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  1. #1
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    E-Revo VXL Poor Brakes

    So I just recently purchased the 1/16th E-Revo VXL and have only driven it for a day now. Everything is great about the car besides the brakes. Reverse works perfectly fine as well. I am using the standard 2.4 GHz transmitter. When going even like 10 mph, hitting the brakes all the way, the car takes several feet to come to a stop. It has been years since I have been in the RC scene but from what I can remember, cars in the past have stopped on a dime, and the tires would lock up. If I am holding the car off the ground, give it gas and then hit the brakes, the wheels do not even stop spinning right away. I have put the ESC into sport and race mode with the same results. Is this normal? The car is brand new and I am thinking about returning it if this is normal. Thanks in advance for your help!

  2. #2
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    You should be able to adjust it through the remote settings check your Manual

    Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk 2
    summit and e-revo sv2 5700, BL p2ede

  3. #3
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    I will check in the manual and post back,

    Also, is it normal for the motor to get almost too hot to touch after running it on the stock battery for only about 5 minutes?

  4. #4
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    What kind of surface are you on? Thick grass will do that. Repetitive jack-rabbit starts and stops will do it too
    Merv: Neu, MMP

  5. #5
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    Yup, I was on grass and mulch. Would you typically avoid tall grass and such or can the motor handle that kind of stuff even though it gets hot? Sorry for all the questions, this is my first electric and I just wanna make sure I'm taking good care of it!

  6. #6
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    Get a temperature gun, you can bash all you want, just don't let your motor get above 180-190
    Merv: Neu, MMP

  7. #7
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    Ok, so I re-calibrated the ESC and nothing changed. Next I set the multi-function dial to control the brakes, turned it to the highest setting and the brakes got a tiny bit better but they are still not good. At this point I am thinking the unit is defective?? I contacted Traxxas regarding the issue so I guess we'll see their take on it. I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks for the help.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Brakes on the stock ESC are weak.
    My braking did not improve until I switched out ESC's.

    The 16th scales are mostly for packed/loose dirt & pavement.
    In anything else, either they overheat due to being overworked, or they just don't perform.

    EDIT:
    Switched to an aftermarket ESC
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  9. #9
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    The brake issue is something I have not quite figured out. Changing either the ESC or the radio seems to cure the issue. With the stock radio and ESC the brakes seemed very weak but when both my son and I installed the Spektrum radio system braking was very strong. Later we both ended up with Castle ESC in the truck and at one time my son had to go back to his stock radio for a period of timed. Braking with the stock radio and Castle ESC was very strong.
    BlindMan Racing
    Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
    SPC Lipo Power

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Brakes on the stock ESC are weak.
    My braking did not improve until I switched out ESC's.

    The 16th scales are mostly for packed/loose dirt & pavement.
    In anything else, either they overheat due to being overworked, or they just don't perform.

    EDIT:
    Switched to an aftermarket ESC
    They are strong enough to make the car endo (stock).

    The manual states how to set them and it works great IMHO.
    0111001101101001011001110000110100001010

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cipher_Jones View Post
    They are strong enough to make the car endo (stock).

    The manual states how to set them and it works great IMHO.
    I followed the method in the manual and they got a little better but are still very weak. It seems some stock units have better brakes than others. I can definitely tell you my car will nowhere near endo.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Really hard braking is hard on the front diff.
    I have stripped my front diff on the first ride after shimming my aluminum bulkhead from one hard brake.
    Maybe it was a preventive measure

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Really hard braking is hard on the front diff.
    I have stripped my front diff on the first ride after shimming my aluminum bulkhead from one hard brake.
    Maybe it was a preventive measure
    Yeah, I am actually getting used to the braking now. I just expected different when I first drove it.

    Gonna go a little off topic here now but I was wondering what mods can be done to help keep this thing a little more stable? Wider rims, stiffer springs, etc? I will be using it mostly on road so I dont mind sacrificing off road capabilities to have it flip less. Thanks.

  14. #14
    RC Enthusiast
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    This is weird to hear. Since day 1 I have been able to throw my car tail over tea kettle by hitting the brakes too hard (with stock ESC & radio). One time running series NiMh I hit the brakes from full speed and probably did 20-25 somersaults before it stopped tumbling!!

    Stiffer springs may help. Some guys add a sway bar, and you can get lower offset wheels such as HPI mesh that will make the car wider. Even 1/16 summit wheels will help the stance over the stock MERV wheels.

    This post has been edited to remove bad language. If you type something that the word filter blocks and turns into *'s you need to edit your post to remove the offending word

    Dadx2mj
    Last edited by Dadx2mj; 08-15-2012 at 03:38 PM.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Check out hpi 2160 rims nice wide offset helps out quite a bit
    here is a link for a sway bar. http://www.toadzrc.com/catalog/produ...ly-revo-slash/ helps out too!
    Last edited by 50togo; 08-15-2012 at 02:55 PM.

  16. #16
    RC Enthusiast
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    I was expecting more braking as well. I am used to my 25 year old RC 10 that would lock up and I could skid it sideways. However, they were good enough to do an endo one time from top speed. The thing slid on its lid from close to 30mph and must have slid 30 feet or more. I haven't had it do that again, but I'll bet if I adjusted the brakes to apply harder, I wouldn't be able to stop any quicker without doing an endo. Maybe with different suspension adjustments. I can't remember how it was set up when I did the endo. Stock springs and oil, but not sure how much preload was adjusted in.

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