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  1. #1
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    Gearing Discussion

    I have a 4x4 Ultimate and recently upgraded to a 2400kV MMP SCT combo. I will mainly be running 3s batteries. I'm hoping to be able to get a set of gears that will give me 60/65 mph while still having enough power to bash while keeping temperatures relatively low.......I know the holy Grail.

    I was able to GPS 47 mph with the stock gearing, motor and esc. After installing the MMP, I changed from stock to a 18/50 ratio. The truck was very smooth with OK acceleration but I dropped 4 mph to 43mph. In addition, I could hang a wheelie with the stock set up but cannot now.

    As a side, how much do you guys cinch down your slipper clutch?

  2. #2
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    I replied to your PM with these questions.

    For gearing and speeds here is what you should see with a 50T pinion, 2400kV, 3s nominal voltage of 11.1 and 4 inch tires with a 1 inch balloon. If you are too far off the mark then check your slipper. These motors have higher torque and will burn that puppy up quick, fast and in a hurry if too loose. I use the center diff for the most part but my slipper is a Revo slipper. Order up

    1 x TRA5351 Traxxas Revo Slipper pressure plate and hub (alloy)
    1 x TRA5352X Traxxas Revo Rebuild kit, slipper clutch (steel disc/ friction pads (3)/ spring/ 2x9.8mm pin/ 5x

    Replace the stock components with these and you are golden but will have to account for the extra friction surface by backing out a little more than ususal. Normal slipper adjustment is to compress the spring fully then back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn but with the extra torque the 1/4 is to much.

    11T
    36.76 mph
    12T
    40.10 mph
    13T
    43.44 mph
    14T
    46.78 mph
    15T
    50.12 mph
    16T
    53.46 mph
    17T
    56.81 mph
    18T
    60.15 mph
    19T
    63.49 mph
    20T
    66.83 mph
    21T
    70.17 mph
    22T
    73.51 mph
    23T
    76.85 mph
    24T
    80.20 mph

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    I replied to your PM with these questions.

    For gearing and speeds here is what you should see with a 50T pinion, 2400kV, 3s nominal voltage of 11.1 and 4 inch tires with a 1 inch balloon. If you are too far off the mark then check your slipper. These motors have higher torque and will burn that puppy up quick, fast and in a hurry if too loose. I use the center diff for the most part but my slipper is a Revo slipper. Order up

    1 x TRA5351 Traxxas Revo Slipper pressure plate and hub (alloy)
    1 x TRA5352X Traxxas Revo Rebuild kit, slipper clutch (steel disc/ friction pads (3)/ spring/ 2x9.8mm pin/ 5x

    Replace the stock components with these and you are golden but will have to account for the extra friction surface by backing out a little more than ususal. Normal slipper adjustment is to compress the spring fully then back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn but with the extra torque the 1/4 is to much.

    11T
    36.76 mph
    12T
    40.10 mph
    13T
    43.44 mph
    14T
    46.78 mph
    15T
    50.12 mph
    16T
    53.46 mph
    17T
    56.81 mph
    18T
    60.15 mph
    19T
    63.49 mph
    20T
    66.83 mph
    21T
    70.17 mph
    22T
    73.51 mph
    23T
    76.85 mph
    24T
    80.20 mph
    Thank you for being so helpful. In fact you were so helpful I thought starting this thread would benefit more people. Once again thanks.

    I must have my slipper to loose so tomorrow I'll give her another try. My truck also came with the center diff. What are the differences between them?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    I replied to your PM with these questions.

    For gearing and speeds here is what you should see with a 50T pinion, 2400kV, 3s nominal voltage of 11.1 and 4 inch tires with a 1 inch balloon. If you are too far off the mark then check your slipper. These motors have higher torque and will burn that puppy up quick, fast and in a hurry if too loose. I use the center diff for the most part but my slipper is a Revo slipper. Order up

    1 x TRA5351 Traxxas Revo Slipper pressure plate and hub (alloy)
    1 x TRA5352X Traxxas Revo Rebuild kit, slipper clutch (steel disc/ friction pads (3)/ spring/ 2x9.8mm pin/ 5x

    Replace the stock components with these and you are golden but will have to account for the extra friction surface by backing out a little more than ususal. Normal slipper adjustment is to compress the spring fully then back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn but with the extra torque the 1/4 is to much.

    11T
    36.76 mph
    12T
    40.10 mph
    13T
    43.44 mph
    14T
    46.78 mph
    15T
    50.12 mph
    16T
    53.46 mph
    17T
    56.81 mph
    18T
    60.15 mph
    19T
    63.49 mph
    20T
    66.83 mph
    21T
    70.17 mph
    22T
    73.51 mph
    23T
    76.85 mph
    24T
    80.20 mph
    I know you are using a data converter for these figures site clearly states estimates , they are not realistic, I run 20/50 on 3s MM2200 and nowhere near 66 mph

    http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html
    Slash 4X4, MM 2200kv
    MIP CVD
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  5. #5
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    I find the above speeds off as well. I am running the 2400, geared 21/50 and will be expecting 75ish with 4s. I'm no where near 70 on 3s. I would guess closer to 55.

  6. #6
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    Tighten your slipper! LOL
    Im pretty close to what the estimates say.
    There is another thread here with the center diff discussion going on. It will get rid of slipper issues but introduce others but you can tune that out with changing the grease to oil in the F&R and using a combination to get the traction where you want it. Power is going to follow the least path of resistance. I run 10k in the front, 30k in the center and 5K in the rear, it works well for me on my set up. With the stock setup the front tires ballooned too much. Now it squats a little on high power take offs (throttle expo turned down on the TX otherwise it will wheelie) then evens out nicely all the way too top speed whcih I rarely hit unless doing speed runs on asphalt. With a Tekin RX8 and T8 2650 Im estimating about 70mph with center diff and geared 23/50 on 3s. My motor is turing a 250rpms faster than yours per volt so that makes a little difference. The T8 is also a bigger can than the 1415 I posted up a photo in here somewhere but here it is again showing different cans. Yes I have too many!

    Left to right 1515/2200kV, 1512/2650kv, 1415/2400kV (with 5mm rotor installed) and 1410/3800kV


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    My slipper is locked, revo spec slipper.

  8. #8
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    Unless you are using a GPS or speed gun a guess is just a guess, not trying to bash you dude but those speeds are not realistic.
    Slash 4X4, MM 2200kv
    MIP CVD
    Tekno Bigbone

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. vxlrocket's Avatar
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    It doesn't account for enough wind resistance or wheel spin. I can usually get very close to my numbers (within 5 or 6 mph) but i don't run the body and i set it up for onroad. Ie: suspension and very grippy tires. I will say this...it's fairly easy to set up for 90 or so but over that and every mph is a new challenge. Aerodynamics get very very difficult over 90.
    Last edited by vxlrocket; 10-02-2012 at 09:54 PM.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dgb007 View Post
    Unless you are using a GPS or speed gun a guess is just a guess, not trying to bash you dude but those speeds are not realistic.
    Fair enough, But my guesses are pretty darn close. At least Im honest and said it was an estimate and didnt say I used a radar or GPS where its still just my word on it. Tell ya what. If you are anywhere near mid Jersey Ill show you!

    True it doesnt count for aerodynamics and I never said it was 100% just fairly close with the only variation being mechanical losses like a slipper or not enough bite on the tires. If you are packing enough punch wind drag has little to do with it. If your motor is putting out the RPMS its supposed to and all the info is entered correctly and your slipper is holding up its all in the math. The only real variant is if the motor really is turning 2400 rpms/volt applied. Now you have me wanting to get a motor tach and bench test LOL.
    Last edited by JustinThyme; 10-02-2012 at 10:13 PM.

  11. #11
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    I have a GPS, will run on MM and post tomorrow
    Slash 4X4, MM 2200kv
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  12. #12
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    By all means, let us know what you got and see if we can get it to go faster!
    Im thinking Im going to invest in a tach now just to see what RPMs the motors really are turning. I have the 2200, 2650, 2400 and MMM and MMP as well as my Tekin setup. Curious to see excatly what RPMs are actually getting to.
    Last edited by JustinThyme; 10-02-2012 at 10:41 PM.

  13. #13
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    It's not really about the rpms though, unless you just want to see if they are really pushing what they advertise. Look at the xo-1. It's a lowered, elongated slash with a massive 1700kv motor. However, the hp and torque along with very specific aerodynamics can push it over 100 even though it's pushing less rpms than a 2200 on 6s. That being said, the same principle can be said for a 2200 that belongs in a 13 pound truck can power the slash well into the 90's. The real test is taking what the script program says and then making your truck as aerodynamic as possible and seeing how close you are on the script numbers under gps or radar. Whether you are trying for 55 or 90, the faster you go the more the script program will be different because you're increasing drag with wind resistance.
    Last edited by vxlrocket; 10-02-2012 at 11:37 PM.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    By all means, let us know what you got and see if we can get it to go faster!
    Im thinking Im going to invest in a tach now just to see what RPMs the motors really are turning. I have the 2200, 2650, 2400 and MMM and MMP as well as my Tekin setup. Curious to see excatly what RPMs are actually getting to.
    Castlelink will give you rpm
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  15. #15
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    I just did a quick two runs up and down the street. To summarize, I have a Slash 4x4 Ultimate, MMP 2400KV system, pinion is 20T and Spur is 50T, 3s battery.

    Using a Garmin CS60x I recorded 51 MPH. This is up 8mph over the 18/54 gearing I had yesterday.

    I did check the slipper clutch and it was a little loose yesterday. I'm very impressed with the torque this thing has! I'd like to get another 9mph out of it.

  16. #16
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    Hows the temps holding out? If they are good then add some more pinion. Ive run up to a 23T on this combo and heard of others running 24T.
    So are you getting wheelies now that the slipper has been addressed?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dgb007 View Post
    Castlelink will give you rpm
    Not under load it wont and what the castle link expresses is the frequency of the DC sawtooth waveform going out of the ESC which does not mean that is the actual speed the motor is turning, right back to theory and not actual. There is no sensor invloved so the only real way to see what its doing is an optical, magnetic or capacitive tach. What a lot of people dont understand is the brushless motor isnt really a DC motor and reacts to amplitude as well as frequency just as a synchronous AC motor does. With a brushed set up its simply a matter of how many volts are applied, brushless isnt that simple.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-04-2012 at 07:36 AM. Reason: merge

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    Hows the temps holding out? If they are good then add some more pinion. Ive run up to a 23T on this combo and heard of others running 24T.
    So are you getting wheelies now that the slipper has been addressed?
    Honestly I don't have a heat gun at this point. I am waiting for the LHS to get TQi sensors back in stock. Until then, I will only take a few high speed runs at a time.

    ETA. Yes it's hanging wheelies even with the relatively heavy Garmin attached to the inside of the front bumper. I'm going to make a mount so I can put it closer to the CG.

  18. #18
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    I would still recommend getting an IR gun. The temp sensor on the TQi uses a diode where the PN junction is measured for voltage drop that varies with thermal reaction. Battery voltage and how good the probe is bonded all plays a part. IMO even a cheap IR gun is more accurate and probably cheaper.

    http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Tempe...ref=pd_cp_hi_1

  19. #19
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    So I upgraded a few parts today. I did the Revo Slipper clutch upgrade that was recommended by Justin. I think, I'm going to have to back off on how tight it is as the truck is doing wheelies at speed. In addition to the slipper upgrade I also installed GH Racing Al. motor mount with a much larger bearing than the Traxxas bushing or upgrade bearing kit.

    My Ultimate came with the upgrade bearing and Al. bushing and it seized after two days. I honestly believe it was the failure mechanism for the Velineon motor and then by extension the Velineon ESC.

    I also bought the battery strap that allows you to use 2 x 2s batts. Unfortunately I'm not going to beable to try it out today since one of the rear "u joints" failed. What an expensive hobby.

  20. #20
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    I dont use a TQi, Dont like them hence why I said I was going to get a tach, purely for research purposes and to contribute here for everyone to use the information. My truck runs great but others are obviously having issues getting the speed they should be getting that is purely a mathematical calculation based on what should be accurate information. The only breakdown in the calcualtion that is not certain is the actual motor rpms, everything else is a constant. This peaked my curiousity to find out why. My theory is that the RPMs of the motor are not coinciding with what they should be.
    You responded that rpms can be gathered from castle link in response to my post.
    I replied that it cannot and offered an explanation of why. If you have a better explanation lets hear it .

    I have advanced knowledge in electronics, it's what I do for a living and have done for 30 years now. Im just here to try and help others out because I enjoy it.

    Quote Originally Posted by THEBOMBER View Post
    So I upgraded a few parts today. I did the Revo Slipper clutch upgrade that was recommended by Justin. I think, I'm going to have to back off on how tight it is as the truck is doing wheelies at speed. In addition to the slipper upgrade I also installed GH Racing Al. motor mount with a much larger bearing than the Traxxas bushing or upgrade bearing kit.

    My Ultimate came with the upgrade bearing and Al. bushing and it seized after two days. I honestly believe it was the failure mechanism for the Velineon motor and then by extension the Velineon ESC.

    I also bought the battery strap that allows you to use 2 x 2s batts. Unfortunately I'm not going to beable to try it out today since one of the rear "u joints" failed. What an expensive hobby.
    So you are planning on trying 4s? That will surely get you past your speed mark.
    Yes once you get the actual revo slipper and not the so called "revo spec" you will have to adjust it out a little further, like 1/2-3/4 turn or more. If you are still running the stock outdrives then its definitely time to upgrade them before attempting 4s. I prefer the Teknos as they flex with a torsion bar effect so you have some give, some prefer the MIPs. Thats a never ending debate no matter what forum you go to.

    Edit:
    Good move on the motor mount and bearing upgrade. This is one of the high failure point of this truck even when running stock.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-04-2012 at 07:35 AM. Reason: merge

  21. #21
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    I'm not here to argue, buy your numbers are unrealistic. They don't factor in wind resistance/drag, drivetrain losses, or wheel spin. Also a 1" balloon is a little much isn't it?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cinnabun View Post
    I'm not here to argue, buy your numbers are unrealistic. They don't factor in wind resistance/drag, drivetrain losses, or wheel spin. Also a 1" balloon is a little much isn't it?
    you both have points..it's just the faster you go, the more there will be a difference in the speed calculator and what real wind resistance and drag/wheel spin does. these trucks are about as aerodynamic as a brick...they aren't a good example of how accurate the calculator is unless you run it without a body. it's a good guesstamator for most other vehicles though.

    also...1" ballooning is nothing...i've seen them increase 3-4 inches on some brands

    this is a bit extreme, but look at the poower of the 2200 and what it can do to the tires...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOVXQnuQmFM
    that's a good 4 inches before they come apart.
    Last edited by vxlrocket; 10-03-2012 at 06:00 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    So you are planning on trying 4s? That will surely get you past your speed mark.
    Yes once you get the actual revo slipper and not the so called "revo spec" you will have to adjust it out a little further, like 1/2-3/4 turn or more. If you are still running the stock outdrives then its definitely time to upgrade them before attempting 4s. I prefer the Teknos as they flex with a torsion bar effect so you have some give, some prefer the MIPs. Thats a never ending debate no matter what forum you go to.

    Edit:
    Good move on the motor mount and bearing upgrade. This is one of the high failure point of this truck even when running stock.
    I did get the actual Revo slipper......the two part numbers you suggested anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by THEBOMBER View Post
    I just did a quick two runs up and down the street. To summarize, I have a Slash 4x4 Ultimate, MMP 2400KV system, pinion is 20T and Spur is 50T, 3s battery.

    Using a Garmin CS60x I recorded 51 MPH. This is up 8mph over the 18/54 gearing I had yesterday.

    I did check the slipper clutch and it was a little loose yesterday. I'm very impressed with the torque this thing has! I'd like to get another 9mph out of it.
    Nowhere near 66.83 Justin is saying, guessing is for horseshoes and hand grenades
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  25. #25
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    The numbers really arent that unrealistic and wind drag will pull it down a little but not by 20% and really dont apply until you get into the upper range and only then when you are under powered or marginally powered. Im thinking everyone interested in this thread are running decent, or at least perceived to be decent, high torque motors with power to spare. Wind drag on a 1/10 car is minimal. If you thow a soccer ball into the wind and a golf ball into the wind which will go farther? I would concede that a 1/10 car may loose 5mph tops at 100 mph but thats about the limit of it. But 15mph loss at half that speed?

    1" of balloon is actually a conservative figure. Thats 1/2" out from center and seeing how a tire is round that increases the diameter by an inch. Loss of traction is a cause of running the wrong tires on the surface you are running on and there are no drive train losses like the automatic transmission on a car. Its a straight gear ratio and mathematically certain unless your gears are stripped or you slipper clutch is loose. Im not trying to argue either, just trying to figure out why some numbers are so far off. If you are doing a speed run on a flat high bite surface with good tires there should be no issues with loss of traction, I know I dont have that issue in the least when doing speed runs, on a dirt track, well thats another story. The intent was never to say this calculation is 100% accurate but it should be fairly close as rocket said, within 5-6mph at the high end. From what I see, putting all the little losses aside that will make up the 5-6 mph, the only big contributer here is the only unkown...true motor RPMs under load. Im not complaining about my speeds in the least and ditched the castle set up for other reasons on the primary car I run. When I got it to where it was fast enough it suffered with throttle control on the low end. Replaced with sensored Tekin RX8/T8 2650 combo.....problem solved. Its plenty fast enough now. Im not trying to discount anyone here, just trying to help you guys out getting the speed where you want it. Im 30 years in the electronics engineering business with a BAS in electronics engineering From Tulane. Graduated from college before most on this forum were born. If you dont want the help, just say so and I wont post in anymore of these threads and go help somoene else out on another forum.
    Last edited by JustinThyme; 10-03-2012 at 08:37 PM.

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    Well today, I did 53.7mph with a 4s and 21/50 gearing... Running stock tires I could not hold full throttle. Anything over about 1/2 pull would shred the tires off. I also couldn't hold much throttle because I was limited on space by the time I got the truck to hook up. And the lipo went into lvc 5 mins after I took that reading, so I was not getting full power.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dgb007 View Post
    guessing is for horseshoes and hand grenades
    and thermonuclear warfare

    Quote Originally Posted by Cinnabun View Post
    Well today, I did 53.7mph with a 4s and 21/50 gearing... Running stock tires I could not hold full throttle. Anything over about 1/2 pull would shred the tires off. I also couldn't hold much throttle because I was limited on space by the time I got the truck to hook up. And the lipo went into lvc 5 mins after I took that reading, so I was not getting full power.
    Same tires in your pics thread?
    Are you spinning on all 4?
    Is your radio range limited?

    Just wondering as Bomber got 51 on 3s 20/50

    Quote Originally Posted by Dgb007 View Post
    I have a GPS, will run on MM and post tomorrow
    did you run yours yet?

    Quote Originally Posted by THEBOMBER View Post
    I did get the actual Revo slipper......the two part numbers you suggested anyway.
    Yep thats the actual Revo, not the "revo spec"
    It has far more bite and will have to be backed off a bit more.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-04-2012 at 07:34 AM. Reason: merge

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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    Same tires in your pics thread?
    Are you spinning on all 4?
    Is your radio range limited?

    Just wondering as Bomber got 51 on 3s 20/50
    Yes, the stock bald tires, all 4 tires would spin under hard accel and torque steer out of control. Actually, rolling into 1/2 pull, if I grabbed full pull all 4 tires would let loose and torque steer the truck. I'm also fighting some serious body roll. Once the tires lose traction, I have to let off before it gets violent. I was running out of space, plenty of range, just limited to the parking lot at work. And like I said, the pack was in the edge of dead, I would say if I had to guess, they were probably at 3.6v per cell. I've got to tune up my suspension, install my sway bars and get some new rubber on the truck, and I should be in better shape.

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    Well thats a good try anyway and half of the fun!
    I know what you mean with the body roll. Best investment Ive made is the TRCE LCG chassis. I can pretty much end a high speed run with a 180 and not roll. My biggest issues are the torque steer and Im trying to figure up a way out of that. I can say that it lessened with a center diff considerably. If you havent run something other than stock tires you are in for a big suprise. Did you say you odered up the street fighters for on road? Thats what Im running on asphalt, M2 compound. I tried some a set of M3s that really got some bite but they lived a short life.

    I snapped my fisrt set of stock axles, both rear at the same time, on M3 street fighters.

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    No, I ordered proline switch tires in m2. They looked like a on/off road tire, which is what I need. I had trenchers on the truck, but this past weekend, one of the hexes in the rim rounded out while bashing on 3s. So tomorrow I should be getting my aluminum hexes, split six beadlocs and switch tires. I may also get a set of street fighters depending on how the switch tires wear.

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    A light bulb just went off in my head.

    What is everyone running their ESC timing at? That makes for a fairly large difference in speed, like 30% from the low end to the high end. Going higher cuts out low end torque but adds to the top end, of course the inverse is also true.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cinnabun View Post
    No, I ordered proline switch tires in m2. They looked like a on/off road tire, which is what I need. I had trenchers on the truck, but this past weekend, one of the hexes in the rim rounded out while bashing on 3s. So tomorrow I should be getting my aluminum hexes, split six beadlocs and switch tires. I may also get a set of street fighters depending on how the switch tires wear.
    I hear ya. I jumped though the same hoops trying to keep costs down then as I watched the stack of worn out tires grew. I broke down and bought a different set for everything I run on. So far thats working out pretty good. I learned the hardway in the beginng when I ruined a brand new set of M3 goosebumps on asphalt on a single pack. Then I tried for awhile to find a good all purpose tire and didnt so so well with that either, it actually seemed to aggrevate the problem as they ran ok on some surfaces, really bad on others but seemed to run well on hardpack clay.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-04-2012 at 07:36 AM. Reason: merge

  32. #32
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    I'm running 0* timing to get punch and slightly lower temps

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. vxlrocket's Avatar
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    I run 10 degrees. It helps prevent wheelies
    Associated rc8TE, rc8.2E, B4.2, Ofna LX2E, Slash

  34. #34
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    Castle states is is better to gear up for maximum top speed, raising timing advance will increase amp draw decrease runtime, increase motor/battery temperature and may slightly increase top speed and punch. Default setting is normal, best mix of speed, punch and efficiency.

    I might try it to see what the speed difference is, I have adjusted punch from 0 to 50% and achieved higher top end. It fun to wheelie but after awhile its just ponderous. Adjusting bell curve on castlelink also improves top end.
    Slash 4X4, MM 2200kv
    MIP CVD
    Tekno Bigbone

  35. #35
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    Yeah I followed castles advice too but seeing how we are all running over rated motors and speaking for myself over rated battereis I jacked the timing advance to max. It lost a good bit of low end torque which wasnt so bad as it kept the nose down, the top end rasied quite a bit and it did get warmer but still not past 150F. I also ignored their advice on pinion and spur gear selection and from the sounds of it, pretty much everyone has LOL I ended up putting timing back to 10% and left it there. I didnt mess with the throttle curve until I got it geared up where I was happy but that was more about trying to get low end control and I wasnt successful at it.

    Im with you on the wheelie. Its fun for about 1 pack then its time to move on to where you can control it. Runing the center diff I never went past 20% on the punch limiter.

    Let us know how you make out with it. I would test with you but the only thing i have in one piece RTR has the Tekin in it and Im kinda liking that.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dgb007 View Post
    I have a GPS, will run on MM and post tomorrow
    At 50/22 0 punch timing at the highest 3s lipo revo slipper 43 mph, cinnabun recorded 49 on 3s. I'm thinking the extra weight of the MM2200 coupled with the MIP slows me down. Having said that I would rather go 43 with a castle and stay cool, whichI do, than go 53 with the velineon and overheat and fry a motor which I did. Maybe venture to the 4s lipo....it's only money
    Slash 4X4, MM 2200kv
    MIP CVD
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  37. #37
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    55 on 4s while sliding into a curb.
    Sl4sh mmp2400 - savage flux hp XL - vorza flux hp

  38. #38
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    Gets kinda squirrelly at those speeds....not to mention ripping tires on my beadloc
    Slash 4X4, MM 2200kv
    MIP CVD
    Tekno Bigbone

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