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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    if you start breaking shock caps you might need to go back to the stock length, for the P2 rockers.
    I had my push rods set for LT's, running on the P2 rockers, & started breaking the shock caps.
    Thanks for the info mate ...hopefully I don't break a shock cap.

    I've been using the P3 push rods with the P2 rockers for about 7 months now with no issues. I find its the rod ends that I often have to replace .
    Rock n Rolla !

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by YFZBOB View Post
    This thread should be in a magazine! I don't own a ERBE, but your tech write up is AWESOME!!!
    Thanks mate
    Rock n Rolla !

  3. #43
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    Exclamation RPM A-Arms

    In this build I have decided to use RPM A-Arms. I have read some good reports about them, so, I am going to give them a go and give my feed back of what I think.

    I will not be using the true-track as I still want the option of adjusting toe angle on the rear. Here is a pic below of the RPM A-Arms.



    I only had a stock left A-Arm on hand for comparison.



    Here is the top of the Stock and RPM A-Arm. As you can see the RPM looks a little beefier than stock.







    Here is the bottom of the Stock and RPM A-Arm. Again as you can see the RPM looks a little beefier than stock.







    My verdict so far...all in all the RPM is a nice looking A-Arm with a sleek design and a lot beefier than stock. I look forward to testing them out and putting these A-Arms through their paces
    Rock n Rolla !

  4. #44
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    Exclamation Drive Axles

    I have read a lot on these forums about various drive axles, from the traxxas steel cvd to the MIPs. I can't comment on any of the above axles as I have had great success with the Summit drive shafts.

    Here is my verdict on them...I have always run 6s in my eRevo with Summit drive shafts. They are absolutely brilliant and have held up great to the abuse I put my truck under, sure they break...but they are a quick easy fix and can be done on the fly while out bashing.

    Since i have replaced a good few things on my build, I decided to put new drive shafts all round and keep the old for spare. One was broken and the other three weren't in bad condition.



    As you can see here there is not to much wear on the end of the shaft. This was the worst of them.



    One thing I can't stress enough is get a decent set of hex screw drivers as when working with 3mm grub screws it is so easy to strip the hex head and make a good build a disaster to sort out. The Summit shafts take 3mm grub screws.



    I stripped the shafts so I could clean the stub axle #5654 and diff output CV drive #5653 and replace with new long shafts #5656. I cleaned with RP7 to remove any rust and grit...also to give a light coat of lube to protect from rusting.



    The stub axle and diff output CV drive were still in good nick and probably still get a good lot of solid runs from them.



    REMOVING STUB AXLES FROM AXLE CARRIERS
    I will show you a simple way to remove the stub axle from the carrier without pounding away with a wrench or hammer and damaging the bearings in the process. The same goes for sliding the bearing over the stub axle...Because of the spline pin and the force on the axle it often causes a lip that you can't see with the eye and stops the bearing from sliding over the hole.

    I know the pic is of me pushing the stub axle on the axle carrier the wrong way but I am sure you get the idea of what I am trying to explain. In the pic this is often where the bearing gets stuck, on either side of the spline hole.



    The simple solution is when this happens is to get some sand paper that is not to coarse (very fine) and cut a strip. Wrap it around the stub axle and role between your fingers like so.



    The bearing should slide off in no time and you save yourself the hassle and frustration of the axle being stuck and trying to force off

    I always have on hand 3 different types of sand paper, all very fine coarse...it always comes in handy.
    Rock n Rolla !

  5. #45
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    Exclamation 17mm HPP Hex adapters

    I personally think that these are one of the best hex adapters on the market. From my experience with them been used on my eRevo, they have totally eliminated my wheel slop and I would recommend these to anyone who was interested in them. They are fairly pricey adapter but well worth the dollars.

    Below are the HPP hex adapters ready to be installed, again I am not going to go into to much details of the installation of the adapters.



    To install I put a drop of blue thread lock on the end of the thread of the stub axle



    I then put a bead of grease on the locking nut that holds the hex adapter in place. This is to allow for an easy fit to the hex adapter and axle shaft



    This is it all fitted together and fully tightened

    Rock n Rolla !

  6. #46
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    The build is going slowly...I am taking my time and enjoying every bit of it

    Rock n Rolla !

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by YFZBOB View Post
    This thread should be in a magazine! I don't own a ERBE, but your tech write up is AWESOME!!!
    Hey mate, I second that because I know first hand the amount of time, thought and effort you have been putting into the rebuild and this thread. kudos man!
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  8. #48
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    Exclamation Transmission

    I've ended up replacing my bearings all round, so last night I replaced the bearings in my transmission.

    I thought I would post this here for those who haven't seen the inside of a transmission before, or who would like to know what the inside of one looks like.

    Here is my transmission stripped down and cleaned. The bearings have been replaced and my transmission is ready to be rebuilt.



    I've read the debate on these forums about greasing, diff lubing and leaving the transmission clean. I like to grease my moving parts, especially when there is metal on metal contact.

    As you can see in the photo below I applied a generous amount of grease to all the moving parts, even the nylon gear. I have been using this method ever since I have gotten into the RC hobby game and have never had an issue from greasing my transmission.

    Again I have used Mobil1 red grease.



    I then closed up the transmission and is now ready to be installed .

    I like to service my transmission every 6 months and inspect every couple months to see that the bearings are still running smoothly.
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-11-2012 at 06:03 PM. Reason: I can't spell
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  9. #49
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    Awesome thread, very informative, and well documented, greats details, and info here for newbies to the erevo like me.

  10. #50
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    Wow now thats a major rebuild job,nice work so far.I will be following this thread for sure.I use the same grease on my Massey Ferguson tractor,it's realy good stuff.
    ERBE , 1/10 Summit.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    Awesome thread, very informative, and well documented, greats details, and info here for newbies to the erevo like me.
    Quote Originally Posted by spanky17 View Post
    Wow now thats a major rebuild job,nice work so far.I will be following this thread for sure.I use the same grease on my Massey Ferguson tractor,it's realy good stuff.
    Thanks guys...I appreciate it
    Rock n Rolla !

  12. #52
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    Exclamation Traxxas centre CVD

    I am big fan of the traxxas centre CVD #5650R. I found running 6s with the stock didn't cut it for me. After a couple months I noticed the stock had stretched out of shape and had a lot of play in it.

    Since I have been using these I am very happy with the performance of my truck. This installation is a follow on from 'POST #26, 27 & 28'.

    As stated before I placed 1 X 0.2 shim on the pinion and then attached the CVD. This was to eliminate any play that was in the diff. Placing one on the inside made the gears bind slightly which I did not like.



    Because I had modded the CVD I installed each end to the diff first before installing the transmission.



    I then installed the transmission, starting with the longest CVD attaching to it to the transmission first. Once in place I then attached the shorter CVD and then fastened the transmission in place.



    I was happy with the end result and was a nice easy installation .
    Rock n Rolla !

  13. #53
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    Great thread very detail...I appreciate the work you put in to explaining step by step.Question you shim the diff from the outside I've been going with the shim on the inside "am I doing it wrong"?
    ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brewers74 View Post
    Great thread very detail...I appreciate the work you put in to explaining step by step.Question you shim the diff from the outside I've been going with the shim on the inside "am I doing it wrong"?
    Thanks mate ...I found that building LST2 diff from scratch was a perfect opportunity to try and shim this diff properly. I could never get the traxxas diffs to be a perfect mesh with shimming, though shimming did help somewhat.

    With the LST2 diff I shimmed everywhere, different thickness shims, removing shims and adding shims. I must of tore this diff down over 10 times with the different option of shimming I tried. At the end of the day I found following the '8ight Truggy' exploded view shimming in the diff cup to be the best and smoothest.

    Once the diff cup was assembled and I assembled the rest of the diff I found that no shimming was necessary. I tried shimming in various place but found whatever I did it made the mesh between the ring and pinion either to loose or too tight.

    I then proceeded to attach the yoke to the pinion gear and on rotating it the yolk the mesh between the gears was perfect. I noticed there was a slight bit of play on the pinion...probably not enough to be concerned about, but I thought to myself, I have gone to all the effort I want to eliminate this small bit of play.

    I found once I put the shim in there that the play had been eliminated and the mesh between the gears was even smoother.

    The internals of the LST2 diff are very solid and nicely constructed. Now that my diff is packed with grease and lube, I am very happy with the result I get when I rotate my drive shafts.

    I could never could get a mesh as smooth as it is now with my traxxas diffs...no matter how I shimmed them, I always could feel binding in certain spots

    I will need to test these diffs and give my feedback but I am confident with my diff build and shimming
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-11-2012 at 10:51 PM. Reason: I can't spell
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  15. #55
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    Exclamation Single servo

    As said before I am going with a single servo conversion. I would like to thank 87GN for the help and info he has provided me on this subject.

    In the photo below you can see all what I purchased for this mod.



    Hitec HS-7950TH Mega Torque Digital Dual Titanium Gear Servo
    Ofna #10774 Alum Servo Arm Horn 24-Tooth
    STRC STP6037SAlum Single Steering Servo Saver Arm
    Traxxas #5344X Servo Saver Heavy Duty Spring

    The heavy duty spring is the silver and black is the stock...I will try both and see how we go.
    Rock n Rolla !

  16. #56
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    Exclamation Single servo washer mod

    After trying to put together the servo saver last night with the heavy duty spring I found that it bowed the servo saver cap outward and made it difficult to assemble. I was worried that this would rip the screws out the servo saver and strip the threads.

    I am not a big fan of aluminium parts but only use them where absolutely necessary. I felt that the servo saver itself did not have to be aluminium.

    I had read on threads before about a washer mod.

    This is my washer mod at trying to stiffen up the stock spring. I used an M10 x 22mm OD x 1.5mm thick washer that I found lying around in the workshop at my work. I then used an 11mm drill bit to drill out the centre.



    Because the outer diameter was just a bit too large and internal diameter of the washer a bit to small; I took the drill bit with the washer and ran on a belt sander for even wear. I continued this until I reached an outer diameter of 21mm and an internal diameter of 11.25mm.



    Once I was happy with the fit in the servo saver cap I took off the sharp edges from drilling the internal diameter.



    I then chamfered the sharp edge from the outer diameter, I also reduced the thickness from 1.5mm to 1.2mm



    I then neatened the internal diameter of the washer with some fine coarse sand paper making it a nice smooth finish.



    Here is a photo of a M10 washer I used and the finished product for comparison. The washer I modded is still round, I have just chamfered a bit more in some areas and the light is making it look out of round in the photo.



    As you can see a nice clean perfect fit in the servo saver cap.



    I am yet to try this and see if it works, in theory though, the spring should be a lot stiffer with this method.
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-12-2012 at 12:51 AM. Reason: I can't spell
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  17. #57
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    Question you think the Losi 8ight buggy diffs would work ? I have a roller I'm doing nothing with.
    ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4

  18. #58
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    Never mind looking at the shape of the unit its probably not possible Back to eBay
    ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brewers74 View Post
    Never mind looking at the shape of the unit its probably not possible Back to eBay
    I'm just looking at the exploded view of the Losi 8ight buggy and it looks similar to the Losi 8ight truggy.

    The buggy exploded view doesn't have the shimming like the truggy exploded view and they are using different diff cups. The part numbers are not the same as the LST2 diff.

    I am really not familiar with Losi products so I can't comment on the diffs other than the LST2. Sorry I couldn't help
    Rock n Rolla !

  20. #60
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    I fitted the ESC, hitec servo and RX to the chassis tonight. I also tried to neaten the wiring up as best I could.

    I tested the servo and everything is working...the only thing that is bugging me is that the servo is humming a lot, sounds similar as if two servo are fighting each other. I am not sure what is going but I need to try and figure it out.

    Here is a photo of my progress.

    Rock n Rolla !

  21. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    As said before I am going with a single servo conversion. I would like to thank 87GN for the help and info he has provided me on this subject.

    In the photo below you can see all what I purchased for this mod.



    Hitec HS-7950TH Mega Torque Digital Dual Titanium Gear Servo
    Ofna #10774 Alum Servo Arm Horn 24-Tooth
    STRC STP6037SAlum Single Steering Servo Saver Arm
    Traxxas #5344X Servo Saver Heavy Duty Spring

    The heavy duty spring is the silver and black is the stock...I will try both and see how we go.
    I'm going to run a single servo too (hitec 7455), is this mandatory or it can be done just leaving one servo in place. Since you got the LST2 diff why you choose summit axles over the LST2 cvd's ? Do you have a link to the 17mm adapters you mentioned before. Last Q, I got traxxas cvd's do you think it might be a better choice selling them, and getting the ones for the summit?

    thanks.

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    I'm going to run a single servo too (hitec 7455), is this mandatory or it can be done just leaving one servo in place.
    I am not sure I am following the question. This is a thread I posted a while back on a Single Servo Conversion. I am following recommendations from this thread. I am running a BEC because the servo requires a continuous 6V for optimal performance.

    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    Since you got the LST2 diff why you choose summit axles over the LST2 cvd's ?
    I already had summit axles and been using them for a while...doing the LST2 diff conversion and single servo went way over my budget than I originally had planned for. If the Summits break they are a cheap easy replacement in my opinion.

    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    Do you have a link to the 17mm adapters you mentioned before.
    Here you go mate...HPP-Germany. If it pops up in German there is a British flag on the top right hand corner, click that and it will change to English. They are pricey, but IMO well worth it.


    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    Last Q, I got traxxas cvd's do you think it might be a better choice selling them, and getting the ones for the summit?
    I have never used them, but, if you search through these threads you will read mixed debates about them...some guys have spoken about them twisting, snapping the dog bone off and popping out of the cups (you can get the extended cup to solve this I believe.

    I personally am very happy with the Summit Axles...I have broken a good few but are a quick and easy fix.

    Since you already have the steel CVD's, I suggest try them and see how you go. If you don't like them you can always change them out later.


    I hope I answered your questions
    Rock n Rolla !

  23. #63
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    I was refering to the mods you mentioned to run a single servo, the heavier spring, the single servo arm, if those were mandatory to run a single servo. I'll read the thread you mentioned, you have been very helpfull.

    Thanks.

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    I was refering to the mods you mentioned to run a single servo, the heavier spring, the single servo arm, if those were mandatory to run a single servo. I'll read the thread you mentioned, you have been very helpfull.

    Thanks.
    I am going with these mods because of the servo I have decided to run...HITEC HS-7950TH servo.

    A few members recommended those as an upgrade because of the ammount of torque a single servo has. It has to do with the servo flexing the stock arm and the washer mod was to stiffen the spring.
    Rock n Rolla !

  25. #65
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    Exclamation Single servo arm

    This is my assembly of the single servo arm...its a continuation of post #56

    Here I am ready to assemble the servo saver, spring, servo arm (STRC STP6037S) and my washer mod.



    As you can see this is a nice tight fit...I had to apply a small amount of force to be able to screw the BHC screw in.



    The washer mod was a much better fit than using the traxxas heavy duty spring. I don't know if this will make a difference but in theory has stiffened up the stock spring quiet a bit.



    My build is coming together nicely now and am making some good progress.



    I am looking forward to putting my beast through its paces
    Rock n Rolla !

  26. #66
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    Exclamation Pinion and spur gear mesh

    I am going to show my method of setting gear mesh here for those who don't know, or would like to know how to mesh there pinion and spur gear.

    On this build I am going to start off with a 19/62 gear setting running the LST2 diff...I will see how this goes and adjust my gearing accordingly if need be.

    I start off by cutting a strip of paper slightly wider than my spur gear and roughly 15cm long.



    I then fold in half...I like to use this thickness to set the spacing between my gear mesh.



    I then feed between my spur and pinion and push together.



    With even pressure I press the pinion and spur together and rotate the spur so the paper runs between the spur and pinion.



    Once I am happy that the paper is running smoothly between the gears I fasten the motor into position and rotate the spur in the opposite direction to remove the paper.



    I try and align my spur so it is sitting centre of the pinion gear.



    I have been using this method for a long time without any issues
    Rock n Rolla !

  27. #67
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    Exclamation HPP Moto brace

    As mentioned before I am a huge fan of the HPP products. This is the HPP motor brace, again it is a pricey product but well worth the dollars.



    This together with the HPP hex adapters are 2 of the best investments IMO that I have ever made for truck. The motor brace is easy to fit and keeps the motor in place even after those gnarly cartwheels and insane lands on the roof.



    Since I have been using this motor brace I have never stripped a spur gear again...



    As you can see it is a very snug fit and out off the way.
    Rock n Rolla !

  28. #68
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    Exclamation Slipper clutch setting

    I have run into a few issues in the past with incorrect slipper clutch setting. I've had it when it's been too loose and melted my spur gear...and also not paying attention to worn pads has has also resulted in a melted spur gear.

    The way I like to set my slipper clutch now...and I use this for all surface I run on is I tighten my slipper all the way, basically where it feels tight, but not too tight. I then set the tool in the vertical position as my setting out point.



    I then back off just over a 1/4 turn or where the tool touches the chassis. I use my hex screw driver to lock the transmission while tightening or loosening.



    This is an ideal setting for me
    Rock n Rolla !

  29. #69
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    keep up the good work...i love reading and seeing the pics that goes with it...for newbies like me...it makes the terminology stick...cos sometimes...i just have no clue as to some of the lingos that goes on...

  30. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by IvVaum View Post
    keep up the good work...i love reading and seeing the pics that goes with it...for newbies like me...it makes the terminology stick...cos sometimes...i just have no clue as to some of the lingos that goes on...
    Cheers mate...I appreciate it
    Rock n Rolla !

  31. #71
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    Exclamation Single servo horn

    This is a continuation of post 65. I've installed the servo horn over the weekend and attached to the servo arm. I am rather impressed with the servo just on the preliminary test that I have done.

    I look forward to giving this a good run.





    I set up the servo horn and steering link as per the manual.





    I am using the maximum travel steering stop and using the outer hole on the servo horn.



    I will do the fine tuning of my steering when my beast is up and running
    Rock n Rolla !

  32. #72
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    Exclamation Cover plate for a single servo setup

    I used the traxxas cover plate (#5326X) and modded it to fit my chassis in the empty servo spot.



    I used my dremel to remove material and smooth off. I also slotted the one screw hole longer. It was a relatively easy job and went smoothly.



    It was a nice fit...as if a servo was fitted in the spot.



    And here it is fastened into position. The cover plate cost me $3, I was going to make one but then came across this.





    Its all coming together now...
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-16-2012 at 07:47 AM.
    Rock n Rolla !

  33. #73
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    Exclamation Sway bar kit

    I am using the Traxxas sway bar kit #5498 front and rear. I can't comment on the Tekno sway bar kit as I have never used one.

    In my experience...it is unbelievable the difference this has made to the performance and handling of my truck. I've been using this sway bar kit for about 7 months now and am very happy with it.

    This is what the sway bar kit looks like for those who don't know.



    I replaced the front stock linkage with these beefier 49mm aluminium turnbuckles #3738.



    In comparison there is a significant difference.



    The only problem I have found using the Traxxas rear sway bar kit is that the linkages attach to the underside of the rear rocker. A slight mod is needed to fit them, nothing to difficult thou

    I dremeled a slight groove into the rear of my chassis as I have found in the past that the ball end of the linkage rubs on the chassis. This was to allow the linkage to move easier but is not necessary to do.



    It will create a slight impression on its own anyway from rubbing the chassis.

    When you get the sway bar kit you will receive a jig and from memory I think a drill bit, I can't remember thou. As you can see I drilled a hole in the bottom rocker. The jig is pretty self explanatory to use.



    I set my linkage attachment to the sway bar 5mm from the top all round. I am also using the black sway bar all round as this is thicker than the silver. The rear sway bar must be used in conjunction with a wing mount.



    Here is a photo of the front sway bar installed.



    And here is a photo of the rear sway bar installed.



    I would certainly recommend the sway bar kit to anyone who is wanting to improve performance and handling of their truck .
    Rock n Rolla !

  34. #74
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    Hey, quick question. Did you put the spacer UNDER your rocker posts? That is what I did, as per instructions, and mine don't rub the chassis in any part of the swing motion..

    On the other side of things, heck yes they make a massive difference. Whole new level of control on hard/high traction surfaces!
    Last edited by Deisel; 09-19-2012 at 05:56 PM. Reason: I can't spell.

  35. #75
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    Exclamation Sway bar kit spacers

    Quote Originally Posted by Deisel View Post
    Hey, quick question. Did you put the spacer UNDER your rocker posts? That is what I did, as per instructions, and mine don't rub the chassis in any part of the swing motion..

    On the other side of things, heck yes they make a massive difference. Whole new level of control on hard/high traction surfaces!
    !...Thanks for pointing that out to me Deisel... I had totally forgotten all about the spacers until you've just reminded me. I've actually taken my truck apart a good few times and replaced the rear bulk heads and diffs and that I actually lost the spacers at the track one day about 4 months back .

    You've just reminded me off that day and the abusive language that came out my mouth . I am chuckling about it at my desk right now and recall how my mate and myself searched for those spacers to no avail.

    When I rebuilt my truck now I couldn't figure out why they were rubbing on the chassis when they never use to. As you can see I dremeled it out a lot more than what it actually rubs. That was because I dyed my chassis and didn't want the dye to rub off there.

    It just goes to show you don't remember absolutely everything .

    The rear sway bars have been working just fine without the spacers thou......I might go find some material in the workshop and make some spacers to see if there is a significant difference between using with or without spacers.

    To keep my thread up to date, here is the sway bar kit installation instructions and the SPACERS I left out. Thank you DEISEL .

    Click on image for the enlarged version


    Rock n Rolla !

  36. #76
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    Haha, brilliant! I do remember doing the same thing with grub screws - I would usually have a few, but I didn't have any lock tight and the pinion on the Rustler kept rattling the screw out, haha!

  37. #77
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Exclamation Sway bar kit spacers continued

    This is a continuation from post #75

    I couldn't believe my luck yesterday at work...I was scrounging through a solenoid valves box and I happened to find these.



    They are almost an exact size for size of the spacers I lost. These have a 1/2mm wider internal diameter and are 1.8mm thick...I was so excited to get home and try them, the end result, I am very stocked...



    I have installed them and tested the sway bar kit with my hand and feels very solid...I am looking so forward to giving my eRevo a good burn and test these LST2 diffs out now .
    Rock n Rolla !

  38. #78
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Exclamation Rear body mount

    I haven't felt the need to do the rear chassis brace...I personally don't like the way it clutters up everything, especially around the rear shocks.

    What I did...and what has been holding up and working very well is a mod I made for the rear body mount.

    I replaced the 4 x 14 BHC screw with a 3/16 x 1" UNC screw. I grinded the OD of the head down to 9mm diameter so it would fit snug in the rear body mount and cut the thread length down to 9mm.



    I then put the rear mount into place and put some pressure with a screwdriver on the 3/16 screw until it bit the rear mount and threaded itself into place .



    Once installed it very strong mod and holdups extremely well to severe bashing.



    I have been using this mod for the past 7 months and has never once failed on me...here is a short video I made of me bashing in skate park using this mod and is holding holding up very well to my abuse.

    This video was made shortly before I built my truck



    As you can see have a carefree attitude ad am like balls to the wall with my truck and believe you must go big or go home
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-22-2012 at 04:30 AM. Reason: I can't spell
    Rock n Rolla !

  39. #79
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    Why so much fine tuning if you bash your truck like that ?

    This thread is how I like them : nice pics, details, explanations, reviews, part ref, vids...

    Great job

  40. #80
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popoxx View Post
    Why so much fine tuning if you bash your truck like that ?
    You know how it goes mate...all that fine tuning to enjoy a good couple hours bashing and back to the fine tunning

    Quote Originally Posted by Popoxx View Post
    This thread is how I like them : nice pics, details, explanations, reviews, part ref, vids...

    Great job
    Thanks...I appreciate it
    Rock n Rolla !

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