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  1. #1
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    Strongest aftermarket axles for revo?

    Hey guys I like to run 6s lipos in my revo. I have broken three axels already with 1 of those being the traxxas cvd axles. Anyone know of any good aftermarket axle that can handle the 6s lipo like the hpi flux can?
    Any help would be great
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  2. #2
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    I was running Summit shafts on 6s with 18/54 gearing. Didn't have an issue with that at all.

    Couple months ago I upgraded to MIP CVDs and haven't had an issue with those either with same batts and gearing. I mostly do speed runs on asphalt so I'm full throttle 95% of the time.

  3. #3
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    Those look good I do more bashing then street stuff. Thanks man.

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  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    I run 6s and love full throttle speed runs and bash hardcore...I run summit & yes they break. They hold up well thou to 6s and are cheap and easy to replace.
    Rock n Rolla !

  5. #5
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    Just got the mips I will see how they hold up.

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  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    what rockers are you using? (LT)?
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  7. #7
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    How tight is your slipper clutch? It's your friend when running 6's.

  8. #8
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    Worlds strongest axels for a revo? Get the TVR ball-x axel. Those should last you a lifetime of 6s use.


    New sig: Dr. Octogonapus
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  9. #9
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    have you used them yet?

    they are awful expensive!
    ERBE Summit E-Slayer
    EMBE
    Rustler
    P4DE Sl4sh

  10. #10
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    I've always had good luck with MIP products, I just threw MIP spline CVD's on all 4 corners with Traxxas center CVD's. It runs much smoother than it did, surprised how much of an improvement it is to be honest.

  11. #11
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    can someone please post a link to the ball axles.the guy at my lhs showed me them in a magazine and they looked very strong

  12. #12
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    http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=290741541302

    I haven't used them, but yea, there are expensive. A buddy of mine runs 5s on his MMM e Maxx and love to do backflips. Already managed to bend a traxxas CVD. No clue how he did it though. I saw a review of the ball x axels in an RCDriver magazine and they look promising. If you have the money, go for it!

    I havent had very good luck with the MIP. The stupid dog bone pin keeps flying out and then I realize I'm only
    In 2wd which is pretty fun to drive and e Maxx with. There for both the e Maxx and e revo since they are the same driveline.


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  13. #13
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    wow i almost bought them until i saw it is 105.00 just for 2 axles.if it had been all 4 i would have done it.oh well and thanks for the link badmilkman

  14. #14
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    No prob. You asked for the worlds strongest axles, i kinda forgot to mention price I would just go with either the traxxas Cvds or the MIPS. Do you do a lot of backflips?


    New sig: Dr. Octogonapus
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  15. #15
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    holy cow...that's only for two???...dog nab it...hmmm...gonna work on the chassis first...then diff...then these...by the time i'm done...definitely over 1K...

  16. #16
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    Lol. I hope their true to their name. If it was $115 for all 4 I would totally go for it. But 2? No. That and you have to assemble them! Interesting way of building one though with the ball bearings...


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  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Those are some expensive axles...not sure I would want to use my truck for that price (lol)
    Rock n Rolla !

  18. #18
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    hey...if ur in this hobby...ur already spending big bucks for cheap thrills...what's a couple of more hundred dollars...ur gonna just blow it anyways...might as well blow it on this and say...yeap...i've got the best of the best.

  19. #19
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    Lol what he said^^^ haha....I use some cvds I found on eBay if u type in 16.8v cvd u can find them I used the 14.4v ones on my old 3906 when I had it brushless and they held up great and there rebuildable

  20. #20
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    Hello all,

    Just received a set of the Ball-X axles. They're beautifully made and come pre-assembled. I've fitted them with the Tekno RC TKR10144 stub axles for zero-slop with 17mm hexes. Needed a tiny bit of grinding to make them fit. The axles themselves are 5mm diameter and seem to be very strong. The orange rubber boots are tough and pretty easy to fit. These are the axles I've been waiting for!





    They're at least as strong as the MIP splines but if you want to run 17mm hexes with them, you need to use the Traxxas adaptor which, IMHO, wears out very quickly and you get loads of slop.

    Downsides:

    1. Using dogbone diff outdrives seems like a backward step to me. They're well-designed but give me Rush-Evo Flashbacks!. I've suggested that TVR might make a second ball-based diff outdrive as an option.

    2. TVR specifically state that you shouldn't replace the balls with other aftermarket balls because it'll wear out the ball race cage. This implies that the balls are rather soft. Time will tell if they're too soft!

    Cheerz!

    Rootz

    Quote Originally Posted by BadMilkMan View Post
    Lol. I hope their true to their name. If it was $115 for all 4 I would totally go for it. But 2? No. That and you have to assemble them! Interesting way of building one though with the ball bearings...


    New sig: Dr. Octogonapus
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    I've been "edited for content" ie deleted.

  21. #21
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    I went with the MIP Splie CVDs specifically to eliminate dogbone outdrives, I dislike them very much, especially at that kind of power.

  22. #22
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    Why are dog bone out drives not liked?

  23. #23
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    They have the potential to pop out if the a-arms flex too much and the outdrives aren't long enough. I've had rocks end up in them and bind up the shaft so it wouldn't spin. The outdrives for me wore out long before other components.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootzMan View Post
    Needed a tiny bit of grinding to make them fit.





    They're at least as strong as the MIP splines but if you want to run 17mm hexes with them, you need to use the Traxxas adaptor...
    Cheerz!

    Rootz
    since i am a newbie here...don't pretend that i'm a newbie but actually realize that i am a newbie and explain very very slowly with lots of pictures please....i is atupid...

    so what do u mean by a little grinding?...what did u have to grind to make it fit?...and umm...what do u mean by the 17mm hex thing...aren't all the e-revo brushless already running 17mm hex?

  25. #25
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    Oooh Kay.

    The standard E-Revo hexes are 14mm. The hexes fit onto a stub axle that's 6mm diameter with M5 thread on the end and the wheel is kept on with an M5 nut...



    So, we're talking about the silver bit on the end, yeah?

    If you want to use wheels with 17mm hexes - There's a pretty big choice, mainly intended for truggies etc - you'd usually use the Traxxas adaptor..



    ... and the matching 17mm nut; the blue bits on the end. These are standard on the E-Revo Brushless ( ERBE ).

    These nuts have a habit of working loose. The M5 thread is no longer used. You can see the end of the axles in the middle of the adaptors in this pic..



    ...and there's a gap of about 1mm between the inside of the adaptor and the thread. The result of this is that there's play between the axle and the hex and the wheel wobbles around on the axle. Only maybe 1 or 2 mm to start but the thread works around inside the aluminium adaptor and wears the hole so that the slop gets progressively worse. IMHO, it's not a good piece of design. Probably because of the original design, based on 14mm hexes and they wanted a quick'n'dirty way of fitting 17mm hexes. Far as I know, all after-market axles for the Revo use more or less the same arrangement...



    ...which, of course, has exactly the same slop-and-wear problem.

    Anyway!!

    So! Your typical buggy or truggy axle is hollow and 8mm diameter with a thread inside. The thread accepts a grub screw that fixes a cross-pin in place when it's tightened down. The cross pin holds the hex, which has a ( much larger ) thread for a 17mm nut..



    We could call this the conventional 1/8 off-road racing design. Basically, all buggies and truggies that I know of use this design or some variant of it.

    Up until now, the only way of fitting wheels in the same way to a Revo has been to use Tekno RC's TKR10144 8mm stub axles...



    They're very good. Tough as old boots and well-made. Their only flaw is that these are designed to fit into the original Traxxas 5453 axle yokes...





    You can see that the smaller ( 6mm ) end of the stub axles has two parallel flats ground onto them. These are more-or-less identical to the original axles and fit into corresponding holes in the yokes. Then they're held in with 2.5mm pins and the pins are retained by the wheel bearings. This works well enough and I don't think there's been any problem with that end of the yokes, although the other end can sometimes give way, but, up 'till now, if you wanted to use 8mm, conventional racing style wheel mounts, you needed to use the original hollow plastic axles, which are really good, but, if you wanted really tough steel axles as well, there was no choice....

    <Gasp!>

    Still with me??

    Right! Now!...

    The Ball-X yokes are bloody huge and made from stainless steel. They come with beautifully turned axles that are 6mm diameter and fit in the same way as the originals with a 2.5mm pin, but don't have flats. So! You can remove the Ball-X axles and replace them with the Tekno axles. The "flat-gound" end of the axle fits into the 6mm hole in the Ball-X yoke but, for some reason, the hole for the 2.5mm pin doesn't quite line up. It's about 0.25mm too short, so the pin won't go through. I originally thought that grinding 0.25mm off the shoulder in the axle was the answer and that does work. I did it that way because Tekno stubs are cheaper than Ball-X axles! In fact, I've found that the best way to get 'em to fit is to grind, file or otherwise wear down 0.25mm off the flat face of the Ball-X yoke. This has the advantage that it doesn't compromise any of the assembly - I'd guess that grinding the Tekno stub will go through the case hardening and weaken it somewhat. We'll see about that because I ground one stub but I'll grind the other yokes. I've told TVR about the problem. They thanked me but didn't say they'd do anything about it. I doubt it would be a big deal for them to make the yoke 0.25mm ( 10 mils ) shorter. Maybe they'll chime in.

    Phew! Well, that was fun! Hope it makes sense. Feel free to make comments, ask questions etc.

    Cheerz!

    Rootz
    Last edited by RootzMan; 08-31-2012 at 04:29 PM. Reason: I'm a perfectionist! What can I say??
    I've been "edited for content" ie deleted.

  26. #26
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    you are awesome rootz....keep up the good work...i really do appreciate your explanation and the pics to go along with it...

    we definitely need more like this...sorry for being stupid...

  27. #27
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    A bit expencive, but worth the money if they last. Not cheap in the long run to replace "cheap" axels every other week. I`m for now happy with the summit axels, but would like something like this as a center driveshaft.

  28. #28
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    You're very welcome, mate. Not stupid at all.

    Cheerz!

    Rootz

    Quote Originally Posted by IvVaum View Post
    you are awesome rootz....keep up the good work...i really do appreciate your explanation and the pics to go along with it...

    we definitely need more like this...sorry for being stupid...
    I've been "edited for content" ie deleted.

  29. #29
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    Now there is an ad on there site about Summit and ERBE specific driveshafts!

  30. #30
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    I thought summit axles where the way to go?
    ERBE, MERV BB

  31. #31
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    I like the summit's, ya sure they will break but they last a looooong time and cheap and easy to fix. Haven't tried and steel stuff except for my drive shaft.

  32. #32
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    Tvr axles are junk i got them and they break just as quick in that beautfuil ball bearing race they thought would be a good idea stick with the cheap plastic ones big time waste

  33. #33
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    Thoses arent the axles youve been waiting for there junk they may warrenty them because they break like right quick

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