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  1. #1
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    Exclamation How do I mount my new wheels!!!

    So about 7 months ago I got some awesome pro-line trenchers (the rubber is a little too soft for street driving). The front ones didn't have a hex shape, they were just a circle so I had to sand down my hexes and make some custom round ones for the front. I had been driving them until two weeks ago when I caught the side of a jump and broke the plastic part of the wheel between the hex and the nut. I contacted pro-line, and too my surprise I was able to get a replacement. They arrived today and to my dismay these don't have anything to screw a nut on to. How am I supposed to use them?

    I went ahead and got some pictures and as you can see the hole is very large relative to the shaft that goes through (all inappropriate connotations ignored) The nut almost fits through but maybe 1mm all the way around touches plastic if I bolt it on. I just want to be sure that there isn't a different way to do this before I use them.


    I am sorry the photos may be very large, I have no way to re-size them with my website

  2. #2
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    Those do not look like the right wheels for a Rusty, they should have hexes and be the proper offset.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Proud

  3. #3
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    Offset is right, it is near impossible to find electric fronts of these so I got stuck with nitro rears. It says it is a traxxas style bead whatever that means. It then says it it is for JATO, Nitro Stampede/Rustler, so I know that is my problem, but is there something I can do to make them work like get some parts off of the front of a nitro rustler.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Those Nitro wheels just won't work on an electric rusty/pede. Like you learned with the other set, you had to make substantial mods to make it work. Try selling those on the market place and but some new ones.

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    Those Nitro wheels just won't work on an electric rusty/pede. Like you learned with the other set, you had to make substantial mods to make it work. Try selling those on the market place and but some new ones.

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
    Is that ok, to sell something you got through as a free replacement

  6. #6
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    On some front buggy wheels you have to put the bearings in the wheel itself, maybe this is one of those?

    Anyway, yeah sell them. If you have no use for them why not? It doesn't matter if it was a free replacement. They are yours to do as you wish...

  7. #7
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    you csan change the front steering blocks and castor block's to the nitro rustler and just run those wheel's. The Nitro rustler has a captured front stub axle with the bearing's are in the wheel, where the electric rustler has bearing's in the actual steering block. The nitro setup on the rustler is a good mod to run, just have to buy the few part's to do it.
    *Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*

  8. #8
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    I was able to get this to work, the stock bearings/bushings fit right into these wheels. I had quite a few extra pieces hanging around so I now have 4 bearings up front 2 for the stub axle and 2 in the wheel. It actually works very nice to my surprise and this new mod opens windows to new front wheel possibilities.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Pics!!!

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
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  10. #10
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    This is interesting, the buggies that I knew used bearings in the wheels use imperial sized bearings. Traxxas is metric.

    Also, how did you hold the axel if you had bearings on both the hub and the wheel?

    I am getting ideas for my Bandit here I'd be able to use B4 wheels.

  11. #11
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    double post.
    Last edited by cunawarit; 07-14-2012 at 02:34 PM.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Buggy wheels do not have bearings. The bearings are in the hub.

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    Buggy wheels do not have bearings. The bearings are in the hub.
    Some do. Front wheels only of course.

  14. #14
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    Here are the photos guys
    The bearings in the hub stay in just like normal, except the wheel holds the outside one in instead of the hex, the bearings in the wheel fit fairly snug and I leave it just lose enough to spin freely. There is actually less play back in these from side to side than my stock one had after a year or so of runs. They move maybe half a mm.








    How to do it:
    Remove your hex
    Remove the little metal rod the hex clips onto
    Place a bearing into the wheel from the back and one from the front
    Slide the wheel onto the stub axle
    Screw on the nut
    Twist the wheel to apply pressure so the stub axle doesn't slip
    Tighten the nut all the way down
    the wheel will be difficult to spin
    Release the nuts pressure 1/4 turn at first and test the spin
    Release in 1/8th increments there after.

  15. #15
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    Nice seedorfj

    I can envisage some B4 wheels coming up for my Bandit now

  16. #16
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    Why does it look like you are using brass bushing's instead of bearing's?
    *Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by I EAT DIRT View Post
    Why does it look like you are using brass bushing's instead of bearing's?
    Because I am. It just became easier to say bearing.

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