I just got my heat gun in and my truck is running at 320-360 it has a pretty heavy exhaust trail and does not start to lose power or cut out after 4 or 5 laps but it gets up there in the 300s
I just got my heat gun in and my truck is running at 320-360 it has a pretty heavy exhaust trail and does not start to lose power or cut out after 4 or 5 laps but it gets up there in the 300s
Yes a duratrax flash point and at the glow plug I richened it up even more to day and its at about 314 now but slower to
Air leak in the engine case?
Sting like a butterfly and punch like a flea, jack
Definitely this is the problem. I had one of my cars run with a nice smoke plume but the temps were upto about 400f. I could go at half speed and it was ok, give it the full beans and after 100yds it would die, then wouldn't start as the plug was dead. Did this with three plugs in a row in the space of 15 mins.
Stripped the engine out and replaced the o-rings at the back plate and where the carb seats, also ran a little bit of red hermetite over them as a double security. Let it cure and set the needles back to factory while I waited.
Came to start it and it cracked up straight away and ran like a beaut. No more problems and the temps were perfect.
So I should rebuild it?
I don't think this is the case. It's not eating plugs, hard to start, or losing power at the temps he's stating. Personally I would check and make sure there is no binding in the drive train first before rebuilding the engine. Also what type of conditions does the OP run in street/dirt, short/long grass, tire size and etc. I've never used a temp gauge in the 8 yrs I've been in this hobby. Sound, Performance, and Smoke. anything else complicates it
Revo3.3 -.32 Axial/BUKU Pipe
I'm running on my track it's sandy/gravel/grass tires are stock and there is no binding....even if I lean it out to where it cuts out at full throttle it still has a very nice smoke trail at one point it was losing power (around 400 degrees I'm guessing) but I richened it up and it's doing a ton better I can actually race 5 laps without it shutting off but it's still running around 320?? If I check it right after it comes off the track but if I wait about a minute it's back down to 280ish
I also switched from a cold to medium plug but the Rossi plugs and there not the correct length I think
Any ideas...
Last edited by Double G; 07-17-2012 at 08:27 AM. Reason: merge, clean up
A traxxas shim kit worked for me, part# 5229 for the 2.5, and #5292 for the 3.3.
Check for binding in the drivetrain and then replace all the o rings and gaskets in the engine...make sure you have adequate back pressure and there are no cracks in the fuel lines.
Sting like a butterfly and punch like a flea, jack
I have good back pressure and I just changed the fuel line only thing left is a rebuild but it's a hard decision since it runs great just hot lol
With a body on my truck was getting up to around 500 before i installed a .40mm shim..now it runs at about 280-290 w/ a body on..And with out it ran around 350, which was still hot, body had all windows cut out but it didn't help until the shim was installed.
Last edited by Double G; 07-17-2012 at 08:27 AM. Reason: merge
Start with the basics bud, you said you checked for binding in the driveline, as stated above, I would check the fuel tank for leaks, It eliminates a few air leak hot spots when you seal the backplate and carb throat with a dab of rtv. I honestly think you would have better performance out of the engine when sealed properly. Be sure there are no leaky exhaust gaskets, at the header engine mount, and at the header to pipe mount. Honestly sounds like an air leak to me some where, because I have seen high temps out of some of my engines, with a good performance, once I found them and fixed them, back to normal temps.
Yeah, you have to have good airflow, especially during these warm summer months..So, your gunna have to hack that body up..Some people cut huge holes, but i prefer to cut out the whole window..that's what i did w/ my body, first i tried just the front and rear windows, still too hot..then, the rest of the side windows..still too hot..ran it as rich as i could..still too hot!
And thats when i decided to shim, you won't notice a difference is power, because your tune will be better..I'm in the White Mt. area of AZ and because I'm over 6000 ft. the oxygen starts getting a little thin up here..I just wish i would've shimmed it before cutting out ALL my window's!
p.s. I would also go back to a good medium plug such as the dynamite platinum #4, they cost a lil more but last longer and are superior to other plugs.
where abouts are you located? how far above sea level
OkGo Performance, RC Division.
Im stationed in germany idk how far above
Sent from my GT-S5570 using Tapatalk
I did find an air leak it's behind the clutch bell
How do I fix this ?? New bearing
Ok so should I buy the bearing removal tool or what how do yall do it??
Also should I go with boca ceramics for $30 or just go with boca economy bearings for $18 I fell since its just a 2.5r I shouldn't dump the money into for full ceramics idk if I should even rebuild it will a 2.5r be a good basher motor or should I put the 3.3in my t maxx for bashing and a picco .28 for racing in my revo
Last edited by Emaxx1991; 07-16-2012 at 02:56 PM.
I just put the crankcase in the oven and popped the bearings out I think I will try to put some bearings in it out of an old broken crank case