How to remove black [burn] look on head and piston?

[8s8]

The top of my piston and bottom of my cooling head is a little black. Any way to get rid of this? To get it looking new?

[Nitronaught]

First of all I would be more concerned as to why it is black... This means your engine was ran lean, the high temps caused the oil in the fuel to carbonize (that's the black stuff)....

You CAN soak your piston and sleeve in some WD-40, but DO NOT USE ANYTHING on the piston or head that would require any kind of rubbing of the surfaces... Then use compressed air to blow off any excess....

[8s8]

Thanks for the tip, how long do you normally soak it for? The reason this happened is because I am having an ongoing problem with my engine. I had not used my nitro rustler for about 3 years, so a couple of weeks ago I took it out and did a full rebuild of the engine. Then it fired up first time and was running, but the second time I used it I noticed smoke was coming out of the glow plug.

I'm in the process of trying to find out why this might be. Any ideas? I have on order a new glow plug and a new gasket which sits under the cooling head onto the piston. I'm hopping that will fix it.

Edit: it's a 2.5 engine.

[upbasher]

Glow plug is tight, I assume?

[8s8]

I think it was pretty tight, but I dont overly tighten in fear of damaging the head..

[mike-susieq1]

yeah dont over tighten it just snug. the smoke could have been after run oil you put maybe or wd-40 to lube the engine may have got some on the cooling head when removing the glow plug. how's the compression on your engine?

[1979chevy.]

yeah dont over tighten it just snug. the smoke could have been after run oil you put maybe or wd-40 to lube the engine may have got some on the cooling head when removing the glow plug. how's the compression on your engine?

Yes the amount of compression the engine has will give you a good idea of it's life expectancy.
I would soak the piston all night, and then you could you a plastic pan scrubber to aid you in removing the buildup.
Since the plastic is not has hard as the alloy piston it will not damage the piston.

[8s8]

yeah dont over tighten it just snug. the smoke could have been after run oil you put maybe or wd-40 to lube the engine may have got some on the cooling head when removing the glow plug. how's the compression on your engine?

Compression is really good, if I turn my fly wheel over with my finger I actually takes some doing and then I hear a fairly loud ''pop''. I'm hoping it was just the glow plug leaking. Is common for the little washer which sits under the plug to fail?

[BAD RC]

Could possibly be the Glow plug area burning off oil when it reached operating temperature.

The Village Idiot

[8s8]

I could see bubbling liquid coming from the glow plug and quite alot of smoke. I checked the tightness of the plug yesterday and it was on there tight [I could not make it tighter with the T Bar tool when applying a fiar bit of force].

I'm thinking it must be the little washer on the plug which has some how failed...Think it is probable? Or the Head gasket washer...

[Double G]

[8s8]

Thanks Double G - din't know they had a top and bottom -

[Nitronaught]

I could not recommend having a temp gauge more in times like this.....

[Skholar]

First of all I would be more concerned as to why it is black... This means your engine was ran lean, the high temps caused the oil in the fuel to carbonize (that's the black stuff)....

You CAN soak your piston and sleeve in some WD-40, but DO NOT USE ANYTHING on the piston or head that would require any kind of rubbing of the surfaces... Then use compressed air to blow off any excess....

I've been told a nice golden colour is a sign of a good tune, original metal colour is rich, dark grey/black is lean???

[1979chevy.]

I've been told a nice golden colour is a sign of a good tune, original metal colour is rich, dark grey/black is lean???

You're correct, a golden/copper color is fine, when it starts getting dark brown and black you have a lean issue.

[1979chevy.]

I could see bubbling liquid coming from the glow plug and quite alot of smoke. I checked the tightness of the plug yesterday and it was on there tight [I could not make it tighter with the T Bar tool when applying a fiar bit of force].

I'm thinking it must be the little washer on the plug which has some how failed...Think it is probable? Or the Head gasket washer...

It sounds like the washer, I've had the same thing happen, except get this - the glow plug socket/hole in the cooling was filling up with fuel and overflowing lol.

[8s8]

Well the saga continues. I have done a rebuild again and a clean. I replaced the glowplug and washer and I have also replaced the shim which sits ontop the piston/under the cooling head.

After a few minutes of running its STILL smoking out the glowplug. Plug was in tight and head was also tight. Carb settings are almost at break in. HSN is about 4 turns out from closed [maybe 3.8]. The LSN is Flush and it has a good sounding Idle.

Anyone have any ideas what else it might be?
Thanks

[Nitronaught]

Well the saga continues. I have done a rebuild again and a clean. I replaced the glowplug and washer and I have also replaced the shim which sits ontop the piston/under the cooling head.

After a few minutes of running its STILL smoking out the glowplug. Plug was in tight and head was also tight. Carb settings are almost at break in. HSN is about 4 turns out from closed [maybe 3.8]. The LSN is Flush and it has a good sounding Idle.

Anyone have any ideas what else it might be?
Thanks

Follow this tuning guide and tune that LSN. Tune only with 1/2 a tank and get a temp gauge... http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread....&goto=newpost

[spudler_t]

Has anyone used Berryman Chem-Dip Parts Cleaner with the Included Dip Basket? I have used this alot on Full size Aluminum carbs, along with Aluminum Distributor casings with Bronze/copper Bushings and have not had any issues, I know you can alow to soak overnight etc, to remove Carbon, Varnish , Sludge, grease etc. I even think is safe for plastic although I am sure you need to keep rubber orings etc away from the chemicals.
I was thinking that Greasy parts and Items that get that black Goo from dust/water/grease and heat combining would really benefit from somethuing like this that does is not overly aggresive and does not require any scrubbing of any type.
I know it worked fine with no ill effects on the Carter composite float bowls although I have not tested on every type of plastuc and I think the composite float bowls/venturi may be made from a Nylon substance.

[spudler_t]

This is the chemical Makeup, for those who know what the Traxxas Products are allergic or have severe reactions to
2-(2-Butoxyethoxy) ethanol <10%
2-Butoxyethanol <10%
Ethoxylated Alkyl Amines 1-5%
Heterocyclic and Aliphatic Amines 15-20%
I personally love the stuff and it has worked wonders for Items I have cleaned, plus it has Rust/Corrosion Inhibitors
it is called Berryman Chem-Dip
I dont think I can add a link without breaking rules but take the brand and add products and the dotcom if ya want to read about the stuff.

[Nitronaught]

Has anyone used Berryman Chem-Dip Parts Cleaner with the Included Dip Basket? I have used this alot on Full size Aluminum carbs, along with Aluminum Distributor casings with Bronze/copper Bushings and have not had any issues, I know you can alow to soak overnight etc, to remove Carbon, Varnish , Sludge, grease etc. I even think is safe for plastic although I am sure you need to keep rubber orings etc away from the chemicals.
I was thinking that Greasy parts and Items that get that black Goo from dust/water/grease and heat combining would really benefit from somethuing like this that does is not overly aggresive and does not require any scrubbing of any type.
I know it worked fine with no ill effects on the Carter composite float bowls although I have not tested on every type of plastuc and I think the composite float bowls/venturi may be made from a Nylon substance.

Having some carbon on the top of your piston is not that much to worry about, in fact on 4 strokes it's a welcomed site to some degree.....

Honestly, an overnight soaking in WD-40 or Marvel mystery oil will break down the loose carbon really well... The rest just leave alone......

Sometimes it's better not to overthink these things...

[spudler_t]

I am glad you posted Marvel Mystery Oil, Now I do not have to ask about that, I used to use 3-1 oil and recently bought a huge container of Marvel and I like it alot better for my Misc oiling things that do not need a Aerosol spray so I was going to ask if I could use that with the Nitro Engine etc.(as a after run Lube/Protector and for misc other Things.
What do you use in the 2 Speed with reverse Trannys and the 2 Speed forward only Trannys BTW I have not seen anything in teh manuals about it and want to make sure they are Lubed Properly.

[johnzillia54]

I've heard of light grit steel wool and the blow it off and clean it to make sure there is not any steel wool or anything?????

[Redsawacs]

my slayer was doing the same thing - found a crack in the carburetor housing. Replaced and rebuilt carb - WHAMMY!!! Tip Top!

[Nitronaught]

I am glad you posted Marvel Mystery Oil, Now I do not have to ask about that, I used to use 3-1 oil and recently bought a huge container of Marvel and I like it alot better for my Misc oiling things that do not need a Aerosol spray so I was going to ask if I could use that with the Nitro Engine etc.(as a after run Lube/Protector and for misc other Things.
What do you use in the 2 Speed with reverse Trannys and the 2 Speed forward only Trannys BTW I have not seen anything in teh manuals about it and want to make sure they are Lubed Properly.

You don't need to lubricate the tranny gears, the plastic/nylon gears are self lubricating according to Traxxas.... Just make sure there's no debris...
I use Marvel Mystery Oil as an after run oil and for engine assembly lube as well as to clean my bearings... I have had no issues with seals, rubber or anything else...