[04zrx]

I'm pretty certin mine won't fail so as for me mine will be fine bit no doubt the other option is certin to work. You do first class work!

[Edstoys]

That might work great for a scaler, but with the weight of the summit and some of us have heavier trucks do to modifications that cutting the tabs down looks like asking for trouble. When I get around to it mine will either get epoxied or JPW

the best and easy way is this:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/gener...mit-trans.html

i did that in my Rock Crusher (but only for first gear), and i have absolutely no slop! this mod takes less than 30 min. includes remove gearbox and re install and works perfectly...

or do you mean something else??

[Offroad Hawk]

@Edstoys

my Summit (Rock Crusher) weight is near by 9kg (19,84 lb)...and no problems with mod...

[jamann]

The reasons I went this way is
1) no cutting or shaving down parts
2) the other way it engages every 180 degrees.So two places this way it's every 90 degrees so 4 places.
Don't know if it makes a difference or not really but when I shift to low range it engages quickly.some of the places I run that can be critical.i hate having to go half way down the mountain to get my truck.both ways work,so whichever way you choose it is a improvement


Sent using lipo power

[Edstoys]

OK I stand corrected; fallowed your link and from that wright up sounded like you had a scalier..... Sorry for the mix up.

@Edstoys

my Summit (Rock Crusher) weight is near by 9kg (19,84 lb)...and no problems with mod...

[noir 522]

Both great ideas. Will try it after Christmas. Lots of time to wrench now.

[noir 522]

still next on my list

[jamann]

Gonna give The poly morph plastic a try,this stuff is really pretty cool just to play around with.
If its not strong enough it could be used to make a mold maybe.


Sent using lipo power

[MagicDragon]

I tried the cutting tabs down mod. Yes it worked but it is meant for lighter scalers. That mod lasted about 4 hours for me. Next mod and the one I still use today is like yours jamann however I added material to the tabs making them larger rather than making the slots smaller. I used a couple short pieces of hard wire and pushed them through the existing holes next to the tabs as end support. Then I drilled (2) 1/32" holes between the tab and where I pushed the wire through the first existing hole and one very shallow in the side of the tab. (for extra adhesion for the JBweld) Next I built a mold to extend the tab and filled with JBweld. After it cured I repeated the process on the other side (the wires extend through the piece to further tie in both sides for strength). My mold stuck severely to the JBweld, lol oh well as I needed to Dremel down the tabs to final dimensions anyways. As you said high gear slop isn't noticed but it just worked to my advantage for strength by doing both. This has held up well since last July. Now my summit only rolls about 1" (more when my CV's and axles are worn). But better than the 3"+ before. A couple things I noticed is that with the slop out of the high gear my slipper slipped much more on brushless. Not sure why... I would have thought that the shock of engagement with slop would have caused more slip. The other thing is now under bl power I actually use drag brake when bashing without flipping as it's a more gradual application now. Anyways, that's how I accomplished this task. I bought new gears to do this mod so I still have the other 2 pieces, I'm going to give your way a try as backup pieces if mine fails.

[noir 522]

And of course inquiring minds are waiting for pictures

[Edstoys]

Used the JB weld stick on both my hi and low gear and so far it has held up. But mine spends most of the time going thru rebuilds than running LOL. Do have one Summit tho I did that to that stays together and no problems with that one.