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  1. #81
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    hey what tranny did you get?

  2. #82
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    maybe move the weights you have on your chassis more towards the front. im thinkin more weight on the front will help with under steer. im having the same issue some of which was fixed when i got that lighter hobbywing brushless system. i went with the 23tooth pinion like you said and i got a noticeable increase in top speed with no loss in low end. with punch set at 7 and timing at 15 degrees it runs good with zero temp issues.

  3. #83
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    I got a Hot Racing tranny case, I quite like how it looks in the pics. It seems to be pretty much a Traxxas Rad 2 tranny

    One thing that I preemptively bought was an RPM motor guard and wheelie bar mount as the tranny case has no motor protection at all. But I wish I could find part #1989 (for the Rad 2) somewhere as I reckon that would fit...



    I'm not a huge fan of the RPM wheelie bar and guard because they are really big, I mean really really big. Not bad for a slash, but it really looks out of place in a buggy.

    As far as the weights I did that during the day, and the handling got better, more balanced, but there was still an issue with overall grip. I am told the surface will be fixed for the next meeting though, so that's good

    EDIT: People have been discussing this tranny case (well the Slash version of it) here http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-racing-tranny
    Last edited by cunawarit; 10-15-2012 at 05:12 AM.

  4. #84
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    OK, here's the gearbox it arrived today and I couldn't wait to install it... despite the fact that I couldn't make it to the races due t unforeseen and unexpected issues.



    Overall it seems like a very high quality bit of kit and actually overall lighter than stock by a few grams! My stock case came to 70g and this to about 65g. Sadly I only had an analogue scale to hand so I cannot be more precise than that.

    The separate arm mounts seem very high quality, one of them was perfect and the other needed a little bit of work with the drill to free it up a bit.



    I don't know if you all do this, but I always fit shims wherever there's room for reduced play:



    I sand them down to the right thickness for friction free movement.

    Incidentally, I ended up not using these:



    They look kinda weird to me.

    Fitting all my gears was a piece of cake, including my "vintage slipper", I realize some of you might not have seen what these old slipper clutches look like so here it is:





    In the end it all fitted quite nicely, but I still need to install a bumper:





    From what I have read here this tranny case is GREAT for cooling, so here it goes. I am turning up the timing all the way up!



    Did I ever show the Team-C wing mount install with the RPM tower? I don't think so, here it is:


  5. #85
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    Oh, and have I shown you the personal transponder?


  6. #86
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    A couple more shots, this is the tranny without the weird blue bits:



    Isn't that pretty much the same as that in the Hawk 2?

    And a pic of the insides of the Bandit:



    I've not really shared much of this before as my install isn't at all tidy

  7. #87
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    holy looks nice there
    i like how you have taken the pic with a white back ground makes it look profesoinal

    is weight still a problem cunawarit?
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  8. #88
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    I've gotten rid of some ballast, not carrying much... But occasionally I put a bit back on or take off depending on the surface. But overall I am not worried about weight.

    As far as the pics I simply had white plastic where I was working to protect the surface and bounced the flash off the ceiling.

  9. #89
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    those blue bits are heat sinks for the motor plate they work well and help cooling I removed mine to apply some artic silver heat tranfer grease to them and reinstalled.I also applied transfer grease to the motor.

  10. #90
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    I realize that's what they are meant to be, however, they were so far away from the motor that I thought that perhaps they were more for show than anything else. But if people find they work I am happy to give it a test and actually measure the difference.

  11. #91
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    nice lookin tranny. take more pics once you get the motor guard on. let us know how it holds up to and if it handles differently.

  12. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by redlightrandy View Post
    nice lookin tranny. take more pics once you get the motor guard on. let us know how it holds up to and if it handles differently.
    The default anti-squat on this is the same, and weight is nearly the same. So I reckon it'll handle exactly the same

    But I'll get some more anti-squat on and see how that goes shortly. Need to decide what I will use for shims, may just buy Nitro Rustler ones... Or washers

  13. #93
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    well at least you should be a little better on heat.

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by cunawarit View Post
    I got a Hot Racing tranny case, I quite like how it looks in the pics. It seems to be pretty much a Traxxas Rad 2 tranny

    One thing that I preemptively bought was an RPM motor guard and wheelie bar mount as the tranny case has no motor protection at all. But I wish I could find part #1989 (for the Rad 2) somewhere as I reckon that would fit...



    I'm not a huge fan of the RPM wheelie bar and guard because they are really big, I mean really really big. Not bad for a slash, but it really looks out of place in a buggy.

    As far as the weights I did that during the day, and the handling got better, more balanced, but there was still an issue with overall grip. I am told the surface will be fixed for the next meeting though, so that's good

    EDIT: People have been discussing this tranny case (well the Slash version of it) here http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-racing-tranny
    LOL good luck with that. That is possibly the hardest part to find next to the battery box used on the TCP/SRT. The SRT also uses that piece(1989 or 2398)and believe me...I'm hunting those down too.
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  15. #95
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    Have you considered getting a actual true 540 size motor? You're motor uses a smaller rotor and that can be killing your overall proformance. I'm not saying get a Tekin with a 7.5t setup but maybe a a 10.5t or a 4600 castle.
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  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx2.0 View Post
    Have you considered getting a actual true 540 size motor? You're motor uses a smaller rotor and that can be killing your overall proformance. I'm not saying get a Tekin with a 7.5t setup but maybe a a 10.5t or a 4600 castle.
    It absolutely is in the list, the most common setup for buggies where I race seems to be 6.5T.

    I have to admit I bought this setup when I was switching from brushed motors and I knew absolutely nothing about brushless, I didn't realize some were actually 380 sized motors in 540 sized cans, nor did I know there were sensored and sensorless setups. I simply bought the Etronix ESC and motor because it was affordable and had glowing reviews.

    I don't know anyone on off road winning with this setup, but there's a guy with the same ESC and a 9T Etronix motor regularly winning in an on-road class, my theory is that it cannot be that sucky a setup but there's no doubt there are much better choices for off road.

    Weirdly as well, for the good things I read about Castle systems online, I've never seen anyone use one at the track.

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx2.0 View Post
    LOL good luck with that. That is possibly the hardest part to find next to the battery box used on the TCP/SRT. The SRT also uses that piece(1989 or 2398)and believe me...I'm hunting those down too.
    I've just put on a stock Traxxas bumper and its OK. Not as nice looking as a race like guard like #1989 but much better than the OTT RPM bumper I first tried.

  18. #98
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    Yes sadly the older Traxxas models like the TCP/SRT are much better platforms then the current 2wd on the market. But RTRs is where the money is at. Honestly if you're doing a amazing job with this setup you should try hunting down a TRX-3 or a TCP basically the same thing for racing.
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  19. #99
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    I've seen a few RAD2s for sale lately, but not TRX-1s or 3s.

    At some point I'll pick one up, back in the day I REALLY wanted a TCP.

    I'm not doing an amazing job, but I am doing as well as people with similar skill level. In fact I'm the newest buggy racer at the club, so people who have been racing for a year or two more than me really. I'm new at this!

  20. #100
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    Look into getting a carbon fiber chassis for your buggy? But right now I feel your motor is holding you back. It's like turbo lag on a old Porsche lol.
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  21. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx2.0 View Post
    Look into getting a carbon fiber chassis for your buggy? But right now I feel your motor is holding you back. It's like turbo lag on a old Porsche lol.
    haha, probably. Top speed it isn't holding me back much, as you say what may be holding me back is the lack of throttle progression Emphasis on "may be" as in all honesty it doesn't feel that bad, and what I need more than throttle progression is a cool racing head. I've been 2.5 seconds per lap off the fastest guys (bloke supported by Schumacher no less) if I could keep that pace I'd do very very well for sure. The problem is that I can't, when the heat is on I lose my cool and I lose my speed.

    I've been looking into some decent cheap motors for a while, right now the top contenders are:

    1) Leopard 3650 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X76tsnO3yk)
    2) Reedy 540-SL
    3) Tacon 3650 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZ8mo-IY38g)

    With my current ESC I am restricted to sensorless.
    Last edited by cunawarit; 10-22-2012 at 03:40 AM.

  22. #102
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    I was just reading through this thread, and I must say that you have done quite an impressive job with your bandit. However, every time I see something that adds weight I cringe a little. Have you looked at the ultimate race rustler? There are a lot of things that you have done that the Jang did, but his approach was all about reducing weight and making the rustler as light as the competition. On the motor a sensored setup would be the most beneficial and could allow you to gain some speed in turns and transitions with a smoother power output.

    Even if you don't have a sensored esc, you can run a sensored motor on it without hooking the sensor wires up just tape over the plug to keep debris out. That way you don't have to buy a new motor when you decide to get the esc.
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  23. #103
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    rjm2519, the Bandit is lighter than much the competition. Most of the really fast guys have added weight like brass plates under lipos, servos, metal chassis, etc...

    One of the fastest guys ads lots of weight (I can't remember exactly by how much, but his 2WD buggy is definitely heavier than my Bandit), this is straight from his setup sheet for a national event:



    This guy is a great buggy and short course racer, in fact, he came third in the UK Short Course Nationals 2012. He is really a great driver and is running extra weights on the tracks I race both in his buggies and short course trucks.

    I started out with your mindset, cringing at the idea of adding weight. Back in the 90s when I used to take the Bandit to the track, but not race I used to see cars with chassis that looked like Swiss cheese, that was the norm them.

    Now the norm seems to be that people strategically add brass bits low down. I went through quite a tough and frustrating time trying to keep the car on the track without the extra 40g low down that I have. Grip levels are so high that you really can't corner without rolling over, you can dial in some understeer with tyres and camber changes but it ended up being much slower than it was with the low down extra weights.

    And given that guys like the one above are running weights with their level of experience I have no reason to believe that I could come with a better tuning solution that they have. In fact, experience indicates the opposite.

    Anyway, here are a couple of shots of the gearbox with the Traxxas bumper in place:





    PS: I'm speculating here a little, but I think the light weight thing might be valid for guys who race on dirt and clay. But on very high grip carpet, astro, and grass low down weights help... It isn't just extra weight overall, it is weight in the very lowest part of the car to lower the CG.
    Last edited by cunawarit; 10-22-2012 at 06:03 AM.

  24. #104
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    Have you taken in the account for chassis flex? If the track isn't bumpy and alot of track you may want to actually stiffen the chassis more. We tend to run chassis with more flex on bumpy off-road clay tracks. But mean I personally feel letting the suspension do all the work and not the chassis. I had a RC10T4.1 FT with comes with composite chassis and suspension part it always feel numb and didn't response as fast in the turns as my old RC10T4 FT which was using all carbon fiber components and the box stock setup(except using inline steering axles). Not sure how the SRT will handle b/c it's even lighter and hardly any chassis flex what so ever then my old T4.
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  25. #105
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    It is something that I have thought about, but not really planned to do anything on yet.

    In the summer I raced on a bumpy track, currently racing on quite a smooth carpet track with bumpy sections in certain places. These bumps are quite harsh little planks that they stick down to the carpet with velcro.

    Most of the fast guys have VERY stiff cars with metal chassis (primarily SV2s and DEX 210s). The rest of us varies, from an LRP buggy made out of banana peel (yeah really, you wouldn't believe how much you can bend that buggy in your hand!) to a Losi 22 with a super stiff metal chassis.

    I've read that the grey plastic chassis is stiffer, is that right?

  26. #106
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    No difference between the black and grey traxxas parts.
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  27. #107
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    I have the same tranny case on my rustler and was thinking the same thing. I had to drill an extra hole in the motor plate in order to fit the 2200kv motor on it. After drilling I realized that the blue heatsinks were really hot and the motor plate wasnt nearly as hot as they were. I'm guessing they are meant to pull the heat as far away from the motor as possible and so far they work great!! Btw, the blue matches your motor PERFECT and looks great!! Easily one of the cleanest looking bandits I've seen before.

  28. #108
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    Well, that's good to know. I have them back on now, they hardly weight anything! So I'll give them a go

  29. #109
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    On carpet you are right, there is a lot of need for downforce to keep traction. Pretty cool that you are racing a bandit either way. Have you considered getting a couple pieces of aluminum or brass to go down the chassis long ways to add weight and strengthen the chassis? Might help with handling and grip at the same time
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  30. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjm2519 View Post
    On carpet you are right, there is a lot of need for downforce to keep traction. Pretty cool that you are racing a bandit either way. Have you considered getting a couple pieces of aluminum or brass to go down the chassis long ways to add weight and strengthen the chassis? Might help with handling and grip at the same time
    Right now I have individual wheel balancing weights stuck there, it would make sense to have two brass strips instead. Alternatively a true, double deck chassis.

  31. #111
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    Ooops, double post...

  32. #112
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    Final results for 1st winter club series, the rules are as follows 8 races and 5 best count for final results.

    22 people took part in off road and I came 4th overall, but only 6 drivers had 5 results, and this is it:



    I know in general we are not meant to talk about other brands, but I thought it would be useful to give you a sense of what other people are driving so you see the competition has well known race cars. So, from table above the cars are:

    1) Schumacher SV2
    2) Durango DEX210
    3) Losi 22
    4) Traxxas Bandit
    5) Associated B4.1
    6) XFactory X-6

    And final results really are a fairly accurate reflection of out times. The guy with the SV2 is MEGA quick, I am usually 3 whole seconds slower per lap. Closest I have ever been to him in terms of fastest laps was 2 seconds.

    The guy who came third with the Losi 22 is the slowest of the fast guys, and my main target sort of thing

    And the guy with the B4.1 used to be quicker than me and nowdays I am quicker than him most times.

  33. #113
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    hey cunawarit how's the racing bandit going along?
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  34. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by reod12x2 View Post
    hey cunawarit how's the racing bandit going along?
    I'm still racing it, usually doing well against rear motored buggies on carpet. Mostly Associated B4.1s, either beating them or running within a second of them. The mid motored and 4WD buggies are still WAY ahead (yeah, 4WD races alongside 2WD at the club).

    No huge changes since my last post, biggest thing was changing the Schumacher cut stagger front tyres to Ballistic Buggy green compound mini-pins. I tried Schumacher mini-pins up front, but they are not predictable. With the Ballistic Buggy tyres I am about a second faster over a 20-ish second lap.

    Also stiffened the front a bit, and increased droop at the back. I had started having issues with diffing out and that cured it.

    Currently running 4th out of 21 in the current series:



    BTW, I am LOVING the Hot Racing gearbox. And sadly I missed the big race in December, but I do intend to sing up for the one in January. The only issue is that it is sponsored by Schumacher and you need to run Schumacher tyres front and back.... So I'll have to give up my new faster front tyres.

  35. #115
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    Just an ideA. You can convert a SRT into a bandit and have all the adjustments for suspension and caster/camber. You'll just need to mod a bandit body alittle to fit.
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  36. #116
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    Where did you get that transponder???How much was it?

  37. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx2.0 View Post
    Just an ideA. You can convert a SRT into a bandit and have all the adjustments for suspension and caster/camber. You'll just need to mod a bandit body alittle to fit.
    If I got an SRT I'd probably hate to convert it into a Bandit But yeah, it does sound like a decent idea

    I wouldn't mind having an SRT, I hardly ever see a stadium truck at the track. But the club where I race allows them against short course trucks.

  38. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by stampede 4 life View Post
    Where did you get that transponder???How much was it?
    I got it off Ebay for about £10 less than new, The come up fairly often, but never particularly cheap.

    If I were you I'd ask at the track first to see if anyone is selling one.

  39. #119
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    The only thing is I live in a small town.......we only have one small track.But I will ask around thanks!

  40. #120
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    Any updates on this Bandit?
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