Rag6 4xbasher build

[rag6]

Here is the screw set I recieved, Missing some items from the ebay pic:

I will contact the seller.

Strc motor plate:


Tbone ft bumper/clear skid combo:

By the way? What is the composite tube for? What purpose does it serve?


Center diff:


Comes with 100k wt. Any idea what wt is needed to achieve wheelies???

[rag6]

I am done with trying to buy stock Traxxas Parts at my HTUSA. Went in and asked "show me all your plastic stock pede 4x4 parts." after 20 min he came back with a rear skid. He did not have anything else. I really wanted a stock center bearing carrier. Nope. C-blocks, ft axle sets, ft or rear bearing carriers, shock towers, body mounts, nada. They sell a ton of these trucks and stock nothing. All I got was "we can order it for you, and it will prob be here next Friday." I said I can order it and it will be here Monday-Tuesday, for cheaper. He said " Maybe you shouldn't get parts here". Seriously?!?. I have had this issue with this local shop for years. I am done. UGH!

[Petertje60]

My fav LHS does it's best to keep me as a customer. They know that they can't compete with the prices I pay when I order from the US, so they make it interesting for stuff where they can compete.

No idea about the wt in the diff. I prefer driving without. I assume you want the way in the middle: better handling and still wheelies.

[rag6]

The literature in the package says 100k wt. I am guessing I will need at least 300k to get what I want. That is what I will try first. A diff with an incorporated slipper would be perfect. It would let me run ridiculous wt oil, and still dial down a slipper setting. I know the 1 way will give me 75% of the characteristics of what I want, The missing 25% would be loss of braking.
I still have both the slipper and 1 way as options. I cannot find anyone on the net who has tried the HR 1 way. They are for sale all over the place, and the price is not dropping from the first time I seen it a year go. Someone must be buying them! If they are durable, I will spend the $40, but have not found 1 person with experience with it.

[Petertje60]

Maybe a tiny margin is the problem for the prices not dropping. If there are people happy with it, I'd expect to find them in this place.
I think a slipper/diff combo would be a pain to setup the right way. And maybe even more to keep it the right way.
One if the things I like about the Rustler compared to the 4x4 Pede, is the easy way you can reach the slipper.
The Pede asks more effort to get the slipper right, which increases when you increase the power.

Good luck finding the sweet spot!

[rag6]

Good points Peter...

[4sdash]

ht usa is a poor excuse for a hobby store they use to beat me over the head for things about 15 year ago , but hey we all wise up the problem with all the ht is their is another person taking a cut of the money making the prices go higher but you have a nice build going rag6 please let us know how the center diff works out

[rag6]

looking at bodies... man wish there were more choices.

[Dadx2mj]

looking at bodies... man wish there were more choices.

You can make almost any 1/10th scale off road body work with different mounts. I have put a Desert Rat and Illuzion both made for a Rustler on my Pede 4x4. I just put my Illuzion back on with a Losi wing and mount after the stock Illuzion wing got destroyed. Gives it a Truggy look.

[rag6]

Truggys are cool. I do like some of the cab forward bodies that will fit. tThe Rusty ST bodies are not me. The first version of this truck will be a big tire traditional monster. I was thinking maybe to switch to a truggy for racing after winter, but now that the 1/10 rally is coming, it may become a sc truck(UGH! cant get away from sct!). I want a monster body. A personal pede monster body.

so far 50's Chevy or Ford Raptor, I like both.

[spenniepoos]

Hi rag6 i have had 3 1950s chevy bodys they are sweet with a good paint job and nice wheels.just dont use the stock dimples or the shocks will rub at the front so move the body a few mm forward and it looks better and no rubbing worries...peace..plus old school body rocks

[rag6]

Got my ft/r skids, susp pins and bulk supports.

Made a list of what I still need, and its loooonnnnnggg. Have about 1/4 of the items so far.

I am cookin up my color scheme: shades of black and grey. Dont know if I want to ungreen the castle motor...
Am considering a flat black 50 chevy body. Does anyone make a polycarb spray on clear sealer??? Only way I will paint on the outside. I can either go with gunmetal or strip off the ano on any alum parts that find their way onto the truck.

Also am getting a set of v2 sc10 shocks. Will either strip them for the build or use my big bores.

[rag6]

SCORE!

Set of big bores traded for a 15 mile trip, or, $2.81 worth of fuel in my taxi:

[rag6]

Modded the chassis to get everything to fit:

[RCTRAIN]

Nice wish i could get them for that price
is that a mamba monster in there

[rag6]

No, a while back, castle sold off some experimental motors in a clearance sale. This can is about the same size as a 2650kv, but its 1800kv. I will run 3s with it. it should run about the same as a stock system on 2s, but run much cooler, allowing me much better range of gearing choices... The esc is a mamba max pro.

[spenniepoos]

That setup will be a torque monster.What body shell are you going to use rag6??..peace

[rag6]

Not sure yet. Maybe 50's chevy or raptor.

Want to pick up sets of losi springs for the big bores... What colors should I get for a heavier truck?

[TQi]

Looking good, that's too funny how you got the big bores awesome

[DiggerPede]

WOW rag!! That 1800kv is clean. I run its higher 2650kv brother in my Sl4sh, and that one is a beast. That's a way tight fit. Any thoughts of moving the MMP to the front of the chassis? I did that to give it more airflow for the P4de. Plus helps with extra cooling up higher than sitting on the pan below with much less. I know that motor isnt going to put out much heat if any.

This is what I did on my P4de.

[rag6]

Is the 2400 as long as the 2650? Your 2400 looks longer than the 1800 I have, but might just be that its skinnier.

I am not worried about temps at all, but it is a VERY tight fit. I love how everything will be neat and clean, but worried about how impacts may affect the esc's circuits. Dig, How did you mount it? I was thinking of how to bolt down a flat plate so I could servo tape it down... I have all this extra composite plate from my dismantled chuckworks racer.

[rag6]

Looking good, that's too funny how you got the big bores awesome

Nice wish i could get them for that price
is that a mamba monster in there

well, if I take a 15 mile trip in my cab, its aprox 29$. The cool part is that it only cost me about a gal of propane to go that far(2.81$). I got a guy into the hobby and he dropped out. Sold his rtr with the stock shocks and saved the big bores. I told him he gets a trip on me in the future. he was stuck because of breaking down, and needed to get to work. They are so clean, but are shortened. They are very well used, but look new. I need to rebuild them. One of the bladders were ripped. Still the shafts are clean and straight.

Any ideas for a range of Losi springs?

[dgudenau]

Any ideas for a range of Losi springs?

Here is a link to the losi spring chart: http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...ring_chart.gif
Depending on the final weight of your pede, either pink or yellow springs would probably work well.

[rag6]

So if my truck is running a 1/8 motor, with a 3s pack, what is the medium spring ft and back? I would like to pick up a medium (for a heavier truck), a lighter, and heavier set for both ft and rear. Guys who are running these big motors with bigger packs, What would you suggest are the mid point? I will figure it out from there

[rag6]

Sorry dgudenau, did not see your post when I posted. Thanks for the pointer. I was thinking of getting the springs you mentioned, and a set stiffer and softer for each the front and back.

So, I think I want a Raptor body, charcoal gray as the base color, and shades from black to light gray for the details. Def want black fenders and A tribal scheme. I also got a painter for the project. Kwitty has offered to donate his airbrushing skills to a body for me. He has been turning out some really impressive paint schemes. THANKS KARL!

Has anyone ever seen 300k wt diff oil anywhere? I cannot find it, but swear I seen that wt before. Both my lhs's say that 125k is the highest made, but not sure about that...

[DiggerPede]

Has anyone ever seen 300k wt diff oil anywhere? I cannot find it, but swear I seen that wt before. Both my lhs's say that 125k is the highest made, but not sure about that...

I found Mugen & Kyosho 300,000wt Dif Oil

Those were the only 2 I could find.

[Dadx2mj]

Has anyone ever seen 300k wt diff oil anywhere? I cannot find it, but swear I seen that wt before. Both my lhs's say that 125k is the highest made, but not sure about that...

I looked all over the place and could not find 300k diff fluid when I was about to give up the hunt a light bulb went off in my kid's head and he went digging in a box in the corner of the garage and came up with a bottle about 3/4 full of 300k diff oil. So I know it was available at least at some time but it sure is hard to find now.

[rag6]

Thanks dig and dad. I knew I had seen it before. Calling lhs to get them to order it(even know they say it doesn't exist lol!)

I searched a-main... I must not know how to search lol!

[DiggerPede]

I searched a-main... I must not know how to search lol!

It was a toughy. I had to put it in there just right @ amain. Tower didnt offer anything. Then threw the search to GOOGLE and it brought up amainhobbies for both of those yet again. 300k didnt bring up anything but 300,000wt did. LOL

[rag6]

Hey dig, asked in a previous post how you mounted the esc to the front. Did you use a plate, or servo tape it directly?

[rag6]

Just tried to order through htusa and my other cooler lhs, and neither can get it from the distributors. Looks like amain it is. Thanks so much you are the man!

[DiggerPede]

Sorry I missed this post.

Is the 2400 as long as the 2650? Your 2400 looks longer than the 1800 I have, but might just be that its skinnier.

They are both 2.7" long. The 1512 has a 1.6" dia & the 1415 has a 1.4" dia. Think it's an optical illusion. LOL

I am not worried about temps at all, but it is a VERY tight fit. I love how everything will be neat and clean, but worried about how impacts may affect the esc's circuits. Dig, How did you mount it? I was thinking of how to bolt down a flat plate so I could servo tape it down... I have all this extra composite plate from my dismantled chuckworks racer.

I sho-goo'd a piece of lexan plate cut to fit past the bulk screws. Then put velcro on both the plate and ESC. It's held down really well. I also have an Outerwears cover that keeps it hunkered down to.

BTW I ordered a couple snappy-rc mounts. One for the P4de and another for my Rally 4WD. I use one on my Digger so I like how well they do. Hopefully work the same on these.

[DiggerPede]

Just tried to order through htusa and my other cooler lhs, and neither can get it from the distributors. Looks like amain it is. Thanks so much you are the man!

If you ever got in a bind you could do a 50/50 mix of 500k & 125k to get you 312.5k. They recommend using the same brands when doing that. Dunno what the adverse effect would be if you did.

[rag6]

Cool dig, I will keep that in mind.

[rag6]

Guess what I found:





Found a really cool hobby shop in my travels. They actually stock things for what they sell. It is pretty far from my pad, but told me if I pay for stuff that they dont have in stock, they will ship it for free to me. I think this may be my new shop.

Anyway, they ordered the traxxas 300kwt for me. Never knew they made it.

EDIT: also, it costs less than half of the mugen and kyosho stuff 8°))

[DiggerPede]

Anyway, they ordered the traxxas 300kwt for me. Never knew they made it.

EDIT: also, it costs less than half of the mugen and kyosho stuff 8°))

I hope he can get it. I've looked everywhere and it doesnt show to be available. Must have been an unpopular weight.

[rag6]

Ok, Trx does not make it. He said he would order 300k, but it was from mugen. He called me and said he cannot get it through his distributor. He also said that the different companies rate them differently, thats why not to mix them. I have trx 100k, and will just have to mix it with the 500k to get something close to 300k. guess 60/40 should do it.

He also said that trx seems the thickest of all the brands to him.

[Dadx2mj]

Ok, Trx does not make it. He said he would order 300k, but it was from mugen. He called me and said he cannot get it through his distributor. He also said that the different companies rate them differently, thats why not to mix them. I have trx 100k, and will just have to mix it with the 500k to get something close to 300k. guess 60/40 should do it.

He also said that trx seems the thickest of all the brands to him.

If you are going to mix different weights this Calcualtor might help. It is from the same guy who did the speed calculator most of us use but it is to get a desired weight of oil from other weights.

[rag6]

I figured out my paint theme. I am gonna paint it, 2 colors. Charcoal grey and black, with black and white decals. Kwitty is gonna paint my pf8 display body.

[rag6]

If you are going to mix different weights this Calcualtor might help. It is from the same guy who did the speed calculator most of us use but it is to get a desired weight of oil from other weights.

That helps looks like it should be 2p 500k to 1p 100k.