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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    My new investment

    A couple mods since i got it broke a few things aready lol
    Robinson racging gen 3 slipper clutch 38t
    Robinson racing harden steel clutch bell 15t
    Integy 3 shoe aluminum clutch
    Low end TRX pipe
    Sway bars
    Motor saver filter
    A quick custom cage I bolted on

    Any sugestions on what next i want to widen the wheel base a little bit and wider tires i dont like flipping it i played with the suspension every run got it to where i like it but not where i love it

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  2. #2
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    How does that little roll cage working out? for widening your wheel base there are some hub extensions you can get, but only come in 17mm tho. I have a set of 12mm extenions which works roughy to a inch wider. i haev them on mine in my build if you wanna check them out. the tires come out bout almost 1/2 from under the body. would take a pic of mine with the body on but my body is pretty well thrashed. hoping to have my flo tek finishied well all trimmed out in next day or two and could take a picture for ya than.

  3. #3
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    That cage works great the only thing is I gotta UN bolt it from the chassis to work on the engine it serves it's purpose protecting the too of the engine. Alright sounds good I'm gonna take a look into it I saw another post that made custom hex heads

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Nice Slayer! I really like the custom roll cage over the engine! Does it rub on the body at all?
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Wow, what did you do to eat up that pinion? Normally the pinion eats the spur gear, but it looks like the spur gear got revenge!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    I've not EVER seen a clutch Bell do that.... Did you have the spur gear welded?
    Founder of H.U.A.
    Hop Ups Anonymous

  7. #7
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    yea only time ive done it was when i was running a metal spur gear. very impressive indeed...

  8. #8
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    I trimmed the body around it when it does a hard roll the bolts hit the roof but thats about it. Haha yeah i was running an alluminum clutch with the robinson steel gear but now i have the clutch bell to match lol make one part stronger better make the others match lol

  9. #9
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    and i need a new body lol....any suggestions?

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    I would wait for Traxxas to release the Dodge Ram body for the Slayer, that's what I'm waiting for...
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  11. #11
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    check out pro lines flo tek body....just be ready to sit down and some trimming in some small areas for all the cut outs. helps with the parachute effect you get with these big bodies...

    yea your body looks brand new compared to my original body...lol...

  12. #12
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    Yeah i got no prob cutting holes in the body lol It'll still be pretty in the end. I'm gonna check out that flo-tek but i got my eyes on the silverado body by pro line Chevrolet runs deep in my fam. That dodge ram body looks nice in all but not a fan sorry. I got 96 burban that im setting up to look like a 4-door SC truck i'll post pics as its coming together

  13. #13
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    yea gotta love those older burbans my parents had a '91 when i was younger was mad when they sold it cause i wanted it. lol....they pro line chevy is pretty sweet to. and i know what you mean bout chevy running deep in family dad retired from GM and we are doing a frame off resto on a '57 nomad right now. and also have a '56 bel air.
    Last edited by Double G; 08-28-2012 at 12:00 PM.

  14. #14
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    Sweet bro two awesome builds you have there. Wish I had the funding and time to do an old car, but i love my trucks not happy low to the ground lol. I'm in the process of buildin a either a 396 or 383 E-85 high compression engine for the truck.

    But for now my addiction for speed and bashing around is with my slayer, not many places left on long island for true 4-wheeling all are over ran by the law almost had a couple of trucks impounded but never caught me.

  15. #15
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    yea we have some spots here for some 4wheeling but like you it's legal untill they catch you...only truck we have right now is my dads 2006 duramax that has over 900,000 on it. and my addiction for speed is my slayer and merv while i save up to build my motor for my STi.

  16. #16
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    Blew out the clutch bearings again..... throwing out the integy alluminum 3 shoe flywheel looking into those buku clutches i've been hearing about. Oh and for anyone who wants to know what happens to a t-maxx and a slayer accident the slayer wins lol!!!!!!!!
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  17. #17
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    You sure everything else is good? seems extremem to being blowing out bearings that often. Yea my friend who i run trucks with has a extended tmaxx and we found that out awhile ago. you can get some pretty sweet wrecks..lol

  18. #18
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    Well I think I'm blowin' em out because of the excessive heat from idling with aluminum shoes. The slipper on the tranny is basically direct drive on the Robinson clutch and I think that's why I'm having idling issues cause if I turn it up it rolls forward if I turn it down a hair wants to stall so if I get the buku clutch it's adjustable and might resolve my issue.
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  19. #19
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    nice slayer im digging the roll cage

  20. #20
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    yea i don't have much experince with the buku clutches i've always just ran a mip two shoe replacement on mine. i'm prob gonna look into a robinson set once i get my new chassis.

  21. #21
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    remember, the shoes are different for the clutch bell from a Revo/T-Maxx and the smaller gear on the Rusty/Slayer. You're bell should spin forever with no drag. At an idle, only flywheel should be moving in the drive area.

    Also, When you mesh metal to metal gears, make sure you put more lash in between the gears. It the gears are too tight, they'll split like a coconut

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reilly630 View Post
    Well I think I'm blowin' em out because of the excessive heat from idling with aluminum shoes. The slipper on the tranny is basically direct drive on the Robinson clutch and I think that's why I'm having idling issues cause if I turn it up it rolls forward if I turn it down a hair wants to stall so if I get the buku clutch it's adjustable and might resolve my issue.
    Integy........I was warned with the first post that their no good finding out why plus I think the springs are too soft and engaging too soon. I'm ordering the buku but theres 2 different types aluminum or bonded material i'm kinda leaning towards the bonded just so with all to friction at idle and slower womping of the throttle its not metal to metal and creating all that heat.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redsawacs View Post
    remember, the shoes are different for the clutch bell from a Revo/T-Maxx and the smaller gear on the Rusty/Slayer. You're bell should spin forever with no drag. At an idle, only flywheel should be moving in the drive area.

    Also, When you mesh metal to metal gears, make sure you put more lash in between the gears. It the gears are too tight, they'll split like a coconut
    Yes learned early on with the lash between the two gears. I didn't split the bell again but blew out bearings and only found out that it happened because of a wreck (i would of kept going but i was fixing the other truck lol) and i think i damaged the shaft i'm going to play with the lash again maybe because it might be too tight and also creating extra heat. Thanks for the advice!
    Last edited by Double G; 08-31-2012 at 08:52 AM. Reason: merge
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  23. #23
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    I'm looking at ceramic bearings for my clutch bell. I'm thinking that they might be able to stand up to the heat produced by the metal gears and aluminum clutch shoes.
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  24. #24
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    Truck has been in peices on the desk looks like a scrap yard of parts lol got the ceramic bearings waiting for the axel to come back from my friend at the mechine shop then its gonna be back together i hope these ceramics work.
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Truck has been in peices on the desk looks like a scrap yard of parts lol got the ceramic bearings waiting for the axel to come back from my friend at the mechine shop then its gonna be back together i hope these ceramics work.
    What brand bearings did you get?

    600TH POST!!!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  26. #26
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    Acer but the trucks not together yet lol I'm dying to put it together but i got a new pup last month and hes been the biggest attention hog lol.
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  27. #27
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    FINALLY I'm back!! collection grew since my last visit and my last post got to running it a couple times after fixing up sandy damages then nore' easter clearings.....well..heres the result idk how but i snapped the coller off of the header! Was making a couple high speed passes on my block made a sharp turn flipped it like usual took off and then it got LOUD lol my nieghbor down the block took the quad out thinking another one was on the block lol. Oh and the ceramic bearings on the clutch bell made a HUGE difference.



    Last edited by Reilly630; 03-25-2013 at 07:56 AM.
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    What brand bearings did you get?

    600TH POST!!!
    I bought the acer bearings and cant complain their taking a beating thats for sure im denis andersons long lost son if you know what i mean lol
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  29. #29
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    Acer bearings nice... I use Protek bearings for all my stuff, engines too..

  30. #30
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    How you like the protek's? I've been out of the rc world for awhile just got back in last year.
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  31. #31
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    Yeah that acer bearing blew apart which ones should i go for, for the clutch bell?
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  32. #32
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    Welcome back! For you exhaust header you can swap out for the spring header. Also make sure the gap between your header and the resonater pipe is about a 1/4in in the coupler, and that the hanger screw is nice and tight. I went thro a few of the headers before I got it figured out.....

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by BomberSTi View Post
    Welcome back! For you exhaust header you can swap out for the spring header. Also make sure the gap between your header and the resonater pipe is about a 1/4in in the coupler, and that the hanger screw is nice and tight. I went thro a few of the headers before I got it figured out.....

    Thanks bro after this one breaks i'm gonna get a spring header for it. just ordered some beadlocks from pro-line and a pair of street fighter tires i only got a set of 2 for now to see how i like em, and i ordered protek sealed ceramic bearings to try em out
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  34. #34
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    Another option for exhaust would be a THS set-up. It really woke my slayer pro up, and that set-up has a three spring attachment at the pipe and header and a spring header also.
    And also besides the street fighters, check out duratrax banditos (Spelling) have heard some good things on them. Was just getting around to order a set for my slash. What are the beadlocks you ordered? are the 12mm or 14mm hex?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by BomberSTi View Post
    Another option for exhaust would be a THS set-up. It really woke my slayer pro up, and that set-up has a three spring attachment at the pipe and header and a spring header also.
    And also besides the street fighters, check out duratrax banditos (Spelling) have heard some good things on them. Was just getting around to order a set for my slash. What are the beadlocks you ordered? are the 12mm or 14mm hex?
    Don't know thats the thing they didn't specify, their listed for the slash 4x4 ill let you know when it comes in i believe it was the split 6 bedlocks if they don't fit ill sell em or return em. You have bedlocks on your rig right? Where did you get em and do you know the part number?
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

  36. #36
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    I don't have any "true" beadlocks on my slayer pro. I have look-a-like beadlocks, they are the rim/tire package for the SC8 truck. If I'm remembering right slayer pro is 14mm and slash is 12mm. You can get them to work on your slayer just have to run 12mm hexes. I want to say wolfslash or someone runs the split six beadlocks on his truck..Just would have to drill out the 12mm hex to work, Or I think you could use some hexes from tekno. I'll have to check tonight after work, I'll pop a tire and one of the hexes off a tekno shaft and see if that's what you need...

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