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  1. #41
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    Feel I now have a rear steering system that the rear of the truck will have to be tore off for it to fail.
    Going to try and explain, with pics of what I did. The servo is not on but will be attached the same way as Post #29 with a lot less screws in the whole works.
    Material used- 1-Traxxas Part #5344 metal tube out of the middle shortened appox.1/16"
    1-Traxxas Part #5337 Skid Plate Set Front, used rear plate and cut out the part where the screw holds the servo saver.
    1-Traxxas Part #3931 Flat Head Machine Screw 3x8mm
    1- Traxxas Part #5343X, Only Hot Racing's alum. equal with both arms cut off and center rounded off.
    1-1/4" Solid tubing drilled threw and tapped for 3mm screw. (sorry forgot to measure length)
    1-Traxxas #5314 Rear Body mount with 1/4" hole drilled (forgot to measure depth)
    1- Hot Racing Servo Saver
    1-2 3/4" x 1 3/4" x 3/8" Plexiglas. Drilled 1/4" dia. threw and counter sunk approx. 3/16" to accommodate The Traxxas Part # 5343X replacement. this part is also not threaded.

    Here are the parts laid out before assembly.


    Front side of body mount showing location of 3 x 8 mm flat head machine screw


    Back side of body mount showing location of alum. tubing.


    Partially assembled.


    Another view of partial assembly


    continued next post.

  2. #42
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    Front view of unit assembled


    Bottom view of unit assembled


    Back view


    Cut outs towards the top are where the Alum supports for the rear bumper will go.

    When I get it all put together, by removing the 3 screws that hold the Body Mount to the Chassis, unplugging the Servo and lights on the rear bumper and it will all come off.
    Last edited by Edstoys; 09-12-2012 at 02:24 PM.

  3. #43
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    Great! I love how your rear steer has evolved. I feel you've got a solid, well integrated unit there
    I love a car with plenty of custom parts, but I especially like the lack of a lot of different "one off" pieces. Years ago I had access to a machine shop run by folks who could make pretty much anything. I'm now quite limited in my shop equipment

    Readily available quality parts that require minimal modification is right up my alley. With that in mind, I'm a little foggy on the numbers for the pretty blue anodized and bright aluminum parts in the lower right of your parts list picture. Would you please clarify that for me??

    Thanks in advance, I also apologize if I just missed them
    The Kid

    14.4 Dewalt & Misc. el-cheapo mods

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Hot Racing Servo Saver
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  5. #45
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    Yep Jimmie got the Hot Racing Servo Saver as well as the little shiny peaces are whats left of Hot racing steering parts.
    The one thing I tried to do with this build is do it so anyone can do it. My tools where a dremel, hack saw, files and drill press, bits besides drill bits where all Dremel bits.
    Even the Alum sold tube, was drilled by hand and threaded by hand using a screw and lots of oil, with lots of patience and one turn at a time. Had to use my drill press to make sure hole was straight and running out of my Plexiglas and when its gone its gone.
    Oh forgot to mention that the screw in front is what I help support the alum rod with as well as it sucked the rod into place, pressed in as far as possible by pushing against a table lip and then used a long enough screw to pull in as far as the hole was drilled then replaced the screw with the present screw.
    Got my mudslingers today and some other goodies, so going to take a break from the rear steer and mount the tires


    Quote Originally Posted by Mayberry Kid View Post
    Great! I love how your rear steer has evolved. I feel you've got a solid, well integrated unit there
    I love a car with plenty of custom parts, but I especially like the lack of a lot of different "one off" pieces. Years ago I had access to a machine shop run by folks who could make pretty much anything. I'm now quite limited in my shop equipment

    Readily available quality parts that require minimal modification is right up my alley. With that in mind, I'm a little foggy on the numbers for the pretty blue anodized and bright aluminum parts in the lower right of your parts list picture. Would you please clarify that for me??

    Thanks in advance, I also apologize if I just missed them
    Last edited by Edstoys; 09-12-2012 at 05:09 PM.

  6. #46
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    Finally its done and done to my satisfaction LOL.
    Need some miner adjustments to the bumper so it sits dead level other than that here are some pics of my rear steering configuration. Remove the 3 screws that hold the body support to the chassis, unplug the servo and lights & it all comes off. Servo can also be removed separately if need be.

    First two are with body in place.




    Body removed.




    Know this has been a long drawn out affair to get it where I have a stable and solid rear steering system, but hopefully by posting and showing all that I went threw to get tot he final step it will give others ideas or help them build their own rear steering system. Enjoy, and if questions will do my best to reply.
    Now to get my new tires mounted (Mud Slingers) and on to configuring how to deal with putting the punk computer on the truck as well as a BEC and Jimmies old radio which is now mine. So still a lot of work to do on my conversion. Next big problem is where am I going to mount the BEC and the Punk Computer, But that is for later.

  7. #47
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    I love this, it's so clean!! Looks so stock/official, I've never wanted to do this more than right now. I NEED TO STOP SPENDING MONEY ON THIS THING!

  8. #48
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    WOW! Thanks Krall, and that means a lot
    Hmm as far as Spending $$$$$ on these things...Don't know quite what to tell you except might have to sell it to stop spending on it
    Man are the Mud Slingers are a lot taller than the trenchers, just got them on the rear right now, but man no problems climbing stairs now LOL ! Well running two 7980's lights no longer work, or should say they work until I turn then they cut off due to losing power supply from the Rx. So need to get the BEC wired up, just trying to decide if I need two or just one. With the 7 channel switch for the lights, and two fans, Punk Computer, an the new radio system (Jimmies first built radio) know I need one but not sure about two.

  9. #49
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    With all the stuff now added my truck is starting to get a lot heavier, and contemplating a new power system. About got everything figured out and almost ready to start the new build with my new radio system (Jimmie's radio).
    So besides keeping my ESC and getting a 14.4v DeWalt wondering what other might think of the Tekin TT2101 system which is a FX-R ESC + 55T Pro Motor, or other systems. Right now big problem I have with the DeWalt is you can not get it with a single motor mount.
    Also picking up a brazing system this next week so might try my hand at the tube frame as well, which will add more weight
    Thanks ahead of time and have read a lot of the threads on power systems, but wanting personal opinions now

  10. #50
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    that looks so clean. do us all a favor and start getting it scratched up

    and be careful getting into brazing/cage building, it's pretty addictive. I'm already trying to plan out my next cage.

  11. #51
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edstoys View Post
    With all the stuff now added my truck is starting to get a lot heavier, and contemplating a new power system. About got everything figured out and almost ready to start the new build with my new radio system (Jimmie's radio).
    So besides keeping my ESC and getting a 14.4v DeWalt wondering what other might think of the Tekin TT2101 system which is a FX-R ESC + 55T Pro Motor, or other systems. Right now big problem I have with the DeWalt is you can not get it with a single motor mount.
    Also picking up a brazing system this next week so might try my hand at the tube frame as well, which will add more weight
    Thanks ahead of time and have read a lot of the threads on power systems, but wanting personal opinions now
    A DeWALT will bolt to the stock motor mount with some work.
    There is no need to buy any motor mount.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  12. #52
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    Jimmie thanks did not know that

    Rizzo, that is my pretty body and besides that truck spends more time being worked on that being run One reason I hooked up the BEC and all so I could run it threw a set of batteries (like I did this morning) to make sure Rear steering would stay together, which it did.

  13. #53
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Modding the stock mount is pretty easy
    Hogged out the mount holes a bit on the mount.
    Depending on pinion used a hi tec spacer plate needs to be made.Lol
    OR do this for about 50 cents..and some longer bolts.same on the other side.




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  14. #54
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    I was worried about how my new motor was going to fit when I receive it, this is such a "duh" fix! Thanks for sharing =)

  15. #55
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    Great info on the DeWalt and agree on the DUH fix LOL 3 washers
    NO comments on any other system or the Tekin? Some body has to be running something other than a DeWalt. Come on need some pros and cons.

  16. #56
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    Getting a new system tomorrow, it's basically a sensored 150A esc with a 2100kv sensored brushless motor... I'll be able to say more tomorrow! At least I had BETTER get it by tomorrow =D

  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    I have a tekin rx8 that I ran a sensored 2000kv on.fun yes, very much so.
    Harder on parts ,yes very much so.
    I just can't stay out of the throttle.
    I killed my sensored motor,again not sure how exactly.
    Back to the dewalt,winter is coming anyways.two far east motors
    Dead. Maybe bite the bullet and get a tekin motor


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  18. #58
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    Why I was asking about the Tekin system I mentioned, less than 150 for motor and esc., just trying to find out some everyday pros or cons on the system. Just not sure if their Crawler system would handle these heavy trucks or need to be looking more at the monster truck systems, then again power=$$$ due to broken parts LOL
    Ya if just the motor which one, like they don't have very many choices ...

    Krallopian hope you new system comes in Monday if nothing else for your own sanity

  19. #59
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    This is a PROTOTYPE or just seeing if it would work. Besides plastic being the base, might go to Alum. if this breaks wounding if anyone sees any potential problems.
    What I am doing is using the motor fan as a base. Jimmie sent a monster 8amp BEC with his radio so trying to figure a way to mount that as well. SO combined the motor fan with the ESC fan and mounted the BEC between the two, also plugged both fans in and it does create quite a bit of air movement sitting still.
    Used a 3 mm screw and cut the head off, screwed in half way in the alum threaded spacer, and threaded that threw the ESC into the frame, then a 3mm screw is run threw the fan base (under the fan, and yes it clears the fan blades) into the alum. spacer. Other side of the ESC has the normal anchor screw.

    Ignore the fan laying in the battery compartment that is the present ESC fan.


    Looking from front of truck


    From above


    Looking from rear of truck


    Thoughts, ideas, potential problems...... Remember this is just a lay out or prototype, design in progress.
    Last edited by Edstoys; 09-16-2012 at 10:13 PM.

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edstoys View Post
    Why I was asking about the Tekin system I mentioned, less than 150 for motor and esc., just trying to find out some everyday pros or cons on the system. Just not sure if their Crawler system would handle these heavy trucks or need to be looking more at the monster truck systems, then again power=$$$ due to broken parts LOL
    Ya if just the motor which one, like they don't have very many choices ...

    Krallopian hope you new system comes in Monday if nothing else for your own sanity
    I would look to 1/8 systems,it's a big heavy truck.brushless requires some upgrading of key bearings I believe.
    Inner and outer pinion bearings in the diff helped a fair bit. I run in the wet half the year usually,so I went with sealed ceramic boca bearings for inner and outer wheel bearings as well.
    So for 12 or so bearings shipped was $60 and those were not the top of the line ones.here wanna see how serious
    It can get.i suggest sitting down..
    http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric



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  21. #61
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    Looks legit to me. I know you said it was a prototype but be sure to get rid of the sticker on the can of the Titan for max efficiency.

    Will your heatsink fit when/if you change motor? Might not want to spend too much time finalizing your design till you have all your parts. (then again tinkering and redoing things until you get it right is part of the hobby)

    I'm a fan endorser, my Summit rarely moves fast enough to create its own air flow over electronics. With all that being said it's coming along quite nicely.


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  22. #62
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    AWESOME! Been following all this cool stuff and I'm intrigued by it all. You guys all seem to have an amazing understanding of how this stuff works, keep up the good work !

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamann View Post
    I would look to 1/8 systems,it's a big heavy truck.brushless requires some upgrading of key bearings I believe.
    Inner and outer pinion bearings in the diff helped a fair bit. I run in the wet half the year usually,so I went with sealed ceramic boca bearings for inner and outer wheel bearings as well.
    So for 12 or so bearings shipped was $60 and those were not the top of the line ones.here wanna see how serious
    It can get.i suggest sitting down..
    http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric



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    Don't have to look that is probably the almost 600 dollar set. For got I guess I already have a full set of sealed Boca green seal bearings in the truck. If remembered right 189 bucks for the set I got. Agree on getting the best you can get but myself think that is a little out of line, for a set of bearings. Right now mine is not getting pounded that hard due to me still having back issues.

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by happymachinist View Post
    Looks legit to me. I know you said it was a prototype but be sure to get rid of the sticker on the can of the Titan for max efficiency.

    Will your heatsink fit when/if you change motor? Might not want to spend too much time finalizing your design till you have all your parts. (then again tinkering and redoing things until you get it right is part of the hobby)

    I'm a fan endorser, my Summit rarely moves fast enough to create its own air flow over electronics. With all that being said it's coming along quite nicely.


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    Did not think of if motor is changed,& sticker removal thanks for the heads up HM Mine does not move all that fast either so why the fan configuration the way it is. Only question I have with it is, might have to try and build some kind of skirt down towards the ESC to pull more direct heat off.
    Have noticed with the weight of my rig now things are getting a little warm, if short bursts of speed are done, with everything unlocked of course

    Wish I could use the CC BEC but this one puts out one more Watt than the CC does.

    Rate I'm going might just build a little tag a long trailer and put all my extra electronics on it, running out of room on the truck and really do not like this set up due to the height and moving the center of gravity up.
    Last edited by Edstoys; 09-17-2012 at 12:27 PM.

  25. #65
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edstoys View Post
    Don't have to look that is probably the almost 600 dollar set. For got I guess I already have a full set of sealed Boca green seal bearings in the truck. If remembered right 189 bucks for the set I got. Agree on getting the best you can get but myself think that is a little out of line, for a set of bearings. Right now mine is not getting pounded that hard due to me still having back issues.
    Those bearings are more than out of line....insanity.but the sealed bearings work very well.had them in for a long time.no issues.i went through a bunch of stock wheel bearings,I cleaned and repacked them.still kept killing them
    Brushless power is hard on pinion bearings.


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  26. #66
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    Will Tekin 1/8 is kinda out, as it says keep it away from water. So how much water it can take have no idea but with that statement would gather not much.

    Back to looking

  27. #67
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    It's there to prevent, "well you didn't tell me NOT to run it in water!!"

    They all come with comformal coatings, and the issue is that most people don't clean their equipment. After a couple light, "splashes" minerals and such build up and eventually make everything short out. You could run the equipment in pure distilled water and it would be fine! Good luck finding a distilled water pond though haha.

  28. #68
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    You can build a skirt (I am pondering that for mine as well) but I would switch the fan around and blow air acrossed the heatsink kinda like air moving past it when you drive.

    I know heat rises but I think you might get a little more cooling if air was blown past rather than hot air sucked off.

    (from your description it sounds like you are drawing hot air away?)


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  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by happymachinist View Post
    You can build a skirt (I am pondering that for mine as well) but I would switch the fan around and blow air acrossed the heatsink kinda like air moving past it when you drive.

    I know heat rises but I think you might get a little more cooling if air was blown past rather than hot air sucked off.

    (from your description it sounds like you are drawing hot air away?)


    Sent from my iPhone using autocorrect

    Sounds to me you are kinda taking of something like a blower, but understanding what you mean. Instead of sucking (witch the fans do in stock configuration) the air away you are talking about blowing it away.

  30. #70
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Just a crazy thought.... The xo one has a duct to force air over the motor.so what about pulling air from outside the shell so to speak.i know it's not going fast but maybe the air outside the shell will be a bit cooler.like I said just a crazy random thought that popped into my head


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  31. #71
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    Take the end of a vacuum tube, one of those thin ones, and aim that at the car!


  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edstoys View Post
    Sounds to me you are kinda taking of something like a blower, but understanding what you mean. Instead of sucking (witch the fans do in stock configuration) the air away you are talking about blowing it away.
    Yeah, the fan on the heatsink is real close to it so sucking the hot air off will work fine.

    I just thought you might get better results from the fan over the esc if you flipped it so it would blow rather than suck because it's so far away. I run that configuration on mine and it works pretty good.

    Not saying either is right or wrong just thought it might be an easy test to try when you get stuck on some other part of the build or are waiting on parts.




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  33. #73
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    A common misconception with cooling is that blowing on to the fins will somehow blow the heat back in to the fins. Wrong.

    Blowing on the fins, pushes cool air on the fins, cooling them down, allowing for them to hold even MORE heat from the source, thus cooling the source even MORE than normal. Sucking heat from them is no where near as efficient as blowing cold air on the fins.

    Look at computer setups, CPU, heatink, fan blowing ON the fins. It works best.

  34. #74
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    Think of it as a household box fan if you stand behind it you can't feel much air sucking past untill you are up close and personal but if you stand in front of it you can feel the wind a good bit away acrossed the room if it's a big fan on high.


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  35. #75
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    Well I got a shock ! not electrically just literally. Went threw the trouble to flip one fan thinking ok, if one is sucking air off the motor and the other one is blowing air down it should create quite a air exchange so flipping the one over the ESC.
    Guess what the Integy fan BLOW air. Put power to it after flipping it and it was blowing air away from the ESC.
    So now to see if I can make some kind of shroud to increase the CFM closer to the ESC but don't think I have enough height to do that. Will start off making a paper pattern and see if its worth the effort.
    OH HM I was a Industrial Designer for 15 yrs, mostly piping such as Oil refineries, and Food stuff. So have some what of a mechanical understanding.

  36. #76
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    I can't think of a fan that doesn't blow air? :P

    The fan DIRECTION is almost always marked on the side of the fan with arrows - showing rotation direction and wind direction:


  37. #77
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    Well SUPPOSED to get the last of some parts in Wens. according to shipping, So started the official rebuild or should say "Lets Tare Down"



    Did not like my wiring mess at all so going to try and do something about that along with my New Radio system(Jimmies old system w/ two Rx) well be going in as well.

    Off the wall question has anyone seen Kershaw's Alum Summit Chassis or know of anyone that has used one.
    Looks interesting. http://kershawdesigns.com/Summit-Chassis.htm

  38. #78
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    Several posts in the erevo section with bad experiences with kershaw aluminum chassis, most says that the chassis bends too easily ( not great grade aluminum) others points out weak spots. Search the erevo boards there were two long builds envolving them with details ( including one by the famous Mr crash) they both ended up selling the trucks followed by negative reviews.
    MAN, Use Common Sense
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  39. #79
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    Thanks Noir; that's all I needed to know. Saw another one someone makes but can't think of it right now, but guess no need in adding more weight.
    Got one of my packages an the other was miss sent that's about the 5th time that has happened this yr, and only started when they shut down our shorting facility.... postal service.
    Last edited by Edstoys; 09-19-2012 at 11:34 AM.

  40. #80
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    Wiring on this new build is starting to drive me nuts, or should say trying to get 5lbs of stuff in a 1lb box is nuts.
    Whats the smallest wire that could be used off the servo's or for that matter anywhere besides between the motor and ESC.
    Right now using some pretty stiff guess about 22-23 ga that came out of the controls of a not work anymore automatic coffee maker. Yep have a tendency to take things apart a that quite and keep what I think might be usable, even if I don't know how or where.

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