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  1. #41
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    Just wanted to give you guys a quick update. After completing the diff mod I've taken the truck out three times for 20 min sessions, running it through grass fields and back to back 6 foot high jumps. So far, no issues, and this is the first time that I've run it three times in a row without breaking anything. Feels good

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by CPrime View Post
    Well noted Fuzion
    For the double motor motor mount, which is 2x single motor plates stuck together:
    - you mention in your post here to grind the spur holder. I guess they are the fins on the back on the slipper hub? How much grinding is needed?
    - Screws...Are longer screws needed?
    Here are the stock screws on the motor plate:
    - Tranny: (4x) 3x12 BCS
    - Motor mount hinge post: (1x) 4x12 BCS. This one is going to get the M4 bolt/washer/lock nut "87GN treatment" (Thanks Doc...). An M4 x20 should do (?)
    - Finned Motor mount: (1x) 4x10 CS (mesh adjustment screw). looks short if you add 3mm from the motor plate.

    Am i getting this right?...
    About 1mm off the fins on the pressure plate is all that's needed, just enough so they don't rub the motor plate. A bench or disc grinder work great for this.

    All the screws you mentioned need to be 3mm longer than stock, to account for the added 3mm of the second motor plate. You may need to remove a small amount of material from the shock mount behind the motor for clearance as well.

    The double motor plate was the first real mod I did on my revo when it was just a few weeks old and I am still using the same 3 spur gears almost 3 years later.
    Last edited by candy76man; 08-03-2012 at 09:39 PM.
    -ERBE
    -Slash 4x4

  3. #43
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    hey!

    yeah the double motor mount is a good solution. i put longer screws just because i had some, but the stock ones are long enough to grab them both. i d still put longer tho.

    i also put longer and larger diameter screw the silver one that sets motor angle.

    and some thin tape around the big thing that the motor slides in

    the silver thing on the spur needs less than a mm grinding on its fins yeah!

    thats all i ve done to my motor and i put back my metal pinion and plastic spur and its all good ever since

  4. #44
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    oh by the way-

    i think you can no longer put the plastic cover above the spur after this mod. i dont remember well but maybe it has to be sacrificed (or modded as well )

  5. #45
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    Thanks a bunch for the replies! Now on the hunt for the screw set...
    As for the gear cover, I'll try to mod it if possible.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
    oh by the way-

    i think you can no longer put the plastic cover above the spur after this mod. i dont remember well but maybe it has to be sacrificed (or modded as well )
    You can still use the gear cover if you do a little dremeling on one of the plates. Here's a pic of the material I had to remove to be able to use the gear cover.


    -ERBE
    -Slash 4x4

  7. #47
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    k good one. how do you find this double mount mod in general candyman?

    sigh all these mods make me wanna just take it from the warehouse disassemble it to the last bearing fix it again a do a legend.... wait for it.... dary front flip darn heli takes all my hobby time lately and the crashes are SO expensive.

    to the topic. how is the pin holding up in the cup?

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
    k good one. how do you find this double mount mod in general candyman?

    sigh all these mods make me wanna just take it from the warehouse disassemble it to the last bearing fix it again a do a legend.... wait for it.... dary front flip darn heli takes all my hobby time lately and the crashes are SO expensive.

    to the topic. how is the pin holding up in the cup?
    Holding up great! That suggestion from candy76man (shrink wrap tubing ) worked out just fine. I'm going to give her a little more abuse tomorrow at the Ft Stevens meet, but it's been through 3 sessions already with no issues.

  9. #49
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    ok i wish it stays solid

    my best shot before the kershaw, instead of the shrink tube i had it wrapped with wire and then welded the wire with solder. pretty strong but the front one failed after 5-6 runs. so you know, if it fails build it stronger.

  10. #50
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    by the way this is an example of what my revo was going through daily ( and nothing broke from this lol)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOEMw0oJbrg

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
    by the way this is an example of what my revo was going through daily ( and nothing broke from this lol)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOEMw0oJbrg
    Wow ! That's some serious abuse

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
    k good one. how do you find this double mount mod in general candyman?

    sigh all these mods make me wanna just take it from the warehouse disassemble it to the last bearing fix it again a do a legend.... wait for it.... dary front flip darn heli takes all my hobby time lately and the crashes are SO expensive.

    to the topic. how is the pin holding up in the cup?
    It's worked great for me, I've been using the same three spur gears for three years now and they're all in great shape still.

    I understand the heli comment, got into them over a year ago myself.
    -ERBE
    -Slash 4x4

  13. #53
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    Great mod and pic candyman! Ordered the screw kit. I was looking for keeping the gear cover for my upcoming telemetry set, plus I don't really like exposed gears in general. The outerwears could get caught in it and get shredded...

  14. #54
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    Put the truck through lots this past weekend, and everything held up with no problems. Witnessed another ERevo blow a diff while we were bashing


  15. #55
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    Awesome vid Revoroller! Thanks for sharing

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by CPrime View Post
    Awesome vid Revoroller! Thanks for sharing
    Thanks bro!
    Wish you guys were closer to join in

  17. #57
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    Did you have trouble getting the HPP motor brace on ? It took me quite a while to get the be ace on the motor mine was a very tight fit...kept saying to my self this is impossible I had to spread the prongs apart to slide it on the motor
    ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4

  18. #58
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    I've bit the bullet and doing this mod...its gonna cost me around $150 with postage to OZ. I have absolutely had it with traxxas diffs. Another front diff gone today, just breaking hard while testing my new road rage tyres.

    Did you dremel your bulk head? How do you secure your diff in place to stop moving about, is that what the speed grip was for?
    Rock n Rolla !

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brewers74 View Post
    Did you have trouble getting the HPP motor brace on ? It took me quite a while to get the be ace on the motor mine was a very tight fit...kept saying to my self this is impossible I had to spread the prongs apart to slide it on the motor
    hi Brewers. Did you take the motor off, or leave it attached while slipping on the brace? I took my motor off by unscrewing the large silver screw that is used to adjust it, then pushed it back past the rear shock mount. It was very easy to slip on in that position. Once the motor is fully attached, the rear shock mount blocks the brace.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    I've bit the bullet and doing this mod...its gonna cost me around $150 with postage to OZ. I have absolutely had it with traxxas diffs. Another front diff gone today, just breaking hard while testing my new road rage tyres.

    Did you dremel your bulk head? How do you secure your diff in place to stop moving about, is that what the speed grip was for?
    I placed the diff into the bulkhead, and gradually shaved out material using the dremel. You can see the areas that are blocking the diff from fitting. Target those areas while shaving out the material. After this process I shaved out enough material to make the diff sit firmly into the bulkhead. I actually ended up with no play at all. I also shaved the diff mount on tha chassis down a little.

  21. #61
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    I didn't explain well enough it was the motor sleeve gave me trouble...yes I removed the motor
    ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4

  22. #62
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    How is that diff holding out so far...I blew another one yesterday. I've had it with the traxxas diffs .

    I have ordered my parts to this conversion. I use a centre cvd like you...how easy was it to get the dog bone out the cvd and how did you do it? Was it easy to put back in?
    Rock n Rolla !

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    How is that diff holding out so far...I blew another one yesterday. I've had it with the traxxas diffs .

    I have ordered my parts to this conversion. I use a centre cvd like you...how easy was it to get the dog bone out the cvd and how did you do it? Was it easy to put back in?
    There is a red sleeve on each end of the traxxas CVD. That is the end that connects to the diffs. Simply remove the blue boot from the red sleeve, and you can slide it off. Not sure if traxxas calls that part a sleeve, lol!
    Once that is off, the pin falls out very easily. That pin will be too short to work with the Losi cup that connects with the Losi diff. So you will need a longer pin. I just ordered the Losi pin, which was the perfect size and length for the application. The diagram with the part number for that pin is on page 1.
    The spacers are used to stop the ball end on the traxxas CVD from sliding around. I replaced the red traxxas sleeve with shrink wrap tubing to keep the pin in place.
    So far everything is working great. I'm now holding a personal record of 5 sessions in a row without breaking a diff. And on every session my truck is doing jumps.
    Also....just wanted to mention that I did not shim these Losi diffs

    Another good thing is that I see no signs of leakage from these diffs. I cleared my PM's, so I should be able to receive messages again

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoroller View Post
    There is a red sleeve on each end of the traxxas CVD. That is the end that connects to the diffs. Simply remove the blue boot from the red sleeve, and you can slide it off. Not sure if traxxas calls that part a sleeve, lol!
    Once that is off, the pin falls out very easily. That pin will be too short to work with the Losi cup that connects with the Losi diff. So you will need a longer pin. I just ordered the Losi pin, which was the perfect size and length for the application. The diagram with the part number for that pin is on page 1.
    The spacers are used to stop the ball end on the traxxas CVD from sliding around. I replaced the red traxxas sleeve with shrink wrap tubing to keep the pin in place.
    So far everything is working great. I'm now holding a personal record of 5 sessions in a row without breaking a diff. And on every session my truck is doing jumps.
    Also....just wanted to mention that I did not shim these Losi diffs

    Another good thing is that I see no signs of leakage from these diffs. I cleared my PM's, so I should be able to receive messages again
    Cheers mate...thanks for that. I just broke the rear left rocker and summit shaft and stripped the rear holes in the bulk head at the skate park. I went there at lunch to go and trash what was left of my diff before I put the Losi's in. I hit that big 1/4 pipe you see in my video at full speed. the truck must of aired about 40ft from the ground level out of the 1/4 pipe and travelled about 60+ft.

    It dropped out the sky and just landed on the spot...see attached pic. I wish I got a video of it...sometime in the near future I'll do it again. Funny thing, I didn't even completely destroy the diff. I must say, the E-Revo is one strong truck.



    Sorry for posting this here mate, I wanted to show you.
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 08-09-2012 at 12:07 AM.
    Rock n Rolla !

  25. #65
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    Is that part No. B3505...would the traxxas 5657 cross pins for the drive shaft do the job as I have a few of these lying around.
    Rock n Rolla !

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    Is that part No. B3505...would the traxxas 5657 cross pins for the drive shaft do the job as I have a few of these lying around.
    I don't think the Traxxas pin will be long enough. Yes, B3505 is what's needed.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Losi-LOSB350...#ht_2342wt_689

  27. #67
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    Took the Revo out to put on a little demo for kids at Washington DC's National Night Out.


  28. #68
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    revoroller, when you modded the losi diffs to use the traxxas axle stubs what size bearing did you use? and what gear oil?

  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by black67stang View Post
    revoroller, when you modded the losi diffs to use the traxxas axle stubs what size bearing did you use? and what gear oil?
    Used the same bearings that came on the Losi diffs. I used 60K diff oil front and rear.

  30. #70
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    Revoroller, what did you use to cut the traxxas axles? because i don't have anything at home that cut hardened steel...

  31. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashproff View Post
    Revoroller, what did you use to cut the traxxas axles? because i don't have anything at home that cut hardened steel...
    I used a hack saw.
    Rock n Rolla !

  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashproff View Post
    Revoroller, what did you use to cut the traxxas axles? because i don't have anything at home that cut hardened steel...
    I used a dremel. Make sure you use eye protection when cutting.

  33. #73
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    safety first... no joke..protect those eyes...
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  34. #74
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    thanks! and yeah i've almost lost an eye with a angle grinder trying to cut some steel

  35. #75
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    Old Thread

    So I managed to figure out another alternative method to get the lst diffs to fit. I realize that this thread is over a year old but I figured this information may help someone.

    Buy a cheap $20 Heat Gun off Amazon. Personally, I already had one from working on computers. place the diff between the two halves of the bulkhead, front or back. Heat the inside section with the non modified losi diff inside, "I know it doesn't fit yet but just keep the diff tight in the bulkhead", heat it to the point that the two bulkhead halves meet my melting the the plastic to form around the diff, at which point you are finished fitting the diff into the bulkhead with no loss of plastic. Use something heat resistant to hold the setup while doing this or you WILL get burned. Only part left to modify is the piece of the chassis that would meet up with the old diff, just dremel it down to a good fit.

  36. #76
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    RevoRoller, Do you guys still meet up at Ft.Stevens ?
    I didn't know u guys are around here.

  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcerkez View Post
    So I managed to figure out another alternative method to get the lst diffs to fit. I realize that this thread is over a year old but I figured this information may help someone.

    Buy a cheap $20 Heat Gun off Amazon. Personally, I already had one from working on computers. place the diff between the two halves of the bulkhead, front or back. Heat the inside section with the non modified losi diff inside, "I know it doesn't fit yet but just keep the diff tight in the bulkhead", heat it to the point that the two bulkhead halves meet my melting the the plastic to form around the diff, at which point you are finished fitting the diff into the bulkhead with no loss of plastic. Use something heat resistant to hold the setup while doing this or you WILL get burned. Only part left to modify is the piece of the chassis that would meet up with the old diff, just dremel it down to a good fit.

    So to bump this thread up again, I thought of doing this too and I think I am going to try it this week when my parts arrive, I like the idea of heating it much better since we won't lose the material but I always wondered how their "FRP" looking material would melt and shape, and also what it would do tot he temper of the plastic.

    I just ordered a new E-Revo and the losi parts to give the E-Revo thing another shot - if not I'll go back to touring cars...

    Really, the only reason I hung up my E-Revo before was the diffs...

  38. #78
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    @angus m what losi parts did you order exactly and from where? I am thinking about trying this diff upgrade, but I haven't seen any eBay offers that look like what people have shown in these threads.

  39. #79
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    no we haven't met up alot since but i am in greenbelt and i still jump out back with my skateboard ramp

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