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  1. #1
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    Big problem with tuning my slayer and cant find the problem ... :/

    I got my slayer on the pavement today ! .. Factory setting .. So hard to start ! once i stop it stall after 3 sec ... To start my truck i have to press the gaz full throttle ... even there it hard ... on lunching the response is so slow ! .. i put full trothlle and it take evreything to get speed ... like having no compression in the engin .. :/ i dont know what to do now ... maybe bring it to the LHS im clueless ...

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Try riching/leaning the lsn, it could be rich or too lean, so it doesn't want to idle... Maybe try leaning the hsn? I know when I put my Slayer back to stock specs it was SUCH A PAIN to start untill I leaned the hsn a little... (Or alot) It sounds rich to me, but just to make sure, you can lean the hsn and the lsn and see if that helps... I wouldn't take it to your lhs... They will most likely charge you for it, and besides, help is what me, and this fourm is for! Good luck!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  3. #3
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    Ok thanks .. Because for now my HSN is at 4 turn out ! ... and it a pain to start ... and LSN it flush .. but i did the pinch test and it stay open for very long time ! XD my rmp raise like crazy and take like 10-15min to close

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    i did the pinch test and it stay open for very long time ! XD my rmp raise like crazy and take like 10-15min to close
    Don't worry... My Slayer is well tuned right now... and the inch test takes about 15-20 seconds! Does fuel come out of the exhaust pipe when it starts? If so, it's too rich... I could use some more info on what it does when it starts, and what it sounds like and what it does when it stops running.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  5. #5
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    yes there some dark fuel coming from the exhaust .. and it sound like ... it always on the same tone like he is looking for power to get the second gear ...

  6. #6
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    did u an air leak test?? did u take the engine apart at any time?? piston orientation is important when putting back together..

  7. #7
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    The engine is new i just put it in like 2 week ago .. and i chek for leak before ...

  8. #8
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    are u still havin problems with it??

  9. #9
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    mine was acting the same way and come to find out, I had a crack in the carb housing....replaced the housing and it runs like a scolded dog

  10. #10
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    yeah air leaks are killers..

  11. #11
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    Yea still having problem ... it good at high speed it only when i start .. i push the triger full gas and it take 4-5 sec before going foward ... :/

  12. #12
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    sounds like low speed needle need to be leaned alot.. after its to running temp..

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Yea still having problem ... it good at high speed it only when i start .. i push the triger full gas and it take 4-5 sec before going foward ... :/
    Have you checked to make sure your fuel is ok? I left out some new fuel for 2-3 days, then I tried to use it in my Slayer. It wouldn't start. I put some fresh nitro in, and it started. Go figure. Try riching the lsn a bit... Good Luck!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  14. #14
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    I always take out all the gass and put new one each run so it not gumed or bad gas ... I more a needle problème it so sensitive you turn a bit to much it doesnt work

  15. #15
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    u said the engine is only 2 weeks old.. did u have any problems when breaking it in?? start back at factory settings.. tune your hsn then the lsn..

  16. #16
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    I didnt have any problem at breaking in .. It only now i want to tune it up right i have so much pain geting the lsn well tune ... The hsn it not too bad maybe litle bit rich .. Ill fix it but the lsn it so hard :/ i put it flush but how could i know it realy flush ... Maybe it 1/16 turn out and we know it doesnt take alot to mess up a trx3.3 settings

  17. #17
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    why do u want it flush?? flush is break in setting so is 4 turns out on the hsn. if its broke in u should be leaning hsn first for crisp power.. once u have hsn dialed in adjust your lsn for crisp fast take off..

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    I really don't follow most of the guide lines to tuning, I've found (at least on my Slayer anyway) that when I put the lsn and idle speed to correct factory specs, it really messes up my tune. You idle speed screw could be too far in, or out. When your Slayer idles, does it creep forward at all? If so, that mean you idle speed screw in too far in. Try turning it out 3/4 a turn or so, it should help. But if your Slayer doesn't creep forward when it idles, that doesn't mean it's ok. It could be too far out, making it hard to idle, or run at all. Try checking both of them before you take anything apart. Hope this helps!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  19. #19
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    Ok so i have to tune my hsn until it run well ... and after that the lsn until i get quick start?

  20. #20
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    yes get the engine hot, then turn in the hsn in 1/8 of turn make some passes check temp, if good turn another 1/8 in make some passes check temp if good turn another 1/8 in make some passes.. if it starts to stutter or temp is over 260'f its to lean turn back 1/8... run some passes if temp is good go on to lsn.. turn in 1/8 run some passes repeat if needed..

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    yes get the engine hot, then turn in the hsn in 1/8 of turn make some passes check temp, if good turn another 1/8 in make some passes check temp if good turn another 1/8 in make some passes.. if it starts to stutter or temp is over 260'f its to lean turn back 1/8... run some passes if temp is good go on to lsn.. turn in 1/8 run some passes repeat if needed..
    Wow, that is almost word for word what I was going to say... so, +1^
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ckeithnitro View Post
    yes get the engine hot, then turn in the hsn in 1/8 of turn make some passes check temp, if good turn another 1/8 in make some passes check temp if good turn another 1/8 in make some passes.. if it starts to stutter or temp is over 260'f its to lean turn back 1/8... run some passes if temp is good go on to lsn.. turn in 1/8 run some passes repeat if needed..
    Aright .. ill try .. i wish it only my setting .. i dont want to spend another 200$ in this truck '' i put for sale today i wish i can sell it .. and im gonna go brushless :P im looking to get the ThunderTiger MT4 G3 the new model coming out this month... or ill stay with my slayer spending money or maybe put a pico .26 or 28

  23. #23
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    what have did to it that was $200?? this your first nitro rc?? electric has a learning curve also...
    did u buy this slayer new??

  24. #24
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    Yea i had electric OFNA ultra lx2e ... but it my first nitro ... I put sway bar in my slayer 35$, i change 3 servo 30$ea .. i add proline bead-loc + SC tire 100$ new air filter 15$ ... new 3.3engin 147$ and more ... and no i bought it used from one of my friend that why i had to put the new engin ... he sold me for 30$ XD hahaha ... he doesnt use it and doesnt know the value he get it for some green stuff ... XD

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    i put for sale today i wish i can sell it
    Don't go to electric. It's not worth it IMO. You have to spend big $$$ to get a good brushless system, a good lipo charger, and a good set of lipos. Not to mention all of the parts you'll be breaking with that much raw power... Anyway, with electric, there's just no life to the car... Just my 0.2 cents!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    Not to mention all of the parts you'll be breaking with that much raw power...
    Oh yea your true ... i didnt think about that ... :/ but nitro gas it expensive to ... 36$ gallon at my LHS

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    36$ gallon at my LHS
    $36 a gallon? At my lhs a gallon 20% nitro O'Donnel fuel is only $20... and 30% is only $23...
    Last edited by Wolfslash16; 09-17-2012 at 10:10 PM.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    $36 a gallon? At my lhs a gallon 20% nitro O'Donnel fuel is only $20... and 30% is only $23...
    Im from canada and evry fuel come from the state so the shipping it bad !

  29. #29
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    $36 is what I pay as well for 20% Top Fuel....in Canada
    That reminds me that I have to pick up a gallon!

  30. #30
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    It snuny when iam at work and when i get home i trie to take my slayer out it start to rain .... It been a week since the last time i took my truck out so i ning ....

  31. #31
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    i know the feeling..

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ckeithnitro View Post
    yes get the engine hot, then turn in the hsn in 1/8 of turn make some passes check temp, if good turn another 1/8 in make some passes check temp if good turn another 1/8 in make some passes.. if it starts to stutter or temp is over 260'f its to lean turn back 1/8... run some passes if temp is good go on to lsn.. turn in 1/8 run some passes repeat if needed..
    I try tuning with temp but it doesnt go over 60f i did some passe and take temp and it like 58 60 so i lean more ?

  33. #33
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    body on, take the temp at the glow plug down inside the head. 60f, sounds very wrong.

    I wouldnt tune by temperature. I use temp as an indication of how the engine is running. are you getting good acceleration? are you getting good snap off the start?

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redsawacs View Post
    body on, take the temp at the glow plug down inside the head. 60f, sounds very wrong.

    I wouldnt tune by temperature. I use temp as an indication of how the engine is running. are you getting good acceleration? are you getting good snap off the start?
    take off is good but acceleration not realy good ... he have hard time getting on the 2nd gear ... but i think my temp gun was on celsius ! so it around 150f ... maybe i need to lean my HSN a bite more !

  35. #35
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    try watching a youtube video on rc nitro engine tuning it will help you aswell "squirrel's vids have every topic"

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redsawacs View Post
    body on, take the temp at the glow plug down inside the head. 60f, sounds very wrong.

    I wouldnt tune by temperature. I use temp as an indication of how the engine is running. are you getting good acceleration? are you getting good snap off the start?
    Agreed. When you get so caught up being overly concerned about the temp of the engine you will not have fun with nitro. Tune for performance and smoke but also keep your eye on the temp.
    The Super Derecho

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    and the pinch test takes about 15-20 seconds!
    15 to 20 seconds pinch is way too rich. You should be around 4 to 5.

    I actually used to tune my 3.3 backwards. Instead of tuning the HSN first and LSN second, I would tune the idle and LSN first then HSN last. Mine would always run way too lean at factory settings and overheat. So I would set everything to factory and let it idle up to temp about 215°F. At factory setting mine would also idle very high, I would close the idle gap a little at a time to lower the idle until the slide was just barely open, then start richening the LSN until I got a good steady idle. Then I would make a pass or so to clear the engine of any excess fuel and do a pinch test. When I got the pinch test around 4 to 5 seconds, then I would work on richening the HSN. My theory on this was, If you can't get it to idle and it keeps stalling at low speed how can you set the HSN first if it keeps stalling at idle?

    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16
    Don't go to electric. It's not worth it IMO. You have to spend big $$$ to get a good brushless system, a good lipo charger, and a good set of lipos. Not to mention all of the parts you'll be breaking with that much raw power... Anyway, with electric, there's just no life to the car... Just my 0.2 cents!
    If you look at the costs a good brushless system is very comparable sometimes cheaper than a brand new nitro mill and I can guarantee that the brushless system will outlast the piston and sleeve in a nitro motor. I have a VXL motor that I've beat the crap out of for 4 years now without a problem. My 3.3 lasted about 3 gallons before the sleeve wore out and that was under perfect tune slightly on the rich side. Electric is a big cost up front but in the long run is cheaper. I break more parts on my nitro than I do my electrics. I love both my electric and nitros and enjoy running both of them either way you go it all cost $$$, but I'll stop there because it's off topic and not the place for it.
    Last edited by CarGuy7a; 09-22-2012 at 05:24 PM.

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