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  1. #41
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    Are the caps wired in series or parallel?

  2. #42
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    Yaleman:
    The caps are wired in series.



    Here are some more pictures for you guys I just took from some different angles and better lighting. The thing is I twisted the positive wires together and the negative wires together making them able to touch the ports of the ESC. Then I hot glued the capacitors so that the won't be able to move and so the two separate wires won't touch.

    Yesterday I took my boat out for a test drive and I couldn't really test the mod. The thing is the motor now is able to get all the power it wants to preform way better then before and my drive-shaft was heat fused to the coupler on the motor. So I had to wait for it to cool off and was able to loosen it up enough to take it off. I guess now I would need a new shaft because the one I have now the threads are worn down and so is the couplers'. So now I have to find either an upgrade or buy the stock ones again. Any upgrades on those??



    http://s1217.photobucket.com/albums/...3D100_0973.jpg


    Let me know what you guys think!!
    Last edited by Rocky; 08-19-2012 at 01:27 PM.

  3. #43
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    Thanks for the extra pics Rocky. I plan on doing the same thing. I just need to unsolder my single one and go with the dual setup like yours....

    as for your drive shaft...best to get a new one! I wouldnt reccomend trying to use a flex shaft that has signs of wear, since its only going to get worse and do more damage. I reccomend rcraceboat.com and pick up one of jeff wholts .187 or .150 (stock size) shafts. They are way better than stock. Dealing with Jeff can be a little tricky sometimes as he does the RC business on the side, so email back and forth can be slow. It took me about 2-3 weeks from initial email to delivery, but its well worth it! I would also order another stuffing tube as well since you said it was fused or melted...

  4. #44
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    I picked up 10 caps from the cap king .60 each free shipping Rubycon ZLH 35v 1000uF 12.5X20mm

  5. #45
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    What temp rating are those good for? Are they low ESR?
    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  6. #46
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    Same ones sold at kracing for .75
    105oC Miniaturized, Long Life, Low impedance
    Rated Voltage: 35v
    Rated Capacitance: 1000uF
    Capacitance Tolerance: 20%
    Temperature Range: -40 to 105C
    Rated Ripple Current: 2480

  7. #47
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    Is it low ESR though? I emailed Joe over at Castle to see how you can tell the low ESR from the non-low esr.
    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  8. #48
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    Well according to their web site...."We sell the top quality aluminum electrolytic ultra low ESR capacitors from Rubycon .. Rubycon ZLH 35v 1000uF 12.5X20mm"

  9. #49
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    There's no RS in Canada, so I went to my LES, they only have the 1000uf with 50vdc, will this work? And if I put the Capacitor, can I still use my 7cell NIMH Batterries?
    Sharing is the best thing to do on EARTH legally.

  10. #50
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    I did some searching around and it looks like they are low ESR according to OSE.com.

    http://thecapking.com/35zlh1000.html

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...k-cap-35v-1000
    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edgemoulic View Post
    There's no RS in Canada, so I went to my LES, they only have the 1000uf with 50vdc, will this work? And if I put the Capacitor, can I still use my 7cell NIMH Batterries?
    Yes you can, the capacitor has nothing to do with NiMh or Lipo use. It should work just fine on NiMh

  12. #52
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    Rocky - Have you tried out the dual capacitors yet? How did the temps turn out?

  13. #53
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    I Went ahead and ordered some of the capacitors from Capking on wednesday at .60 a piece with free shipping. I think that is a good deal in my opinion. They arrived today, and I promptly removed the single RS capacitor I had on there and put on the double just as Rocky has shown us with the pictures above. The only thing I did differently was to add some solder on the wire twist between the two caps. I wont get a chance to run this for a few days, but I look forward to the results. I have a feeling the capacitance load shared between 4 capacitors will be much better than just the stock ones, with the end result being lower temps across the board!

  14. #54
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    Thats how I set mine up, wired 2 together in series, soldered the wires, covered with heat shrink, then soldered to ESC. Running boat with dual water cooler/esc p/u, oversize tubing, oversize motor cooling jacket, quad trim tabs, traxxas stainless bearings drive strut, stock drive shaft, Octura 442 prop, batteries Venom lipos 5000mah 35c. After hard running 3/4 throttle with full bursts for 7-8 mins brought boat in to check heat, stock caps around 140-145F, added caps 110-115F, batteries 110F, motor 100F. Placed boat back in water and ran again same running until batteries gave out temps remained about the same. One thing I have noticed on using my other set of lipos 5000mah 65-130C that everthing runs way cooler, don't know if this is due to the higher C rated batteries or not!

    *the boat is pretty hairy at full throttle!
    Last edited by Double G; 11-06-2012 at 12:48 PM. Reason: banned site removed

  15. #55
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    Yes, higher C rating helps! Although I run 5000 mah 3s 65-130C Gens Ace packs and can only manage 4.5 - 5 minutes on mostly 1/2 to 3/4 throttle with WOT burst every so often. I dont know how you get run times so much longer than me! I also have all the mods you mentioned.

  16. #56
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    Overall I manage about 10 mins or so run time before I have to head into shore running average 1/2 throttle with wot bursts, quick but fun! I have a leopard 4082 and seaking 180esc to install for upgrade as well as a new .150 traxxas shaft from jeff on order.

  17. #57
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    Yaleman what do you have your trim tabs set at with the 442 prop?
    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  18. #58
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    Trim tabs adjusted so that the outside tips are flush with outside strake of the boat. I just used a ruler to align. I have my batteries as far forward in the compartment as they can go. My boat rides very smooth and handles great!

  19. #59
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    Jetnfast-

    The thing is I put hot-glue in order to attach it to the esc so that the wires won't go anywhere!

    Also the capacitors are working AMAZING no heating up at ALL! There is only one small mechanical problem I am experensing and that is the shaft getting so hot it begins to slip??

    I had bought a brand new couple and shaft thinking they where the colperates but the new ones did the same thing? Could it be my grease?

    Any Advice on how to fix a slipping shaft??
    Last edited by Rocky; 08-27-2012 at 07:35 AM.

  20. #60
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    Hey Jetnfast,

    Thanks, I did twist the wires underneath them but the thing is I attached it to the esc with hot glue so that the wires won't move. They are pretty stable are don't move at all they just wiggle a little at the top (given its hand rigged).

    Sorry duplicate...

  21. #61
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    Guys - for those of you who have added the additional capacitor, have you notice your cap temps decreasing when you compare the added ones to the ESC ones? In my case, when I get back from a run, the two additional, plus the stock Caps on the ESC are all about 145-160 degrees? I figured since I added the additional caps, the temps would decrease across all the caps? that doesnt seem to be the case?

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by yaleman View Post
    , wired 2 together in series,!
    you are not suppose to wire it in parallele to double tha capacity ?
    Don t Go Fast if you are out of Control !!!!

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banzee View Post
    you are not suppose to wire it in parallele to double tha capacity ?
    Yes, parrallel. I have the postives twisted together (from each cap) and the negatives (same), then both the positive and negative leads from the twisted cap wires are attached to the solder posts. I would post a pic, but this forum doesnt seem to allow direct posting to the forum, which is not helpful.

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetnfast View Post
    Yes, parrallel. I have the postives twisted together (from each cap) and the negatives (same), then both the positive and negative leads from the twisted cap wires are attached to the solder posts. I would post a pic, but this forum doesnt seem to allow direct posting to the forum, which is not helpful.
    I just did this same mod and set them up as you described. I did notice a decrease in temps across the board


    Beatings will continue until compliance is gained
    uh oh.... that didn't sound good

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetnfast View Post
    Yes, parrallel. I have the postives twisted together (from each cap) and the negatives (same), then both the positive and negative leads from the twisted cap wires are attached to the solder posts. I would post a pic, but this forum doesnt seem to allow direct posting to the forum, which is not helpful.
    I have seen it stated to wire the caps in series....Not what to do if you want to increase capacitance.......Capacitors need to be wired in parallel to increase capacitance, capacitors wired in parallel are like resistors in series and vice versa.

    Two 1000uf @35vdc in parallel will give you 2000uf @ 35vdc.
    If you wire the caps in series, they act like resistors in parallel. Two 1000uf caps in series will give you 500uf.

    Hope this helps.....
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetnfast View Post
    Guys - for those of you who have added the additional capacitor, have you notice your cap temps decreasing when you compare the added ones to the ESC ones? In my case, when I get back from a run, the two additional, plus the stock Caps on the ESC are all about 145-160 degrees? I figured since I added the additional caps, the temps would decrease across all the caps? that doesnt seem to be the case?
    Yes, I have seen a decrease of about 20-30 deg with the single additional cap.
    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  27. #67
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    I wired mine exactly as Rocky has done (depicted in the link below), which is two additional caps wired in parallel. I am not seeing a decrease in temps, even going from one additional capacitor to two additional capacitors there is no decrease in cap temps. All 4 caps measure about 150-165 after a run. Not sure why....

    Rocky's pics:

    http://s1217.photobucket.com/albums/...-40-38_713.jpg

  28. #68
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    I also did mine as Rocky has shown. Before the mod, I couln't touch the stock caps after a full run. Now, all 4 caps are 132 f
    This mod really helped me keep the heat down. I did however have a battery blow out and some smoke. Calle dthe manufacture of the battery and was informed to set the ESC cutoff at 3.6 to prevent any more damage to other batteries. You will need the castle link to do this
    uh oh.... that didn't sound good

  29. #69
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    132F isnt too far off of my mine. I average about 150-165F. Before castle replaced my ESC, I was seeing 250-260F on the stock caps.

  30. #70
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    Is there any reason to prefer multiple capacitors wired in parallel vs. a single larger capacitor with equivalent capacitance (all other values equal)?

  31. #71
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    The only reason would be space requirements. I actually think one larger capacitor might be easier to work with but would be some what bulky for use on 1/10th or smaller scale rc boats, cars or airplanes. One eight scale or larger boats etc have more space to work with.
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by orca44 View Post
    The only reason would be space requirements. I actually think one larger capacitor might be easier to work with but would be some what bulky for use on 1/10th or smaller scale rc boats, cars or airplanes. One eight scale or larger boats etc have more space to work with.
    From what I have researched, multiple smaller capacitors (same size as stock) are better at absorbing the ripple and spikes than 1 single larger capacitor. This is also the way the Cappack is designed.

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