MITCH316 ERBE rebuild

[MITCH316]

Hey Craig,
I recently bought a set of the Titanium Nitride Ring and Pinion set for the LST2 diff and they stripped in my second run of using my ERBE
I noticed that there was a lot of play and movement within the bulkhead which was also broken, would this have any effect on the diffs being able to strip so easily?

Hey mate, I can't report any issues with my diffs...especially the Titanium Nitride Ring and Pinion. They are holding up well and beside the front diff ring and pinion been replaced a couple months back, no issues with my diffs since doing this mod.

As far as I am concerned these diffs are the real deal for the way I use my truck. Its so awesome to be able to go bash hard for a day and come home with no stripped diffs. In my experience diff slop in the bulkhead will cause you to strip gears.

There should be no play on the diff and it should be nice snug fit held firmly in place. A diff floating in the bulk will strip gears every time. This is from my Summit build thread on how I went about trying to fix diff slop in the bulks.

One thing that drove me crazy with my eRevo was the ammount of slop the diff had in the bulkhead. I noticed a similar issue with the Summit bulkheads.

I was going through my build last night and when I moved the drive shafts up an down, there it was, the slop. It wasn't as bad as the eRevo but it is something that will annoy me. I also think it was one of the main reasons I was stripping ring gears in the eRevo all the time.

I thought if I could fill the gap in the bulkheads to keep the diff snug and in place I would get more life out of my diff gears.

My solution, hot glue...the beauty with this is it is not permanent and very easy to remove. Hot glue sticks are fairly cheap too.



The end result...the bulkhead took a whole glue stick. I am very happy with this and the way it is now, as I have eliminated all the slop the diff had in the bulkhead



I will need to test this and see how it works...I am confident that this is a good solution. What is nice about this glue is that it dries like a soft rubber (almost like silicone); and will have good shock absorbing properties.

[MITCH316]

Hi my mate's and I have all just brought e revos, 4 of them. I was just seeing if you could let me know the cheapest place for parts that you buy from. We are in Newcastle Australia and our local hobby shop is quiet expensive. We have ordered some parts from phils hobby shop in the state's but are always after good deals. Any help would be appreciated.

Hey mate...I use eBay most of the time...I sent you a PM.

[MITCH316]

hey craig i was working on this guys car down coomera way last week when i turned up one day and he had a erevo
his friend had one too so i said hey i got one of those
so after i worked for a day on his car i went and picked up mine and three of us went to the bmx / skate parkin coomera near the lost city
heaps of jumps and some are huge and the other guys were getting huge air and flips
bit run down but its good for our revos
pity i stuffed a servo pretty quickly and that played up my esc
will fix my erevo soona nd get back out there in afew weeks

Sounds good mate...I should try look at getting out that way sometime...hopefully you get your truck sorted out soon .

[keithy]

Hi I was just wondering if you have or know an easy way to do it. We would like to make away to have our batteries being able to run in either parallel or series if you know what I mean. We would like to make it quick to change over so we can still use our lipos on dirt tracks as 3s not combined 6s but if we are looking to do speed runs we can just clip the different harness in.

[Money pit]

Hi I was just wondering if you have or know an easy way to do it. We would like to make away to have our batteries being able to run in either parallel or series if you know what I mean. We would like to make it quick to change over so we can still use our lipos on dirt tracks as 3s not combined 6s but if we are looking to do speed runs we can just clip the different harness in.

You could solder a single connector to the esc and then make a series and parallel adapter.

[MITCH316]

You could solder a single connector to the esc and then make a series and parallel adapter.

That would be my advice too mate...I only run 2/3s in series so have never looked at the parallel option. I just like the grunt of 6s...it makes me bash my truck of jumps bigger, further and higher pushing my eRevo to the limits.

Would you not consider running 2/2s in series for dirt track...you would probably enjoy it abit more...that's just my opinion and what I would do. get some large mah 2s batts.

[clp71220]

Craig I just watched your last video of speed runs and having fun. You looked like you where dancing the two step while getting out of the way of the car that you intentionally drove towards yourself.

[keithy]

Hi mate does it matter what type of solder you use when doing the wiring

[sideshow]

Use solder from jaycar
Not from auto parts shop
The jaycar still has some lead in it and easy to work with
Solder for automotive use these days has no lead. Bloody greenies
So this means this solder needs more heat and harder to work with and with
More heat means more chance of damaging the stuff you are soldering

[sideshow]

Use solder from jaycar
Not from auto parts shop
The jaycar still has some lead in it and easy to work with
Solder for automotive use these days has no lead. Bloody greenies
So this means this solder needs more heat and harder to work with and with
More heat means more chance of damaging the stuff you are soldering

[MITCH316]

Hi mate does it matter what type of solder you use when doing the wiring

Use solder from jaycar
Not from auto parts shop
The jaycar still has some lead in it and easy to work with
Solder for automotive use these days has no lead. Bloody greenies
So this means this solder needs more heat and harder to work with and with
More heat means more chance of damaging the stuff you are soldering

I use solder with lead in too...good luck with it .

[MITCH316]

Craig I just watched your last video of speed runs and having fun. You looked like you where dancing the two step while getting out of the way of the car that you intentionally drove towards yourself.

The eRevo is like a raging bull mate ...I don't do that too often, but it is fun

[65535]

For solder I use 60/40 (Pb/Sn) but 63/37 is a better solder because it doesn't suffer from cold joints as easily. Lead free is something I will avoid for a long time.

[sideshow]

yes i think stressing about my tqi controller will kill me before the lead in the solder does hehehe

[phsycophantsy]

Hey mate, I can't report any issues with my diffs...especially the Titanium Nitride Ring and Pinion. They are holding up well and beside the front diff ring and pinion been replaced a couple months back, no issues with my diffs since doing this mod.

As far as I am concerned these diffs are the real deal for the way I use my truck. Its so awesome to be able to go bash hard for a day and come home with no stripped diffs. In my experience diff slop in the bulkhead will cause you to strip gears.

There should be no play on the diff and it should be nice snug fit held firmly in place. A diff floating in the bulk will strip gears every time. This is from my Summit build thread on how I went about trying to fix diff slop in the bulks.

Hmmm it must be all the play in my bulkhead then, ive ordered a new set for front and rear and will give it a second chance but have just ordered the stock LST2 diff ring and pinions.
Ill give the hot glue a go as well
thanks for the info mate.

[MITCH316]

Hmmm it must be all the play in my bulkhead then, ive ordered a new set for front and rear and will give it a second chance but have just ordered the stock LST2 diff ring and pinions.
Ill give the hot glue a go as well
thanks for the info mate.

No worries mate...hope it works out better for you this time.

[MITCH316]

I was out at the local track today with the eSlayer and eRevo...the eSlayer was a blast but the eRevo was even better.

These pics are from my last vid I made at the track but this is what I got up to today with the eRevo...the eRevo is always a blast. Post #267 for the vid...the Losi mod is still going strong with no issues.

[MITCH316]

I found some old footage I re-edited last night...this was my last bash session 04/08/2012 before I did the Losi mod on my truck. In this video I am running 50W shock oil all round and springs Green F / Tan Rear with 18/62 gearing.

This was also the first time I landed a 60ft long jump off a launch ramp...I was also getting close to 40ft long back flips .

In the video you will see in some scenes yellow lines marked on the grass (they are barely visible but are there)...should of done them in red (it would of been more visible in the video footage). We marked a line every 5ft over 80ft so we ourselves to get an idea of the distance we were jumping as a reference .

[eschmitt4]

17000 views huh? Not bad. Not bad.

[MITCH316]

17000 views huh? Not bad. Not bad.

Thanks mate...I've enjoyed making this thread...

[MITCH316]

This is a continuation from post #155...first installation of LST2 diff and read in conjunction with post #212 from my last diff inspection.

I wanted to see how the Ti-Nitride Ring and Pinion gear (#LOSB3535) were holding up compared to stock ring and pinion gear I originally used in the front diff...while I was at it I opened up the rear diff too. I apologise for the poor picture quality...I will invest in some better equipment during the course of this year.

FRONT DIFF INSPECTION


As you can see the pinion gear is showing signs of wear but is in a much better condition than what the previous pinion looked like for roughly the same amount of use (or should I say abuse ).



I never bothered to take the spider gears out as I was only interested in the ring and pinion gears. As seen above this was the worst wear on the ring gear. Its really not that bad...I am hoping to get at least another 6 to 7 months out of these gears as is.

The pinion took 1 x 8mm x 0.3 shim. It is now again a nice snug fit with no play on the pinion gear.



The front bulkhead cracking in the usual place...this bulkhead is about 2 months old now. I will re-look at the Losi mod when I rebuild my truck in another 6 to 7 months. The front bulkhead is holding up well considering what I put my truck under

What I never documented before but have been doing this from way before the Losi mod is I hot glue my diff in place and try fill up the void...as you can see below.



REAR DIFF INSPECTION


The pinion looks OK for roughly 5 months of use...I am very pleased with the Losi mod as it is holding up well to the torture I put it under .



Again with the rear I never bothered to take the spider gears out as I was only interested in the ring and pinion gears. As seen above the ring gear has not worn much from the last diff inspection.



Again I hot glued my rear diff in place and try fill up the void...as you can see above.

With the next re build of my truck I will use the stock ring and pinion gear on the rear and the Ti-Nitride Ring and Pinion gear in the front...for some reason my front ring and pinion take a harder beating than the rear do.

[Yip-man]

Always good reading your threads, updates on how your mods are lasting are interesting and informative.

Keep up the great work

[Money pit]

Ok, I spent my money in the right places Those look nearly new for how much abuse you have put them through... Keep posting the awesomeness!

[MITCH316]

Always good reading your threads, updates on how your mods are lasting are interesting and informative.

Keep up the great work

Ok, I spent my money in the right places Those look nearly new for how much abuse you have put them through... Keep posting the awesomeness!

Thanks guys...I appreciate the feedback. I am really impressed with the Losi mod. Its holding up way better than I imagined it would.

I am still one happy basher .

[Mugs]

^^^^
Hey Man. Based on what you were doing with your truck during our weekend jump session I reckon its a double on your Losi Mod.

[MITCH316]

Can you let me know how these gears hold up?

Hey Craig,
I recently bought a set of the Titanium Nitride Ring and Pinion set for the LST2 diff and they stripped in my second run of using my ERBE
I noticed that there was a lot of play and movement within the bulkhead which was also broken, would this have any effect on the diffs being able to strip so easily?

Hmmm it must be all the play in my bulkhead then, ive ordered a new set for front and rear and will give it a second chance but have just ordered the stock LST2 diff ring and pinions.
Ill give the hot glue a go as well
thanks for the info mate.

Hey mate...just to give you some feedback; as you can see in post #299 above that my ring and pinion gears are holding up well. Besides the front ring and pinion been replaced, and the only reason this was replaced was due my heavy braking during my test stages of the Losi mod.

I am really impressed with the Losi mod as it has made my eRevo even more enjoyable than before...my truck is one tough machine now, the local are always blown away when the eRevo comes out for a bash session .

[ignis]

Is the hot glue mod a valid replacement for shimming?

[Yip-man]

Ignis, I believe the hot glueing solves a different issue to shimming. The chassis has plastic ridges that hold the diff in place. These wear and with hard bashing the diffs tend to move slightly. The hot glueing is there to hold the diff in position and reduce pressure on diff parts and bearings.

[ignis]

All right, sounds useful enough. But then what purpose does shipping serve?

[MITCH316]

Is the hot glue mod a valid replacement for shimming?

Ignis, I believe the hot glueing solves a different issue to shimming. The chassis has plastic ridges that hold the diff in place. These wear and with hard bashing the diffs tend to move slightly. The hot glueing is there to hold the diff in position and reduce pressure on diff parts and bearings.

Yip-man is correct...I use hot glue for diff slop in the bulkhead; it holds the diff firmly in place...also because I have done the Losi mod the diff does not sit correctly in the bulkhead. It requires a bit of dremeling of the bulk to get the diff to fit and trimming of the chassis...I also use the hot glue to fill up the void (gap) aroung the diff and to try give the diff some cushioning effect too, from the big air bashing that I do...IDK if it works but its working for me. The nice thing about the hot glue is its totally removable.

[MITCH316]

But then what purpose does shipping serve?

I assume you mean shimming...shimming is important for gear life and removing the play on the ring and pinion gear. Refer to post #157 for examples on how to shim a diff.

EDIT: This is from my eSlayer thread...shimming stock diff

[racerkilla]

I see you use hot glue.. Ever think about making diff blocks to help hold the diffs down in place along with hot glue. I made diff blocks to fit perfect and glued them into the bulkheads. Takes a few minutes.

[MITCH316]

I see you use hot glue.. Ever think about making diff blocks to help hold the diffs down in place along with hot glue. I made diff blocks to fit perfect and glued them into the bulkheads. Takes a few minutes.

I thought about it when I first did the mod but decided against it and see how I go with the hot glue...I am going to re-look at the Losi mod when I rebuild my truck in about 6 to 7 months.

I will keep an eye on your thread and follow your feedback on the Losi mod .

[MITCH316]

I have received a few PM's from other members and thought I would share the info here for all to see

I broke a rear left shaft today trying to get some video footage of what I am doing with my truck...fortunately for me I had a Summit shaft from my eRevo I broke a while back on the opposite end and kept as a spare.

For those who don't know; its always good when shafts break to keep the opposite ends that aren't broken as spares for when needed to make a new shaft.



The one above is from the eRevo and the bottom from my Summit. As you can see I broke the short end on the eRevo and the long end on the Summit. I cut around the top of the boot and then built a new shaft from the good ends and CA glued the boot to the shaft to fix into position.



My glue job is not the best but will do...this saved me from using a brand new shaft as both ends were still in fairly good nick.

Thanks to 87 GN for the info below...

Broke another driveshaft Monday afternoon...this time it was the short one in the front...driver error. I didn't have any spares so this is what I did; this was mentioned to me before so I thought I would try it.



I drilled a new set of holes through the shaft as shown. I had 2 attempts at this.



In my 1st attempt I didn't quiet drill the holes straight so I ended up discarding the broken piece of the short shaft. My 2nd attempt was a little bit but it was with a long shaft...because they didn't line it up exactly it was fairly difficult trying to instal the diff output CV drive...a light tap with a hammer sorted it out.



I ran the opposite end on a belt sander to shorten down to the length of a short shaft.



I didn't bother re-gluing the boot back on as this is only a temporary measure until my replacements arrive. So far it is holding up well .

I ran the opposite end on a belt sander to shorten down to the length of a short shaft.

You could also hacksaw these shafts down to length instead of using a belt sander.

For the guys running eSlayers you could take a set of these Summit shafts and cut down to length and use as a beefed up replacement to the stock shaft. I wouldn't worry about been to accurate with the exact length as near enough will do.

If you are game enough you could file a recess into the cut shaft and re-glue the boot back onto the shaft.

When my stockers break on my eSlayer I will replace with Summit shafts all round .

[MITCH316]

I was originally using HPP hex adapters on my Summit build but wanted them for my SlayVo GT build that I will begin soon. I replaced the HPP hex adapters with Integy 6mm offset adapters (you are able to get these with zero offset too). Up to date they are working well with zero wheel slop...they are not too expensive compared to the HPP hex adapters and cost around $25.

I am not sure how these will hold up to 2/3s but on 2/2s maybe an alternative option for some wanting to fix there wheel slop. Mine didn't arrive with the axle pins, if they did I lost them but to be honest I can't recall...I went about making my own.

This is a continuation from post #12.

I have recently decided to change my 17mm HPP hex adapters for the Integy 6mm offset hex adapter as I want the HPP adapters for another build.

I ended up getting these ones for my Summit...here is a comparison of the HPP vs Integy adapter.



I was excited when I received them in the post as I waited long enough for them to arrive .



Needless to say upon closer inspection I was disappointed that their was no stub axle pins supplied...I had some on hand but they were to short.



The ones I had were just under 12mm long as seen above, they were just too short by 1mm or so. I made my own instead...I took 4 x 2.5mm hardened steel drill bits and cut the shank to size and chamferred the ends.



I cut them all to 13mm in length.



The end result, a nice fit...I probably should of cut to 13.5mm in length. We will see how we go and how it holds up...In theory it should be OK.

[MITCH316]

For those wanting to beef up stock diffs ...from my eSlayer build thread.

All right, sounds useful enough. But then what purpose does shipping serve?

I assume you mean shimming...shimming is important for gear life and removing the play on the ring and pinion gear. Refer to post #157 for examples on how to shim a diff.

EDIT: This is from my eSlayer thread...shimming stock diff

I am using the ST Racing diff case #ST5380B and the Hot Racing diff cup #RVO11C01 on my eSlay-Revo build.

They were fairly pricey to purchase; but these were bought at the time where I just seemed to strip my diff gears on a regular bases with my eRevo...at the time I rebuilt my eRevo I was in search of a bullet proof diff build but ended up doing the Losi mod instead.

I knew they wouldn't go to waste as I had the intention of building me eSlay-Revo for some time .

Here is the St racing diff case.




Here is the Hot Racing diff cup.
.

My first impression of the ST Racing diff case is that it is well machined and is a very nice snug fit in the bulkhead...after my experience with the Losi diff aluminium diff case I am confident that this will improve the life of my diff on this build .

The Hot Racing diff cup is very solid and a nice fit inside the diff case...I am looking forward to putting the diff cup and case through some good harsh testing.

I will post some videos and give some feedback of the tests I put these diffs through, and if this was a worthy upgrade .

[MITCH316]

For those wanting to beef up stock diffs ...from my eSlayer build thread.

The I-Bar is not a direct fit in the diff cup and required a slight mod to fit. I rounded off the corners on a belt sander as seen below. That is a comparison of a stock I-Bar to the one that has been modded.





As you can see it has been rounded quite significantly...you could probably achieve the same result with a grinder or dremel. It didn't take me long to do both; roughly 5 minutes or so .

The I-Bar fits in the diff cup nice and snug...with the spider gears in place it seems to be very solid and strong .

[MITCH316]

For those wanting to beef up stock diffs ...from my eSlayer build thread.

I used a mixture of 30K and 10K diff lube on this build.

Front diff was 3/4 30K and a 1/4 10k mixture and the Rear diff was 1/4 30K and 3/4 10K mixture. I am using the thinner weight diff lube as this truck is going to be set up more for race style bashing.

I filled the diff lube to the top of the diff cup and removed as much of the air bubbles as practically possible.



I then fitted the ring gear and tightened 3 of the 4 screws leaving the 4th one out to allow excess diff lube to escape through the open screw hole.



I then greased the ring gear with Mobil 1 red grease and closed up the diff case.



Once together the gear mesh was relatively smooth...made for easy installation.

[MITCH316]

For those wanting to beef up stock diffs ...from my eSlayer build thread.

At the time I did my Losi diff mod on my eRevo there were a lot of questions going around on diff shimming...I gathered some people were battling to get their head around the whole concept on how to shim there diffs.

In my front diff I am using a brand new set of gears and in the rear, a used set from my eRevo before I replaced them with the Losi mod. They have only had about 3 x 2/3s battery run of use.

Front Diff
The diff cup required 2 x (10 x 0.3mm) shims



The pinion required 2 x (6mm x 0.3mm) shims



I found that this was the only shimming necessary for the front diff.

Rear Diff

I shimmed 1 x Traxxas 3982 Teflon Washer (6 x 0.5mm) on the ring gear side of the diff output CV drive gear.



The diff cup required 1 x (10 x 0.3mm) shims



The pinion required 3 x (6mm x 0.3mm) shims



I am quite happy with the shimming...Gear mesh is relatively smooth; a slight bit of binding with ring and pinion in the front diff but once broken in should be OK...this build will only run 2/2s.

I hope this info helps any of you who have been battling to shim diffs as I say a picture always speaks a thousand words .

[MITCH316]

Hers a quick reference for those looking for info on exploded views and parts list.

Click on images for full view










Click here for the Parts List

Here is the exploded view for the Summit shafts with part #'s