Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 144

Thread: My XO-1 mods

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180

    My XO-1 mods

    Bought an XO-1 off of a seller on ebay a couple of weeks ago and I have to say WOW... Seriously??? Not bashing on Traxxas or anything but hmmm... This thing is suppose to go 100+ with all the slop/play everywhere?

    The car is now completely stripped and the modding process has begun Time to make this thing a 100+ arrow…



    1st the main source of the problem, the front steering block and that funky screw with the the built in bushing? I’m replacing the screw/bushing with 3x6x2.5 flanged bearings. Since it’s a 5mm opening and the smallest OD flanged bearing is 6mm I’m reaming it out to 6mm top and bottom.



    Get the best and highest ABEC rated bearings (not ceramic guys) cause it will take some beating @ 100+. You don’t wanna go cheap here cause the last thing you would want this car to fail on you while driving is the steering… Next lathe the steering block down evenly on both top and bottom and you’re done!!!



    Add shims in the right places to reduce binding and achieve silky sexy smooth slop free steering!!!



    2nd problem arms and pins. Diametor of the pins is 3.16mm while the holes in the arms they're 3.27mm




    Ream the holes out to 3.49mm and pick up some 3.5mm shock shafts and cut it down to size




    Waiting for a few more parts and more mods coming soon ENJOY

    $20 Air cooled 12V .08mah draws with 17cfm 34cfm combined.




    Last edited by cooleocool; 07-25-2012 at 06:10 AM. Reason: post merge

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    335
    Looks awesome! Keep up the good work!
    ERBE, MERV BB

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    173
    what did you use to ream out the castor blocks

  4. #4
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    put it in a drill press and vise it down with a reamer like this one on ebay

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TECHNICUT-...item4aacf2a72e

    and the braided cover got them from fry's electronics.

    Cant wait for my ultimate mods. You guys gonna love this
    Last edited by FartOfDoom; 07-25-2012 at 03:35 PM.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    265
    Quote Originally Posted by FartOfDoom View Post
    You guys gonna love this
    Can't wait!!

  6. #6
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    167
    Where do you get the braided wire covers?

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    4,377
    Looks very good! "Slop" is something I found in every truck... And, it's fun to fix it...

    200, 202, 420, humor 404, 301 to rc10talk, 410.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    692
    what are u using to hold the steering blocks with the bearing carriers after you install the bearings on the steering blocks
    XO-1,SLASH 4X4 ,SLASH 2WD , 2/RUSTLER

  9. #9
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    It's actually sandwiched between flanged bearings, 4 bearings total per side, 8 3x6x2.5 flanged total. Lathe the bearing block down at 5 degree angel so there's no binding between the block and outer part of the bearing


    Last edited by FartOfDoom; 07-26-2012 at 12:09 AM.

  10. #10
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    o-rings front and rear center shaft to reduce shaft movement


    3x8x2mm washer on the motor mount screw for a better hold
    Last edited by FartOfDoom; 07-26-2012 at 03:02 AM.

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    692
    pretty slick , and very clean
    XO-1,SLASH 4X4 ,SLASH 2WD , 2/RUSTLER

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    4,377
    I'm saying it again, I like it!

    200, 202, 420, humor 404, 301 to rc10talk, 410.

  13. #13
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    94
    Great idea for the front steering. Was thinking of ways to fix this. I have ordered some 1/8 id bronze bushings for the a-arm pivots. I will also be installing them in the bulkheads. The od of the bearings is 3/16 which will weaken the arm slightly so I will be adding a carbon fiber wrap around to strengthen it.
    Where did you order your flanged bearings for the steering? The bushings I ordered took three weeks to get. These small sizes are not common.
    Last edited by X2guy; 07-26-2012 at 05:07 PM.

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    94
    I picked up these a-arms thinking they might have addressed some of the slop but no good. I think I may use your 3.5mm shock shaft idea on these. They are slightly thinner than the stock a-arm so thare may not be enough material for the bushings to be fitted.

  15. #15
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    The bearings they're Racers Edge

    http://www.racers-edge.com/Ball_Bear.../rcet02080.htm

    You'll be surprise how mush slop is coming from the pins

  16. #16
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    Here's a preview of what's coming


    Rear end coming together nicely. Lubed all moving parts with white lithium

  17. #17
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    173
    What shock shafts did you use to make the suspension pins?? I dont want to order some only to find out they are too short.

  18. #18
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    They're HPI 100950 Shock Shaft 3.5x90mm. It's 90mm so plenty to play with. BTW you're going to need at least 6" #28 .1405" drill bit for the front
    Last edited by FartOfDoom; 07-27-2012 at 11:24 PM.

  19. #19
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    173
    Is that to ream out the bulkhead?? Can you not use an arm reamer

  20. #20
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    yep it's for the front bulkhead. The triangle looking part on the front of the bulkhead is too far out for a normal length drill bit

  21. #21
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    @ 100+ MPH the foam bumper would be like paper against a bowling ball, so how about a real working front air intake?



    Almost done. A few measurements and black paint
    Last edited by FartOfDoom; 07-29-2012 at 04:55 AM.

  22. #22
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    30
    very nice work. I am no engineer, but the question I have is all that air coming in the front bumper would it make it unstable at 100+ mph?
    never can own to many rc cars
    to many to list

  23. #23
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    yep it will be very unstable @ 100+, the intake will act like a parachute and it will flip very easily. the only solution would be more weights to hold down the front, or canards to product more down force. I'm going with canards and stiffen the front end of the body

  24. #24
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    the middle part of the body is pretty weak without any support. so my solution 5th and 6th body post. I'll probably mount it using magnets instead of using body pins and drill a hole. if it flips over the body post wont last too long grinding on pavement



  25. #25
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    692
    hopefully we see a meshed out vent hole on the bumper lol
    XO-1,SLASH 4X4 ,SLASH 2WD , 2/RUSTLER

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Redvers, Sk, Canada (eh)
    Posts
    826
    love it! very clean...i'd really like to see where this is going!
    Your nitro is fat...It ate my Brushless Dust!!!!

  27. #27
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    almost done on the intake




  28. #28
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    OMG!!! here's with the body on... looks so aggressive!!!



  29. #29
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    finally done with the front canards



  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    692
    are you going to cut the rear of the body also ?
    XO-1,SLASH 4X4 ,SLASH 2WD , 2/RUSTLER

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    3,432
    Wow... That looks MEAN! Def throw down some black mesh on the front for sure, IMO. Thatd looks sic, But great job, and clean work. I too am ALL about removing slop big time. Even on vehicles that dont go anywhere near 100mph. Nice work!
    Build, Bash, Clean, Repair, Repeat..

  32. #32
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    30
    that looks mean... to nice to drive i would make that a shelf queen.
    never can own to many rc cars
    to many to list

  33. #33
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    Thanks guys this car is AWESOME!!! I took it out to my local airfield yesterday and this thing hauls!! This thing comes at you very quickly

    With all the mods the car feels like it's on rail most of the time. I did notice a bit of a drag in the rear though, is it because of the body? Anyone notice this?

    Looks like it's going back on the table for more mods
    Last edited by Double G; 07-31-2012 at 08:31 PM. Reason: language

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    San Jose, Costa Rica
    Posts
    704
    Nice build.
    I have a question:
    What are you using to power the fans?
    Sl4sh MM2
    T-Maxx 3.3
    Summit 1/10
    Sl2sh VXL

  35. #35
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    173
    It will be interesting to see what you come up with for the rear. Some of the people on the forum have been cutting out the rear section of the shell, same as you have done on the front.

  36. #36
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    DBG I'm using 3s 2200mah lipos for the fans. Connect the fans in a parallel configuration and add a plug to make it simple.

    I've seen some of the mods where people cut the exhaust sticker right on top of the diffuser for rear vent, I'm cutting the part where it looks like a license plate area right below the lights right in the middle. That's where I'm thinking it's causing the rear drag, and plus it wont mess with the air flow of the rear diffuser.

  37. #37
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Norf Cackalacky
    Posts
    452
    Also, I like your mods but I'm curious why you did the front air dam mod. Where will the air go? I think it's better to force it over the car and use it for downforce then to channel it inside. Maybe I'm missing some stuff you haven't posted.

    With body mods I have been doing, I have been able to apply enough downforce to scrape the front end and I don't even use the "high speed splitter" for drag reasons.

  38. #38
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Garden Grove CA
    Posts
    180
    The front air duct will be going to the esc to help it stay cool at high speed. Been reading everywhere on how they heat up and die on people so that's the solution. Still waiting on the light weight flexible hose from china though for that mod to be complete.

    The front of the car I had notice that the factory canard is very flexible, so I don't think it's reliable for 100+ runs.

    This is what I did for more rear DF. Just add a hard rubber o-ring to the back of the wing mounting screw to lift it up in the back. Try one first to see if it's enough DF for you. Add two and you might scrape the rear diffuser so stiffen springs in the rear.


    Also make a mounting plate for the rear body mount and wing. The body is very soft so this helps transfer the DF to the rear wheels. Do the same for the front, it's much easier.


    With all the air going inside the car it's actually trapped in the rear and forces it downward right where the diffuser is so it'll create a bit of a lift and act like a parachute. I added vents on top rather than right next to diffuser.






    Also slvr bullet I think this car is very capable of reaching very high speed if you have time, money and patience. Most of my mods here will help you getting more df. If you have any questions or need help lmk.
    Last edited by FartOfDoom; 08-02-2012 at 02:42 AM.

  39. #39
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    30
    thanks for the pics will get my project started. Time and money I have its patience is my problem
    never can own to many rc cars
    to many to list

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    265
    Nice job! Thanks for sharing it

    Q: how do you cut the lexan, it looks quite clean!

    Did you cut cut other vents, then the one in the "license plate area"?

    Thanks!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •