Results 1 to 27 of 27

Thread: Bearing Kits?

  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Riverton Utah
    Posts
    4,115

    Bearing Kits?

    Hey guys, I need to replace some of my bearings on my slayer because ther're getting really gritty... I went to rcplanet.com to see how much it would cost to replace EVERY bearing on my slayer, and the grand total is... $90!!! Really? That much? I could get a full set of boca green seal bearings for the same price... does anyone know where I can get good, sealed bearings (NOT CERAMICS) for less than $50? I want to replace all of the bearings all at once so I will have lots of spares for the future... Thanks for the help!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    the middle of nowhere
    Posts
    419
    If youre happy with oem bearings check the eBay chop shops. Check your parts list to see what sizes and quantities you need, certain models may have more bearings but extras can be used down the road as spares.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    18,370
    Avid Revolutions series $1.00 per bearing. 1 side rubber sealed for the dirty side 1 side metal shield for increased efficiency.... The only bearings I will use are Avids.
    Founder of H.U.A.
    Hop Ups Anonymous

  4. #4
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tanker 822
    Posts
    9,407
    I second the Avids. They do have a full bearing kit for around $35 or so.
    The Super Derecho

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Riverton Utah
    Posts
    4,115
    I second the Avids. They do have a full bearing kit for around $35 or so.
    I looked on Avid.com, and I can't find a bearing kit for the slayer for the life of me... Do you know where I can find one? Do you have a link? Thanks!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    18,370
    They have kits but not specifically for the Slayer. You could email them from their contact page and ask. I know sometimes they will put one together for you or suggest a kit that will work for you. http://www.avidrc.com/company/contact/

    Founder of H.U.A.
    Hop Ups Anonymous

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Riverton Utah
    Posts
    4,115
    Ok, thanks!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  8. #8
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tanker 822
    Posts
    9,407
    Last time I checked the Slayer is very similar to the Revo.
    The Super Derecho

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Riverton Utah
    Posts
    4,115
    I thought about that, does anyone know if there is any differnce in bearings sizes or number between the slayer and revo? Thanks!




    EDIT: Never mind, Avid emailed me back, and they made a kit just for me that is made just for the Slayer Pro! Now, the hard part, to deside weather to get the half metal and half rubber ones, or the all rubber ones....
    Last edited by Wolfslash16; 08-23-2012 at 01:21 AM.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  10. #10
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tanker 822
    Posts
    9,407
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    I thought about that, does anyone know if there is any differnce in bearings sizes or number between the slayer and revo? Thanks!
    When I have any questions regarding parts, I consult the exploded views of each. That is how I built my 5308 Revo from 4908 T-Maxx parts.
    The Super Derecho

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    18,370
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    I thought about that, does anyone know if there is any differnce in bearings sizes or number between the slayer and revo? Thanks!

    EDIT: Never mind, Avid emailed me back, and they made a kit just for me that is made just for the Slayer Pro! Now, the hard part, to deside weather to get the half metal and half rubber ones, or the all rubber ones....

    The Revolutions are worth it IMHO.... Wouldn't use anything else...
    Founder of H.U.A.
    Hop Ups Anonymous

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Riverton Utah
    Posts
    4,115
    Ok, I'll get the Revolutions, Thanks!!!!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Usquam sed hic
    Posts
    1,567
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    Hey guys, I need to replace some of my bearings on my slayer because ther're getting really gritty... I went to rcplanet.com to see how much it would cost to replace EVERY bearing on my slayer, and the grand total is... $90!!! Really? That much? I could get a full set of boca green seal bearings for the same price... does anyone know where I can get good, sealed bearings (NOT CERAMICS) for less than $50? I want to replace all of the bearings all at once so I will have lots of spares for the future... Thanks for the help!
    Have you recently run through a lot of sand and dust?
    My bearings always get 'gritty' and drag after running through dirt and I'm sure spraying the truck down afterwards helps a lot
    But after a run through the grass, and if I don't use a fluid to clean the truck after running through grass or pavement they eventually stop grinding. (About a run usually).
    I'm aware that this is not the best thing to do to them but I've kept the same Traxxas bearings on a truck for 4 yrs. I've never cleaned them or anything.
    Try giving it another run on a clean surface, and then clean them out.
    Hope that helps.
    Matthew 7:7

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Riverton Utah
    Posts
    4,115
    Have you recently run through a lot of sand and dust?
    My bearings always get 'gritty' and drag after running through dirt and I'm sure spraying the truck down afterwards helps a lot
    But after a run through the grass, and if I don't use a fluid to clean the truck after running through grass or pavement they eventually stop grinding. (About a run usually).
    I'm aware that this is not the best thing to do to them but I've kept the same Traxxas bearings on a truck for 4 yrs. I've never cleaned them or anything.
    Try giving it another run on a clean surface, and then clean them out.
    Hope that helps.
    Thanks, I'll see if that helps! I not sure, but I think most of the ball inside the bearings are chipped up, because even if I take both rubber shield of and clean it and re-lube it, it's still a little gritty, who knows...
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  15. #15
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Delta, Pa.
    Posts
    1,769
    Good bearings cheap. Here is the answer. Ebay. Look for the bearing size. get them in lots of 10. I bought 10 each of every bearing for less than $45 shipped. It just takes 2 to 3 weeks to get them.

  16. #16
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Usquam sed hic
    Posts
    1,567
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    Thanks, I'll see if that helps! I not sure, but I think most of the ball inside the bearings are chipped up, because even if I take both rubber shield of and clean it and re-lube it, it's still a little gritty, who knows...
    Yeah that could be the case, but if I were in your shoes I'd give the truck a good long multiple tank run on a clean surface.
    Couldn't hurt
    Matthew 7:7

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    18,370
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    Thanks, I'll see if that helps! I not sure, but I think most of the ball inside the bearings are chipped up, because even if I take both rubber shield of and clean it and re-lube it, it's still a little gritty, who knows...
    This is what I do, I remove 1 rubber shield, I have a teab ball infuser from the grocery store, I fill a jar with Naptha, take my bearings minus the one shield and put them into the tea ball lock it up, put it in the jar, every now and then I agitate them in the jar pulling the chain up and down, take them out, hit them with compressed air, before lubing you should feel the bearings but no grit, if you do,,, repeat the process... If they still aren't smooth... Time for some new ones....


    OH, and cheap bearings,,,,, Went that route once, when they start failing on you randomely, espcially like in your diff or tranny where you will eat gears and pinions... I'll pass.... I prefer being on the track instead of wrenching on the pit table.... Just not worth the chance if you ask me....
    Founder of H.U.A.
    Hop Ups Anonymous

  18. #18
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Delta, Pa.
    Posts
    1,769
    With the cheap bearings I have noticed no loss of quallity or performance. I do take a few precautions before using them though. I also remove the sheilds prior to first use. I put a little grease inside the bearing then reinstall the sheild. I leave just a little grease on the outside of the bearing. When installed I make sure a little grease is covering the exposed parts of the bearing. The extra grease catches the dirt before it has the chance to enter the inside of the bearing. Dirt and friction is the cause of bearing failure. External grease takes care of the dirt, Internal grease takes care of the friction. I also tried the more expensive bearings. And they do last. But the only difference is a little grease is used on the more expensive ones. A pennies worth of grease is not worth a couple dollars to me to have preinstalled. But everybody has there own methods to the madness. I just know that cheap bearings need some extra lube to start with. Since buying and installing the cheap ones. I havent had too much wrench time. Other than just general maintenance. I have had the high dollar bearings fail just the same as the cheap ones though. It all boils down to where you run it. And how you take care of it when your done running it. Keeping it as clean as possible goes a long ways.

  19. #19
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Grafenwoehr Germany
    Posts
    1,304
    I use an ultrasonic cleaner with ether wd40 or denatured alcohol to clean mine it works great

  20. #20
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Delta, Pa.
    Posts
    1,769
    I was wondering about using an ultrasonic cleaner. Do you have to remove the shields when cleaning?

  21. #21
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Grafenwoehr Germany
    Posts
    1,304
    I dont always and it does a really good job just have to make sure u dry them off good and re lube them

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Gettin' Lucky In KY
    Posts
    3,861
    The only bearing size difference I know of that is different than stock is if you run aftermarket Axle Carriers. Most of them use an oversized bearing compared to stock but the company usually specifies what size they are.

    What I use to clean my bearings is the RPM bearing blaster. Nice little cleaning tool IMO. I clean mine out then lightly pack one side of the bearing with regular automotive grease.

  23. #23
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Delta, Pa.
    Posts
    1,769
    Quote Originally Posted by CarGuy7a View Post
    The only bearing size difference I know of that is different than stock is if you run aftermarket Axle Carriers. Most of them use an oversized bearing compared to stock but the company usually specifies what size they are.

    What I use to clean my bearings is the RPM bearing blaster. Nice little cleaning tool IMO. I clean mine out then lightly pack one side of the bearing with regular automotive grease.
    When you use the grease do you notice the time between cleanings is longer?

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Gettin' Lucky In KY
    Posts
    3,861
    Quote Originally Posted by Powerman View Post
    When you use the grease do you notice the time between cleanings is longer?
    Yes. I usually tear my truck completely down once a year for cleaning and servicing the bearings. But I don't run my truck as much as others due to my extensive RC fleet. I go through maybe 1 gallon per summer. The bearings will seem stiff at first when packed with grease but they free up after a few minutes on the first run.

  25. #25
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Delta, Pa.
    Posts
    1,769
    I dont run the nitros as often as I used to either. But the same applies to all the cars. Keep them clean and lubed. And the cheap bearings will be just fine. I would rather spend my money on better hop ups than high dollar bearings. Most malfunctions and failures are preventable by doing a little maintenance.

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Gettin' Lucky In KY
    Posts
    3,861
    The funny thing is. I've tried quite a few different brands of bearings. Mostly for clutch bell bearings. I've tried stock, Acer ceramic bearings specially made for nitro clutch bells, and a few others I can't remember. They all failed on me within 3 tanks from being brand new and lubed by myself before installing. The only bearing that I have not had fail are the ones from Avid bearings, and yes they are the cheapo $1 a piece bearings. I was absolutely blown away. I never would have thought that a $1 bearing would outlast all the others.

    All I did with the Avid clutch bell bearings I put in was remove one rubber seal and put a little grease in it, and they have not been serviced or cleaned in over a gallon and haven't failed yet.
    Last edited by CarGuy7a; 08-25-2012 at 08:35 PM.

  27. #27
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Delta, Pa.
    Posts
    1,769
    Quote Originally Posted by CarGuy7a View Post
    The funny thing is. I've tried quite a few different brands of bearings. Mostly for clutch bell bearings. I've tried stock, Acer ceramic bearings specially made for nitro clutch bells, and a few others I can't remember. They all failed on me within 3 tanks from being brand new and lubed by myself before installing. The only bearing that I have not had fail are the ones from Avid bearings, and yes they are the cheapo $1 a piece bearings. I was absolutely blown away. I never would have thought that a $1 bearing would outlast all the others.

    All I did with the Avid clutch bell bearings I put in was remove one rubber seal and put a little grease in it, and they have not been serviced or cleaned in over a gallon and haven't failed yet.
    I went thru the same thing. I bought the ACER and Boca bearings thinking that they cost SOOOO much more they have to be great. Blew out just as fast as the stock traxxas ones. Been using the cheap china 10 packs for a while now. Its nice having a bunch of extra bearings in the pit box. That way you can help out the guy at the pit who just blew out there extra special super duty $12 dollar a piece bearing. Just because it costs more and has hot chicks on their website. Doesnt make them better. It just means they have great marketing skills. It takes more than a teenage girl holding a bearing to pull that kind of money out of my pocket. Not that I havent fell for that type of marketing before and got the same end results.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •