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  1. #1
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    want the new proline transmission with the rpm bumper mount? I have your solution!

    Hey guys, ive been tinkering around a little bit, and i found a pretty good way to mock up the RPM bumper mount the the Proline transmission. I originally posted this on the rcshortcourse forums, and i felt you guys would like to see this too.

    Lenman73, that is the exact reason i race my slash. I love the sound when the announcer says a traxxas (insert name here) is beating them.
    Back on topic, guys, i have some wonderful news.
    I was messing around with the transmission i just received from tower hobbies, and i think i found a pretty good way to mount up the rpm bumper mount! so far there is one semi-weak spot, but it can be fixed. This is the first mock up, so some screws need to be shorter, and a little finessing it will be needed. So far, its looking good!
    Sorry if the quality isnt to good, im using an ipod touch for the pictures. Sometime later i will get my 16 mp camera for more detail.



    The little link you see there is actually just a slash 4x4 sway bar link.



    If you might ask, "thecoolman101, why isnt that link straight?" well, if you look on the side of the transmission, there is a little round peice that bulges out, for the inside bearing to fit. Well, unless i do some trimming to the link or the transmisson, the link will not go far down enough. another solution is the bend the link, but ill try trimming the end first.
    This is what i mean-



    This is whats getting in the way-



    You can easily see how i mounted one end of the link to the bumper mount but its not easy to see how the other end is mounted. That consists of a longer screw, 3 of the 4 small washers the proline kit comes with, and the ball end has one of the bump steer balls in it to have the depth of the countersinking dealt with.

    another view-



    When mounting the bumper mount, There are two very long screws comming with the kit. I am using these in the exact way as a regular traxxas mount. One difference is the small spacer for the gap when mounting it to the transmission. I used one of the small washers to get a little more of the gap filled, as it wouldnt mount straight.

    These are the screws and spacers im talking about-



    bottom, using the long screws-




    That is essentially how i mocked up the rpm bumper mount. Please tell me if you have any questions, or improvements you think can be made.

    Also, if you are wondering, The chassis im using is a thunder tech racing "outlaw" that had the sides cut down.
    if you want me to i can break your truck for free!

  2. #2
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    Well, made some more progress.
    Does your transmission have friction when you tighten down the screws on the motorplate/ transmission? I had ANOTHER fix for you!
    on the topshaft, there is a black spacer on the spur gear side. That spacer is just a hair to big. Take a file, and grind it down a little. Grind down a little at a time, untill you can tighten down your transmission to the tightness you like, and there will be no more friction!

    Quote Originally Posted by rustlersvxl4life View Post
    pretty innovative dude, keep up the good work
    Thanks, will do!

    Big problem guys, i broke the plastic trans case. Ill post pics momentarily.

    well, yes the trans case broke, but its fixed and better than ever.
    here is both halfs of the cracked trans case.





    here is what i did to fix it.



    The epoxy that is on the surface is removed, but the epoxy inside the crack completely fixed the crack on both halves.



    removed epoxy-



    put in the traxxas steel idler-



    Now, to fix the issue with the trans case cracking, im not sure if i messed this up myself or it was meant to be this way, but i only had the top two case screws going into the motor plate. There is a third un tapped hole where the bottom screw for the spur gear cover goes. I never ran a spur gear cover on my other transmission, so ill run without one here untill i get some new hardware to put it on.
    What i did is the bottom screw lines up with a case screw on the bottom of the case. I ran a longer screw and a nut through it to secure it. I hopefully fixed this issue, looks good.

    this is the longer screw-



    nut on other side of case-



    If i get a longer screw for the bottom hole i could mount the case.

    Any tips or ideas guys? im trying my best to make this better. I do plan on doing somthing on the bottom of the motorplate/bumper mount to secure it to the chassis so it would get rid of almost all of the possibility of breaking the case again.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 07-27-2012 at 08:22 PM. Reason: post merge
    if you want me to i can break your truck for free!

  3. #3
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    That support you attached to the trans case is the culprit most likely for the case failure. Too much energy forced to that tiny screw when landing or impacting that rear bumper.
    It's too bad Proline overlooked this problem with getting a good rigid bumper mount and an universal one to work with Traxxas and RPM etc......

    Best of luck to you and your efforts to solve that problem

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the comment, but i dont think that was the problem. I have the link on the rear hole, and there was no damage done to it. What i believe has happened is the motor plate hit the ground, (there is a small tab on the bottom) pushing to much force cracking by the rearmost screw, not the screw withthe link on it.
    if you want me to i can break your truck for free!

  5. #5
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    The problem is the entire gearbox is poorly designed. It's lazy execution of lazy engineering. Homebrew-mods to "fix" a $100 aftermarket transmission, combined with necessary inclusion of presumably inferior stock vehicle parts (who would have guessed a steel idler would work better... oh, right, Traxxas did. Years ago.) make for a poor product, plain and simple. And it's a shame. There was no need to "rush" this thing to market-- the Slash has been out for years. If refuse to believe PL spent aany proper amount of time designing this, much less testing it.

  6. #6
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    Hey Doc, I'm told a basher version will be coming out. Supposedly upgradable to it from the current PL trans.
    Slash 2WD: A4, MMP,Velineon,STRC,RPM,PL Trans

  7. #7
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    All they need to do is put in metal gears, change the material the toe block and gearbox are made out of, redesign the bumper mount, make the layshaft compatible with a proper range of gears, and they'll be well on their way to making the product they should have released in the first place.

  8. #8
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    Make it a bit more like an FLM?
    Slash 2WD: A4, MMP,Velineon,STRC,RPM,PL Trans

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    What about using a threaded link(red outline) with brake tubing(green outline) using 2 bolts on the end(blue outline). the way crawler guys make custom links? Its still gonna be a little flimsy, but should be more solid than what you have now...
    Sit down, buckle up, hold on, pay me...

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Isotope View Post
    The problem is the entire gearbox is poorly designed. It's lazy execution of lazy engineering. Homebrew-mods to "fix" a $100 aftermarket transmission, combined with necessary inclusion of presumably inferior stock vehicle parts (who would have guessed a steel idler would work better... oh, right, Traxxas did. Years ago.) make for a poor product, plain and simple. And it's a shame. There was no need to "rush" this thing to market-- the Slash has been out for years. If refuse to believe PL spent aany proper amount of time designing this, much less testing it.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Isotope View Post
    All they need to do is put in metal gears, change the material the toe block and gearbox are made out of, redesign the bumper mount, make the layshaft compatible with a proper range of gears, and they'll be well on their way to making the product they should have released in the first place.

    It's a real shame, but this is all too true. There is no way this thing was thoroughly tested before release and PL didn't have any issue. Pretty much every thread I've seen where someone has bought this trans has an issue (if not multiple issues) within the first week, sometimes sooner.

    This entire transmission is basically a carbon copy of the original Traxxas Magnum trans from back in the early 90's. I like the aluminum motor plate and separate arm mount/ toe block, but why plastic gear? Traxxas figured out a long time ago that the plastic gears in the Magnum trans (especially the idler, hence the aluminum idler that's been available for years and years) were weak. Why would PL think that copying this setup would work any better today with even bigger and better motors and batteries?


    The comment about the toe block material; Are people also having issues with those breaking? Haven't read it yet anywhere, but also wouldn't be the least bit surprised.




    Oh, and I'm willing to bet money that the OP's trans cases broke due to that link connecting the bumper to the top trans bolt. Not the best place for it. Would probably be way stronger if it was mounted to the bulkhead/tower area.
    Last edited by harry697; 07-28-2012 at 09:06 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    It's a real shame, but this is all too true. There is no way this thing was thoroughly tested before release and PL didn't have any issue. Pretty much every thread I've seen where someone has bought this trans has an issue (if not multiple issues) within the first week, sometimes sooner.

    This entire transmission is basically a carbon copy of the original Traxxas Magnum trans from back in the early 90's. I like the aluminum motor plate and separate arm mount/ toe block, but why plastic gear? Traxxas figured out a long time ago that the plastic gears in the Magnum trans (especially the idler, hence the aluminum idler that's been available for years and years) were weak. Why would PL think that copying this setup would work any better today with even bigger and better motors and batteries?


    The comment about the toe block material; Are people also having issues with those breaking? Haven't read it yet anywhere, but also wouldn't be the least bit surprised.




    Oh, and I'm willing to bet money that the OP's trans cases broke due to that link connecting the bumper to the top trans bolt. Not the best place for it. Would probably be way stronger if it was mounted to the bulkhead/tower area.
    Yes, this trans isnt the best design. I would love to see a basher edition, hopefully stonger..

    no, it is not an exact carbon copy, butit is very close. Some of the screw alignments are different, i actually tried chopping up a stock transmission to fit it, but no dice. close, but no cigar.

    Now, about the toe block material, yes, that peice is very flimsy. but, i honestly cant see them breaking aanytime soon. Unless the are stressed enough to where the plastic goes white or cracks, its gonna go back to the original position. I wish that proline would make the trans plastic out of the plastic they used for their protrac arms, i have yet to break any of those. and ive been running them for more that 1 1/2 years.

    Once again, i highly doubt that the trans case broke because of the link. everything on the top end BUT that part where the link is mounted broke. Yes, it probably added to the problem, but i dont really think thats the problem.

    Now, lets stop talking about the negatives of the trans. Lets try to improve upon it, like rag6. That looks like a pretty good idea, i think if i use the link and the idea you had, it will take care of the flimsiness. When the bumper is pushed on, the rpm bumper mount pushes towards the center of the truck. If that link is put there, it would stop it from moving out. Then, the link would also stop the bumper mount from going forward. Ill see what i can do with that.

    One thing i would like to see is if someone can think up of a way to make the rpm bumper mount have an actual connection to the chassis, skidplate, or however your application may be.

    I think i have an idea why proline skimped out on the bumper mount, weather it was intentional or not. They have made a skidplate for the stock slash that incorporates a bumper mount into it. That i believe would be the best excuse they would think of.


    one last thing, i will try mounting the link on the rear bulkhead, like you suggested. that might work out better.
    Last edited by thecoolman101; 07-28-2012 at 01:26 PM.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by thecoolman101 View Post
    Thanks for the comment, but i dont think that was the problem. I have the link on the rear hole, and there was no damage done to it. What i believe has happened is the motor plate hit the ground, (there is a small tab on the bottom) pushing to much force cracking by the rearmost screw, not the screw withthe link on it.
    Y our image shows the link connected to the front hole?

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwitty View Post
    Y our image shows the link connected to the front hole?
    +1. Besides that, the motor mount plate is attached by more than just those top screws. Landing on it should distribute the force fairly evenly throughout the trans. Granted, IMO there should be at least one more screw securing the motor plate, but the lower mount should be enough to keep the trans from breaking due to impact to the motor plate. I still say that link is what broke the trans.

    One question: Have there been any other reported cases of the trans cases breaking in half? If the answer is no, I would say it puts even more blame on that bumper mount link.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwitty View Post
    Y our image shows the link connected to the front hole?
    LOL whoops! yeah thats what i meant.
    Also, i put a longer link on, now it connects to the bulkhead of the shocktower. Much sturdier. And it was actually my fault the trans case broke, i was running without the gearcover or the two screws in, so only 2 mounting points were available.
    Last edited by thecoolman101; 07-29-2012 at 07:10 PM.
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thecoolman101 View Post
    LOL whoops! yeah thats what i meant.
    Also, i put a longer link on, now it connects to the bulkhead of the shocktower. Much sturdier. And it was actually my fault the trans case broke, i was running without the gearcover or the two screws in, so only 2 mounting points were available.
    No doubt it broke because the two top screws were the only thing holding the plate, plus the link being attached there. Kinda sketchy design that the dust cover screws are integral to the trans assembly. Is it possible to install the screws without the dust cover?

  16. #16
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    I've got the fix. It needs no links, pretty simple. Transfers shock-load to the chassis, not the tranny housing. Pics tomorrow.

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    On my modified cases, I just hacked off the now "extra" piece from the RPM mount. No problems yet, but on my truck, I use the Pro-Line rear skid. I find it to be an elegant solution to a stupid problem. This is something that RPM should rip off if PL doesn't want to make the skid anymore. As excited as I was about the PL trans, I'm waiting for v2.0. I agree with the good Dr. on this one, for sure. Your average Traxxas customer seems to enjoy sick power, myself included, and PL should have taken their intended customer's preferences into consideration.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I have been lusting those rear skids since right after they dissappeared

    True that blaster, I hope someone revisits what P-L started with that skid...
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ezra View Post
    I've got the fix. It needs no links, pretty simple. Transfers shock-load to the chassis, not the tranny housing. Pics tomorrow.
    Looking forward to some pictures.
    Slash 2WD: A4, MMP,Velineon,STRC,RPM,PL Trans

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    No doubt it broke because the two top screws were the only thing holding the plate, plus the link being attached there. Kinda sketchy design that the dust cover screws are integral to the trans assembly. Is it possible to install the screws without the dust cover?
    yes there is! look at this part of one of my last posts, a silver screw goes through the trans case and through the motor plate.



    nut on other side of case-

    if you want me to i can break your truck for free!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ezra View Post
    I've got the fix. It needs no links, pretty simple. Transfers shock-load to the chassis, not the tranny housing. Pics tomorrow.
    i was waiting for these pics since i saw them on rcshortcourse. if youre using the traxxas mount, i might not want to use this, though.
    if you want me to i can break your truck for free!

  22. #22
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    how is your guys rpm mounts holding up? I'm in the same boat now trying to get an RPM bumper to fit. I think proline should release a mount that will accept the RPM bumper.

  23. #23
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    Sorry if I'm repeating any of the above,But I wouldn't want the pro line trans if it were gold plated,with platinum bearings.
    The trans (in my opinion)Is junk!! plane and simple JUNK.
    It cant take the power.
    It cant take the abuse,of real short coarse racing.
    Its quality rating is that of a Kmart $39 toy.
    And now,discontinuing their skid plate,Wonder is that's because they want you to by their new chassis kit?
    After the trans failure,It wouldn't surprise me to see rpm putting pro line out of business.
    Neither of my slashes will ever contain another pro line part or decal promoting their name.
    Unless they admit their failure and make amends to all those they ripped off!
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    Sorry if I'm repeating any of the above,But I wouldn't want the pro line trans if it were gold plated,with platinum bearings.
    The trans (in my opinion)Is junk!! plane and simple JUNK.
    It cant take the power.
    It cant take the abuse,of real short coarse racing.
    Its quality rating is that of a Kmart $39 toy.
    And now,discontinuing their skid plate,Wonder is that's because they want you to by their new chassis kit?
    After the trans failure,It wouldn't surprise me to see rpm putting pro line out of business.
    Neither of my slashes will ever contain another pro line part or decal promoting their name.
    Unless they admit their failure and make amends to all those they ripped off!
    I know this thread is gettin old but I wanted to add that hot racing makes a full metal diff and idler gear kit for this trans. Also the Pro2 rear bumper made for this trans is nice because it doesnt sit low and scrape like rpm.

    Im running mmp with 4000kv 4 pole flux vektor motor (CC) on 3s so i will give an honest review after trying it out. I also got jconcepts silent gears, sc10 hi torque pads. You have drill out center of AE style gears to 5mm but no biggie theyr cheap & available.

    I dont believe his case would of broke had he not rigged up the rpm bumper. It has some great features including ones for added durability and smoothness so you cant say its total pos. well we'll find out sure is sexy. Its got nice bearings already but i got better ones for it too
    Last edited by RallySoob; 02-06-2013 at 08:41 AM.
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  25. #25
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    I have the Pro 2 bumper now. Can you post up a link to the hot racing metal diff and idler gear?
    Slash 2WD: A4, MMP,Velineon,STRC,RPM,PL Trans

  26. #26
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    the diff is under the slash 2wd section on the hr site google hot raceing rc
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  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigART71 View Post
    I have the Pro 2 bumper now. Can you post up a link to the hot racing metal diff and idler gear?
    Here is the diff:

    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...r=TE38PRO;c=72


    This is news to me. I knew HR made a sealed diff for the Traxxas trans, but not for the PL. There may actually be some hope for the PL transmission after all!

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Well I'll be dam,(well i knew that),but if this is true,all my time has been in vain.,I was 1.5 steps from mounting a steel traxxas gear on a pro line diff.
    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Here is the diff:

    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...r=TE38PRO;c=72


    This is news to me. I knew HR made a sealed diff for the Traxxas trans, but not for the PL. There may actually be some hope for the PL transmission after all!
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Here is the diff:

    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...r=TE38PRO;c=72


    This is news to me. I knew HR made a sealed diff for the Traxxas trans, but not for the PL. There may actually be some hope for the PL transmission after all!
    Thanks for that. Looks like I know what I'll do next for an upgrade.
    Slash 2WD: A4, MMP,Velineon,STRC,RPM,PL Trans

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    I don't really like the price tag between a PL trans, HR sealed diff and upgraded idler gear, but it does seem like it would make a really nice racing trans. The RPM setup and HR diff still seems like a great setup at a much better price, but I do like the over-sized out drive bearings and slipper on the PL trans. Decisions, decisions............

  31. #31
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    It seems kind of crazy that when you buy what is supposed to be the top aftermarket racing tranny for 2WD Traxxas models you have to then scrap the internals to make it usable.

    FWIW harry, the HR diff has worked great for me so far! My only worry is long term reuse of the seals as they don't seem to sell new ones. RPM case + HR diff is in my opinion THE best tranny solution out there when you factor in costs. Will probably switch from my HR tranny case to an RPM case sometime.
    Last edited by cunawarit; 02-07-2013 at 06:11 AM.

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Since I already have every thing but the aluminum plate,witch I plan to make myself out of 4mm,I might as well get it. I'll have a two hundred dollar trans,but um in to deep to stop now.
    And still want to finish trying my home designed steel geared diff.
    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    I don't really like the price tag between a PL trans, HR sealed diff and upgraded idler gear, but it does seem like it would make a really nice racing trans. The RPM setup and HR diff still seems like a great setup at a much better price, but I do like the over-sized out drive bearings and slipper on the PL trans. Decisions, decisions............
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    As soon as my hr diffs get here,I'm going to find out the size of the o ring seals they use,they look like any o rings you can get at ace or any auto parts store.and post the part # for everyone.
    Quote Originally Posted by cunawarit View Post
    It seems kind of crazy that when you buy what is supposed to be the top aftermarket racing tranny for 2WD Traxxas models you have to then scrap the internals to make it usable.

    FWIW harry, the HR diff has worked great for me so far! My only worry is long term reuse of the seals as they don't seem to sell new ones. RPM case + HR diff is in my opinion THE best tranny solution out there when you factor in costs. Will probably switch from my HR tranny case to an RPM case sometime.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  34. #34
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    Cool billy That would be of MASSIVE help!!!

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    Here is my build thread that shows the metal diff gears and all that if your curious. They fit nice

    http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=171018
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    Thanks RallySoob, nice build.

    Have you had time to try it and and see how she runs with the upgrade?
    Slash 2WD: A4, MMP,Velineon,STRC,RPM,PL Trans

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    As soon as my hr diffs get here,I'm going to find out the size of the o ring seals they use,they look like any o rings you can get at ace or any auto parts store.and post the part # for everyone.
    Much appreciated. They don't look like anything special. If I had the diff in my hands, it probably wouldn't take but a few minutes at the auto parts store to match it up. But I'll let you do the leg work.

    At the shop I quit working at a few months ago, we had several organizers full of o-rings. Some were for A/C systems, but there was a bin full of black ones for transmissions and different hydraulic applications. Guaranteed the correct size was in there somewhere.

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