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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Man!! You can really tell how beefy the HPI shafts are once installed! From the looks of the pics there isnt much room for error for the shafts to hit the A-arms and even the camber links. Dude when you get that power plant contained you are going to have one bad mammer jammer.

    Any thoughts on going to the GPS Module and Expander unit in the future? I've had a couple on pre-order as long as I can remember. I think I had asked you think before, can't remember. LOL
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  2. #42
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    Yeah, BaldyDaniels, that's one sick post you've put up in this thread! I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you on this one and the rest of us. And I hear you on running for more than 15 minutes. I just snapped my last two axle shafts this morning during the first pack.

    The TQi with the camera is awesome too

  3. #43
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Wow what a great thread! I'm glad I came across it.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    THE VERDICT IS IN!!

    Sorry to keep you fellas waiting, but I was doing some very thorough integrity testing of the modded HPI shafts... All afternoon! ;-)

    Oh man I'm stoked. The shafts performed way better than I expected. At first I was kinda reluctant to yank the throttle to the max like I usually do for fear that the shafts would fail and kill my bashing session and destroy my handy work in modding the shafts. Then I started thinking that if they are gonna fail it might as well be right now. After tightening the slipper as tight as it can go, I pulled the truck onto a strip of sticky new asphalt, put the tqi torque control knob to full power, put the tqi in stage mode, activated the launch control switch, pulled the throttle to full then braced myself for disappointment as I flipped the launch switch. To my amazement this 7+lb beast instantly pointed its tires skyward and rode on nothing but the wheelie bar wheels for the split second before it did Thee only lid skid I will ever enjoy watching. Lol.

    Needless to say, but after that it was hammer time. Geared at 26/76 on 3s lipo, the HR P2de had 4 consecutive packs run through it this afternoon at full throttle for an estimated 85% of the time it was ran. I ran a full pack on asphalt with excessive stops and starts, full throttle pulls and brake induced power slides. The second pack was run in 2-3" long grass at the local school yard, as well as full throttle passes around the giant dirt oval used for track and field events. The last two packs were all for me, to make up for the lost drive time since installing the et-2400 and et-3s and I ran them with my son on all types of surfaces while he ran the now brushless po-po-p2de hummer on 3s lipo. We had a blast today with no untimely disappointment, zero parts failures and perfect weather. Just me and my boy, a couple of extremely fast Traxxas Stamp2des and an ample supply of fully charged 3s lipos.

    So much fun that I didn't even think to check on the condition of the shafts. Then to top it all off, we came back home and I inspected the shafts and here's what I saw:







    They're still like new! No twisting, no stretching, no elongated u joint mounting holes, nothing. And I'm gonna do it all over again tomorrow. Lol.

    Now this does not mean the end to this thread as far as shafts go, (we all know that the upgrades of the HR P2de will never cease) cuz as solid as these modded hpi shafts turned out so far, they did cost me $24.99 + taxes and took probably 3+ hours to mod and custom fit to the truck. I did this out of necessity because I hate down time when it comes to The HR P2de and could not wait for + or- 2 weeks when the new shafts start coming in the mail before I could bash again. Sure, I can keep running the sl4sh shafts for ten minutes at a time, but that's almost more disappointing than not bashing at all. (kinda like running titan 12t motors all over again). Haha. But seriously, the fact is that there's no quick and simple way to do the modding of the hpi shafts. There's no measurements I can give you, if you grind too much plastic off the outputs they're useless and they take a lot of time to custom fit to the truck. Not very economical or practical for the average user.

    So I will still be testing the new shafts as they arrive and I will be posting all findings and results for each shaft I try. There has to be a bolt on shaft available that is strong enough to take this motor, and i'll find it. If I can't find it, then its not available on the market and I guess I'll have to see about producing them myself. ;-)

    Oh yeah and get this, my son blew a rear tire off the po-po-p2de hummer today, so I grabbed some good old monster jam wheels and tires and put them on for him. On dirt and asphalt my trenchers dig really well and the hummer can't keep up due to less traction than the trenchers. (don't get me wrong though, the MJ tires are pretty darn good on all surfaces) My HR P2de is faster than the hummer overall, but when we got onto the 2-3" tall grass I could not catch that hummer, heck I couldn't even come close! The MJ tires on 2-3" dry grass are unbelievably awesome and left my truck looking like a brushed unit in comparison to the acceleration of the hummer on MJ tires. My son made sure we ran on the grass for almost that whole pack and kept rubbing it in real good too. Lol.

    Here's a pic of the blown tire. Serves me right for not going out and buying some more carpet tape before mounting these. I got lazy and used duct tape on them and the tape gave out and the tire ballooned and detonated in the spot where the tape failed. Boo duct tape! Won't happen again.



    You can see in this pic just how much the duct tape has been stretching with the tire. So I guess the only thing I accomplished by using duct tape was to effectively add useless weight to the tire.




    Diggerpede, yes I have given thought to adding the tqi gps unit to the HR P2DE, in fact I just purchased one yesterday. But I don't see the need for the telemetry expansion unit since the gps module plugs into the rpm port and I can't see myself installing a total of 8 sensors in this truck, too much stuff to go wrong. Since I don't like the open hole of the traxxas telemetry ready gear cover, I won't be using the rpm sensor anyways. Plus we already know the rpm of our motors without using a telemetry sensor - kv x volts. :-) I also ordered the temp/voltage sensor for electric motors, cuz that's a cool feature for sure. Hopefully its an accurate temp reading. You said you had a gps unit on pre order or back order? You're looking in the wrong place then. Lol. The place I got mine from yesterday had a total of 6 left and they are cheaper than any other retailer at $77. They sell the expansion unit for $28 and the temp/voltage sensor for $9.50. Plus they offer a price match guarantee if you find any of their items selling for cheaper somewhere else. Just PM me if you want me to give you the link to the site, then after you order yours I'll post the link here for whoever else is looking for the gps module or expansion module.

    Thanks for the support guys! So glad I'm up n bashing full time again!









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  5. #45
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Curse brushless power! Never had these problems back in '06 lol...
    You know i was thinking about this, and i believe '06 could be right around the time when these problems started to come into play, as i believe this was the first year of the Castle creations Mamba Max brushless system. It was pretty high kv though, something like 5700kv or around there. Either way, strength should come before speed, but this is where the market for durability has fallen behind due to "the need for speed" by consumers and the race between manufacturers to fulfill this speed need. Even most stock Traxxas vehicles ( e.g. Stampede vxl, xo-1) are way too fast for how durable they are. Sure, im lured like everyone else into buying an rc thats advertised as being the fastest available, but i would be much more inclined and would trample a crowd of people to be the first to buy an rc that was guaranteed bulletproof! Just a thought i was having....😊
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  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post
    Diggerpede, yes I have given thought to adding the tqi gps unit to the HR P2DE, in fact I just purchased one yesterday. But I don't see the need for the telemetry expansion unit since the gps module plugs into the rpm port and I can't see myself installing a total of 8 sensors in this truck, too much stuff to go wrong. Since I don't like the open hole of the traxxas telemetry ready gear cover, I won't be using the rpm sensor anyways. Plus we already know the rpm of our motors without using a telemetry sensor - kv x volts. :-) I also ordered the temp/voltage sensor for electric motors, cuz that's a cool feature for sure. Hopefully its an accurate temp reading. You said you had a gps unit on pre order or back order? You're looking in the wrong place then. Lol. The place I got mine from yesterday had a total of 6 left and they are cheaper than any other retailer at $77. They sell the expansion unit for $28 and the temp/voltage sensor for $9.50. Plus they offer a price match guarantee if you find any of their items selling for cheaper somewhere else. Just PM me if you want me to give you the link to the site, then after you order yours I'll post the link here for whoever else is looking for the gps module or expansion module.
    Well hot diddly dog!! I pre-ordered mine from Tower way back in April. They are typically fast, maybe not the fastest, to get the stuff in and out. I'm sure I know of the place you are talking about and they were the cheapest at the initial cost, but with my Tower discounts they were still cheaper than that. No biggie though, thanks for letting me know someone has them and are getting them out. I havent read or seen anyone on here post that they have the units. I think last week the status on my order had changed.....it shows, " on order ".

    I contacted Peter V way back in June. He stated you needed the Expander unit to use the GPS Module. I'm not sure you can use the RPM port for this.

    Thanks for writing, Joshua. The telemetry expander is required to use the GPS Module, which is not yet available. The expander module will also let you install additional sensors on your model (for example, you could add an extra temperature sensor, so you could monitor exhaust temperature as well as engine temperature in a nitro model). See below for how everything plugs in.

    Thank you for supporting Traxxas, and thank you for your patience as we complete the GPS module. More exciting stuff is on the way!
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  7. #47
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    Im glad to hear the interim setup is working out for you BaldyDaniels Like with most of the work you put out, I like what you did here over most of the other options you originally posted.

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    I contacted Peter V way back in June. He stated you needed the Expander unit to use the GPS Module. I'm not sure you can use the RPM port for this.
    I'm trying to recall where I read about using the rpm port, it coulda been another site forum that might have been out to lunch. I guess I better get on ordering the expansion module then. Where the Heck does a guy fit all this extra stuff on the truck? Hopefully I can mash it all into the receiver box or i will have to install another receiver box to house all this extra electronic mess. Lol Thanks for clarifying that for me, I woulda been kinda ticked off if I had waited for the gps unit to come only to find out that I had to wait for another order.

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  9. #49
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    Im glad to hear the interim setup is working out for you BaldyDaniels Like with most of the work you put out, I like what you did here over most of the other options you originally posted.
    Thanks for the kind words bud. I'm not one for settling for only whatevers available from retailers when it comes to stuff like this, and there was no way i was just gonna wait around for the steel shafts to arrive, while not knowing whether or not they will be strong enough. Really, anyone with a dremel, $25 worth of hpi shafts, slash 4x4 rear stub axles removed from the plastic yoke and a few hours to kill, could do this mod as well. As long as a guy is patient when grinding and remove only a bit of plastic at a time then test fit, then grind, then test and repeat til it fits, then it'll work out.

    OH MAN, CHECK THIS OUT!

    I got two more 3s packs in early this morning, then this afternoon I ran 3 more packs back to back while bashing with my son. Geared at 28/76, after 3 back to back 3s packs, the motor temp was 115.4F and the esc was at 98.8F. During a good stretch of grass running, the motor hit 124F, then I took it onto the street and within 2 mins of street running the motor was under 110F again. Every pack I've ran with these shafts has been run with the torque set to full and the slipper clutch torqued down as tight as it'll go.

    Check out what the shafts look like now:





    They haven't twisted even the slightest bit, and the best part is when you look closely at the u joint mounting holes. They aren't even showing signs of wear or any stretching of the yoke holes at all. They look as good as the minute I put them in. I'm loving the no worries bashing and have been mashing full throttle almost constantly. My HR P2DE is a wheelie machine all over again with this setup, but one quick on the fly adjustment of the torque control knob and I got full control again. I bought another et-3s esc today off ebay for $69 shipped for another one of my pedes and gonna pick one up for every one of my pedes.

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  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Baldy, Thats super sick bro! Oh man! I love it! Also, I love Trenchers too... Btw.... Ive had great success with Trenchers, Taped with Gorilla Tape.

    Like Ive said before, This forum is that much better, and more knowledgable with you here brotha.
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  11. #51
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post
    I'm trying to recall where I read about using the rpm port, it coulda been another site forum that might have been out to lunch. I guess I better get on ordering the expansion module then. Where the Heck does a guy fit all this extra stuff on the truck? Hopefully I can mash it all into the receiver box or i will have to install another receiver box to house all this extra electronic mess. Lol Thanks for clarifying that for me, I woulda been kinda ticked off if I had waited for the gps unit to come only to find out that I had to wait for another order.
    You know bro, that's what we are all here for. I'm glad there are so many of us that work together to make stuff happen. Way back when I had a fuzzy feeling I needed to ask where the GPS Module was going to install to. I was thinking the same thing where am I going to place a couple more items on my Pede. LOL I'm not so worried on my Sl2sh, Sl4sh, ERBE, EMBE, & might be a place on my P4de. Believe you me I will make it happen on my Digger even if I have to become creative.

    I'm actually look'n for another speed control myself. I might have to pick one of those ET-3S's up too. I'm working on a Bandit build, I have a couple of motors that I can slap on it. CC 3800kv or the HPI Vektor 4000kv ( CC makes this ).

    What's you next bump on the pinion??? ....... 30T ......... 33T ..... ???? LOL or you just going to stay 28/76?

    I'm like LooT, bro. Glad to see you back man......nothing like seeing your work back in action.
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  12. #52
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    You know bro, that's what we are all here for. I'm glad there are so many of us that work together to make stuff happen. Way back when I had a fuzzy feeling I needed to ask where the GPS Module was going to install to. I was thinking the same thing where am I going to place a couple more items on my Pede. LOL I'm not so worried on my Sl2sh, Sl4sh, ERBE, EMBE, & might be a place on my P4de. Believe you me I will make it happen on my Digger even if I have to become creative.

    I'm actually look'n for another speed control myself. I might have to pick one of those ET-3S's up too. I'm working on a Bandit build, I have a couple of motors that I can slap on it. CC 3800kv or the HPI Vektor 4000kv ( CC makes this ).

    What's you next bump on the pinion??? ....... 30T ......... 33T ..... ???? LOL or you just going to stay 28/76?

    I'm like LooT, bro. Glad to see you back man......nothing like seeing your work back in action.
    Thanks buddy, work is a little less crazy now so I'll be on the forum a bit more again. Being so busy during the summer months is the whole reason I strive to make my HR P2DE unbreakable, cuz if I take my unit with me to work I can budget a bit of free time for a quick bash session but don't have time for repairs or to be waiting for parts orders. If I didn't take my pede to work id barely ever get to drive it.

    As for the next bump in the pinion gear, I think I'm gonna step it up to 30/76 and see how that is for temps. That'll be close to the performance/temperature medium I'm looking for. I may try to squeeze 42/76 in for some speed runs if I can get it to fit in this transmission, I know that 39/76 will fit with a bit of room to spare so we'll see.

    The et-3s seems to be a very solid esc so far, and performs like a champ. I like that it has the temp activated fan and it has such a small footprint. It does have a sensor port on the front, but I don't know if it works or not.

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  13. #53
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Baldy, do you have the part #'s for the hpi parts? What truck did they come off of? Just combed the thread and did not see it. Sorry if I missed it. Very happy that you have turned plastic into gold...
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  14. #54
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Another Upgrade!

    Cant be installing all these new upgrades without sporting a new lid!

    HPI 2002 Dodge Ram Body painted using pactra blue metallic pearl for the primary color and for the flames and windows I used pactras chezoom teal metallic. I backed both colors with metallic silver to make the metallics pop. Both colors were rattle cans and I drew the flames myself onto vinyl masking sheet, then trimmed and applied. The Pictures dont do it justice, it looks far better in person, just hard to get the right lighting to show the metallics. The metallic blue pearl is a very close match to the traxxas blue aluminum parts and motor.








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  15. #55
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Hey BaldyDaniels that castle / traxxas Et-3 system do you need the tqi dragster remote. I have a slash 4x4 I want this system for and I just have the norm. Tqi without launch control. Thanks
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  16. #56
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Baldy, do you have the part #'s for the hpi parts? What truck did they come off of? Just combed the thread and did not see it. Sorry if I missed it. Very happy that you have turned plastic into gold...
    Thanks man.. No you didn't miss it, I had no idea that this would work as good as it does and that's why I never really got into any specifics about which shafts they were or how I made them fit. The shafts are for the e-savage and are part Hpi82008.



    Now I know that there are those that will say that the shafts are made for 6mm axles and therefore won't work. Well yes they are for 6mm axles, and yes I put 5mm axles in them after I ground down some of the axle stub output to make the axle go through the carrier far enough to get the drive pin in. I can tell you that the stub axle does move left to right in the output, but does not move up and down. After the stub axle is through the carrier and the hex pin is installed, this eliminates that left to right movement. This is where it is imperative to only remove a little bit of plastic at a time until it fits just right.

    For the output yokes I took electrical tape and taped around the u joint so the output yoke wasn't flopping around while I was grinding on it. I used traxxas screw pins from some old traxxas output yokes to hold the stub axle in the axle output.

    Since the Magnum diff output shafts use a traxxas screw pin, and the Hpi shafts use a bigger screw pin like these:



    Instead of drilling out the holes in the diff output drives, I opted to grind down the pins instead by inserting the threaded end of the screw pin into the chuck of my cordless drill, and while spinning the drill I used the Dremel with a grinding wheel to evenly grind down the pin until it was the proper diameter to fit the output drives.

    Sure, this wasn't the most practical solution to my shaft problem, but its what I could get hold of and make work right away to avoid downtime cuz summer is fading fast. Id like to

    I have stepped up my gearing again to 33/76 which easily gets the HR p2de to around 55mph and there is no vibration of the Hpi shafts at all at top speed. I also checked the condition of the stub axle output yokes to see if there was any signs of where due to the 5mm axle being installed in the 6mm hole and there is no wear whatsoever.

    I will still be trying the mip x-duty cvds to see if they will hold up to this kind of stress, but at least I have something right now that works very well, and will continue to use the Hpi modded shafts if the mips fail, while I continue to find or make an easier solution to this issue.

    Oh yeah, and geared at 33/76 the HR P2DE will still pull wheelies at 45+mph. Its a beautiful thing!

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  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdvanb View Post
    Hey BaldyDaniels that castle / traxxas Et-3 system do you need the tqi dragster remote. I have a slash 4x4 I want this system for and I just have the norm. Tqi without launch control. Thanks
    I haven't tried calibration of the ET-3S esc with my other Tqi tx's, so this is an answer I currently can not provide. I do however have an email sent out to traxxas support with several questions regarding this brushes system which includes your question as well. I will post any info that I receive in regards to these questions as soon as traxxas gets back to me.

    I do know that the ET-3S esc is where the launch control and staging modes reside (Not functions of the Tqi, only controlled via the Tqi) so I would have to assume that the calibration of the esc could only be successful with a Tqi tx that has controls for these functions.

    So you could either play it safe and just buy another Tqi radio system off ebay that was taken from a traxxas funny car model (they can be had for pretty cheap), or just hold off on the purchase of this brushless system until we can get the info you need.

    Sent from Baldy's Rotary Telephone Using The Retro-Messaging App and One Finger.
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  18. #58
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    Insert Garth's voice...we're not worthy, we're not worthy, lol. BaldyDaniels, the truck is looking beastly as usual. Nice choice on the body and paint scheme, I like the subtle color change with the graphic, good stuff man.

    I had to break out the calculiator for your gearing. That's right around 22/50. With your experience in the speed run department, you really think it's 55mph? Id like to think so as I thought my rig was trucking along with that gearing also. But mine wasnt very controllable. Your truck is probably eating it up, in the good way, of course. That gearing combo you're running is definitely going to start putting those HPI's to the test. later man

  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Which esavege? The original shafts in my esavage were snapping with brushed power. I had to put traxxas 4951x's in the esav to to keep it running with brushed motors. Guess they are for the flux trucks?
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Which esavege? The original shafts in my esavage were snapping with brushed power. I had to put traxxas 4951x's in the esav to to keep it running with brushed motors. Guess they are for the flux trucks?
    Not sure which e-savage they are for, I just saw them hanging on the wall at the hobby shop so I grabbed em. The flux xl maybe. They are huge compared to the sl4sh rear shafts and are comparable in size to the shafts on my sons emaxx which I believe are 5451x's.

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  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    Insert Garth's voice...we're not worthy, we're not worthy, lol. BaldyDaniels, the truck is looking beastly as usual. Nice choice on the body and paint scheme, I like the subtle color change with the graphic, good stuff man.

    I had to break out the calculiator for your gearing. That's right around 22/50. With your experience in the speed run department, you really think it's 55mph? Id like to think so as I thought my rig was trucking along with that gearing also. But mine wasnt very controllable. Your truck is probably eating it up, in the good way, of course. That gearing combo you're running is definitely going to start putting those HPI's to the test. later man
    Thanks man, the metallic blue pearl and chezoom teal metallic are a really nice color combo. As I said before, the Pics don't do these colors justice due to the lighting when I took the shots. Once I find the optimal lighting to get the Colors to pop on a digital shot, I'll post em up.

    55mph was an estimate on my part, but I wasn't too far off. (video uploading) My truck does handle high speed runs in a very easy to control manner that was making 28/76 seem kinda slow. I can pull quite hard on the throttle and get to top speed quite fast due to the weight and length of the HR p2de and found that I was topping out the motor too early for my liking. My truck will wheelie on command quite easily with this powerplant, but only if I pull the throttle to over 3/4 in a very quick burst. Even from a stand still, it takes a quick 60+% throttle pull to get the wheels to point skyward. You also have to remember how much flat, open space I have at my disposal where I live, so as long as the truck is controllable it is very easy for me to hit top speed without fear of obstacles. Heck, even on one of the shorter lengths of road I run my trucks, I can hit 50mph with the nhra funny car no problem, and I can tell you that the HR p2de is going just as fast as the dragster on that same strip.

    I know what you mean though about the uncontrollable feeling of an rc making the speed seem way fast. When I run my xo-1 it just has a seizure all over the road and is a completely irritating unit to try and drive on everyday roads, The nhra funny car manages to grab the everyday asphalt extremely well (after a good burnout) but is quite a challenge to keep in a straight line if there's pebbles all over the road. Both of these cars gain more control the faster they go. Once I got a handle on keeping these cars going in a straight line at speeds of 50+mph, controlling my pedes became much easier. The hardest part for me was learning to not panic and oversteer when the truck would wander off course a bit. High speed cartels are the most devastating blows you can ever inflict on your truck, and they make your stomach knot up when watching! Lol.

    Speed runs video from tonight will be posted shortly...


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  22. #62
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Some speed runs I did this evening on 3s lipo geared 33/76. For some reason it took forever for the Contour GPS Camera to get a lock on the GPS signal and i almost didnt get to do any GPS verified runs before dark. The truck still has a little more power than what you will see here, but it was getting dark so I had to do the runs on the street in front of my house instead of walking to the longer strip where i could run it wide open. This is also the bottom half of the lipo, as i wasted the first half of the pack waiting for the camera to lock onto gps signal and couldnt resist the urge to bash while i could. The Lipo I was using in this video is a Duratrax Onyx 5000mah 25c 3s lipo that had 3 runs on it, this being the 4th. Some of you may remember when i had a dtx lipo puff on me a little while back, well this is the replacement that they had sent me. Its got some decent power so far and will hopefully have more once it has been run a few more times and is broken in...or just gets broken like the last one. lol. Now that i got to see that this motor still has massive amounts of torque at 33/76 running a dtx lipo, this weekend I'll drop in 39/76 and a thunder power or maxamps lipo and run it wide open on the big strip nearby and see what that'll do.

    Enjoy!



    Oh yeah, and i forgot to mention that I'm running the 2.8 trenchers on 3.2 mt splits and using the My jacked up Project Purple Ford F250 Truck body. Not too much aerodynamics going on here. lol

    Last edited by BaldyDaniels; 09-13-2012 at 11:30 PM.
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  23. #63
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    I for one, can really appreciate the video, BaldyDaniels. It gives me an idea of what my top speed could be running that gear. I remember wanting to go castle and hearing about how the 2400 was too much motor for a stampede, and then realizing that I was lied to the 2400 is a great motor for the pede! It has so much more acceleration than my 3S VXL combo, & makes tons of power in the form of forward motivation. I cant wait for the speed reading on the 39/76 combo.

  24. #64
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    I for one, can really appreciate the video, BaldyDaniels. It gives me an idea of what my top speed could be running that gear. I remember wanting to go castle and hearing about how the 2400 was too much motor for a stampede, and then realizing that I was lied to the 2400 is a great motor for the pede! It has so much more acceleration than my 3S VXL combo, & makes tons of power in the form of forward motivation. I cant wait for the speed reading on the 39/76 combo.
    Nah, I don't think you were lied to about the 2400 being too much for the pede, cuz in a stock weight, length and width pede it would be way too hairy. The motor still has a bit more power than what you saw in my video, but it was getting dark out and it was hard to see the truck when it got further away from me, so I couldn't hold full throttle for more than a second or so with the limited runway. Taking into consideration the excessive weight of my truck, it is pretty amazing how quickly it gets up to 50mph in such a short distance.

    I have a buddy coming over tomorrow that came in from outta town for the week and the other day I showed him my YouTube vids of my HR P2de and all he could say was "I'm getting one!" so I'm charging up all my lipos and he and I and my son are gonna go out and bash together tomorrow morning so im gonna keep the 33/76 in for now. But either tomorrow evening or Sunday I'll squeeze the 39/76 gearing in and see how that plays out with one of my big boy lipos. :-P I'm gonna guess 65+mph.... If my tires don't blow off the wheels. I may have to throw the xo-1 wheels/tires on so I don't kill my trenchers, but I'm curious to see if my carpet tape method holds out at that kinda speed. Lol

    Oh yeah, I forgot to mention last night that after running the full pack with 33/76 gears, (all speed passes on asphalt), the motor temp was at 119 and the esc at 98. Crazy right? It was a lot of passes too. The video I uploaded is only 1/3rd of the original video I captured. The total run time of the pack with the 33/76 gearing was just over 25 mins of non stop speed passes. Man, between the humm of the trenchers on asphalt at break neck speed and the buzz of the 2400 motor purring away, I was in a total state of awe and couldn't stop running up and down the street just to hear that sound over and over. Ya, I'm in love. Lol

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  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    I for one, can really appreciate the video, BaldyDaniels. It gives me an idea of what my top speed could be running that gear. I remember wanting to go castle and hearing about how the 2400 was too much motor for a stampede, and then realizing that I was lied to the 2400 is a great motor for the pede! It has so much more acceleration than my 3S VXL combo, & makes tons of power in the form of forward motivation. I cant wait for the speed reading on the 39/76 combo.
    I dont think/ hope anyone lied to you, probably more in the words of persuasion. The motor is just way torquey. Like you and baldy have it setup with an Ext chassis its way way way better. I so wanted to put that in my Pede last year and actually purchased that combo and the 3800kv motor. Once I put the MMP & 3800kv motor in there, I was blasted away by the power it produces. You might even want to dabble with that one of these days, maybe for a secondary pede? I think you would even respect the 2400 even more in a P4de. Just gobs upon gobs of tire shredding power. I run the CC 4000, 3800, 2650, 2400, & 2 2200kv's. Talk to Loot man, he dumped the 2200 in his Speed Rustler build, shoot man they put 1:1 gearing in those bay boys.

    I tell you one thing when yall get that worked out I might build me a 1/8 Pede. Go with the bigger 1/8 Parma Digger Body, bigger tires, & then i'll have it going on like Donkey Kong. LOL

    @ baldy. You should hear the 2200 scream down the road. When I first first fired up my E-Maxx Brushless way last year and slapped a couple of 2S Lipo in Series, I just grinned ear to ear. I'm almost curious as to how the next step down in Castle motors sounds. It has to be amazing. LOL

    Hope you and the buddy have a good time this weekend. Burn up those packs and more. Fun times my friend. Shoot some video with yall busting up those trucks too.
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  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Well, I came home last night and found a few goodies in my mailbox.

    First package was the hardened steel shafts I ordered off ebay off of a seller called bigsalesxd. I have no idea who manufactures the shafts, I just saw them and thought they had some potential. They are a fairly well made product with decent machining and a nice finish. The one thing I didn't like is that they did not include any mounting hardware such as screw pins or hex drive pins. They do use the stock traxxas screw pin, so not too big of a deal. The other thing I noticed right away is that the u-joint yokes can not be synchronized accurately which leaves them less efficient than they could be. Overall they are very nice and look like they are built pretty solid... Time will tell. ;-)

    Shiny cvd's installed:







    For anyone else who already owns cvd's or is considering trying these shiny hardened steel cvd's, here's a bit of info about synchronizing the yokes that will help prolong the life of the driveshafts and make them articulate more efficiently.

    With cross-type universal joints, as the angle between the driving shaft (differential output) and driven shaft (stub axle) increases, the driven shaft is forced to slow down and speed up in each revolution. Ideally, at the other end of a two-u-joint shaft, you would have the second universal oriented so that as the first one is slowing down, the second would be speeding up; thus cancelling out the rpm variation. Do it wrong, and you double the rpm variation causing vibration, premature wear and more stress on the shaft itself. At high speeds the shaft could vibrate excessively until it inevitably fails and blows apart. On high traction surfaces and also on rough terrain where the shaft joints are fully articulating as the suspension works, the added stress from the unsynchronized yokes could cause premature failure as well.

    Next package was the mip x-duty cvd's. Now these things have some serious weight to them. Built very well as I expected, are big and beefy and are a good example of how mip has done their homework when it comes to driveshafts. The yokes can be perfectly synchronized and there is very little slop in the spline engagement. Since the mip x-duty cvd's are a drive cup and single pin type joint, they have far less rpm variation than the cross type u-joints and therefore articulate much smoother at greater shaft angles. I imagine that they could possibly suffer from vibrations at high speeds if not installed in a way that evens out the weight of the shaft. (this is what I think happened when the drive cup shattered on the last set of these I bought). The grub screw on the barrel that holds the drive pin in place is the culprit in this case. Since there is only one grub screw on one side of each barrel, if you have both grub screws on the same side of the shaft it could throw the balance of the shaft out at high speed. I really like how the mips come with bearing spacers that go in between the bearings in the carrier and allow for tightening of the wheel nut without worry of overtightening that could cause binding. The one thing I did not realize about these cvd's when I ordered them is that the stub axles are keyed and come with an included 12mm keyed hex, meaning I would now need to order some mip 17mm adapters in order to use the shafts with my current wheel/tire combo. Here's the kicker: keyed 17mm hex adapters from mip for these shafts costs $3 less than I paid for the full set of rear cvd shafts! With shipping the adapters are something like $55 which is just ridiculous. Since I am well versed in custom making my own 5mm stub axles, I have all the tools needed, and remedied this by simply drilling hex drive pin holes in the stub axles which allows me to use the new traxxas 17mm adapters I ordered, which is the next package that came.

    Mip cvd's and new traxxas 17mm adapters installed:







    I also ordered a set of flm 12mm-17mm hex adapters which fit right over the 12mm hexes and they were priced not too bad at $30.



    I also received the new strc aluminum bulkhead I ordered which I haven't installed yet. Its a beautiful piece of milled aluminum. This bulkhead is the first piece of strc aluminum I've ever owned, but with so many good reviews about strc from members here, it was an easy choice for me to make. I am however, feeling a little apprehensive about switching out my stock bulkhead, cuz it has been holding strong for over a year now. I feel as though it would jinx me. Lol

    Pic of the strc bulkhead:



    I have wanted to build an all polished silver alloy P2de for a while now and have looked at strc, flm, hot-racing, etc., but have yet to find a single QUALITY manufacturer that makes ALL the parts to build a complete truck. The reputable manufacturers that are available seem to only make certain parts which would mean id have to mix and match. Maybe its just me, but the design of the different brands of parts don't seem to match up very well. For example, flm parts don't match very well with some of the strc parts, and vice versa, hot-racing parts don't match with flm or strc very well. Plus if I build an alloy unit, I'm still gonna want to beat it like it owes me money, so brands like integy are out of the question, I don't care how pretty their parts are. And on the other side of things, theres parts that I just don't like the look of such as the awful looking aluminum rear arms that strc makes. :-P Just my opinion though. Anyone know of a brand/manufacturer that makes strong alloy parts and has every part to build a complete truck? I wish traxxas made aluminum options for every part of the pede, id be all over it in a hurry!
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  27. #67
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Anyways, that's what I have for now that I can install and put to the test this weekend, but I did order a few more things that I will review as they arrive. Here's some of the other things I just ordered:

    Diff locking spool:



    Another diff locking spool:



    Aluminum case for the castle esc:



    Strc hinge pins:



    Aluminum 48 pitch 73 tooth spur gear:




    Also ordered a Castle link cable, an iphone extension cable to connect my ipads to the tqi and all 48 pitch pinions from 35-46 tooth, except for 42 tooth cuz nobody sells that one for some reason.

    Oh yeah, and I found a Canadian seller that carries one of my favorite lipo brands and bought this thunder power g6 7700mah 65c 3s pack which should put out some seriously insane power at 500amp continuous and 1000amp burst. Cost was $200 with free shipping. I don't mind paying the higher price for a thunder power lipo cuz they have been very reliable and insanely powerful lipos for me, plus these new g6 lipos are supposed to outperform all their previous series'



    Specifications for the Thunder Power RC7700mAh 3-Cell/3S 11.1V
    Max Charge: 12C
    Max Cont. Discharge: 65C
    Max Burst Discharge: 130C
    Max Charge Current: 92.4A
    Max Cont. Current: 500A
    Max Burst Current: 1001A
    Weight (grams): 626
    Dimensions H x W x L (mm): 50 x 44 x 136

    Most importantly, I will be giving the mip x-duty cvds the "Baldy Beat-Down" test this weekend. Gonna see if I can build a bigger launch ramp and do some more speed runs (maybe a combination of both lol) and will post video and results. Thanks for reading!

    Sent from Baldy's mind using telekinesis.
    Last edited by BaldyDaniels; 09-22-2012 at 01:13 AM.
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  28. #68
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    Nice pickups for the Stampede BaldyDaniels The 73 tooth spur is a cool find and great info on teh different axle packs. Who knows, maybe I'l try one of those Thunder Power packs someday. I guess by the time an SPC pack made it to your door, it would have cost the same as the pack you scored?

    Not too random, but how are the shocks treating you?

  29. #69
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    Nice pickups for the Stampede BaldyDaniels The 73 tooth spur is a cool find and great info on teh different axle packs. Who knows, maybe I'l try one of those Thunder Power packs someday. I guess by the time an SPC pack made it to your door, it would have cost the same as the pack you scored?

    Not too random, but how are the shocks treating you?
    Thanks man, I have seen aluminum spurs by Hot-Racing in 73,74,75,76,83,86,90,91,92,93 that are belled like the 73t i just bought and are supposed to be a direct fit to the newer slippers we run. Since I have to gear this motor so tall, i wont be needing spurs with a higher tooth count than the 73, plus i want to stay with 48 pitch gearing and my aluminum gear cover.

    The Losi 8ight shocks are a perfect match for my Truck, but i was having a bit of trouble keeping the shock rod ends from pulling off the threads. I solved this problem with some aluminum rod ends, and this solved all the mounting issues in the front end but the rear is still having issues. Before installing the alumiminum ends on the rear shocks, i was breaking plastic rod ends so often that i couldnt leave the house with my truck without first filling my pocket with spares and a hex tool. Today i had one of the aluminum rod ends bend. Im working on some new aluminum stand offs to mount the rears, as im sure it is the front to back angle that is making them have this issue. Other than the rod ends, the shocks have been rock solid and have no problem keeping the Hr p2de from slapping the chassis upon landing big air. Im gonna hunt down some spring options for the shocks cuz the springs they came with are a bit too soft yet and require quite a bit of preload to handle the weight of my truck.

    As for the lipos, you are correct. If I were to order an spc lipo and they shipped it via ups the cost would be very high. At least when I order the TP lipos, the distributor i use is located in Canada so Im paying for the lipo and not the shipping. With an spc lipo id likely pay more for the shipping than i would for the pack, and that just doesnt sit right with me. The states will be reviewing the ban on shipping lithium batteries in the start of 2013, so hopefully they will come up with a better solution than a complete ban. Either way, the TP Lipos are some very reliable and extremely potent packs. They are cheaper in the states, so it would cost you less than it costs me to run em. Give one a try...I dare you! lol

  30. #70
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Strc bulkhead installed:



    Mip x-duty cvds holding up nicely so far. Ran a few packs through the truck today without issue, even at high speed.

    Got some more speed runs footage running 33/76 gearing:

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  31. #71
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    I'd like to know how those diff lockers work out for you. I had a used rustler that came with the diff locked with some kind of glue to keep the gears from moving but I didn't like it. It was hard to control and wanted to spin donuts all the time.

  32. #72
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rraattrroodd View Post
    I'd like to know how those diff lockers work out for you. I had a used rustler that came with the diff locked with some kind of glue to keep the gears from moving but I didn't like it. It was hard to control and wanted to spin donuts all the time.
    In a stock width, length and weight Pede, that's pretty much what the full diff lock will do for you unless you run some seriously grippy tires. In that case, you would be better off with a thicker grease like the diff locking grease from badhorsie.com which will give more of a limited slip feel to the diff.

    Even in the HR P2de the diff locker did take some getting used to, but now that I'm used to it I wouldn't have it any other way. The acceleration of the truck is improved a lot with the diff locked, especially if you run 3s all the time like I do cuz there tends to be a lot of unnecessary wheel spin when using the differential. In a stock width truck, the diff locker will also cause a lot more roll overs as well.

    I tried running a locked diff in one of my other pedes that are closer to stock and it sucks. Lol. In all my other pedes I just run the diff locking grease.

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  33. #73
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    BaldyDaniels, I am running the HR spur 32pitch and the gear cover still fits. I know that 32p is a little over kill for a pede, but I tried it anyway and it worked great. I am running 56/12 I believe and the HR cover fits over that gearing. If I go larger spur or pinion I might run into trouble. The 32p HR gears fit just like the 48p you have above, with the dish shape just like stock spur gears.

    My pede running 32P gearing is so fast and cool at that gearing I am considering staying there for the time being.
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  34. #74
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    double post
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  35. #75
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    Glad to hear the shocks are working great for you. Even with the ten shocks, if I shimmed more on the top than the bottom, I snapped lower shock ends. Now I have things pretty evened up, my shock end issues have gone away. I saw the spacers you use up top on the rear shock tower, but couldn't tell if the lowers were, also. It might help.

    MP, the issue with gearing the CC2400 is that this thing is just starting to wake up with 17/50. The pinion needs to be huge in this case which might cause clearance issues

  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    MP, the issue with gearing the CC2400 is that this thing is just starting to wake up with 17/50. The pinion needs to be huge in this case which might cause clearance issues
    ahh I understand. I just wanted to point out that HR was making 32p gears. spur/pinion combos that fit the stock slipper and that was an option.
    Last edited by MidnightPumpkin; 09-23-2012 at 07:00 PM.
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  37. #77
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Wow. Nice build thread! Subscribed!
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  38. #78
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    Baldy, Thats awesome bro! I love it! Looks absolutly awesome with that new body, and paint. Terrific bro. I love STRC, and those bulkheads are super strong, and I havent hinted of even coming close to bending one. Ive had two STRC hinge pins bend around em, and two screws break off in em, but nothing to the bulkhead. They are terrific.

    Love the shafts man, U should do a detailed report, and how to once u get the right combo so we can follow in ur footsteps. Im especially curious about the MIPs.

    Awesome thread bro!
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  39. #79
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    If the mip shafts are laughing at the diff locker, you may have found the ultimate shaft for the 2wd platforms... The locker will cause 3 to 5x the strain on the shafts compared to an open or mid spec posi diff.

    Just wondering, how do the weights compare between the mip's and integyish shafts? I know the big boy versions of the mip's on my erbe were pigs on weight, but would stand up to 12 lbs with 6s and the biggest tires I could find. I have seen the erbe mip's bend on huge impacts to 1 ft tire, but never from power delivery...
    Last edited by rag6; 09-24-2012 at 05:10 PM.
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  40. #80
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbSoLooT1 View Post
    Baldy, Thats awesome bro! I love it! Looks absolutly awesome with that new body, and paint. Terrific bro. I love STRC, and those bulkheads are super strong, and I havent hinted of even coming close to bending one. Ive had two STRC hinge pins bend around em, and two screws break off in em, but nothing to the bulkhead. They are terrific.

    Love the shafts man, U should do a detailed report, and how to once u get the right combo so we can follow in ur footsteps. Im especially curious about the MIPs.

    Awesome thread bro!
    Thanks bud, ya I'm diggin the strc quality and I'm gonna be ordering a little bit (everything they make for the p2de) from them soon. ;-) I believe I have found the shafts I've been looking for with these mip x-duty's. Its nice that this set I bought doesn't have to be pieced together to work with the protrac kit like the last set I had purchased. I remember tuning into one of paves threads where he explained the parts I needed to get the mips to work with protrac, then after all that hassle ordering extra parts, I ended up shattering a drive cup on them. That's why I was looking to other options for shafts. The reason I decided to go back to the mips is because mip took these shafts back to the drawing board and updated them as well as performed some extensive testing on them using castle creations mamba monster brushless systems maxed out on lipos, so I had more confidence in using them again. I don't have my old mips anymore cuz I gave em to a buddy of mine to use for spare parts for his, but I'm pretty sure these ones have more meat on them and I know they have a lot less play in the splines.

    Sent from Baldy's mind using telekinesis.
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