Motor starts smoking suddenly (Vid)

[Kawi]

So I'm running the Summit around and it starts to smell like it's burning, it wasn't sounding right the whole time either, I was running it for about 10 minutes and it was sounding like it was squeeling, the kind it does under pressure, and then at times it would sort of snap into regular sound mode and then go back to squeeling sound. I haven't driven it for a while so I couldn't really remember if that was the normal noise. The summit already sounds a bit squeelish when it runs. So I adjusted the slipper clutch thinking that was what I was hearing, let it cool down a couple of hours and ran again. The noise seemed to be less squeeling, but then it starts smelling burning again, and then smoke, so I removed the cover and it was coming out in a little stream. Pulled out the phone and got the end of it.

Any ideas?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vjOAh7aSZY

[felixx4]

Im not sure what the squealing issue was and if it was a factor in your breakdown, but watching your video it appears that your motor burned up.

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[fish240]

I would have to agree with flexi had the same problem with the titan on my slash ran fine had a burnt smell then dead titan. You should look into a dewalt 14.4 that is what i will go with when my stocker dies

[ksb51rl]

A smoking motor is a dying motor. Make arrangements.
If you care to, pull the motor and check if the shaft (pinion side) has worn out the bushing.

[Kawi]

Thanks for the replies, yeah it still works, but not for long. A brushless motor would be sweet with this but it probably needs a brushless esc and a ton of fabrication. This dewalt motor is it a better motor than this? Is it a drop in or is there lots of fabrication, also, can it take on water/snow? I'm not too familiar with working on cars, I can do pretty much anything with a plane or heli but I've only changed out some suspension parts and servos on this.

[fish240]

The dewalt does need some fab work there is other threads on here showing how to do it. For brushless you will need the esc and motor but most are drop in ready like teckin rx 8 or castle creations momba monster both good options or you can look into ezrun still drict fit and a little cheaper only draw back to brushless is i dont think they are waterproof but i coyld be wrong about that part. The dewalt you have to add resiters and grind on the shaft to hold the pinon gear and i think make the holes bigger where it mounts to the truck but the dewalt motor is rebildable

[Kawi]

Yikes, I guess it's either a brushless or the oem for me then. I'm not a big fan of the oem though. I don't like the sound of the big brushed motor. Always sounds over stressed, with shots of squeals here and there. At full power it always felt too much under strain. I have a brushless erevo and it just sounds so much better. I'd really like to have a bl motor in this, I can tell it would be so much better.

[fish240]

The set up in you erevo will work in the summit same basic setup

[Kawi]

It's the 1/16 I have but that's great, I can just get the setup for the big e-revo and drop it in? If that works that's good enough for me, I'm no hardcore user, just run it occasionally. I'd love something as maintenance free as possible. I don't mind fiddling here and there if I have to though.

[stickychinsac]

dont put a mmm in the summit. it wont work well it will suck. kinda beaten this one dry but its either xerun or tekin rx8. 2000kv or less. again, xerun cheaper but its a hong konger. rx8 $$$ but worth every penny

[fish240]

dont put a mmm in the summit. it wont work well it will suck. kinda beaten this one dry but its either xerun or tekin rx8. 2000kv or less. again, xerun cheaper but its a hong konger. rx8 $$$ but worth every penny

ok i have to ask why do you say that about mmm

[stickychinsac]

summit isnt a erevo. motor is not sensored and therefore cannot perform in a vehicle that needs low end controled torque. mmm is great if you wanna go fast or if you wanna go fast. tekin is great if you want a summit

[LaTuFu]

dont put a mmm in the summit. it wont work well it will suck. kinda beaten this one dry but its either xerun or tekin rx8. 2000kv or less. again, xerun cheaper but its a hong konger. rx8 $$$ but worth every penny

Nothing wrong with the Hobbywing or Xerun ESCs. They compare very favorably in durability and performance against the Castle ESCs.

[ksb51rl]

FWIW, the Dewalt has a more pleasing (but still not pleasant) sound than the Titan 775. I have nothing against the 775 but if you do and money is an object, the Dewalt for about $35 and a short read of pavmentsurfer's tutorial make a great deal. And you get to keep your waterproof setup.

[stickychinsac]

As long as you dont get an integy pinion gear

[Kawi]

Edit/delete

[fish240]

Ok yes your right i forgot about the sensord part i was not trying to say the summit is the same truck i was just trying to say the motor and esc would work from an erevo sorry for the confusion

[stickychinsac]

lol there is the mmp but idk that its big enough

[Kawi]

Water proof is not so important. I took it swimming once and it could barely move after the wheels soaked up 20lbs of water. It's more a novelty I think. Having said that I do have fun with it in the snow and it does get soaked. That would suck if a bl set up meant no more snow.

[fish240]

I used a mmp esc and a teckin rx8 2050 kv motor in an emaxx and could not keep drivelines in it never had a heat problem but the maxx is smaller and lighter so mabey but idk it might

[fish240]

Look into outerwear i hear they help keep most of the snow out

[stickychinsac]

@fish the 2050 is a buggy motor and would work fine but the 2000kv is a truggy motor which is longer. more torque more fun. great suggestion on the outerwears cover, still one of the best upgrades out there.

[fish240]

@fish the 2050 is a buggy motor and would work fine but the 2000kv is a truggy motor which is longer. more torque more fun. great suggestion on the outerwears cover, still one of the best upgrades out there.

well i guess you learn something new every day i did not know there was a diffenence between the motors other than kvs that was the set up in my e maxx when i traded for it

[Kawi]

Something that just dawned on me, the last time I drove the summit, about 3 weeks ago, I drove it on a lake beach and it went right into the water, not under water but it was floating for a few moments here and there, so basically everything inside got submerged. Once I got out it was too heavy to run normally so I shut it down and squished the water out of the tires best I could and left it to dry. That was 3 weeks ago. Yesterday was the first time I drove it since then and it started off sounding real bad squeeling, and then the smoke. I was sure I went bashing in the woods afterwards but today I just realized that was before it went swimming, not after. Therefore that means the motor sat all this time immediately after going in water. This is obviously the reason it fried I'm thinking.

[jamann]

Clean and lube it worth a shot


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[Kawi]

Anybody know what a new stock motor costs roughly?

[fish240]

look on ebay cheap there new and used new around 30 bucks

[jamann]

I got on word for ya
Dewalt. Lol


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[jamann]

*one* auto correct is killing me


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[Mayberry Kid]

Kawi,

While you have the motor out, make sure there is nothing binding in your drivetrain. Your chassis should roll free with no motor hooked to the gearbox. Something could be binding/dragging that is placing excess load on the motor. I only say this because the squeeling you hear became less when you tightened the slipper. This would place a greater load on the motor.

The main purpose of the slipper is to protect the drivetrain, but it will also protect the motor/esc from excess current when you approach "locked rotor current" (sorry old electrical term). Suffice to say if you lock a DC motor up you will draw maximum current. I am sure that the ESC and batteries can provide more than enought current to toast a 775 (or Dewalt for that matter).

A tighter slipper would cause the motor to draw more current, and therefore possibly overload it. Anyway you should check the drivetrain out before you replace the motor. You don't want to kill the replacement again just BC you did not check it out thoroughly.

I've been in the electronics industry for over 30 years, one long standing rule of thumb. Take care not to lose the magic smoke!! I have witnessed the creation of some very expensive paperweights by not thoroughly checking out the equipment that the motor drives.

While a little neglect might be the cause of the premature passing of your 775, it's worth your time to eliminate another potential cause.

My dos centavos,

The Kid

[Kawi]

Thanks, I will definitely do that. I will also loosen up the slipper some, I only tightened it because it sounded like it was the problem. From what I read you should tighten it until it stops and then go back a bit. I must've tightened like 20 turns before it got tight, so now I don't even know where is normal. I'll have to cross that bridge when I get to it. Right now I need a motor and depending on availability, I'm going to just go for the stocker. I really don't care to get into a motor/esc swap that's going to involve fabrications and fittings and resistors(?), I really only play with this every other month or so. The stock setup is good enough for me, a bl would be sweet but again, the time and money would be better spent on my planes or helis which I use almost daily. But even though I don't use it much, I do want it fixed. I hate having any of my rc stuff not working lol.

[Kawi]

So my stock motor is here. I'm going to pull the other one out and drop this one in. I was just checking, is there anything I should know or do before I swap it out?

[Mayberry Kid]

Once the old motor is out, take the opportunity to make sure nothing is binding in your drivetrain. Go ahead and break in the motor as you see fit.

I just purchased the HD slipper clutch rebuild kit, the instructions are just like you stated earlier. Thighten till spring is compressed and back off. They also say to make adjustments to the clutch in 1/8 turn increments.

Good luck,

The Kid

[sparksthewolf]

the smoke is the coating on the wires wrapped on the armature if they get scratches on them from dirt or overheat it causes an internal short and fries the motor

[Kawi]

Well like i said earlier, I bought another 775 stock motor. Bl would be nice but I just don't use it enough to go through that.
I got a quick question here. I'm just about done installing it, the top bolt that secures the motor goes through an elongated hole, which allows you to put a bigger spindel I guess. How tight should I press the motor onto the main gear? (I doubt anyone will understand what I mean.)

[jamann]

Pinion to spur gear mesh. Is my thought
A piece of regular paper. Between the pinion gear(small one) and the spur gear(big one) paper acting as a spacer.
tighten.
the paper should rotate out without binding or tearing



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[Kawi]

Cool, Thanks!

[Kawi]

WHAT THE &$@?

I just installed the new motor, perfectly matched, power it up, took it out and ran it for about 10 minutes, no squeeling or slipping or stripping, running like new, all of a sudden, SMOKE!! AGAIN??

I couldn't believe it, smoke started pouring out of it like it did with the old one. Why? How? Right out of the opening where you can see the white gear.

Took a pic, you can see the brown melting like happening, at least that's what I think it is.


What's going on?

[Mayberry Kid]

Firstly, sorry you're having problems

Hopefully it's not too late....

Pull the motor, but leave it connected to the ESC. Power up a run at a slow speed.

Observe:
Does the motor get hot?
Does it smoke?
Is it relatively quiet?
With a steady speed at the Xmitter, does the motor speed vary?

A "NO" to all of these would lead me to think something is tight or binding in your drivetrain.

A "YES" might indicate that it is a bad motor, but we do not know for sure what caused it(if anything). Again, we need to check out the drivetrain for binding or tightness.

Post back what you find out...

The Kid

[Kawi]

I ran it on its wheels with the motor off and there was no binding, I ran some paper between the gears and it didn't rip, yeah when it started smoking the motor was very hot. I will test it for variances in motor speed but ive used the summit enough in the past where i think i would have caught any abnormalities right away. The batteries I use are 2s 5800mah that I have been using exclusively since it was new, except for maybe the first few runs in the stock ones. Am I frying it because of the batteries? I have kicked its butt with these batteries on the old motor, run times are 30 minutes plus, and with non stop bashing over and over. Could they have suddenly burned 2 motors back to back?