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Thread: Billet Bandit

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Billet Bandit

    Billet Bandit
    It's time for a new build! As you may be able to tell from the name, it's going to be a Bandit with as much aluminum as I can get away with. The main use for the Bandit will be on-road bashing. Here's the parts list so far:
    Custom 1/4" 6061 aluminum chassis
    VXL-3s ESC and 3500 motor
    2.4ghz Traxxas TX/RX (2 channel)
    EXI D226F servo
    STRC bulkhead
    STRC caster blocks
    Traxxas aluminum links
    RPM front bearing carriers (hopefully my weak point)
    Golden Horizons aluminum gear box
    STRC hinge pins
    Traxxas Bandit body
    Ultra shocks in the front
    Traxxas Big Bores in the rear
    STRC rear hub carrier
    RC Screwz screw kit
    REM a-arms
    Integy front shock tower
    Custom rear shock tower (maybe)
    Anything not mentioned will be stock.

    What do you guys think? Anything you would do differently? Speak up now before I order this stuff!

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    I would get an STRC shock tower instead of the Integy one.
    Nobody is born with experience.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petertje60 View Post
    I would get an STRC shock tower instead of the Integy one.
    I would too but I already have an Integy shock tower. Maybe I'll get an STRC tower anyway. Any other suggestions?
    Last edited by TraxxasTuesdays; 08-06-2012 at 10:32 PM.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    I know you are looking for a lot of alu, but some parts I would not replace by alu ones.
    I have some alu on mine, but I would never use alu a-arms or a chassis.
    I dont see an alu bellcranck in your list.
    Nobody is born with experience.

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    Everything is ordered. I did get an STRC front shock tower. There will be build videos on the YouTube channel HighPerformanceRC as well as links and pictures posted on this thread.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Petertje60 View Post
    I know you are looking for a lot of alu, but some parts I would not replace by alu ones.
    I have some alu on mine, but I would never use alu a-arms or a chassis.
    I dont see an alu bellcranck in your list.
    I'm pretty easy on my on-road cars. I may upgrade to aluminum bellcranks but I've been happy with the stock ones and my budget is almost tapped out.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Cool. I'm curious how it will end up!
    Nobody is born with experience.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    The golden horizons alu transmission cases have had production problems last month... Several of us on the forum have had to return our brand new transmissions to GH due to bearing clearance problems. Check out my build thread for info and links to the original problem thread: O.G.s bare bones basher build.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    I have a couple of the EXI servos you mention and you'll need a novac glitch buster to prevent brownouts; that servo is strong but inefficient.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

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    So I should go with another brand of trans case? What should I go with? And thanks for the info on the servo. I'll order a Glitch Buster now.

    Edit: I may roll the dice on the GH trans case. If it's not right, I'll return it or machine it so it works. There is just nothing close to it's price except Integy but it's out of stock at RCPlanet.
    Last edited by TraxxasTuesdays; 08-07-2012 at 12:32 AM.

  11. #11
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    Update: Everything is ordered. I got a FLM trans case instead of the Golden Horizons case and an STRC shock tower instead of the Integy tower. I also got a Novak Glitch Buster. Everything should be here towards the end of this week or the beginning of next. I'm not going to start on the custom chassis because I want it to fit the Bandit body PERFECTLY so I need the body before I can cut.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    I hope you're taking lots of pics.

    You will love the FLM transmission, great choice. And those glitch busters are cheap insurance.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    I hope you're taking lots of pics.

    You will love the FLM transmission, great choice. And those glitch busters are cheap insurance.
    I will be... as soon as I get some parts. Trust me when I say, this will be one of the best build threads EVER.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    I hope you're taking lots of pics.

    You will love the FLM transmission, great choice.
    Agreed. My FLM + Swami bar is quite awesome.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxxasTuesdays View Post
    I will be... as soon as I get some parts. Trust me when I say, this will be one of the best build threads EVER.
    Bold claim I'm keen to see how it'll ends up, please weight it for us at the end. Curious to see how it'll compare to a stock Bandit on that front.

    Can't wait to see what you will do paint wise on the body for something so bling

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    Quote Originally Posted by cunawarit View Post
    Can't wait to see what you will do paint wise on the body for something so bling
    That sounds like a challenge. I was actually going to keep it super simple with a carbon fiber wing and matte black on the body (mask the windows... of course) but maybe I'll do something a little wilder.

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    Looks like I will be getting the servo on the 14th (next Tuesday). No tracking number for anything else. RC Planet (where I ordered almost everything) says they will ship it tomorrow (Friday) so expect an update next Tuesday and expect the build to begin at the end of next week!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxxasTuesdays View Post
    That sounds like a challenge. I was actually going to keep it super simple with a carbon fiber wing and matte black on the body (mask the windows... of course) but maybe I'll do something a little wilder.
    HAHA! It wasn't a challenge, but glad to see that you will be taking it to another level

    You asked what we would do differently, well if I were you I'd be going with big bores all round rather than ultras at one end and big bores at the other. Also, you didn't mention springs. My own Bandit was absolutely transformed when running the right combo of Losi springs, so that's one thing I would personally do differently.

    The rest seems very cool A whole bunch of shiny fancy parts I'm not familiar with at all, so I really can't wait to see how it all comes together

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    Do the Big Bores have a performance advantage? I didn't think they did. I've only had trouble with bent shafts and stripped caps in the rear so I switched to big bores. The Ultras have always worked in the front. I have a full set of Traxxas springs and I'll work that out when I'm tuning. I have no idea where to start on springs with the added weight of all this aluminum though

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    I guess the trans case wasn't drop shipped. It's on its way! Oh... and I got something special for the paint job

  21. #21
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    Ok... I know I'm posting a lot on my own thread but I don't really care. FLM tranny case will be here tomorrow and I will probably be home when it gets delivered. It's supposed to rain so no boat . The servo will be here Tuesday. Everything else was shipped today and still doesn't have an ETA but I'd guess Tuesday for that stuff too. For the body, I'm currently talking to someone about doing something.... well... special. It may or may not be paint. I forgot I cut the nub off my current upper chassis, so I'll have to order a new one. That may get the same treatment as the body. Just wanted to give a little update.

  22. #22
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    I got the FLM transmission case today. I'm not overly impressed. At first, I was thrilled with it. I thought it looked GREAT. It does look good, but once I got it out into the shop, I realized how poorly this thing fits the chassis. I know the chassis requires slight modifications but the whole thing just doesn't meet my expectations for a $60 chunk of aluminum. I hope I assembled it right, but I will never know because there are NO instructions whatsoever. Some examples are the 4 forward screws holding the case to the chassis, they are .15" too long. The whole case is .1" too skinny for the chassis. There are burs on two of the holes in the case. The case is too far towards the rear for proper fitment of the stock shock tower. I must be doing something wrong with the motor guard part. The only screws that are even close to being the right length don't work. The screws don't have enough thread to tighten the guard thing (.081" too long on the shoulder part) yet the whole screw sticks out .600" on the other side of the motor plate. Maybe I'm too picky, but when you are machining a part from a billet of aluminum, why wouldn't you be more precise? Overall, I'm still pretty happy with it... I was just expecting more when I paid so much for a piece like this. I still haven't test fit any internals.

    Edit: The internals are PERFECT. We are talking within .0001" perfect. It's pretty impressive.
    Last edited by TraxxasTuesdays; 08-11-2012 at 01:38 PM.

  23. #23
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    The screws coming thru the arm mounts is not a big deal IMO and may be a good thing when you start playing with anti squat adjustment.

    The tranny is a little narrower than the chassis but once the truck is all assembled I doubt you will even notice it and it only saves a little weight.
    BlindMan Racing
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  24. #24
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    I think the screws will be perfect when I put the case on the 1/4" aluminum chassis... but that's beside the point. It's not that anything is a real problem, but why wouldn't they use the proper length screws, debur the holes, and I don't even know what's up with the rear motor guard piece thing.

  25. #25
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    Only thing you mention I see as an issue is a screw hole having a burr in it. That is just sloppy but not a huge deal and IMO not all that common with FLM. That and the fact that FLM comes with no instructions at all, they never have and at this point doubt they ever will.
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxxasTuesdays View Post
    Do the Big Bores have a performance advantage? I didn't think they did. I've only had trouble with bent shafts and stripped caps in the rear so I switched to big bores. The Ultras have always worked in the front. I have a full set of Traxxas springs and I'll work that out when I'm tuning. I have no idea where to start on springs with the added weight of all this aluminum though
    The shafts are coated with titanium nitrade which is supposed to make them have a smoother actuation. I didn't really notice much of a difference.

    Have you seen this spring chart? It lists Losi springs that will fit the big bores and the stocker shocks and allows you to easily compare spring rates.

    http://www.teamlosi.ru/techtips/spring_chart.htm
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  27. #27
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    So those ratings (2.5, 2.9, etc) are the amount of force needed to reach full compression (with no resistance of a shock and oil of course)?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxxasTuesdays View Post
    So those ratings (2.5, 2.9, etc) are the amount of force needed to reach full compression (with no resistance of a shock and oil of course)?
    Check out this vid for more info. The second goes into explaining spring rates. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQyka...gJHCQCRFtHQIdw

    part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotat...&v=Z16X-lKOMhw
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  29. #29
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    Thanks for the link. I already knew most of it, but it was somewhat informative. I love URC.

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    Got the EXI D226F servo today. Funny story about the delivery man; he got my package switched with someone elses at a different address, realized, and had to come back and switch them. The funny part is that he parked down the street and tried to be very stealthy when switching the packages. I guess he was a little embarrassed. He looked like a little kid as he rang the doorbell and ran back to his truck with the other package. He was lucky that I put the wrong package back outside. I was considering opening it! Anyway... looking at the servo now has me thinking. What makes a servo waterproof? Couldn't I just caulk the seams and make any servo waterproof? Would it leak around the output shaft? I'm not considering it though because I plan on leaving the RX out of the sealed box, and it will be a cold day in Ecuador if this truck EVER sees anything but clean, dry pavement.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxxasTuesdays View Post
    Anyway... looking at the servo now has me thinking. What makes a servo waterproof? .
    Same thing as a receiver apparently, a whole lot of goo protecting the electronics.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZt7BuiNtc0

    Quote Originally Posted by TraxxasTuesdays View Post
    it will be a cold day in Ecuador if this truck EVER sees anything but clean, dry pavement.
    Truck? Bandit right, you pls don't tell me you are building a Rusty.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cunawarit View Post
    Same thing as a receiver apparently, a whole lot of goo protecting the electronics.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZt7BuiNtc0



    Truck? Bandit right, you pls don't tell me you are building a Rusty.
    Well.... technically... yes. A Rustler with a Bandit body. I would've built a Bandit if there were more aftermarket options for them... but it's all for the Rusty. Just think of it as a Bandit wide-mod. Also... Billet Rustler just doesn't have the same ring to it.

  33. #33
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    I'm putting a second order fourth (and hopefully final) order in for parts. Now that I know I can do my special procedure on the body, I can do it on the upper chassis too... so it's no longer worth making one so add upper chassis to the list. I think the STRC pins are the correct length IF I use the fiberglass tie bar. I didn't get a tie bar because at the time, I didn't know the STRC pins were made for them. Can someone tell me if that's true? Are they really made for use with the tie bar? I think I'm going to get a rear shock tower too. My home made tower wont look right sitting on top of all that billet. I may get bellcranks if anyone on here thinks they are worth it. I've had no problems with the stock ones so I don't think I'll get them. Then again... everything else will be cool looking except the white plastic bellcranks. Maybe I'll do my special procedure on them. So my question hidden in that massive statement is ARE THE STRC HINGE PINS DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH A TRAXXAS FIBERGLASS TIE BAR?

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Yes the STRC pins uses the tie bar. I just ordered an aluminium bar off eBay for something different.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    STRC makes alu bellcranks in different colors, or you can mod a slash bellcrank.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  36. #36
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    Nearly all of my parts are here! I got the big box of stuff today from RC Planet. Haven't built a Rustler from the ground up in quite a few months. I'm a little rusty (no pun intended). I'm happy with everything I've messed with so far. Pictures coming soon.

  37. #37
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    The box of goodies

    Mostly everything laid out on the table.

    Inside the RC Screwz kit.

    Front end is together.... sort of.

    Why you shouldn't use RPM bearing carriers and caster blocks together. Bent pins galore!

    E-Clips. My favorite piece of hardware on the whole truck! Don't you just love how they fly across the room... never to be seen again?

    Good lookin' rear!

    I spent 3 hours polishing that trans case.

    It's gonna' be sweet!!!

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Wow that transmission sure shined up... I guess I could still do that to mine, but I never thought about it.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  39. #39
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    I'm going to polish the whole thing. The REM arms need sanded first though I think I did something wrong. I only get maybe... 30 degrees of suspension travel on the front. I can't remember what normal looks like... but it seems like something is wrong. Not much past when the arms are horizontal in relation to the bulkhead, the bearing carriers hit the arms. Do they always do that? I didn't think they did but I can't remember. Also, it binds up when the arms are up because the camber links don't really clear the top of the caster block. They rub once they spin around far enough. I can take pictures if no one understands what I mean.

  40. #40
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    This is what im talking about with the caster block.

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