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  1. #81
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    If the mip shafts are laughing at the diff locker, you may have found the ultimate shaft for the 2wd platforms... The locker will cause 3 to 5x the strain on the shafts compared to an open or mid spec posi diff.

    Just wondering, how do the weights compare between the mip's and integyish shafts? I know the big boy versions of the mip's on my erbe were pigs on weight, but would stand up to 12 lbs with 6s and the biggest tires I could find. I have seen the erbe mip's bend on huge impacts to 1 ft tire, but never from power delivery...

    rag6, Reading your post gave me the moment of clarity I was looking for. I had an understanding that a diff locker added a bit more stress to the shafts, simply because the wheel with grip would still get full power to it, but I had no clue just how much extra force it actually put on the shafts. The education is always appreciated! I also hadn't thought about this added stress since I had started using the diff locker (about a year ago) and completely overlooked It when I was snapping sl4sh shafts like crazy recently. Even when I ordered the new lockers the other day, It didn't dawn on me that this is likely the reason why (besides the massive power plant) I was snapping the shafts so easily. Thanks for bringing this to light, cuz even though I have found the shafts that will take the torque from this brushless system, I am the kind of guy that likes to know exactly what' it is that I just fixed. Lol.

    As for the weight differences of the shafts, geez man! You coulda asked me this BEFORE I put them on the truck! Haha. No worries, I took one off the truck and weighed it up for ya, as this is likely a detail that others are wondering about as well. I also took the weights of the other shafts I have as well for a comparison. All weights are measured in grams, Here ya go:

    Stampede vxl 2wd stock shaft:



    Slash 4x4 stock rear shaft:



    Hpi savage xl shaft *modified*:



    Shiny hardened steel "integyish" cvd:



    Junfac hardened steel cvd:



    Mip x-duty cvd:



    Now that I have run about 20 packs through the HR P2de with the mips installed, I really don't see any reason why I need to destroy the shiny steel shafts by pitting them against the et-2400. They do look like they are built fairly solid, but not 2400kv on 3s solid, if ya know what I mean. ;-)

    I will however, be installing the shiny cvds on the Po-Po-Pede Hummer which is powered by the vxl motor and the castle/dtx esc on 3s lipo, and I will post a review after I've run them for a bit. Same goes for the rcdamper cvds that still haven't arrived yet, cuz I have my doubts that they will even hold up to the vxl on 3s because of the weak looking u joint system they employ.

    I have quite a few more things in the works for the HR p2de yet. So stay tuned! :-P

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  2. #82
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    Nice skizzies, BaldyDaniels. One of my pals has the iPhone version, they have an app for that, lol. Definitely great news in the p2de world as far as axles. Yeah, the 17mm adapter isn't too big deal when you figure the shafts can handle the power as advertised.

  3. #83
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Baldy, That is awesome. Will u do a write up of how to use the MIP shafts with the Pede, and whats required?

    Also, Can they be used with both 17mm and 12mm. The AKA racing 17mm I got, are very similar to the new Traxxas ones u got. Look like near identical size.
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  4. #84
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    great rebuild baldy i do have a question are you showing any sign of wear on the stub axel i know alot of the sl4sh guys were breaking the mips with 17mm hubs and once agian alot of good info in this thread and nice truck

  5. #85
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbSoLooT1 View Post
    Baldy, That is awesome. Will u do a write up of how to use the MIP shafts with the Pede, and whats required?

    Also, Can they be used with both 17mm and 12mm. The AKA racing 17mm I got, are very similar to the new Traxxas ones u got. Look like near identical size.
    I'm not sure that these mip x-duty's need a write up. They are basically plug and play as long as you get the right ones. The ones I have can be used with or without protrac without issue:

    MIP 11104 Heavy Duty Rear CVD Kit Rustler/Stampede/VXL

    As for the 17mm adapters, this is one of the parts where mip states that they upgraded the shafts. The stub axles are now what they call "keyed", which means they no longer have a drive pin for the hex, as the hole for the drive pin was the weak point in the previous versions. This means that the only hex drives that can be used on these x-duty cvds are the keyed hexes made by mip specifically for their new keyed stub axles. The cvds come with keyed aluminum 12mm hexes included in the kit, but if you wanted to run 17mm adapters you would either have to buy the mip keyed 17mm adapters for almost the same price as the cvds, or buy flm 12mm-17mm adapters that fit right over the 12mm hex, or do like I did and just drill a hex drive pin hole in the stub axles and use whatever adapters you want such as the traxxas 17mm or any others. I can understand how eliminating the hex pin would make the stub axle slightly stronger, but I don't think this was the only reason mip decided to change to keyed stub axles. They likely just saw how popular it has become to upgrade to 17mm hex drives and decided that it would be in their best interest (profit-wise) to make keyed axles that wouldn't be compatible with most of the other 17mm adapters currently available. The price of the mip keyed 17mm adapters is pretty steep imo, and I don't feel that the drive pin is very detrimental to the strength of the stub axle as long as there is no slop whatsoever in the wheel hardware.

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  6. #86
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4sdash View Post
    great rebuild baldy i do have a question are you showing any sign of wear on the stub axel i know alot of the sl4sh guys were breaking the mips with 17mm hubs and once agian alot of good info in this thread and nice truck
    I have no signs at all of any wear on the stub axle. Are these guys using the newer keyed axles and keyed 17mm mip adapters, or older style mips with other brands of adapters? Where are the stub axles breaking? I haven't had any troubles so far, hopefully it stays that way for a good while!

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  7. #87
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Strc hinge pins and hot racing locking spool arrived in the mail.



    For the Locker installation, I chose to replace the diff with a brand new one. I also used permanent strength loctite on the grub screws that hold the output drives shaft in the spool.

    A little tip for those who use any type of thread locking compound: Before you apply the thread lock to any of your parts, use some iso/rubbing alcohol to clean the parts first. The greases and oils left on the parts from the milling/manufacturing process and oils used by the manufacturers for rust prevention of the parts before packaging, if not cleaned off, will permeate the locking compound while its in its liquid state and prevent the compound from setting properly. This will make the permanent thread locking compound work about as good as if you had used a grade school glue stick to lock the threads. So if you've ever wondered how your steel mip cvds still fell apart after assembling them with permanent loctite, this is likely the cause. Also make sure to let the compound fully cure before running the parts (usually 24hrs) as this will also weaken the locking compound.





    I also opted to rebuild the entire Transmission as well with all new steel gears, bearings, teflon washers etc.



    Got the new STRC Hinge pins installed too. Love these things cuz they look sweet and are way stronger than stock. Plus they eliminate the need to use any of the annoying e-clips



    Hr 73t spur and Flm 17mm adapters arrived as well:



    As well as the RR 35t pinion



    Here's the Flm 17mm adapters installed, these things are works of art. Beautifully designed, very well made and fit right over your 12mm hex. Oh yeah and the 17mm hex fits way tighter than the traxxas 17mm adapters. These Flm adapters are a perfect match for the keyed axles and hexes that come with the mip x-duty cvds and fit super tight. Because they fit right over the existing 12mm hex, this also makes them wheel.extensions that widen the track of the truck. This wasn't a necessity for me as my truck already has a very wide track, but it is a welcome bonus for sure, cuz imo wider is always a good thing. I'm not a huge fan of the gun metal anodize on the wheel nut cuz it doesn't match anything on my truck so I may remove it and make em silver.



    RR pinion and Hr spur installed. Since I was rebuilding the transmission anyways, I decided to remove the aluminum motor mount plate of the Hot-Racing aluminum trans and give it a quick wet sand and polish to make it shine. Turned out pretty good I think.





    I also replaced all the wheel bearings with new traxxas blue rubber sealed bearings. I also used the traxxas bearings in the transmission and slipper as well. I've always liked the traxxas bearings.

    After receiving the HR metal 73t spur gear, I was browsing ebay for some parts and found that hot racing also makes a 72 tooth metal spur gear, so I ordered that one as well. I'm still waiting for the hot racing aluminum replacement case for the mama max pro esc, I am anxious to see how well it fits and looks. Being aluminum should also help with heat dissipation as well, depending on how thick they made the alloy case.

    I ordered another two sets of ofna mt splits 3.2" wheels to do some experimenting with some different tires. I'm undecided on which tires I will be trying, but I think my first set will be the losi zombie max 320 series tires. Back when they made these tires in emaxx sizes, they were the tire to beat, sporting sweet looks and massive amounts of traction. The 320 series 2.8" zombie max tires are a tad shorter than the trenchers at 4.57" tall and 2.15" wide, but I have enough gearing to compensate for the loss in top speed and I think they will look pretty sick mounted up on some chrome 3.2" mt splits.

    For the other set, I may try some mashers on the mt splits. I have never run mashers yet and a lot of you guys seem to like them a lot, plus they look pretty nice too.

    Thanks for reading!
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  8. #88
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Very nice Badly... Lookin good bro. U run ur tranny that dry? If so, how well has it worked out for ya? Ive run it with white lithium grease...
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  9. #89
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    BaldyDaniels, nice update! After replacing my traxxas bearings with some chepaer Protek? bearings, (10 for $12) I can definitely appreciate the quality of the traxxas bearings. It always nice to replace a handful at a time, tho. It'd also would have been nicer if my lhs had the traxxas ones in stock. It was either Protech or Boca which was $4 a pop.

    My lhs keeps a ten t truggy on display and I think it has those zombie max on them, they do look a little smallish, but if they work, then who cares. If youre interested in going with a shorter tire, HPI put a chevron looking tire in 3.2 on their 4wd stadium truck, the bullet ST, but the mashers are sweet from what Ive heard.

    Looking forward to hearing about your newfound speed achieved, later

  10. #90
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbSoLooT1 View Post
    Very nice Badly... Lookin good bro. U run ur tranny that dry? If so, how well has it worked out for ya? Ive run it with white lithium grease...
    No man, i just took the pics before i lubed em up. I didnt want to have the gears greased while i had the trans open like that, otherwise i might drop dirt or something in there and it would stick. Lol. After assembling the case i add my grease through the opening on the bottom of the trans. I only use a tiny bit of grease, just enough to very lightly coat the gears, but i use very good quality high speed gear and bearing grease. Its made with high lubricity, high adhesion and low tacky, so it causes very little resistance, less wear and wont fling off the gears at high speeds. We use it at work and it comes in 1kg pails, so i just grab a pill bottle full whenever i need it and it lasts a very long time. Its called REACH 580 Teflon Grease for high speed gears and im pretty sure its not cheap, especially since it cant be bought in quantities less than a case of 12 - 1kg cans. Lol
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  11. #91
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Man yall need to at least try some Mashers one time. They are totally sweet. I hope yall would like them as much as LooT and I have, and many others.

    @ Oaks. If you ever get a chance check out Avid Bearings. They are a $1 a pop, and what i've been using for a good while now. Most or all of them come prelubed with their slip bearing oil. Good stuff there. They also offer Slide Grease for them.

    @ Baldy. Sweet! You know it's not right to tease someone like that. I did check it out online.
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  12. #92
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    BaldyDaniels, correct me if I am wrong, but the only plastic you have is the diff case, the a-arms and the rod ends correct? I am only asking because I had a simular setup on my build and the one time that I hit "hard" it took out the a-arm and the traxxas turnbuckle, broke off at the plastic rod end.
    I have only come here seeking knowledge

  13. #93
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidnightPumpkin View Post
    BaldyDaniels, correct me if I am wrong, but the only plastic you have is the diff case, the a-arms and the rod ends correct? I am only asking because I had a simular setup on my build and the one time that I hit "hard" it took out the a-arm and the traxxas turnbuckle, broke off at the plastic rod end.
    I have Plastic protrac arms on front and rear, diff case, rod ends, body mounts, wheels, rpm bumper, servo case, front skid plate, receiver box and esc case. The rest of the truck is alloy. I've had excellent results with this setup and have only had minor breaks like wheels and rod ends. I can tell you that I had way more broken parts when my truck was nearly all plastic, I was even snapping rpm parts quite often. While. Trying to make this truck bulletproof I've used up a lot of parts and a ton of cash, but the setup I have now is well worth all the previous troubles, because now most of my runs end with minimal or no breakages, and I don't hold back when I'm running it. These recent days it has been enduring the added stress from this new brushless system and I've been bashing while geared for 55mph and so far so good. It is pretty intense though.

    The strength of the truck doesn't only come from bolting on the best parts available, it has a lot to do with the setup of those parts. One incorrect or inappropriate setting of one part can be detrimental to all the parts around it. There are guys here that have so much setup experience that they can bash a nearly all plastic pede with minimal breakages, driving skill plays a role there too. All the info needed to build a strong truck and how to set it up and drive it like a champ, resides within this forum, you just have to be willing to search for it and read it all....

    Trial and error can work too when building a strong truck, but it gets pretty costly, trust me on that one. Lol

    Now I'm at the point where my truck is nearly as strong as it ever could be, so now I just throw money at it so I can make it crazy enough to break something else, then ill have another excuse to start the upgrade process again. Haha.

    I have a lot of other rc's but for some strange reason I don't really have much interest in upgrading them to the max like I do my HR P2de. This forum helps in that aspect too, cuz its just a great place to be and full of great people.

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  14. #94
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    Man yall need to at least try some Mashers one time. They are totally sweet. I hope yall would like them as much as LooT and I have, and many others.

    @ Oaks. If you ever get a chance check out Avid Bearings. They are a $1 a pop, and what i've been using for a good while now. Most or all of them come prelubed with their slip bearing oil. Good stuff there. They also offer Slide Grease for them.

    @ Baldy. Sweet! You know it's not right to tease someone like that. I did check it out online.
    I totally agree with Digger.

    @Oaks: Also, Try Fast Eddy Bearings. I get bearings from them that are identical to the Traxxas ones, but the rubber seal is black, instead of blue. Also a buck a pop... I get all my replacement wheelie bar bearings from them, and my new ladies truck is got em.

    @Baldy. Nice man, I use some White Lithium Grease.. I give all the teeth a coating, and after I have opened up the tranny later, it like condenses, and some flys off, but a nice coating stays on, and does it job very well. Good stuff..

    This is right before closing it.. I put it on, than immediatly shut the case too...



    Btw guys, Baldy Check out my new Pede build..... Its not just a spare parts build, its anouther hooked up Pede.. Boo ya
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  15. #95
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    CASTLE LINK QUICK CONNECT RECEIVER BOX

    Got another little package in the mail yesterday, the castle link quick connect adapter.



    It is such a pain to program my ET-3S esc with the castle link adapter due to the waterproof receiver box having to be opened up every time. Personally, i hate messy wiring on my trucks, so when i get it the way i want it, i would prefer if i didnt have to mess with it every time i wanted to program or update the esc using my laptop. I ordered the quick connect adapter, but when i installed it i realized how much i didnt like the look of the link plug hanging out of the receiver box. So i decided to integrate the quick connect adapter into the lid of the traxxas receiver box and flush mount the link plug, leaving only a neat and tidy little port on the front of the lid. Turned out pretty good and looks like it belongs there.



    I also removed the clear plastic from the link adapter and covered it with some shrink tube for a bit more protection. Now whenever i want to program the esc, i just plug the link adapter into the port on my receiver box and hook up the usb cable.





    I really wanted to integrate the castle link adapter into the rx box as well, but having it plugged into the quick connect would cut the signal from the esc to the rx and would require some kind of toggle switch to be installed, which didnt seem to be a very bash friendly solution. Dont want a toggle getting switched or bunking out while tearing down the street at 50mph, that likely wouldnt end well. 😱

    Maybe Traxxas will come up with something like this for future castle equipped models... Hey Traxxas, wanna buy my idea, or maybe gimme a job? Lol

    Thanks for the bearing suggestions guys, im gonna pick up some of both and see which ones last longer for me. I still have the boca ceramics in the transmission of my Velineon Speedrunner p2de and they seem to be holding up well, but i have a hard time trying to justify paying that much for wheel bearings. Besides, theres something very gratifying about installing all brand new bearings in my trucks, so if i can get em for cheap ill just keep replacing them when its needed. I think id be a bit disappointed if the bearings lasted forever cuz ill be running out of upgrades! Yeah right, theres always something bigger and badder coming out, and if nothing new comes out for a while, ill make it myself. 😝


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  16. #96
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    Nice touch Baldy. I dig it! I will probably borrow your idea.

  17. #97
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Baldy, You Rock Dude!!! Sheesh why didn't I think of that??!! BTW good use of the ole squishy. Yet another idea i'm going to have to borrow from you. I dont run in water so doing that mod is an excellent idea. I just left enough hanging out of the Rx box to wrap around the Rr tower. It works great but not as good looking as your idea.

    Hey TRAXXAS get Baldy a job in R&D so he can move to the States and much closer to us!! LOL
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  18. #98
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    Nice idea with the castle link extension. I zip tied mine to something because I didn't know what else to do with it.

    I've never used a spool but I've seen them only in pictures, never installed... I didn't realize it gets installed inside the diff; I thought it took the place of the diff. Thanks for clearing that up for me.
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  19. #99
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    You guys are all welcome to borrow the link ready lid mod idea, im surprised that traxxas hasnt come out with something like this cuz having it handy like this is just as easy and takes the same amount of time as powering up the iphone and truck to use the castle link live. Its too bad that the castle link live doesnt allow for all the esc setup options like the usb link, now that would be tight!

    @diggerpede, as for this mod not being waterproof, well it is. When using the epoxy to adhere the port to the inside of the rx lid, you just have to seal up the openings on the back of the plug, the only thing that would be of concern would be maybe shorting out by water connecting the terminals (if thats even possible?) or corrosion of the contacts.




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  20. #100
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    MORE GOODIES IN THE MAIL TODAY!

    New Traxxas aluminum steering knuckles and rear carriers came today. I opted to replace the ones i have now due wear causing some play in my setup. The old ones will be handed down to another build, or to my nephew who just got hooked on the rustler.



    Was browsing around on ebay and came across some parts lots and snagged this for 5 bucks. I always thought i could never have too many extra rod ends... But yeah, this is too many.



    The new Et-3s came today as well. This one is to be subjected to a bit of "testing". You see, when i plug my dtx/castle element esc into the castle link the name and programming options are specific to the element esc only, BUT, When these et-3s units are plugged into the castle link, they dont come up as a traxxas et-3s, they just come up as the mamba max pro esc. (same model number as well) Funny thing is that the et-3s can be successfully programmed with exactly the same options as the mmp, such as lipo cut off for 6s. Weird right? These et-3s units also have the sensor port on the front just like the mmp, so if it looks like an mmp, can be programmed for 6s like the mmp, and has a sensor port like the mmp, is it an mmp? This is something i would really like to know, and am willing to find out. Especially since the et-3s can be bought for half the price of an mmp esc. I have 3 et-3s escs now and if they will do what an mmp can do, than ill buy as many as i need to power all my trucks. Either way, the et-3s is a powerhouse on 3s, and i only need a couple tqi's to run em all so at 65 bucks shipped theyre a great deal. (especially considering an ezrun 35a is like 50-60). Not only that, but if you wanted to purchase a castle branded 2400 motor, you could end up paying over 120 bucks, but look up the et-2400 motor on ebay and they go for 80 bucks... And its the same darn motor... Go figure. I dont know about any of you, but ill buy traxxas branded mmp 2400kv brushless combos all day long for 145 bucks, even if itll only take 3s max.



    I will get some more pics posted when i get the new carriers installed. Im gonna strip the blue ano off the old ones and polish them up first. If i like the polished look better, i may strip and polish all the blue traxxas parts on my rig. Yes, the motor too. Lol... Maybe, i kinda like the blue can, i just dont have enough other blue parts to set it off.

    Ive got my mind set on mashers for the new tires for my truck. I really want to try 3.2" mashers on 3.8" wheels. Does anyone know of a full 1" offset 3.8" wheel with 17mm hex thats decent? Thats the only way ill achieve enough steering clearance, cuz i dont think even my custom axles would hold up to 3.2 mashers if i had to run wheel extensions. Id go for the masher 2000's on 3.8's but i dont know if the masher 2k is wide enough to be mounted on a 3.8 wheel? What do you guys think?

    Any help would be much appreciated.


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  21. #101
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Good stuff Baldy. I'm really glad you let me know about the ET-3S as i'm using one in my current Rusty build. Last night I got all my electrics connected up and fired away. I ended up yanking the 3.5mm bullets from that ESC and soldering on new 4.0mm Castle ones. I'd much rather use a better connection. Shoot I really love soldering bullets they are way easy. After I tinned my wire and fed the cable inside I filled it with solder for an out of this world connection. I think it took me 10 mins, to cut the old, solder the new, and slap some heat shrink. Came out really good. I'll post some pics of the work tonight, well covered up work that is. LOL

    BTW thanks for the good find. I think they are darn good deals/ steals for that price. I might snag more just to have on hand. Heck it's way cheaper to just buy those than to send in an old MMP for repair, plus the wait time. haha
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  22. #102
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    BTW thanks for the good find. I think they are darn good deals/ steals for that price. I might snag more just to have on hand. Heck it's way cheaper to just buy those than to send in an old MMP for repair, plus the wait time. haha
    Oh for.sure man, 3s is more than enough power for these 2wd trucks anyway, so its hard to find anything to complain about when we're getting a castle/traxxas esc for the same price as an ezrun. I'll post results after I do some testing on the extra et-3s that just came in, maybe we got more of a deal than we think. Either way its been a rock solid esc so far, so even if 3s is the max input I still won't complain for the price.

    You were talking about having better connections, have you seen the wire routing in the traxxas funny car yet? The esc is so far away from the motor that they use extensions for the motor wires. This not only adds up to 6 bullet connections, but also equals a crazy length of esc to motor wires, probably 8-10 inches worth. There's no way all of that wire doesn't rob a good chunk of power from getting to the motor. Especially with the small gauge traxxas brand wire. Those extensions are also the reason why they made the wires so short on the esc, and the et-2400 has crazy short wires as well. Without the extension wires, there is barely enough wire to go through my rear tower and leaves virtually no slack left in the wire. I don't mind though cuz shorter wires means more power gets transferred, and that's always a good thing. ;-)


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  23. #103
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Nice Baldy! Ive been processing something like that myself.. I got a connector that holds the plug to the side of a chassis... I love u did that with ur box though, VERY sweet!!!!

    Also trips me out how there is a capacitor on the wires on this ESC. Where as the Castle Mamba Max Pro doesnt have one. Yet that one is rated at 6S, and this one at 3S so I wonder what all the differences are hardware wise
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  24. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post
    Oh for.sure man, 3s is more than enough power for these 2wd trucks anyway, so its hard to find anything to complain about when we're getting a castle/traxxas esc for the same price as an ezrun. I'll post results after I do some testing on the extra et-3s that just came in, maybe we got more of a deal than we think. Either way its been a rock solid esc so far, so even if 3s is the max input I still won't complain for the price.
    I have the same feeling(s). Like LooT stated it has a capacitor soldered on the bat wires going to the ET-3S. Good for current ripples coming into the ESC. I'm not sure but does the Funny Car come with a Nimh Pack stock?? Might be why they slapped that on there. You know that system is pulling some Amps.

    I got the ET-3S and CC/ HPI Vektor 4000kv rock'n & roll'n yesterday evening after work. I had it binded the night before and did a 5 min test to check motor direction and the servo. But yesterday it was giving me some probs. I had to disable CLL. Then it worked like a kitty. I ran it outside for 20 mins or so. For some reason the lights were staying red, couldnt figure it out. Decided to slap the ole Spektrum DX3S in there and everything worked fine (love the Tx feel). Scratched my head for a little bit. Not sure why the Tx/ Rx (TQi) were blinking red. Oh and the Servo was spiratic. Disconnected that. Still no bueno. Ended up putting the Rx pack on the charger. Slow 1c rate and after about 45 mins i yanked it off. Connected everything back up, batt and all and it was a good as gold. Strange! Guess the pack had run low. It had 3 bars and orange earlier. Whatever the sake it worked, now I'm good to go. I guess a good thing is once it gets low go slap it on the charger. You might want to keep an eye on that. It has been a little while since i've charged it though.

    Heck I like the ET-3S so much I purchased the same ESC and the ET-2400 for my 1/10 Rally 4WD. It'll come in the same day as i get the care or the following hopefully.

    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post
    You were talking about having better connections, have you seen the wire routing in the traxxas funny car yet? The esc is so far away from the motor that they use extensions for the motor wires. This not only adds up to 6 bullet connections, but also equals a crazy length of esc to motor wires, probably 8-10 inches worth. There's no way all of that wire doesn't rob a good chunk of power from getting to the motor. Especially with the small gauge traxxas brand wire. Those extensions are also the reason why they made the wires so short on the esc, and the et-2400 has crazy short wires as well. Without the extension wires, there is barely enough wire to go through my rear tower and leaves virtually no slack left in the wire. I don't mind though cuz shorter wires means more power gets transferred, and that's always a good thing. ;-)
    I've seen the Funny Car in person but havent busted into it. Pics never do anything justice, much rather see with my own eyes. That's good info to know though. You know it has to be starving the setup with smaller connectors and a mile of wire. Could you imagine if they were way closer together.

    Did you change out the bullets to 4.0mm ones? I think they might help it a little to. The 4.0mm ones would add a little more Amp current. I think the 13awg is ok, it's the same as the MMP 2400kv I believe.

    You know the other night I connected the ET-3S to the PC and I see all the same options as the MMP. Other than the CLL toggle on the top of the options. Heck in the list it offers Sensored. So i'm taking it for granted it does offer that option like it's other brother. I can't test this for sure as I don't have any sensored motors.

    As I stated above I think i'm going to enable CLL back, since I found out late before I about fellout going to bed that the Tx pack was nearly dead. I'm hoping that the bat was to low to transmit info to and fro.


    Yo Loot I think you should pick up one of these in the very near future. Maybe before many others do the same. Hope they stay at their rock bottom price. Heck I WON an auction last night for one at $53.50 + $5 to ship. You can't pick up an ESC with options like that on it for such a good price. I also WON another aution for an ET-2400 for $100 + $2.50 ship. Won both from same seller within minutes, sent a message to combine shipping and walla. He responded back to ship both for $7.50. Not really bad. I was hoping to pick up the motor for a little less. Ah well.
    Last edited by DiggerPede; 10-20-2012 at 07:09 AM.
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  25. #105
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    That looks great!!

  26. #106
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    SMALL UPDATE

    Finally got more gearing options in the mail, these ones took forever to get here for some reason.





    This is the 43/72 gearing installed:





    Its a beautiful thing that there are smaller spurs available, because at 43/72 there is still enough room to go up a couple teeth on the pinion without modifying the transmission in any way. I think 45/72 will be the max before i need to elongate the motor mount slot, but i may not need to go higher than that if i hit the top speed I'm aiming for.

    Whats even crazier is that you would think that the truck would become sluggish at some point with such tall gearing, but i can still wheelie on command at any speed, the wheelies just come up slightly slower than before. I kinda like how the wheelies come up gradually, it reminds me of a 1:1 muscle car doing a wheel-stand off the line.

    As much as i would love to go out and get some top speed run footage of the new gearing, unfortunately my dry ground bashing days are done for a while, we got hit with almost a foot and a half of snow this weekend.

    At least i have the Sno-P2de to keep me bashing a pede for the winter. Also got a set of 4 paddle tires for the P4de, so that should be fun to try as well.

    Oh yeah, and i also received my 4th and 5th et-3s esc's and my 3rd et-2400 motor. This motor is green, so its gonna be the one i strip the anodising off and polish up.

    Hey Digger, Remember earlier in this thread were talking about the long wire extensions from the Funny Car that would rob power from the system? Well this last Funny Car system i got, came with the extensions incuded and the total length of the leads from esc to motor is 18"!! Check it out:



    Notice how Traxxas and Castle keep changing little things on the et-3s esc's And et-2400 motors. The blue motors have all black wires while the green have the colored. Then one esc has the red white and black shrink tube on it while the other has the VXL motor colors on it, almost as if they plan to have it paired with a VXL motor. And yes, the colors are in the correct order to directly hook up a vxl motor to run in the correct rotation, and the vxl motor runs superb with the et-3s esc with minimal cogging at low speed.


    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...the-HR-P2de-XL...
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  27. #107
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Dude that is sweet. I'm like you I really like the ET-3S and ET-2400's. When they first started shipping the Funny Cars they were green can motors. Not sure how many were shipped with that setup. Hopefully all the internals of the motor are the same and not to lower specs like what HPI does. You just can't beat the cost of those parts though. I'll keep buying them as long as they keep performing.

    BTW that is one long cable extension. LOL I cut the stock 3.5mm bullets and upgraded to 4.0mm ones. Now that you mention it, I think one of my ESC's had the black shrink ant the other had the multicolored.
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  28. #108
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    NEW BOOTS!

    Got a nice big box at the post office on friday that contained the new 3.2" Mt splits and 3.2" Masher tires. Although I love the mt splits, i really wasnt too pleased when i saw these ones. Whoever the flunky is that did the chrome dip on these ones did an absolutely terrible job of it. There are marks indented on the beads of the wheels from the clamps that hold the wheel during the process being tightened to much. Then there are areas on the wheel where the plating is so thick it formed an edge off the outer bead of the wheel. Then on top of that, they used the lime green wheels and near the inner side of the wheel the plating is so thin (or not there at all) that the lime green shows through and reflects off the other chrome making the wheel look green. I only pay 20 bucks and 5 bucks shipping for the set of 4, so its not really worth sending them back, but i will be sending an email with pics to ofna and to the seller. Im gonna try dying them black, cuz even if the chrome wont take the dye, at least the green will be black and wont show up like such an eyesore. Unless someone knows how to remove the chrome without damaging the plastic? I still have a set of white mt splits on the way, as well as the 2.2 mashers that i plan to trim to fit, so ill be dying those wheels black.



    The Masher 3.2's are pretty big at 5.5" tall and 3.3 wide which is hard to believe because the monster jam tires are 5.3" tall and 2.7" wide, yet look at the difference when they are side by side:



    The mashers arent quite as big as the maxx chevrons which are 5.75" tall and 3.5" wide:



    I mocked them up on the ofna wheels and i have to say that i like it, i like it a lot! The dodge truck body and my truck's wide track provide more than enough clearance for steering at all levels of suspension travel. So all in all i am very satisfied with the look of the big mashers on the HR P2de xl, which makes me more confident about the 2.2's and mt splits i want to try on the P4de. Only time will tell how i feel about their performance. Have a look:









    See the green in that last pic? Weak...

    Oh yeah and can you see what the next issue is in this next pic?



    Yeah, i tried stuffing one of them gigantic foams into the tire, nearly impossible to get them to be evenly distributed inside the tire and the sidewalls push out so far that it would be an extremely tough procedure to glue the tires. Whats up with that? These are the first proline tires ive bought where the foams have to be cut to fit. Plus these foams look kinda budget, especially compared to the foams that come with road rage tires which are custom formed to the contour of the tire and fit so perfectly that every bit of tire has foam behind it. (the RR foams are super dense and very heavy though). Even my trencher foams fit perfectly without trimming, same with the sand paws, badlands and a few others ive purchased in the past. Those masher foams are pretty dense too, which would make the tires pretty solid if i could manage to get them stuffed in the tires. Do all sizes of the mashers come with massive foams like these?




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  29. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post

    I'm still waiting for the hot racing aluminum replacement case for the mama max pro esc, I am anxious to see how well it fits and looks. Being aluminum should also help with heat dissipation as well, depending on how thick they made the alloy case.
    hey baldy eny word on the hr mmp case?
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  30. #110
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reod12x2 View Post
    hey baldy eny word on the hr mmp case?
    Yes, i received the aluminum case and found out that the sellers ad was a little misleading. The ad said it was for the mamba max esc and had no dimentions listed in the description. It was hard to tell the size of it from the pictures, but when i got it i then realized that it is for the mamba max monster esc. No worries though because i bought a MMM during the black friday sale for $120 and it should be here on monday or tuesday and i will be using the esc on this truck. By the time the streets are dry enough to run this truck again, i will be itching like crazy to drive the HR P2de with the new MMM and Masher tires! Ive already purchased some series adapters in anticipation of some 4s and 5s lipo speed runs and have been looking at another motor capable of 6s runs too. lol I'm already having withdrawls from not being able to run this truck, but at least ive got my P4de build and my Sleet-Racer Funny Car build for running in the snow.




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  31. #111
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    Baldy, you are my hero dude! Man, it's nice and dry down here in Louisiana. Bashin and speed runs year round. No hills though and that kinda sucks. Curious to know what kind of top speed you are aiming for?

  32. #112
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirty don View Post
    Baldy, you are my hero dude! Man, it's nice and dry down here in Louisiana. Bashin and speed runs year round. No hills though and that kinda sucks. Curious to know what kind of top speed you are aiming for?
    Thanks man. I have no set goal for top speed, im just gonna get the truck to go as fast as i can make it go. It does 55mph in a fairly short stretch on 3s geared 33/76, and i currently have it geared at 43/72 so i imagine it'll rip pretty good on 5s with this gearing. I remember a couple years back when the big question on the forums was "whats the best gearing that will give both highspeed running and bashing capability?" Back then there wasnt a gearing ratio that could provide both, and there still isnt one. This is because it was the vxl combo limiting the capabilities for both options. With the 2400 motor geared at 33/76 i had massive torque, zero heat issues when bashing the truck and could pull 55mph just by mashing the throtte while running a body (ford f250 super duty) with very little aerodynamics and trencher tires. I'm not just trying for a certain top speed like most trucks that have been set up for speed runs that are lowered and more aerodynamic. I want to see how fast i can get this thing to go while set up for bashing and only changing the gearing and batteries.

    Even though i have several P2des that are set up for each purpose, I want the HR P2de to do both because i like bashing and i also enjoy doing speed runs and I take this truck with me when i work out of town. Taking more than one truck with me just isnt an option that makes sense, so i need it to do both so i can always get my fix. I have already accomplished this with the 33/76 0n 3s and now im just having some fun seeing how fast i can get it to go while set up for bashing.


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  33. #113
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    IT NEVER ENDS!!

    Got me some more goodies to add to The HR P2de XL.

    I had purchased a couple of all aluminum receiver boxes from integy, yes i said integy. For durability upgrades, i would never even bother looking at an integy part, but for a part that will be used strictly for its looks, they do have some real purty parts. One receiver box has been installed on my p4de and the other one on this truck. I like the look and the function of the box cuz its nice and shiny, and it allows for hidden servo and esc wire leads. I had to relocate the new receiver box to the front of the chassis for obvious reasons that you will see in the following pics and upgrade descriptions. I rigged up some mounts for the box using some aluminum stand offs i had laying around that i polished up for the occasion. The TQi receiver is too wide to fit laying down so i fastened it with velcro to the inner side of the box for easy removal and access to the ports. The lid of the box has a rubber seal to keep dust out and can be made to be fully waterproof by putting a dot of silicone on the wire exit holes after the wires are in place. The box is made for the HPI nitro Firestorm, but is a perfect replacement for the Traxxas stock sealed box, as the mounting holes even line up the same on the stock p2de esc mounting plate and the p4de chassis, all thats needed is longer screws.



    Next up is another strictly cosmetic part. I stumbled across a chrome end-bell cover while browsing on eBay. Had no clue if it would fit because there were no dimensions listed, but for the 3 bucks i paid for it i figured it was worth a try. The opening for the motor wires had to be made larger to accommodate the wires of the 1415 that i covered with shrink tube for protection. Other than that it slipped right on and snapped into place nicely. It is made by speed passions and had their logo in the middle, so i just removed the decal.



    This next upgrade was a spur of the moment purchase during the final hour of the black friday sale at Castle Creations. When i saw the Mamba Monster esc on sale for $120, well there was no way i was gonna pass that up. I had already (accidentally) purchased the Hot-Racing aluminum mount for it, so i figured why not? If you cant tell how pumped i am about the extra lipo cell input, check out the battery lead. If it were summer weather I'd already be doing 5s lipo speed runs! This esc is a massive chunk of electronics, and required the relocation of the receiver box. It just didn't look right sitting in front or behind the receiver box because of the wiring. I routed the esc to receiver lead through a channel i cut into the foam pad for the battery. Thanks to the new receiver box, all my receiver leads are completely out of sight. The wire gauge of this Monster is much larger than the ET-2400 (1415) motor wires and looked strange when coupled in the middle, so i shortened the motor wires and added a couple layers of shrink tube to the remaining wire to match it up. I also swapped out the small Traxxas bullets in favor of some larger castle ones, as the Monster wiring wouldn't even fit in the small Traxxas bullets.





    I should note that Castle Creations states that their motor wires Should never be shortened due to the wiring not being solderable, and therefore may render the motor useless. The wire leads of my ET-2400 are not lacquer coated solid core wire, it was just regular wire, similar to the Traxxas Maxx cable and soldered up without issue. Be sure to check with your motors' manufacturer BEFORE attempting to replace or shorten your brushless motor wires unless there is solder tabs provided on the motor (like the vxl motor).

    Some other things i added:

    New all silver FLM 17mm adapters, the old set had black/brownish anodized wheel nuts for some reason, i haven't come across another set with the anodized nuts so maybe they were a limited production.



    Also installed the new Robinson Racing hard coated aluminum 43 tooth pinion to mesh with the Hot-Racing hardened steel 72 tooth spur gear, which should make for some fairly quick 4s & 5s lipo speed passes. I still have enough room for a couple more pinion teeth, so i also have a 45t RR pinion on hand if i need it.

    I found some new low-pro rubber street style tires at the dollar store which fit perfectly on the Traxxas aluminum Wheelie bar wheels. At 4 for a buck, i don't have to be concerned about losing any.

    Swapped out a couple of the HR transmission motor plate heat-sinks with a couple blue ones from my other HR carbon plastic/aluminum plate transmission for some extra blue highlights to match the other blue parts.



    I also completely removed the chassis and sanded out most of the scratches from bashing this year, the got out the Mothers polish and power ball for the cordless drill and made the chassis shiny again. Also did a quick pass with the sand paper and polish on the swami-bar... After i removed it and gave it a bit of straightening... Again.









    In the process of masking up a new HPI GT-2 body for paint cuz i can never have too many bodies. The gt-2 is one of my all time faves, and the old one is pretty much hooped. I still haven't run the blue 2002 Dodge Ram body yet, so after the new gt-2 is done i will decide which one I'm gonna destroy first.

    Well thats all for this round of goodies. I was bummed before about not being able to run this truck because of all the snow we got, but after adding the new Mamba Monster, I'm considering a trip to somewhere i can really open it up and see what this truck can do! Lol

    Thanks for reading! Always more to come!


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  34. #114
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    Man that truck must weigh a ton, heh! I recently added a bunch of stuff to my SL4SH to make it look just like a maxx and i notice with all the extra weight , i tend to pick up the truck with two hands, i bet u do the same with that beast

  35. #115
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dugsguns View Post
    Man that truck must weigh a ton, heh! I recently added a bunch of stuff to my SL4SH to make it look just like a maxx and i notice with all the extra weight , i tend to pick up the truck with two hands, i bet u do the same with that beast
    Heavy? Nah man, its only a mere 8.2lbs without the battery and body. Lol The 3.2" mashers add a lot to the total weight and although they look sweet, i think im gonna put them on my sons Emaxx and get some of the new 2.8" mashers and trim them to fit the ofna 3.2" wheels. I like the size of the 3.2 mashers and im not at all worried about being underpowered due to the extra weight, but i dont think my suspension arms and steering components will put up with a tire that heavy for very long, especially with the way i drive my truck.

    No need to use two hands to pick it up or haul it around when running an rpm slash 2wd front bumper, its like adding a luggage handle to the front of the truck and makes it easy to carry. Plus, i bash with my 5 year old son and he has a bit of trouble carrying his emaxx around, so i usually end up carrying both trucks as well as my tx, so although i would prefer to carry the truck with two hands its hardly ever an option.




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  36. #116
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Baldy, surprised there is not a retractable luggage handle so you can drag it along on the wheelie bar lol... Looking better and better!
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  37. #117
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Baldy, oh man... That looks terrific. I have loved seeing how far this truck has come along. Looks fantastic, and ur gonna LOVE that mamba monster im sure. Thing is a beast... Also love the look of those massive tires, and how clean and unique ur truck looks.... Only thing left on ur truck that is still from a pede is the front skid, and internal tranny gears very awesome my friend.

    Looks like ur Y connection, wires are much shorter. I made my own connections, and purchased some 10awg wiring from Castle so it matched real nice like... Ya should check it out. That way u dont get that bottle neck(if its there)

    Btw. Love that u said, I purchased the Mamba Monster mount, so now I had to buy the Mamba Monster.lol. Its like, well, since I purchased the 6 dollar piece, might as well purchase the 120-200 dollar ESC to go with it LOVE your RC Logicality! Sounds like someone I know too!

    As always...... Wonderful job
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  38. #118
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    ooo.. btw. how do u find all these tires for the wheelie bar wheels ? man oh man.. They always fit so perfect... U carry around an upgraded wheelie bar wheel in ur pocket in case u come across one eh?
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  39. #119
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    Man does that thing shine! Looks great Baldy. Loving your new upgrades.

  40. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Baldy, surprised there is not a retractable luggage handle so you can drag it along on the wheelie bar lol... Looking better and better!
    Thanks man.

    I like that idea! Any idea which luggage handles are as durable as an rpm bumper? Lol







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