I gave this a shot yesterday. Did the areas around the body mount holes and the roof scoop. The reason I did the area around the hood scoop was so I could cut it out to allow for some extra airflow/cooling.
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I gave this a shot yesterday. Did the areas around the body mount holes and the roof scoop. The reason I did the area around the hood scoop was so I could cut it out to allow for some extra airflow/cooling.
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Nice work dude i like it![]()
Famous last words...watch this!!!!
gonna try this tonight. I have already Gorilla glued the cracks in my rear fender wells.
But I agree, just use what you need.
The coolest thing about this repair process, is that if you miss a weak spot, and it cracks, it is a quick fix to get that particular point to be very strong. I just wish that every time I try a new body, I would know where all the weak points are...
Lowsaturn, I would throw a small patch in each of the 2 rear bed corners. They tend to wear into holes pretty quick from rollovers.
And the rear cab corners.
One other thing I found to help in the application... Use some wax paper to smooth everything out at the end of the process...
Last edited by rag6; 11-13-2012 at 06:46 PM.
LETS GO PENS!!!!
I've done the shoe goo and dry wall tape as needed. One, don't want to waste it, second it adds weight, third, doing the whole body times many bodies, This could get expensive. I like the wax paper idea. Going to try that on my next repair.
Try maintaining all the kids rc's and the wife's let alone your own. No time to repair after. besides the weight isn't a big factor. Like I said before, what works for one may not for another. Shoe goo has to sit for 24 hours to cure. No time to repair during the week.
Thrash It, Bash it, Break it, No Regrets!!!