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Thread: Stronger axles

  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Question Stronger axles

    I was wondering what my options for stronger axles on my pede are
    If I go with strong axles will I have any other problems with other parts breaking
    I have heard mip are very good is there a less expensive option
    sl2sh, p4de trail truck

  2. #2
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    Tekno is a less expensive option. I like better the design over MIP. They are $36-40 on eBay.

    Here's mine. No problems on them so far.

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    If i get teknos do I need different rear hub carriers
    sl2sh, p4de trail truck

  4. #4
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCTRAIN View Post
    If i get teknos do I need different rear hub carriers
    The set comes with two pair with different toe-in angles.
    Alt-241 on the number pad =

  5. #5
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    I have teknos all around too. I think they are a better option and cheaper over mip, plus as said above they come with bearings, hubs, plus the plastic buckles that allows you to adjust camber, ect. Great product.

  6. #6
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    What in your opinion makes them better than MIP?

  7. #7
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    http://www.teknorc.com/product-categ...ede-4x4-parts/
    You should not have other parts breaking due to this upgrade.
    Rear TKR6852X
    Fronts TKR6851X
    ( unless you have the Proline Protrac, different part #'s)
    Last edited by No One; 09-18-2012 at 08:32 PM.
    Stampede VXL
    Stampede 4x4 Monster Mutt

  8. #8
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    They are dogbone style which doesn't require extra cleaning. MIP requires grease in their splines to perform well which will attract more dirt. Tekno are lighter. You'll get beefy hub carriers and larger bearings in the Tekno kit.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Get mips all round they are a little on the heavy side but they dont pop out on jumps and they are so strong. had mine for just over 2 years and beat the poo poo out of them But teknos rock as well so its up to you dude
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  10. #10
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    I have never cleaned my mips and stopped using graphite and grease on them and no issues even at the skate park...
    Thrash It, Bash it, Break it, No Regrets!!!

  11. #11
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    +1 on the teknos here. Have had no problems with them popping out. I now have Tekno parts front, rear, and the center drive shaft.

  12. #12
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    I also have Tekno's on all corners, just built a Slash-Pede 4x4 MT (converted 4x4 pede to slash, but put pro-line trencher 2.8's on it from pede). I just ran my new build for the first time in the parking lot, man do those trenchers grab the ground (although already showing minor wear shoulders as I think they were meant mostly for dirt), had my slipper waaayyy to tight, especially with those aluminum pads. With the 2400kV geared 17 / 54 it would pull wheelies at lower speeds with ease even with longer wheel base and twin 3S1P 4000mah 25C packs in parallel moved in the forward position, so this thing has torque galore!

    The reason I'm saying this to illustrate the stress its under. No issues with popping out or any signs of wear (Even the finish on the ball cup is still there). I think the only time you would run into issues with them poppin out is using shock positions on the extreme inner area with your truck jacked up to the moon. There's no way they will come out with normal positions unless you break something like an A-arm. Also some people run the pro-track wide suspension arms from pro-line and make the mistake of buying the standard length M6 CV's when they need the longer versions. With the MIP's you can use one version for both wide and standard suspension, so that's an advantage with the MIP's.

    I vote for the Tekno's (not because I have them, but because I"ve used them without issue), especially since you can get them for $45 a pair at amainhobbies.com, they come with the following:

    - larger bearings front and rear
    - use 6mm axels
    - have bearing carriers with additional tuning postions for chamber, toe in and bump steer
    - have less rotating mass which allows for better acceleration (although with a motor like the 2400kV I doubt you'd notice any difference).
    - there are no screws to fall out / come loose save the ones on the drive cup (they use the stock through pin set scews on the drive cup which are very reliable in my experience)

    As for strength I don't think one is much better than the other, I'd say both the X-duty and the M6's are more than up to the task of abuse. The only real reason I can see going with the X-duty's over the M6's is if you want to change between stock and wide off-set suspension for racing / bashing or you run extreme shock positions (i.e. that second inner most hole some people use which traxxas states is not intended as a shock mounting hole) to get your ground clearance as high as possible.

  13. #13
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    I'll add that the 17mm adapters from Tekno are an excellent design (using the same system as many 1:8 & 1:5 scale vehicles) should you go that way.
    Alt-241 on the number pad =

  14. #14
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    Thanks for all the info guys I'm thinking of getting teknos just for the rear since I don't have a lot of $ to spend
    I like that I don't have to lube them and the dog bones
    sl2sh, p4de trail truck

  15. #15
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    I second the aluminum hexes, if you NEED steel drive shafts in the rear, you NEED aluminum hexes. I just rounded one of the plastic hexes the Tekno's came with on the first run. The drive shafts and King Headz bearing / carrier I upgraded to performed great, even the parkerized finish on the drive cups does not show any signs of wear after 20 minutes of hard bashing (with a way to tight slipper). But the aluminum hexes are a must or you'll risk runining your wheels. Luckily the hex itself is mostly what rounded out and failed, the wheel has minor rounded on the centers of the flats, so it can be used on the front with a good hex and I'll rotate a fresh un-molested wheel to the rear.

    From Amainhobbies, you can get front, rear and the 12mm aluminum hexes for about $110. Mips you'll pay $150 for front and rear, all you get are the drive shafts (which are more than adequite strength wise), but your paying more for less overall which is why I wouldn't reccomend them unless you have a unique application like I mentioned above.

    You could also go with 17mm hexes if you wanted to run 1/8 scale buggy / truggy tires or larger MT tires. I like the 2.8 stampede sized MT tires for this truck, they are a good medium size that gives the truck a performance MT look and the handling backs that up, so for me I'm staying with 12mm unless I start destroying wheels even with the aluminum hexes (although I ran the stock talons and wheels with traxxas aluminum hexes and didn't have any issues with those, same 2400kV i have now, just was before I had done the chassis conversion).
    Last edited by WiNandLeGeNd; 09-20-2012 at 07:38 AM.

  16. #16
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    You can pick Mip's up for about 55$ a piece front and rear on ebay and various other sites. They also come with aluminum hex's.
    Thrash It, Bash it, Break it, No Regrets!!!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Get mips all round they are a little on the heavy side but they dont pop out on jumps and they are so strong. had mine for just over 2 years and beat the poo poo out of them But teknos rock as well so its up to you dude
    I've had bad luck with dogbones wearing cups in the past, which is why I got the MIPs for the rear on my pede.
    I put the Integy XHD copy of them on the front. Same design as MIP only come ready to install and half the price.
    So far, so good!

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