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  1. #1
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    Castle Creations CapPack Capacitor Bank

    Guys, while I wait for my ESC to come back from Castle, I have been obviously thinking about the capacitor situation. I saw that castle offers this product....

    http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...-cap-pack.html

    Looks like it would help ease the load on the 2 capacitors on the ESC by adding more. It seems pricey, but looks to be a clean installation. I also see no mention of use for boats, only planes, heli's, and cars/trucks. I think that has to do with some type of marine certification, but nonetheless I dont see why it wouldnt work. I am thinking about ordering it and giving it a try with my fresh ESC...thoughts??

  2. #2
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    Adding caps is a common solution to enhance spike protection.

    You would just have to make sure the voltage on the caps matches or exceeds to voltage on the existing caps.

    Hog
    Last edited by hog; 07-21-2012 at 08:20 PM.

  3. #3
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    From the pictures it looks like each one is 50v x 4 caps. So would that equal 200v extra? I dont have my Spartan Castle ESC on hand since it was shipped back, can anyone tell me what the stock ones are rated? I think they might be the same since I remember the stock ones were temp rated to 105 deg C, which is identical to these...

  4. #4
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    From what I have been reading they are wired in parallel so voltage will remain the same, capacity will increase.

    Hog

  5. #5
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    The stock ones are rated at 35V 1000 UF.

    When I spoke to Joe over at Castle he actually recommended adding an external cap which can be purchased at Radio Shack.
    He said one trick I could try to help balance things out and to minimize ripple effect would be to go to radio shack and purchase an Aluminum electrolytic low esr (35 volt 1000 microfarad(UF)). This is essentially like adding another cap to the unit and will help to store energy during any amp bursts during pulls. They are soldered onto the + - bridge posts. They also have a + and - so do not install them backwards as you will blow up a battery if installed incorrectly.

    In my opinion, the option you found looks even better. I'm not getting dangerous temperatures on the ESC... but I am noticing that one CAP (ESC GROUND POST SIDE) runs about 30 degree's hotter than the other. Very good find though. I may just buy this instead of running the single 35v from radio shack. It's always better to be safe than sorry... especially since I'll be trying out the Pranther 215 and Octura 442 prop soon.
    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  6. #6
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    Yeah, I am pretty much sold on this CapPack. I am sure adding the capacitors directly to the ESC wouldnt be too hard, but this is a much CLEANER install, and for $20-$25 bucks, its perfect. I am going to order one this morning so that way when my ESC gets back from castle I can install it all at so I dont have to take it out of the boat again.

  7. #7
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    If possible, get some pics of the install, I'm sure there will be several folks here interested to see the install and hear your opinion on how they perform.

    Hog

  8. #8
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    Tag for results

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by hog View Post
    If possible, get some pics of the install, I'm sure there will be several folks here interested to see the install and hear your opinion on how they perform.

    Hog
    Will do, I was planning on posting some pics. I am also thinking of attaching only one EC5 connector to the ESC (with the capPack installed). This way I can then attach a series EC5 conector to it for a 6s setup or a parallel EC5 connector to it if I want to run 5s. My only concern with this option is the wire leads might be a little longer and it will have 2 EC5 connectors total in line. I think the addition of the CapPack will negate the longer leads giving me the option of either series or parallel.

  10. #10
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    Hey jetnfast

    I was wondering how would you add the additional cc pack to the original ESC? And won't they be vulnerable to water?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetnfast View Post
    Will do, I was planning on posting some pics. I am also thinking of attaching only one EC5 connector to the ESC (with the capPack installed). This way I can then attach a series EC5 conector to it for a 6s setup or a parallel EC5 connector to it if I want to run 5s. My only concern with this option is the wire leads might be a little longer and it will have 2 EC5 connectors total in line. I think the addition of the CapPack will negate the longer leads giving me the option of either series or parallel.
    That is how I'm setup and my wires are not overly lengthy, and I have no problems with extremely hot cap temps.

    You are right though, the extra caps should help.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
    Hey jetnfast

    I was wondering how would you add the additional cc pack to the original ESC? And won't they be vulnerable to water?
    My plan is to add them aft of the ESC body. If you look at the diagram on the Castle website for the product, there are two post that are soldered in line with the positive and negative wires. I also plan to use some heat shrink wrap over the whole CapPack assembly when I am done. I dont think it matters if its watter proof or not, but it wouldnt hurt to spray it with some of that waterproofing electronics stuff.

    I ordered it today, but my ESC is not back from Castle so it might be a week or two before I get to put it together.

  13. #13
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    Alright sounds good keep us posted!!

  14. #14
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    I took Castle's advice and added a 1000uF Cap. ESC & Lipo temps were about 10-20 degree's cooler with LOTS of hard running on 6s with both Stock, Pranther s215, and Octura X442 props. Lipo's used were Traxxas 25c 5000, MaxAmps 100c 6000mah, and ThunderPower 65C 5000mah's.



    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  15. #15
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    Awesome thanks for sharing. Gonna stop by the local RS tomorrow

  16. #16
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    The new Seaking 180 ESCs have seven capacitors now instead of three.

  17. #17
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    looks great! I hope to mod my castle one with the cappack and go from 2 to 6!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJS View Post
    The new Seaking 180 ESCs have seven capacitors now instead of three.
    Did you previously have the Version 2 Seaking, which did not have the added Cap. bank? I was wondering why your Seaking toasted and mine seems indestructible. Bare in mind, I run on 6s, with a Leopard 1600kv motor, Octura X447 prop, and beat the crap out of it.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIFTT IX MR View Post
    Did you previously have the Version 2 Seaking, which did not have the added Cap. bank? I was wondering why your Seaking toasted and mine seems indestructible. Bare in mind, I run on 6s, with a Leopard 1600kv motor, Octura X447 prop, and beat the crap out of it.
    Mine did have the seven Cap bank. I think I may have burnt it up because it had gotten wet early in the summer. I dried it out and worked for many weeks after then burnt up. I am now trying to waterproof the ESCs better so they can not get wet.

  20. #20
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    I spoke to Castle about this Cap Bank... they do not recommend it as it's not designed to get wet. I'm sure you can figure something out to water proof it.
    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyV View Post
    I spoke to Castle about this Cap Bank... they do not recommend it as it's not designed to get wet. I'm sure you can figure something out to water proof it.
    Ohhh not good! I guess its like anything, if it gets wet, just let it dry out. How about your setup, did you waterproof the extra capacitor?

    I am about to put everything back together today including the Cappack mod, but I might call castle myself and see what they say....

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJS View Post
    Mine did have the seven Cap bank. I think I may have burnt it up because it had gotten wet early in the summer. I dried it out and worked for many weeks after then burnt up. I am now trying to waterproof the ESCs better so they can not get wet.

    May I recommend either dipping the ESC in Plasti Dip or using CorrosionX. I sprayed my Seaking with CorrosionX and it's pretty darn water resistant right now. Also dirt doesn't build up on the ESC. I also used this on all my electrical connections because i run in the salt water, and from experience found out how corrosive salt water is, that's when i started using CorrosionX. Works great.

  23. #23
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    I have considered both. I think the plasti dip might inhibit some cooling for the capacitors since it coats it completely. I have used the corrosion X stuff before a long time ago and wish I had more to try. If I remember correctly, is that just a spray on and let dry application?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyV View Post
    I spoke to Castle about this Cap Bank... they do not recommend it as it's not designed to get wet. I'm sure you can figure something out to water proof it.
    Man, this is very typical of castle, you talk to one guy and get a different response from another. I just talked with Joe (boat specialist at Castle) and he said he runs the cappack on all his boats. He did say that he runs them with waterproof boxes for the electronics (including the cappack), so they are not exposed. Bottomline it sounds like as long as it can be waterproofed or water resistant it should be fine.

    At this point I am going to try out the cappack if I can get it to fit, and if it doesnt fit, I will go with the single 1000uF capacitor like you have (I picked up two of them today at RS for the heck of it!).

  25. #25
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    Correct. However, I do remove any excess. I actually apply a small amount of the stuff to a Q-tip and then apply it to the circuit board and any exposed electrical connections - both on the ESC and batteries. Works great.

    Quote Originally Posted by jetnfast View Post
    I have considered both. I think the plasti dip might inhibit some cooling for the capacitors since it coats it completely. I have used the corrosion X stuff before a long time ago and wish I had more to try. If I remember correctly, is that just a spray on and let dry application?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetnfast View Post
    Man, this is very typical of castle, you talk to one guy and get a different response from another. I just talked with Joe (boat specialist at Castle) and he said he runs the cappack on all his boats. He did say that he runs them with waterproof boxes for the electronics (including the cappack), so they are not exposed. Bottomline it sounds like as long as it can be waterproofed or water resistant it should be fine.

    At this point I am going to try out the cappack if I can get it to fit, and if it doesnt fit, I will go with the single 1000uF capacitor like you have (I picked up two of them today at RS for the heck of it!).
    I would listen to Joe as he sounds much more familiar with the boat than the individual that I spoke to. I have not ran my boat since it was submerged... but I'm going to solder on a new Cap just to be careful. The tech I spoke to recommended to replace it as a precaution. For only $1.79 I don't mind throwing another one on.
    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  27. #27
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    Why not add more than 1? Why not add 10? At what point does adding more caps become useless?

    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyV View Post
    I would listen to Joe as he sounds much more familiar with the boat than the individual that I spoke to. I have not ran my boat since it was submerged... but I'm going to solder on a new Cap just to be careful. The tech I spoke to recommended to replace it as a precaution. For only $1.79 I don't mind throwing another one on.

  28. #28
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    Well, after a couple of hours looking at things and finally taking some action, I decided to go with the single Radio Shack 1000uF capacitor like anthonyV. I did extensive test fitting and it was just too cramped with the castle cappack to make it work. My concern was the connector leads and wires interfering with the rudder servo. I also decided to go with a single EC5 connector hardwired to the ESC versus the series connector that was prewired. This way I can run 5s in parallel or 6s in series.

    I looked closer at the specs on the cappack and there were 4 x 220 uF capacitors rated at 35V and 105 deg C. The single RS one was 1000uF and 85 deg C rated. So I look at the capacity as actually more with the single one versus the smaller 220 uF ones on the cappack. Am I interpreting that correctly? My only concern is the temp rating. The RS one is rated at 85C deg or roughly 185F deg. The Castle Cappack has the same specs as the stock capacitors ( 2 x 35V 105C rated), so it should be able to stand the heat just fine. My hope is that I wont see temps in the 200-250F range like I did wiith my previous ESC.

    My lake water level is really low right now, so I am not sure when I will be able to get a test run but I hope to have similar temps to AnthonyV's setup.

    I guess the CapPack is all for not, since I will save it and maybe use it on the spartan down the road, or in one of my EDF's.
    Last edited by jetnfast; 08-01-2012 at 06:11 PM.

  29. #29
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    Let me get this straight?

    Once I add another capacitor like anthonyV I would have to waterproof that individual capacitor or redo the whole ESC?

  30. #30
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    The power posts are not insulated from exposure to the water so I would not think you would need any additional waterproofing for the single added capacitor.
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  31. #31
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    I did not waterproof mine. I sank it last week so just to be safe I removed the old one and put on a new one. They're cheap.
    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  32. #32
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    I am going right now to go an buy an added capacitor right now! I just have a few more questions to ask before I get started:

    Would I have to discharge any of the capacitors?
    And would any of you guys recommend soldering on two in parallel?

    Thank You in Advance!

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
    I am going right now to go an buy an added capacitor right now! I just have a few more questions to ask before I get started:

    Would I have to discharge any of the capacitors?

    And would any of you guys recommend soldering on two in parallel?

    Thank You in Advance!
    No, I dont think you have to discharge the capacitors before soldering on the new ones.

    If you added two, that would only help reduce the load and wear on the two existing ones on the ESC itself. I have just one, but I am thinking about adding another as well. I think it would be ideal, but I am trying to figure out the best, and cleanest place to put the additional one.

  34. #34
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    Jet is correct, you don't have to discharge or charge the caps in this case .remember everytime you unplug power from your Spartan, within a couple mins or so the caps will be dead...no juice ...good luck!
    spartan1 castle ice 240 castle 2200 Prather 220

  35. #35
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    If I do install two capacitors instead of just one is there a positive and negative on the capacitors or it doesn't matter how there are connected? Because I notice one lead is slightly longer then the other.

  36. #36
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    yes, there is a positive and a negative! Be careful! The negative is typically the side with black painted on the side of the capacitor if that makes sense. Reference AnthonyV's pictures above in this thread. This holds true for the radio shack capacitor most of us have been using....

  37. #37
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    The thing is that the capacitors aren't painted either color? But I am assuming the short=black wire and the long=red wire. Correct??

  38. #38
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    That is correct, the longer wire is positive (red), and the short wire is negative (black).

  39. #39
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    Hey you guys I was able to figure a go way on how to solder on two capacitors at once!!!!!!

    Take a look and tell me what you like.

    http://s1217.photobucket.com/albums/...-40-38_713.jpg



    Here is another photo I am having trouble figuring out how to upload a picture.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 08-18-2012 at 09:22 AM. Reason: post merge

  40. #40
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    Rocky, that looks great! VERY CLEAN! How did you do it? Its tough to see from the pics, but did you twist the wires together? Have you tried it yet? I have another radio shack one sitting around and would like to add it the way you did. If you can expand on how you wired it that would be great. My concern is that if I put them side to side like that they would potentially short out if the wires touched.

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