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  1. #1
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    first RC is KBGF (WARNING: Drift content)

    Hi new guy here.
    Father and Brother-in-law both race Associated SC10 2wd and got me going on this new hobby.
    I'm more toward drifting since I used to drift full size cars so, I bought the KB just because it looked cool and I didn't like the tail lights of the Rally VXL.

    anyway, after a few weeks of ownership, the slicks are well worn in. They slip in the parking lot much better and the car has stopped spinning around. Well, that and throttle control...

    so, here are my questions and observations so far (running dual NiMH in paralell):

    -It seems to not spin out as much with the 31t pinion. If I locked the rear diff, would it make sense to switch back to the smaller gear?

    -I bought some soft slicks at the LHS and mounted stock hard slicks and soft slicks in different configurations.
    Stock slicks in front with soft slicks in the rear = flip city with the 31t pinion.
    Soft slicks in front, stock in rear = spin city with both pinions.
    Soft all around = flip city with small pinion. Major body roll with both pinions.
    Stock all around + 31t pinion = decent long drifts, not really any throttle flutter needed.
    Stock all around + small pinion = decent drifts, throttle control required.

    I have some parts on order:
    -RPM hubs and A-arms
    -pair of HPI wheels and tires (I think the X tread one)
    -set of T-drift knock offs and pair of wheels from R2
    -Jconcepts Slash body

    I plan on getting:
    -steel hollow balls
    -diff locker
    -aluminum toe control arms

    Anything else I can do to make this drift better? Mods please merge threads if needed.

  2. #2
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    Welcome to the forum. I'm going to try to answer as much of this as i can.

    The gearing is really more based on you temps and power. If you temps stay in a reasonable range and you fell you have the
    to keep the wheels spinning then you dont really have to change much.

    I found with my rally the front diff would need real thick fluid or a locker because one wheels would loose power and it would pivot on that wheel ending my drift. I didnt do much drifting tho. I ebay the stock wheels a week after getting the car and run some nice grippy hpi tires.

    you said you ordered a slash body. if you plan on running that you gonna need some parts to mount it like the standard slash body unless your gonna rig your own mounting system.

    A final suggestion is lipo batteries, They will make the car seem totally different. You'll have more power for longer with one decent lipo over 2 nimhs in parallel. I'm sure the racers in you family will agree.
    MERV VXL + Rally VXL + Stampede Xl5

  3. #3
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    Hey there,

    I did notice the temps being a bit warmer with the big gear. I do have the heat sink though, maybe get a fan for the esc later. I put 125k in the rear diff last night. I do have the body posts needed for the slash body. Good lookin out. I'll eventually go Lipo, but for now, I want to practice up on what I have. I'll test out the locked diff today. Thanks for the tips.

    here is a couple pics of my old car before I sold it.


    Last edited by Beasty Shout; 03-30-2012 at 07:18 AM.

  4. #4
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    I just tried the locked rear diff out and noticed that full throttle would send me spinning everytime with the stockers. I might try to sell my soft compond wheel set locally or keep them for local grip racing. They don't allow drifting. I guess I'm just used to full throttle drifting with the open diff. I found that the car is more controllable with partial throttle. So I played around with it a bit getting used to the slower speed drifting. I think the ESC went into thermal overload for the first time ever. ESC was hot, but not the batteries. I have to go get my toe arms now, so I'll post my preferable sweet spot. Later

  5. #5
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    first paint job. thanks to my bro-in-law

  6. #6
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    eyeballed the settings. LHS was out of toe gauges. I really like the stock slicks now. Skids real easy on concrete. Picked up 2 foot of ABS pipe and 80 wt shock oil. I'll try the abs tires first, see how much difference they make.

  7. #7
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    This thing has some battle scars on it. Might not have enough toe-in in the rear. Rear end likes to come around easy.

  8. #8
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  9. #9
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    Reamed some holes and put some abs tires. We'll see what happens.

  10. #10
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    man, this thing moves slow enough now that you can anticipate which way to countersteer even for a novice. Drifts plenty good for me now. Still have some T-drifts on the way so, I'll like to test them out in different configurations as well. I might get some GTR shocks and play with the oils too.

    Anyone who drifts ever lock front and rear diffs?

  11. #11
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    Nothing much lately. Added a couple pairs of drift spares to the collection. Cut out the remainder of the KB decals and replaced with carbon fiber. Ghetto rigged a fan for my speed control and put 80wt in the shocks. Have to get my hands on the black or tan springs. The abs tires are really nice on the smooth warehouse floor where I work. Will have to try the t-drifts out there.


  12. #12
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    added the Hot Racing sway bars. running the 1.4 in front and 1.5 in rear with 80wt and 2.9 springs. I have a pair of 4.3 springs coming so, I'll probably experiment with the sway bar thicknesses. So far, It seems to work fairly good. I haven't noticed any body roll lately.


  13. #13
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    Dude that RC car is SICK the one with the front chrome and red rears. i love the look of that. how did you get it so low and it even looks like there is chamber.

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