Just picked up a VXL Rally Kawasaki

[RobF353]

I found it for sale locally and jumped on the deal. The guy ran one pack on it on his basement floor. I got it for $200.

I had a KB Rally awhile ago, but sold it. I liked it and missed it, so i picked this one up.

For my KB, i had a motor heatsink fan and a few 2s lipos. I plan on getting those same things for this rally. I am also going to get new body.

What else should i get for it?

[maddemaxx]

it depends on what you want to do with it...we have a class of 12 that we race every Wed on carpet so we set up to race that .

[RobF353]

I will just be bashing with it, streets and parking lots.

Going to my shop tomorrow and pick up some stuff.

[metoo2]

I will just be bashing with it, streets and parking lots.

Going to my shop tomorrow and pick up some stuff.

1) HPI X-pattern tires. A lot of guys like the D-compound. I like the belted pro compound. I also use 26mm wide tires. If you go with HPI wheels, I like the 3mm offset ones. they come in 0,3, and 6mm offset.

2) Fill the diffs with oil. I like 50K up front and 30K in the rear. If the guy you bought the car from didn't put oil in the diffs, they are empty.

3) For bashing in the street, go with tan springs. I have 10K diff oil in my all my shocks with black springs for racing. You may want 7k for the tan springs.

4) The optional center diff does wonders for giving you power in the turns. I have mine with 70k oil.

5) A lexan buggy wing tends to help stabilize that car at high speed. I also protects your rear body posts when you crash and side on the lid.

6) 25mm 5V fan mounted to the ESC, a larger hole in the windshield, and a large hole in the rear window.

[RobF353]

metoo, i got your PM about batteries. I actually picked up 2 lipos today at my shop. They are 2s 2000mah 25c packs.

1) I have a bunch of tires, so finding one I like on this wont be a problem. I actually ran the car today with a 2s pack and I mounted some foam tires onto it. Doesnt slide anymore at all.

2) I bought this from someone and he ran only 1 battery pack through it, so I dont he touched the diffs. If I fill the diffs, how will that make the car perform compared to how it is now? Why didnt Traxxas fill the diffs?

3) The suspension doesnt bother me. Why did you use diff oil in the shocks, why not shock oil? Are tan springs stiffer than stock?

4) I will try to find a wing for it.

5) I wanted to buy a heatsink fan today, but my shop didnt have anymore in stock. I will order it online probably along with a new body.

I will post some pics of the car later, even though its nothing special.

[maddemaxx]

i use 5000wt diff oil in my shocks to stiffen it up for carpet racing

[metoo2]

2) That manual says it has 50k in the front and 30k in the back, but in reality, there is only enough oil in the diffs to lube the gears at best. they are 90% empty. Why, I can only guess. All the power goes to the wheel with the least amount of traction. With no fluid, you will loose serious power in the turns especially with a stock height, soft suspension setup. some guys go as far as putting diff locker in the front. I find it drives great with what is supposed to be in there from stock.

3) If you are not racing and you are bashing on a street with deep or raised expansion joints and other rough spots, there's nothing wrong with the stock setup. I think think the body roll is a bit much for my liking, so I recommended the tan springs which are quite a bit stiffer than stock. With that, you will need a heavier fluid so the car wont be bouncy. Diff fluid is heavier than shock fluid and best for the tan and black springs.

5) I bought the fan I use on my ESC for an electronics parts shop. If you are also considering a motor fan, there is a certain motor heatsink with fan out there that I don't like the design of. The fan blows (or tries to blow) into a practically sealed hole. There is nowhere for the air to go out except pass the fan blades that are working to blow air in.

Mods, please remove image if it is not allowed.
There are many options. Do not buy this one.

[KeltiKrewser]

The heatsink w/ fan from TheToyz is a much better piece. Had one on my Merv and it worked great.

[i killed kenny]

i think you got jipped, i can get a brand new one in the box for 209 shipped

[RobF353]

i think you got jipped, i can get a brand new one in the box for 209 shipped

Where do you see a Kawasaki version for $209 shipped?

2) That manual says it has 50k in the front and 30k in the back, but in reality, there is only enough oil in the diffs to lube the gears at best. they are 90% empty. Why, I can only guess. All the power goes to the wheel with the least amount of traction. With no fluid, you will loose serious power in the turns especially with a stock height, soft suspension setup. some guys go as far as putting diff locker in the front. I find it drives great with what is supposed to be in there from stock.

3) If you are not racing and you are bashing on a street with deep or raised expansion joints and other rough spots, there's nothing wrong with the stock setup. I think think the body roll is a bit much for my liking, so I recommended the tan springs which are quite a bit stiffer than stock. With that, you will need a heavier fluid so the car wont be bouncy. Diff fluid is heavier than shock fluid and best for the tan and black springs.

5) I bought the fan I use on my ESC for an electronics parts shop. If you are also considering a motor fan, there is a certain motor heatsink with fan out there that I don't like the design of. The fan blows (or tries to blow) into a practically sealed hole. There is nowhere for the air to go out except pass the fan blades that are working to blow air in.

Thanks for all the info.

I will fill the diffs when I get some time. What is the easiest way to access them?

I will run the car for a bit more, then see if I want to go to a stiffer spring.

I might go to my shop again tomorrow to see if they got any more heatsink fans in. Since you dont recommend the Integy one, which should I look for?

[KeltiKrewser]

Check Thetoyz.com they have a huge selection of parts for the 1/16 Traxxas vehicles. You might need to look in the 1/16 Merv section as that got alot of the "universal" to TRX 1/16 parts put in it. It is branded as "The Toyz" heatsink w/ fan.

I pm'd the link to you, as you're not allowed to post them.

Later,
Ryan

[i killed kenny]

a kawasaki store look at this picture of their inventory:

[gmanrules]

could u send me the link for the rally for 209 i want one

[RobF353]

could u send me the link for the rally for 209 i want one

Please send him a PM, dont go off topic in my thread please.

[RobF353]

What is the easiest way to access the diffs so I can fill them up?

[KeltiKrewser]

You need to pull the bulkheads out to access the diffs.

Here's a good link from the Merv Forums but same idea obviously

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...bulkhead/page2

[RobF353]

Thanks, i might try to fill the diffs tomorrow.

Do i need to shim the diffs? I have never done that before.

[KeltiKrewser]

While you're in there you might as well. It would suck to tear it apart to fill them and then strip out a ring gear and have to do it all over again. I stripped 3 in my Merv before I started shimming them, and never stripped another. My rally got shimmed before it was ever run.

Maybe someone else can jump in on this, I think the biggest issue with the diffs were flex in the bulkheads and big heavy tires, so it might not be as big of an issue with the rally. Its still a good idea to help with the longevity of the diff regardless.

[RobF353]

Sounds good. What is the part number for the shim kit?

Also, how do i shim them?

[KeltiKrewser]

They are Team Associated part # 21141. They come in packs of 4, might not be a bad idea to get 2 packs just in case, they're pretty cheap.

Post #62 on the tread I linked above has a pretty good how to video.

[RobF353]

Thanks, ill see if my shop has the shims tomorrow.

Hopefully i have time tomorrow to fill the diffs.

[metoo2]

Dog gone you Kenny!!! I just bought another Rally because of you. I don't even know what I'm going to do with it, but the deal was just too good. I thing I'm going to give it to my lil cousin as a surprise.

[metoo2]

Wow, there were 6 of 7 left in the listing when I looked at the listing just a hour ago. I posted the deal on another forum, now they are all gone. As a matter of fact there was another listing with 4 of 5 left. One greedy person bought 4 from each listing.

[Cipher_Jones]

While you're in there you might as well. It would suck to tear it apart to fill them and then strip out a ring gear and have to do it all over again. I stripped 3 in my Merv before I started shimming them, and never stripped another. My rally got shimmed before it was ever run.

Maybe someone else can jump in on this, I think the biggest issue with the diffs were flex in the bulkheads and big heavy tires, so it might not be as big of an issue with the rally. Its still a good idea to help with the longevity of the diff regardless.

I sealed the bulk in my slash and so far no need for shims whatsoever.

I'm not gonna say don't shim. I'm just gonna say I did't and had excellent results.

I have been thinking that its the rotating mass on those big ol honkin merv wheels, but dont have a merv and 2 extra diffs to test my theory.

[RobF353]

I just finished painting my Proline Ford Focus body.

I will post pics later!

[RobF353]

Finally had time to take some pics of my Focus body. I also dyed my chassis, rockers, pushrods, and steering links.