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  1. #81
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    awesome video...i don't bash mine as hard as u guys...i am very surprised at how much "abuse" ur guy's e-revo can handle...i guess i'm still too timid to try jumps like that with mine...

    keep up the awesome how-to's...i'm a follower...

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by IvVaum View Post
    awesome video...i don't bash mine as hard as u guys...i am very surprised at how much "abuse" ur guy's e-revo can handle...i guess i'm still too timid to try jumps like that with mine...

    keep up the awesome how-to's...i'm a follower...
    Thanks mate...I appreciate it
    Rock n Rolla !

  3. #83
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    Exclamation Bumpers

    Not much to add here...I had a spare set of stock bumpers which I decided to use on my build.

    I thought I would post this here for those who wanted to know what RPM bumpers looked like compared to stock.



    I must admit that I do like the look of the RPM bumpers but unfortunately I am using those on another build that I am currently busy with.

    I am also using the RPM front bumper mount with the stock bumper and body mount.

    Rock n Rolla !

  4. #84
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    My build has come along nicely and is basically finished. Here are some photos of my build so far .





    Rock n Rolla !

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoroller View Post
    Hi Craig. Here is an exploded view of the diff. Hope it's helpful. I was fortunate to locate two diffs already assembled, so it was very easy to work with.

    do you know what size the pin is in B3505 is and if they can be bought in a pack all i need is the pin not the rest of the stuff.

  6. #86
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    that black matt and the work stand...what's the brand?

  7. #87
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    The stand appears to be Duratrax (I have one) and can be found here. Actually amazing for the price. However they won't take a Revo with wheels on.

    The mat could be anything, I am not sure on it.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by IvVaum View Post
    that black matt and the work stand...what's the brand?
    The mat is a DuraTrax Pit Mat 29" x 19" #DTXP2050 &
    the stand is Duratrax Pit Tech Car Stand #DTXC2370


    Quote Originally Posted by 65535 View Post
    The stand appears to be Duratrax (I have one) and can be found here. Actually amazing for the price. However they won't take a Revo with wheels on.

    The mat could be anything, I am not sure on it.
    You are correct, the stand is Duratrax...I just use it for when I am doing an inspection and general service...or if I need the truck elevated off the ground. It also makes it easier to spin it around all the time between the front and rear...other than that I work on the rubber mat, it's easier .
    Rock n Rolla !

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by black67stang View Post
    do you know what size the pin is in B3505 is and if they can be bought in a pack all i need is the pin not the rest of the stuff.
    G'day mate...this is the part I bought for the conversion Losi CV Driveshaft Rebuild Set #LOSB3505. Post #27 shows the bits I used for the conversion.

    Like you, all I needed was the pin...unfortunately for the LST2 conversion there were a number of Losi parts I had to buy that were not necessary...I only needed one item from the grouped parts they sell together for my build.

    I am not sure what to do with the left over Losi parts...I might toss them away as I have no need for them and don't know anyone in Oz that has a Losi .

    I hope this info was of some help to you .
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-25-2012 at 12:58 AM. Reason: I can't spell
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  10. #90
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    hey Craig, when you rebuilt the shocks, did you buy the rebuild kit? or use the old bladders and such? How about the shaft? thanks

  11. #91
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    Exclamation Tyre Taping

    I am not going to go into much detail over this.

    My method of taping the inside of the tyres are as follows:

    I give the tyres a good wash, especially the inside of the tyres with warm soapy water to remove any dust residue that may be on the tyres.

    My preferred choice of tape is 2" wide gorilla tape as it is very thick and durable and also super sticky. Once the tyres are dry I do one wrap around the centre of tyre with an inch overlap. If the tyre is wider it may require 2 passes with the tape overlapping each other in the middle to achieve the required width .

    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-25-2012 at 11:01 PM. Reason: I can't spell
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  12. #92
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    Do you tape the tires just for speed runs or do you recommend taping tires for all uses including bashing

  13. #93
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    sometimes you got the itch to go fast and taping it is the best you ever done, no more balloning. i even tape my summit tires and tried it for high speed run and it hold up really good with no balloning whatsoever.
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  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by stressbasher View Post
    hey Craig, when you rebuilt the shocks, did you buy the rebuild kit? or use the old bladders and such? How about the shaft? thanks
    G'day mate...I had a rebuild kit on hand but never ended up using it. When I examined the existing shocks, especially the bladders, they were still in quiet a good condintion so I ended up re-using everything .
    Rock n Rolla !

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hndacbr6 View Post
    Do you tape the tires just for speed runs or do you recommend taping tires for all uses including bashing
    I tape my tyres because I run 6s and when your tyres are ballooning it makes the truck hard to handle. Taping also helps to prevent shredding when throttling the beast . I am a firm believer in taping tyres.

    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    sometimes you got the itch to go fast and taping it is the best you ever done, no more balloning. i even tape my summit tires and tried it for high speed run and it hold up really good with no balloning whatsoever.
    You know its true...itchy throttle finger .
    Rock n Rolla !

  16. #96
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    Exclamation Wheel balancer

    Not much really to add here...this is my wheel balancer that I use; it is a Dynamite #2620.

    I am a firm believer in wheel balancing, and it is incredible to think the difference it makes to your performance and handling; it also extends the life of the trucks mechanical parts.



    It fits the 17mm rims perfectly...the only problem is it doesn't fit the 3.8's or 40 series the correct way...to get around this I put the rim on the opposite way.
    Rock n Rolla !

  17. #97
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    Exclamation Wheel balancing

    As said in the previous post, I am a firm believer in balancing wheels.

    I will mention a few of the methods I have tried and my preferred choice of balancing wheels; modelling clay, epoxy putty, lead weights and lead tape.

    I didn't like the modelling clay method, it gets very dirty and comes off the rim to easily when objects such as small branches and stones get stuck in the rim...but on the other hand it is cheap and you get lots of it in a pack.

    I didn't like the epoxy putty method either as you get about a 10 minute window to balance your wheel before the putty sets hard.

    My preferred choices of balancing are self-adhesive lead weights and lead tape. I generally use this tape Dynamite DYN2621. You can also use lead tape from tennis or golf shop. It is not as thick but still does a good job.



    I usually balance my wheels twice...First the initial run-in period and the second time after a few hard initial runs. I have found that because of using gorilla tape on the inside of the tyres it needs time to set in and shape itself; IMO, because of this I find my wheels need to be rebalanced.

    PROCEDURE

    Start off by making sure the inside of the rim is clean so the tape will stick.



    I put the wheel on the opposite way around because it doesn't fit the correct way. I give the wheel a light spin and wait for the wheel to stop rotating. This means the heavy spot is at the bottom. I mark the top with chalk or a permanent marker.



    This is the side you are going to balance; place whatever you are using this side. Keep adding weight to this end until such that when the wheel is rotated freely that the balanced section keeps stopping in different locations. It’s also very easy to add too much weight to the balanced side making it the heavy side.

    I generally use lead weights for the initial balance as I often find that initially the wheels sometimes require a large amount of weight to balance; I then fine tune with lead tape until balanced. Here is an example of my initial wheel balanced.



    After a good run in of the tyres and foams I re-balance the wheels. This is how I arrange the lead strips for final balancing. In the photo below; this is golfers lead tape I used to balance these sets of wheels



    And for these sets of wheels I used the Dynamite lead tape.



    Below is an example of the epoxy putty I use too use...you can see it in the spoke area.

    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-29-2012 at 06:57 AM. Reason: I can't spell
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  18. #98
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    Exclamation Shock covers

    In the past I used the Jato boot shock cover...I found that they worked really well keeping grit out of the shock as I have stated in post #32; my old shock oil was relatively clean still from 6 months of use.

    I found thou that using the Jato boot shock cover was you had to be careful when using compressed air to clean your truck, as it was easy to blow the boot off the shock.

    I have been running my truck for the past week now testing the Losi Diff conversion I did and its holding up fantastically well .

    I never bothered about the Jato boots on this build but after running and testing my truck over the past week I certainly feel I need to cover the shocks again.

    I have decided to use the BAD HORSIE shock covers I had lying around.



    As you can see below it is a stretch material...I think its made from lycra; I am not really sure thou.



    To get the cover over the springs, I put the spring on my pinky finger and pulled the cover over the spring. Having my finger there made it relatively quick and easy to fit the shock cover.



    All shock covers in place...doesn't look to bad.



    I will need to give some feedback on the shock covers once tested and see if they were worth while using .
    Rock n Rolla !

  19. #99
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    Exclamation Temp gauge

    Thanks to MUGS for showing me this...this is the racetemp stick on temp gauge.



    This is a quick, easy and efficient way for monitoring motor temps without a temp gun and is accurate within a few degrees of actual temperature. It has a very good sticky adhesive which has stuck well to my motor so far.

    This is how I stuck mine on.



    How to read:
    Green indicates actual temperature.

    As rated temperature is reached, indicator changes from black to:

    *Green bar indicates actual temperature reading.
    *Brown bar indicates temperature reading just above actual reading.
    *Blue bar indicates temperature reading just below actual reading.

    I find that the temp gauge works extremely well and unit measurements are in C and F. The C only become visible when the bar is colour coded.
    Rock n Rolla !

  20. #100
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    ooOOOOooo...i like that whole race temp sticker thingy...gotta get me one of those...

  21. #101
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    Nice to keep an eye on motor temp, but guess it will actually make temps even higher becase you isolate a part of the motor from air?

  22. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by KN-Revo View Post
    Nice to keep an eye on motor temp, but guess it will actually make temps even higher becase you isolate a part of the motor from air?
    I don't think so...I have a heat sink I stick on top of it; regardless of that I think the strip surface area is so small compared to the motors and the temp strip is paper thin that its insignificant in the motor temps. It actually works very well the strip.
    Rock n Rolla !

  23. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by KN-Revo View Post
    Nice to keep an eye on motor temp, but guess it will actually make temps even higher becase you isolate a part of the motor from air?
    Hmmm, I guess technically you are right as for cooling to occur you need air flow over the surface of the cooling fins. However, having said that, the RaceTemp Thermometer covers only about half of 6 circumferential cooling fins out of a total of 21. If we conveniently ignore the convective heat transfer from the other bits of the motor other than the cooling fins for now and if we conveniently ignore the fact that the RaceTemp Strip covers only the outer part of the cooling fins and not the sides and if we conviently ignore any convective heat transfer that will occur across the 1mm Thick RaceTemp Strip, then you are absolutely right.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  24. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mugs View Post
    Hmmm, I guess technically you are right as for cooling to occur you need air flow over the surface of the cooling fins. However, having said that, the RaceTemp Thermometer covers only about half of 6 circumferential cooling fins out of a total of 21. If we conveniently ignore the convective heat transfer from the other bits of the motor other than the cooling fins for now and if we conveniently ignore the fact that the RaceTemp Strip covers only the outer part of the cooling fins and not the sides and if we conviently ignore any convective heat transfer that will occur across the 1mm Thick RaceTemp Strip, then you are absolutely right.
    Its not just technically, but how much it has to say will have to be measured. Guess the extra heatsink more than make up for it.

  25. #105
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    Exclamation TQ Transmitter

    I am still on the TQ system...I have a TQi transmitter for my Summit that I am busy building at the moment and will probably in the future end up running my trucks off this transmitter; but for now I am still running my truck off this transmitter as it is still working fine.

    For those with young children, you know what its like when the truck comes out; especially my 2yr old son. I often get the impression when I see him fiddling with my truck that he thinks it is his .

    None the less, he loves to touch everything. Here is my transmitter below; a good few months back he kindly broke the aerial off its hinge and ripped the antenna out for me. It took me forever to figure out where the antenna actually clipped to the circuit board.

    Unfortunately I don't have a pic of it.



    Needless to say I was furious with him for a while...the way I went about fixing it was I took a body mount clip...



    With the clip and along with a pliers I forced the clip through the hinge hole on the aerial to fasten it in place. It took a fair amount of force but eventually went through...be careful not to damage the antenna wire when pushing the body mount clip through.



    Once in place I clipped the unnecessary bit off and filed the sharp edge off. This is even stronger than before and works perfectly fine in folding the aerial down.

    My son has had a couple of attempts since then at trying to remove the aerial, but is staying fastened in place; it was a very quick and easy fix .
    Rock n Rolla !

  26. #106
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    Exclamation Prolong body life

    I want to share with you the method I use to prolong my body life. Don't you just hate it when this starts to happen to your body?



    What I do to prolong my body life is I usually drill a 3mm hole at the end of the crack and then patch with shoe goo; drilling the hole helps stop the body from splitting further...I have been using shoe goo from way back in the day from when I use to skateboard and now use it for a lot of applications around the house and for my RC vehicles. This is a very tough glue and is flexible once dried and can withstand a lot of impact.



    I start of by cleaning the surface area on the inside of the body where I am going to apply the glue...I apply a generous amount of glue to the area that needs to be repaired; I put some spit on my finger and smooth off. Putting spit on your finger stops the shoe goo from adhering to your finger and gives a nice smooth finish.



    This body I have used for about 8 months now and has lasted me well considering the way i bash my truck...as you can see it has been repaired quiet significantly. Unfortunately this body has seen its end of days and has been replaced with a new body...only for the patching process to be repeated in time .



    Its all in the nature of the hobby .
    Rock n Rolla !

  27. #107
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    Hey Craig...have you ever thought about putting undercoating on the underside of the body to stiffen it?

    Don't know if they have undercoating spray where you are but I wonder if anyone has tried it. I'm thinking about buying a bottle and spraying it on the body underside to stiffen it. What do you think?

  28. #108
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    Hey Craig...so...i'm thinking about getting a set of these...i looked at the exploded views of the summit and it says that 5655 is shorter than 5656 and should be used only for certain corners of the car...so my question is...is that true?...or does it matter on the erbe...u can use either of the 5655 or 5656 in any location?...can u clarify?

    http://traxxas.com/explodedviews/560...Qi-24GHz-radio

    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    I have read a lot on these forums about various drive axles, from the traxxas steel cvd to the MIPs. I can't comment on any of the above axles as I have had great success with the Summit drive shafts.

    Here is my verdict on them...I have always run 6s in my eRevo with Summit drive shafts. They are absolutely brilliant and have held up great to the abuse I put my truck under, sure they break...but they are a quick easy fix and can be done on the fly while out bashing.

    Since i have replaced a good few things on my build, I decided to put new drive shafts all round and keep the old for spare. One was broken and the other three weren't in bad condition.



    As you can see here there is not to much wear on the end of the shaft. This was the worst of them.



    One thing I can't stress enough is get a decent set of hex screw drivers as when working with 3mm grub screws it is so easy to strip the hex head and make a good build a disaster to sort out. The Summit shafts take 3mm grub screws.



    I stripped the shafts so I could clean the stub axle #5654 and diff output CV drive #5653 and replace with new long shafts #5656. I cleaned with RP7 to remove any rust and grit...also to give a light coat of lube to protect from rusting.



    The stub axle and diff output CV drive were still in good nick and probably still get a good lot of solid runs from them.



    REMOVING STUB AXLES FROM AXLE CARRIERS
    I will show you a simple way to remove the stub axle from the carrier without pounding away with a wrench or hammer and damaging the bearings in the process. The same goes for sliding the bearing over the stub axle...Because of the spline pin and the force on the axle it often causes a lip that you can't see with the eye and stops the bearing from sliding over the hole.

    I know the pic is of me pushing the stub axle on the axle carrier the wrong way but I am sure you get the idea of what I am trying to explain. In the pic this is often where the bearing gets stuck, on either side of the spline hole.



    The simple solution is when this happens is to get some sand paper that is not to coarse (very fine) and cut a strip. Wrap it around the stub axle and role between your fingers like so.



    The bearing should slide off in no time and you save yourself the hassle and frustration of the axle being stuck and trying to force off

    I always have on hand 3 different types of sand paper, all very fine coarse...it always comes in handy.

  29. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by IvVaum View Post
    Hey Craig...have you ever thought about putting undercoating on the underside of the body to stiffen it?

    Don't know if they have undercoating spray where you are but I wonder if anyone has tried it. I'm thinking about buying a bottle and spraying it on the body underside to stiffen it. What do you think?
    G'day IvVaum...not sure if you get that here. The shoe goo has been working well for me and doesn't really add much weight to the body.

    My mate Mugs rhino lines (may be called bed liner on your side of the world) the inside of his eMaxx body 3mm thick, have a look at his post #13 on his eMaxx build thread. His body is pretty indestructible at the moment and is holding up really well to the abuse he throws at his beast.

    The two of us normally bash and race together. Doing this adds roughly a 100g extra to the truck...can't see it been a problem when bashing.

    If the need arises, I may go down this path in the future , but at the moment I think getting 8 months of use from a body is pretty good going with the odd patch up job here and there. I usually give my truck a minimum of 5 battery runs a week and generally 6s .


    If you need anymore info on rhino lining and how it holds up feel free to PM Mugs.
    Rock n Rolla !

  30. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by IvVaum View Post
    Hey Craig...so...i'm thinking about getting a set of these...i looked at the exploded views of the summit and it says that 5655 is shorter than 5656 and should be used only for certain corners of the car...so my question is...is that true?...or does it matter on the erbe...u can use either of the 5655 or 5656 in any location?...can u clarify?
    Hey IvVaum...I'm busy building a Summit as well so the short shafts haven't gone to waste. What I did in the beginning when I changed over to the Summits was to buy a complete set of Summit shafts...from memory it was something like $46 for a full set (front and rear) which are 2 short and 2 long; doing it this way will cost you a fraction of the price than buying each individual part.

    I ordered an extra 4 pairs of long shafts with that order and just replaced the shorts with the longs #5656. I think some guys use the short on the front, they just cut the rubber boot so the shaft can stretch. To buy a pair of long shafts is around $6/pair.

    From experience it's always good to keep a few spare on hand anyway...truth be told; running these on 6s with a wheel that's not too heavy hold up very well compared to the stockers

    I hope this clarifies what you were asking mate?


    On another note...how did you go rebuilding your diff and the shimming? Unfortunately its one of those things that are trial and error...and every now and then you will need to shim differently from the previous time I must admit the Losi diff is holding up well to the forces and stresses I have been putting it under. I think I would of had to rebuild a good few stock diffs by now with half the enjoyment I have been getting from my truck .
    Rock n Rolla !

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    well...kinda...but i'm still confused...why sell two short and two long?...so that u have to buy two sets?...

    so...ur running four longs on all four corners?...and does it really matter if you mixed them up?...and can u run all four shorts on all corners?

    and as for my shimming...i just shimmed it the best i could...it kinda binds like u say...but...it's only a little binding...there's no play and that's all i cared about...and i haven't really put the pedal to the metal to find out...still kinda want to break it in slowly...

    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    Hey IvVaum...I'm busy building a Summit as well so the short shafts haven't gone to waste. What I did in the beginning when I changed over to the Summits was to buy a complete set of Summit shafts...from memory it was something like $46 for a full set (front and rear) which are 2 short and 2 long; doing it this way will cost you a fraction of the price than buying each individual part.

    I ordered an extra 4 pairs of long shafts with that order and just replaced the shorts with the longs #5656. I think some guys use the short on the front, they just cut the rubber boot so the shaft can stretch. To buy a pair of long shafts is around $6/pair.

    From experience it's always good to keep a few spare on hand anyway...truth be told; running these on 6s with a wheel that's not too heavy hold up very well compared to the stockers

    I hope this clarifies what you were asking mate?


    On another note...how did you go rebuilding your diff and the shimming? Unfortunately its one of those things that are trial and error...and every now and then you will need to shim differently from the previous time I must admit the Losi diff is holding up well to the forces and stresses I have been putting it under. I think I would of had to rebuild a good few stock diffs by now with half the enjoyment I have been getting from my truck .

  32. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by IvVaum View Post
    well...kinda...but i'm still confused...why sell two short and two long?...so that u have to buy two sets?...

    so...ur running four longs on all four corners?...and does it really matter if you mixed them up?...and can u run all four shorts on all corners?

    and as for my shimming...i just shimmed it the best i could...it kinda binds like u say...but...it's only a little binding...there's no play and that's all i cared about...and i haven't really put the pedal to the metal to find out...still kinda want to break it in slowly...
    The Summit has a T-Lock system...has different bulk heads and diffs to the eRevo; in order for the shafts to work, the ones on the T-Lock side had to be slightly shortened.

    I wouldn't know about running all four shafts as shorts on the eRevo...I have never tried and haven't heard of anyone doing so.
    Rock n Rolla !

  33. #113
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    oh ok...i gotcha...so for the erbe...just use the four long shafts...and i should be good to go...

    thanks again...ur awesome...keep up the good work!

    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    The Summit has a T-Lock system...has different bulk heads and diffs to the eRevo; in order for the shafts to work, the ones on the T-Lock side had to be slightly shortened.

    I wouldn't know about running all four shafts as shorts on the eRevo...I have never tried and haven't heard of anyone doing so.

  34. #114
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    another question:

    how did you get these:



    to fit or attached to the gear? u show that u chopped it off...but how do you connect it to the gears?

  35. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by IvVaum View Post
    oh ok...i gotcha...so for the erbe...just use the four long shafts...and i should be good to go...

    thanks again...ur awesome...keep up the good work!
    No worries mate...four long for the eRevo and you're good to go...as said before some do use the short shafts on the front until they break; it just looks odd with the boot stretched. Myself, I just replaced the shorts with 2 long shafts.
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 10-04-2012 at 11:12 PM. Reason: I can't spell
    Rock n Rolla !

  36. #116
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IvVaum View Post
    another question:

    how did you get these:



    to fit or attached to the gear? u show that u chopped it off...but how do you connect it to the gears?
    So basically what my thumb is covering is the bit that sticks out of the diff and is the end that your CVD's connect to; you don't need the threaded end for the conversion to do this mod, you chop it off. As you can see in the exploded view below they get attached to the inside of the diff cup with part #A3518, it goes through the spline hole of the drive axial to keep it in place...it will make a lot more sense once you have the diff in pieces in front of you.



    In reality you are replacing B3540 in the exploded view below so that you can continue to use the Traxxas shafts. Some people use the Losi drive cups with the Losi CVD's...myself, I wanted to re-use the Summit shafts as I really have had no issue with using them.



    Rock n Rolla !

  37. #117
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    oh i see...gotcha...thanks for the explanation...

    so...another question...u can use the Losi CVDs?...from the LST2?...are they the same length? or is that yet another mod?...and the stub axel...they fit perfect?

  38. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by IvVaum View Post
    oh i see...gotcha...thanks for the explanation...

    so...another question...u can use the Losi CVDs?...from the LST2?...are they the same length? or is that yet another mod?...and the stub axel...they fit perfect?
    Sorry, I can't help you there...I haven't explored that avenue.
    Rock n Rolla !

  39. #119
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    don't think I have ever seen anybody use the Losi drive shaft.... to long IDB........
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  40. #120
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    Exclamation Wheels (My tyre and rim combo)

    I wanted to post my tyre and rim combo that I am using at the moment...these combos are working really well for the way I use my truck. I apoligise for some of the poor quality photos in this thread, my camera phone is not the best.



    1. HPI GT2's 3.8's on Maximizer 1/2" offset rims
    2. Response Pro 3.8's on Geode chrome rims. These come with a 1/2" offset
    3. Road Rage 3.8's on Desperado 1/2" offset black chrome rims

    In hind site I probably would have not bought chrome rims...As nice as what they look they start looking terrible after a few runs from chipping and been grazed. If I ever get another set of chrome rims I will probably remove the chrome before mounting the tyres.





    My review on the tyres I use:
    1. HPI GT2's...I find these to be a very good all round tyre. They are very good on road, dirt and grass and I love the way it makes my truck handle. I use these as my bashing tyre.
    2. Response Pro...I find these to be terrible tyres for the road; life span will be down to a couple runs on 6s. They make excellent dirt track, general dirt (relatively flat surface) and short grass tyres and give my truck a wild ride. I really enjoy these tyres when I am in the mood for some high speed runs and wanting to be a little bit crazy with my my truck.
    3. Road Rage...What can I say. I have never enjoyed speed runs with my truck as much as I have when these are on...but under 6s power your life span will be short on asphalt and will show signs of wear in 6 to 7 battery runs especially under full acceleration in corners but none the less a very fun tyre for the road.


    This review is purely on the way I use my truck and can't comment for anyone else as we all use our trucks differently
    Rock n Rolla !

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