MITCH316 Summit build edition

[MITCH316]

I've have been browsing the Summit forums for a few months now and have decided to build my version of a Summit. A lot of the parts come from the spares I have accumulated from my eRevo.

I plan to keep my build primly stock...just a few changes from what I want from my truck.

I just like to thank those who gave me advice over the past weeks about the various questions I had on the Summit. I am sure there will be a good few questions to come...

[MITCH316]

I decided to Rit Dye my chassis, LT rockers and rims.



I chose scarlet red for this build as I wanted something totally different from my other trucks. This is the end result of the dying process and I am very happy with how it turned out...It looks a lot better than what I had imagined



I thought I would share this with you for anyone that is interested in dying their parts. Here is a comparison of stock chassis compared to a black and scarlet red rit dyed chassis. I like the black and after this build have become a big fan of scarlet red

[MITCH316]

At the time when I became interested in building a Summit, which was a few months back...I went and bought a bunch of parts only to shelve the project until now.

I tried to buy 2 complete diffs but was in no luck, I could only find one...the other I bought in pieces to build myself (IMO, very expensive way of doing it)

I thought I would post this here for anyone who hasn't seen a diff in pieces or just wanting to service their diffs. I am not going to go into to much detail over building a diff. Building diffs is nothing new to me as I have had loads of experience from my eRevo.

In the pic below you can see one complete diff and the other ready to be built. I opened up the complete diff to get an understanding of how this diff went back together.



I then assembled the the spider gears into the diff cup and filled with 100k diff lube. Basically I filled until flush with the top of the cup; and also tried to get rid of as much of the air bubbles as I possibly could.



Once this was complete I fitted the ring gear and tightened leaving one screw out.



The reason for this was so that when the ring gear pulled up tight on the diff cup it allowed excess lube to escape through the screw hole.



I then wiped clean and installed the last screw and fitted the rest of the gears and bearings into the diff case. I then greased the ring gear and T lock using Mobil 1 red grease...I have had a lot of success with this grease in my eRevo diff builds.



I then closed up the diff...there was no binding of the pinion and ring gear and felt no shimming was necessary. It might require some shimming after the gears have been run in.

[MITCH316]

This Is as far I managed to get today...I am still waiting on a couple of parts to arrive. I will complete this build over the next few weeks and update my post as I go along

[bajaboy501]

Good clean build. Like the color of your chassis.

[O.G.]

I also like the color. I didn't know you could get a chassis that good looking with dye.

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[Mayberry Kid]

Looking good, I also like the color! I'll be following this build too

I like the tips on your diff assembly as well, keep the tips coming!

[Chevy_maxx]

Love that color! Ill also b following!

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[krallopian]

Awesome work! Without reading anything first I could tell you were a serious tinkerer just based on that chassis lift you have!

That colour worked incredibly well, very nice to see something so different work so well!

[MITCH316]

Good clean build. Like the color of your chassis.

I also like the color. I didn't know you could get a chassis that good looking with dye.

Looking good, I also like the color! I'll be following this build too

Love that color! Ill also b following!

Thank you ...I didn't think it would come out as well as it did when it was in the dye bath. It cam out a lot better than I anticipated.

A closer look at the rims toady I've decided to give them another dose in the dye bath...I feel they could be slightly darker than what they are now.

I like the tips on your diff assembly as well, keep the tips coming!

Thanks mate.

[MITCH316]

Today I had a go at installing the summit axles. All went well until I installed the front axles. On rotating the axles it felt like the diff kept binding badly...this was the diff I built myself.

So, took the diff out to examine and what do you know...100% perfect. I installed back in the bulkhead, connected the axles and the problem was back. After closer examination and trying to get my head around the problem I noticed that the axle screws that connect to the diff were to long and catching on the bulk head.

Right side


Left side


To fix the problem I used a belt sander and sanded 1mm off each axle screw and then chamfered the sharp edge.



It is a perfect fit now and the axle rotation is smooth

[MITCH316]

I had a spare set of HPP hex adapters lying around from my eRevo spares, so I thought I would use them for this build.

I personally think that these are one of the best hex adapters on the market. From my experience with the eRevo, they have totally eliminated my wheel slop.

These are the HPP hex adapters ready to be installed, again I am not going to go into to much details of the installation of the adapters.



To install I put a drop of blue thread lock on the end of the thread on the drive axle



I then put a bead of grease on the locking nut that holds the hex adapter in place. This is to allow for an easy fit to the hex adapter and axle shaft



This is it all fitted together just leaving the locking nut to be fully tightened



The end result, all the hex adapters fitted to the drive shafts

[MITCH316]

I found with my experience that the stock plastic pivot ball caps have a nasty habit of working themselves loose.

These are the Integy aluminium pivot ball caps with an o-ring fitted in the in the threaded area. I found these to be a snug fit and have never had one work itself loose.



To install I smeared a bead of grease around the threaded area and o-ring. It makes it easy to screw in to the axle carrier (knuckle) and a nice smooth fit



After I had installed all the pivot ball caps into the axle carriers, I took the stock pivot ball cap boot and pushed into the cap ends. Again it is a very nice snug fit

[warnerhouse]

Awesome build. I have had trouble keeping my pivotball boots staying in there places. Seems like the plastic retaining rings wont hold. Its always the bottom ones that give me the trouble. I have thought aboout gluing them, but I still want to be able to replace them later on. Would you have any sugestions? I do have the pushrods in the middle hole on the lower A-arm, and a 1/4 inch of preload on the double yellow springs. I too was wondering if there was too much angle which kept pulling out the boot.

[MITCH316]

Awesome build. I have had trouble keeping my pivotball boots staying in there places. Seems like the plastic retaining rings wont hold. Its always the bottom ones that give me the trouble. I have thought aboout gluing them, but I still want to be able to replace them later on. Would you have any sugestions? I do have the pushrods in the middle hole on the lower A-arm, and a 1/4 inch of preload on the double yellow springs. I too was wondering if there was too much angle which kept pulling out the boot.

I sent you a PM mate.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

awesome build craig i like that HPP hexes talking about wobble free that right there is an easy fix. i was very skiptecal about that integy aluminum pivot ball caps but if its holding up (snug fit) for you then i might consider buying it now.

[MITCH316]

awesome build craig i like that HPP hexes talking about wobble free that right there is an easy fix. i was very skiptecal about that integy aluminum pivot ball caps but if its holding up (snug fit) for you then i might consider buying it now.

Thanks mate...those HPP hex adapters are pricey but well worth it (IMO). They have worked great for me, I can't imagine running my trucks with out them, especially the eRevo. One thing that grates me is wheel wobble when trying to fine tune your truck.

The integy pivot ball caps work like a charm...beware, there are 2 types. I would recommend these ones as they have a beefier o-ring. Here is the part # if you are interested...T3205SILVER

[humayrayakongkinaon]

i didnt even know they have two type, i just see them as the same, LOL. thanks for that mate.

[happymachinist]

I second the Mobil1 grease on the ring and pinion. I personally use XHP 222 a close cousin to the red....wich in your case fits better considering the chassis and rims I look forward to the remainder of the build. Keep up the good work.


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[87 GN]

have you looked at these looks like the O'ring is larger? idk
http://www.ebay.com/itm/iNTEGY-Pivot...item1e6d1c8304

could they have made a part worth haveing?? LOL j/k kind of... truck is looking good btw...

[MITCH316]

have you looked at these looks like the O'ring is larger? idk

could they have made a part worth haveing?? LOL j/k kind of... truck is looking good btw...

Cheers mate...Those are the ones, my mate bought the other version (the blue ones). They have a thinner o-ring and the o-rings keep breaking. I paid the extra $'s for the silver with the thicker o-ring and have never looked back.

These have come off my eRevo which I have really pushed to the limits and they have always stayed in place. They are the only INTEGY parts I own (LOL).

[MITCH316]

I haven't done much more on my build...had a go a dyeing my rims again as I was not to happy with the first session I had.

I am really happy how these turned out, it almost has a rusty look to it



My build will continue in a couple weeks...I'm still waiting on my motor and a few odds and ends to arrive.

[happymachinist]

Wheels look good man. I know how waiting for parts go. Quite a long wait to get your parts down there?


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[MITCH316]

Wheels look good man. I know how waiting for parts go. Quite a long wait to get your parts down there?

Thanks mate ...I am wating very patiently!

[MITCH316]

One thing that drove me crazy with my eRevo was the ammount of slop the diff had in the bulkhead. I noticed a similar issue with the Summit bulkheads.

I was going through my build last night and when I moved the drive shafts up an down, there it was, the slop. It wasn't as bad as the eRevo but it is something that will annoy me. I also think it was one of the main reasons I was stripping ring gears in the eRevo all the time.

I thought if I could fill the gap in the bulkheads to keep the diff snug and in place I would get more life out of my diff gears.

My solution, hot glue...the beauty with this is it is not permanent and very easy to remove. Hot glue sticks are fairly cheap too.



The end result...the bulkhead took a whole glue stick. I am very happy with this and the way it is now, as I have eliminated all the slop the diff had in the bulkhead



I will need to test this and see how it works...I am confident that this is a good solution. What is nice about this glue is that it dries like a soft rubber (almost like silicone); and will have good shock absorbing properties.

[rizz0d]

interesting mod with the hot glue, whatever works man

[MITCH316]

interesting mod with the hot glue, whatever works man

Thanks mate...I agree, whatever works

[MITCH316]

I've decided to run my pinion the opposite way around with the DeWalt motor; as I felt the shaft length was too short for the pinion to be the correct way around.

I have seen some guys on their build threads making a spacer to realign the pinion and spur gear. This is my effort at making a spacer with the tools and materials I had on hand.

I found a scrap bit of aluminium checker plate 5mmm thick in the waste bin at work. The tools I used to make my spacer was a drill press, grinder and belt sander.

Scrap 5mm thick aluminium checker plate


I marked the shape I wanted with permanent marker and then proceeded to hack saw around the pattern to reduce the amount of grinding needed.

Once I was happy with the shape I used the drill press and drilled the centre hole to 15mm and the motor mounting holes to 5.5mm.

I then grinded roughly into the shape I wanted and then began to do my final shaping and smoothing with the belt sander.



I then put four chamfers on one side of the spacer to accommodate the motor can clips. I wasn't worried about been to accurate as long as the spacer does its job.



I then grabbed the spacer between my thumb and index finger and let run like a wheel to smooth off and try make as concentric as practically possible.



I then smoothed off the holes I drilled with sandpaper and countersunk both sides...it probably wasn't necessary but I was bored at work.



Here is the end result...After removing the tread pattern my spacer is now 4.4mm thick. I am yet to test and see if this is adequate spacing to align the pinion and spur gear. The motor mount still needs to be modified to accommodate the DeWalt bolt pattern.



Since this was the thickest material I could find at work, I came up with a solution to increase the thickness of the spacer if this was too thin. I cut 1.5mm thick gasket to suit...temp rating for the gasket is over a 100°C.



Here is a photo to show you what I started out with and the finished product. All in all it took me a couple hours to make with the tools i used.

[krallopian]

Pretty awesome! I love fabricating parts, and you certainly did a great job! =)

[Mayberry Kid]

Nice I did something very similar with a rather thick fender washer I found at work !! Fabbing is fun...

[MITCH316]

Pretty awesome! I love fabricating parts, and you certainly did a great job! =)

Nice I did something very similar with a rather thick fender washer I found at work !! Fabbing is fun...

Thanks guys, I appreciate it...and the comments you leave

[Mugs]

I see this build is progressing nicely too. Can't wait to see it and the others finally up and running. Keep up the informative posts!

[MITCH316]

This is a continuation from post #28. I fitted my spacer and gasket up last night to see the fit...I was rather surprised to see how well I gauged it. Here the motor mount hasn't been modified yet.



This morning at work I had a go at trying to mod the motor mount to accommodate the DeWalt bolt hole pattern. As you can see I slotted my hole diagonal and not horizontal. I felt it left more meat on the outer hole of the motor mount as opposed to slotting horizontal.



I assembled together and was not happy with the BHC screw sticking out like it did and also felt that because the original holes were counter sunk the BHC screw wasn't sitting on enough material. To be honest, I couldn't be bothered trying to organise 2 countersunk screws for the motor mount either.



I tried to counter bore the mounting holes instead. I took an old 7mm drill bit and grinded the point flat. I then tried to shape the holes the best I could. I went approximately 1mm deep as the motor mount is not very thick.



I don't know if this will make a difference but I had a few 5mm o-rings lying around. I put 2 on the shaft for the pinion.



I then fitted the pinion so it was a nice snug fit. I will check the spacing correctly once it is all assembled together and fine tune if necessary.



As you can see the counter boring made a significant difference and is fastened to a lot more material than previous.



I don't think these will pose a problem for the spur gear.



It was another happy and successful day at modding

[jamann]

Very nice...clean and the o rings
Are a interesting idea,may help keep crud out longer.


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[happymachinist]

I too like the o-rings. BRILLIANT! Dirt is bad news when it gets where it's not supposed to be!


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[MITCH316]

Very nice...clean and the o rings
Are a interesting idea,may help keep crud out longer.

I too like the o-rings. BRILLIANT! Dirt is bad news when it gets where it's not supposed to be!

Thanks...I was thinking about those o-rings last night, thought I would give it a try and see how we go

[MITCH316]

I've decided to use the Traxxas centre CVD #5650R on this build...I've had great success with it on my eRevo.

I thought I would post this fot anyone who has never seen the steel CVD before



And here installed on my truck. The installation was clean and easy



My build is coming togeher slowly...need to figure out the T-Link installation next.

[MITCH316]

Not much to say here...I have read about rear squat been a problem with the summit and the stock springs (double yellow).

I am replacing my double yellow with double orange so that I will have double orange front and rear.



These springs are a lot stiffer and I think are big improvement from the double yellow.

I will give some feedback on these springs once I have put my truck through its paces

[MITCH316]

Here is a photo of my progress so far



I used the old servos from my eRevo on this build, and after messing around for a few hours trying to align my servos and stop them from fighting each other, I finally blew my cool .

Good bye old servos...I have decided to upgrade to a single servo.

As this is going to be my secondary truck I wasn't too worried about a HV servo in this build. I am putting in a Savox SA-1230SG.

The specs say its rated at Speed(@6.0V sec/60): 0.16 & Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 500.

I think this will suit me just fine

[MITCH316]

I apologise in advance for the poor quality photos in this post.

Since this build is going to be used for the majority of bashing and trail running...not so much rock crawling (maybe 10%); I am keeping this build a primarily stock truck.

I was after a monster truck with huge torque that was a brushed system and that is totally different to my eRevo, I am also wanting to enjoy the benefits of the T-lock system.

I did not want to move away from the eRevo chassis and design as I think it is a near enough perfect truck.

I haven't felt the need to do the rear chassis brace like some guys are doing in their eRevo's...I personally don't like the way it clutters up everything, especially around the rear shocks.

What I did...and what has been holding up and working very well in my eRevo is a mod I made for the rear body mount.

I replaced the 4 x 14 BHC screw with a 3/16 x 1" UNC screw. I grinded the OD of the head down to 9mm diameter so it would fit snug in the rear body mount and cut the thread length down to 9mm.





I then put the rear mount into place and put some pressure with a screwdriver on the 3/16 screw until it bit the rear mount and threaded itself into place.



Once installed it is a very strong mod and holdups extremely well to severe bashing.



I have been using this mod for the past 7 months and has never once failed on me...I know the video I have posted below is of my eRevo but I wanted to use it as a reference to show you the abuse that the rear body mount is subjected to...and is still holding up strong.

This mod may come in handy for someone in the Summit forum.