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  1. #1
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    Custom chassis build

    Ok I have decided to try my hand at building my own custom stretched chassis and I know there are a few of y'all on here that have done this so I'm reaching out to y'all for some advice!

    First off would it be strong enough or advised to use 1.5 or 2.0 mm carbon fiber or should I use 1.5 , 2.0 or 2.5mm stainless steel
    Second how much longer then stock should I make it I will be running a 3.3 at the track and mostly bashing I remember someone saying 1.5" extension is perfect??

    Thanks for the help

  2. #2
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    As far as the material goes I have to recommend .1875 7075 Aluminum. As I used on mine and Shaggy's. Any thinner and it will bend. CF can and will crack. Unless you stay street only. Personally not recommended. Stainless Steel is WAYYYY to heavy. The addition of 1.5" is perfect for a couple of reasons. 1st being, Any Slash, Revo 2.5, TMAxx 2.5, or Some Crawler bodies will fit. 2nd, It will calm down the wheelies. I am running an 18tm, buku clutch, THS pipe, 24/72 gearing, on 30% nitro. With badlands. It will only pull wheelies when it gets allot of traction. Like on fresh close cut grass. The rest of the time its nose is planted to the ground.
    Best place to add the length is behind the fuel tank.


    As you can see in the pics. You use 2 fuel tank boxes and cut them. Move the tank forward to help keep the weight centered.
    Use the holes in your lower chassis as a guide. Add the 1.5" in the center of the tank box. Your final product should look like this.

    The pictured chassis is the one I made for Shaggy. ( I know I missed a hole. It was done before he got it. LOL)
    Steering hardware is available on-line. PM me for the place. I dont want to break any rules.
    I totally encourage you to build your own. Then you can add your own touches to it. This is a few final product pics. It has the 3.3 in most of them. The last pic is with the 18tm.





    Good luck. Feel free to ask questions.

  3. #3
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    Did u add the body mounts to the rear shock tower ? That chassis looks sick man hopefully mine turns out that good

  4. #4
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    Body mounts was an add on. It actually came with the rpm front body mount.
    Last edited by Powerman; 10-04-2012 at 07:10 PM.

  5. #5
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    ok 1st question what body is that i think i want to use the same one
    also what wheelie bar is on the truck in that pic

  6. #6
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    AHHH. Good luck getting that body. Theres a reason I dont run it. Its a crowd pleazer for a 2.5 revo. Its been discontinued for a couple years. Mine was originally built to be a SC truck. I had a tough time finding that body for it. I didnt want a truck. Originally it was built to look like this.


    The wheelie bar is a T-Bone. I added some thru bolts for durability.

  7. #7
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    does anyone mind telling me exactly what parts i need to widen my rusty

    i think i seen something about using front electric rusty rpm arms but what other if any parts do i need

  8. #8
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    VXL Turnbuckles, Electric A arms front and rear, Electric castor and steering blocks. Flip the rear A arms ans make fit. If using RPM a little sanding is required for a good fit.

  9. #9
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    Hmm I thought I read something about using rpm rear a arms on the rear and front

  10. #10
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    You can do that. Its called the Jang Mod. It makes the front wider than the rear. Adds some slop to the suspension as well. You would be better off doing the Jato mod over the Jang mod. I prefer just using the E mod. Much easier and looks more uniform. There is several ways to skin a cat. You just have to pick one that best suits your needs and go with it. Out of all the mods. The E mod is the easiest and most discreet. The Jato mod will provide the most stability but is probably one of the more difficult mods to do. As well as the most expensive. The Jang mod is the least expensive but just looks stupid. E mod is proportional to the stock set up. Just 1/2 to 3/4 inch wider. Pending on choice of wheels used. However, with the E mod you need to get +/- 1deg rear bearing carriers to create the rear toe in. If desired. I have not changed the rear blocks. I went posi rear and just learned how to drive the car that way. Once you have a true posi rear. The toe in is not important. It gonna staight line for you as long as your front is true. Going posi on the rear is probably one of the better upgrades I have done to date. That and extending the chassis has really made almost all of the power go to the ground.

  11. #11
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    Ok I may just buy my buddies vxl arms off him.... Could I use the ones off my pe2d

  12. #12
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    Sure. Any electric A arms from a pede or rusty will work. Then just get some turnbuckles.

  13. #13
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    im having a hard time finding the posi spoil for the trans?

  14. #14
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    Got my first sketch done I'm going to try to cut it out and see how I like it

  15. #15
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    I have seen all types of material used over the years. First time I have seen a wooden chassis. LOL!! It does look like you have the right idea though.

  16. #16
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    Lol well this is just to check how True my drawing is lol I'm still making changes to my design so far I have it at 15" long but I feel like I'm having a hard time finding a good looking body to fit that maybe the slipstream body

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx1991 View Post
    im having a hard time finding the posi spoil for the trans?
    I don't think they make one. There is the pro ball differential which could probably be adjusted to be like a spool but it's kind of expensive compared to using some jbweld on the stock diff.
    Rustler-3.3,Revo-Hyper .21,Jato-3.3
    lots of mods

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx1991 View Post
    im having a hard time finding the posi spoil for the trans?
    Got to look in the right place. Keep in mind. You can use some parts from an electric version. Planets and suns are the same in the diff for E and N rusties. So take a look at this.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing-T...item2a23fa0b35. Thats where I got mine.

  19. #19
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    Thats about right for length. When looking for a body. Look at wheelbase dimensions. If you added 1 1/2 inches. Your wheelbase will be about 12 3/4 inches. A 13" wheelbase body will work. You can trim to +or- 1/2 inch or so. A Slipstream is a little long, but it will work. Best thing to do is look for a revo 2.5 body. A stock body looks bad on it. Look for a JConcepts or a Proline. Maybe a Parma. Or consider a buggy body. And maybe a wing.

  20. #20
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    found a 2.0 crowd pleazer body on amazon got it for 36 shipped

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Powerman View Post
    Got to look in the right place. Keep in mind. You can use some parts from an electric version. Planets and suns are the same in the diff for E and N rusties. So take a look at this.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing-T...item2a23fa0b35. Thats where I got mine.
    I seen that but I was not sure it would work I guess I'll add that to the list

  22. #22
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    Made some progress during my lunch break

    This was a real pain to cut out with only a table saw, hack saw and drill bits
    Last edited by Double G; 10-09-2012 at 05:38 PM. Reason: clean-up language

  23. #23
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    Well I got it all put together and got to drive it lol the wooden dart drives good haha it's still to wide I'm going to do the vxl mod tomorrow and se if that helps


    ...help me here I want to do the rear arm on front mod but I know they say the front would be wider then so... What If I use rear nitro rpm arms on the front and rear vxl rpm arms on the rear ....???

  24. #24
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    Ment to say still to narrow^^

  25. #25
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    I cant believe you did it with wood! That has to be a first. But If it works for ya, go with it. You can try using the nitro rears in the front. No harm in trying. I would much rather talk about trying something new than the same old simple problems.
    Getting the body for what you did is a great find. Trim it carefully and it will fit great. Using the rear A arms on the front might make the wheelbase longer. That would make the clearance for the steering a little better.

  26. #26
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    Lol well the wood is only to be a template I am still using aluminum haha

  27. #27
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    I was gonna say you could put some paddle tires on it and run it on the water. LOL It would probably float.

  28. #28
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    Nice work man. You will need some kind of tranny brace to stop the chassis from flexing and bending on hard landings. I know its only a templet but what kind of wood is it? Heavy? As for the suspension, you have options. Stock arms are dirt cheap if you find the right place, like auction sites. You could always order a few different sets and try different things. Also note the nitro steering and caster with wheels on bearings is wider than the vxl steering/ caster setup. Another thing you could try is slash arms in the rear. There almost as long as jato arms. Jato arms may be more work but the results are amazing. My truck with jato arms and extended chassis looks just as mean, and is just as big as a revo. All this talk about custom rustys makes me want to show off mine lol. Good luck with the build.









    Shaggy...

  29. #29
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    I think the wood is like 3/4 or close to that
    What driveshafts are u using
    Last edited by Emaxx1991; 10-15-2012 at 05:56 AM.

  30. #30
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    Modified Jato shafts. Each shaft has 2 male ends and a female connecting the 2. I plan on trying slash 4x4 shafts. They might be long enough. I just ordered a bunch of shafts to keep my slash/ pede 4x4 going so i'll give it a try in the next few days and let you know if they work.
    Shaggy...

  31. #31
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    Ok I think I will order a fee different a arms like u were saying

  32. #32
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    C,Mon Shaggy. It doesnt take that much for you to show off your truck. LOL. Mine is now longer pretty. Its actually far from it. But tough as nails and fast.

  33. #33
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    I think I'm going to do the top plate with cf And the bottom with 7075 ???

  34. #34
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    That would be a great choice. Upper doesnt need to be super strong. 7075 lower will provide plenty of rigidity. CF is hard to work with though. I would invest into a scroll saw. Makes cutting the aluminum clean. Slow, but clean.

  35. #35
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    I just brought home a piece of diamond plate from work I'm gonna make the lower chassis out of.I also do composites for a living so a carbon kevlar upper deck is in store for the future

  36. #36
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    Ur going to use the flat side for the top right

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