Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 134
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639

    Racing Bandit: 8 Stages to success ;)

    Hey guys, I am trying to get into buggy racing with my 15 year old Bandit. Hereís the plan, Iím interested in what you guys think Particularly seasoned racers, and serial modders.

    One thing worth noting is that I donít plan to rush into this, Iíll do a change do a few races learn and then move to the next stage. It might take me a long time to get through the lot

    Stage 0: Where I was, bash spec Bandit



    This was my old Bandit, the key modification was the fitment of non-Traxxas wheels in order to fit normal 2.2 tyres up front. Long ago I used to force the tires to fit the undersized Traxxas wheels but you could never get them to sit on the wheels quite correctly.

    Sadly, I also fitted longer spindles which makes it have a rather wide front track, not to mention a greater scrub radius. It seems to drive OK, but I would rather have it close to the original once more.

    Stage 1: Race wheels and tyres.



    Fitted Schumacher mini-spikes front and rear as recommended by my local club. I learned long ago that the right tyres are key, I used to go and practise fine astro-turf track when I lived in Hampshire and the Bandit was hopeless with the stock Traxxas tyres, but pretty controllable with mini-pins.

    This was the spec for my first race:

    * Ball races all round.
    * Front 2WD wheels from an Ansmann Mad Rat. Had to drill these bigger myself so they would fit.
    * Rustler front axels to be able to screw on the non-stop wheels. This was a mistake to be honest, should have tried to stick with the Bandit ones. (Iíll be honest, I canít remember for sure if thet are Rustler spindles, the key thing is that they are longer than stock)
    * Non-Traxxas springs cannot remember what, but much softer. (I found the stock ones absolutely useless on bumpy tracks).
    * Turnbuckles all round.
    * Steel Drive Yoke Set.
    * Coralliy Street Touring Motor, 16 turn Double.


    Stage 2: Brushless and more negative camber.

    After my first race I learned two things, one that Bandit was too slow and it under-steered like a boat. I took some rough improvised measurements and realized that I had pretty much zero camber, I added some negative camber and I purchased a brushless ESC plus motor combo. I got a 3300kv motor as I donít want to be too quick and hamper my learning. After a solid 2 hours of soldering I also switched everything I have from Tamiya to Deans connectors.

    Lastly I lowered it a bit, I noticed that most all the buggies on the track sat a fair bit lower than mine and still took the jumps just fine.





    This is where I am at, now for speculative further stages:

    Stage 4: Back to legal width and suspension tuning.

    Get it back to as close to 250mm width up front as I can, I will put the original spindles back on and modify a couple of hex nuts to be as thin as they can be without compromising their structural integrity (this should be easy given than these are not driven wheels). And get a full set of springs to decide what setup I like. Iíve had the same set of springs for years, it is softer than stock, and works much much better than stock did on bumpy tracks. Iíll also try a variety of shock oil weights, once again Iíve used the same oil weight for years.

    I should buy Losi springs, right? Do they do a set with various spring rates? If you guys have part numbers for front and back that would be great!!!

    Stage 5: Transmission changes.

    This stage is about transmission improvements, Iíd like to achieve two things:

    1) Some diff tunability in terms of achieving a little bit of a "Posi-Traction" effect that can be dialled up and down depending on track conditions.
    2) Anti-squat.

    I still donít know exactly how I am going to approach this, it could be the PL tranny, or the FLM tranny with a sealed diff or the Traxxas ball diff. Choices choices... I quite like the ease of maintenance of a sealed geared differential as opposed to a ball diff. I have no experience with ball diffs at all! To be honest, I don't even know how they work.

    I know every 1/10 electric race buggy has a ball diff. How much worse is a sealed oil filled diff compared to the Traxxas ball diff?

    I also have questions about the overall weight of a new tranny, the Bandit is already very back heavy. I wouldnít want to make this worse!

    Stage 6: More power and weight balance.

    I hope that by this stage I will have the skills to let me handle more power, so I want to do three things. Firstly go lipo, secondly get the ability to tweak the weight balance as well as get the car as closer to 1.5kg with the lighter batter (right now it is just over 1.6kg), lastly perhaps a more powerful brushless motor. So the shopping list includes:

    * Shorty lipo, these weigh a fair bit less than my current NiMHs and are so small I can move them up and down the chassis.

    * More powerful brushless motor.

    Stage 7: More race oriented suspension

    This is about further suspension tunability, it will involve replacing the shock towers with ones that have more shock positions than stock. I will avoid heavy aluminum in favour of carbon fibre, fibreglass, or plastic. There should be enough choice in the market for me to be able to buy some towers, I donít think Iíd have to make my own. The only thing will be that the wing mount will have to be modified as the new tower probably wonít have the little holes for it. This should be simple.

    Stage 8: SWB chassis.

    This is the hardcore stage, which involves more than just buying things and bolting them. This may involve chopping original chassis down to size, or creating a whole new chassis. At this stage it will be a very different buggy indeed which hopefully can keep up with modern buggies and Iíll be the proud owner owner of something quite unique.

    So? What do you think of the order of these stages? Bare in mind I have exactly one race of experience in terms of RC racing I used to play around with 1:1 cars a fair bit, but I never raced one of those either...

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    miami, fl
    Posts
    271
    WWWOOWWW i cant belive you got that old buggy to be so awesome!!! thats a lotta work!! mmustve been hard...great job. you must totally shred @ the track..can you put up pics of it finished??
    Last edited by tyrustler99; 07-08-2012 at 01:22 PM.
    Rustler...the greatest rc truck of them all

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    I am only at stage 2 The rest is a plan.

    Actually, I noticed that stage 3 is missing... Make Stage 3 "ask the experts", which is what I am doing now

    I plan to move onto stage 4 shortly, next 4 weeks or so.

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg, OH
    Posts
    2,532
    Check out the ANZA caster blocks. They are beefier than stock and they use a kingpin to mount the camber link and steering knuckle to the caster block. This makes for a more race tuned front end. You may also look into an aluminum or fiberglass tie bar for your bulkhead as well as some STRC locking hinge pins. Good luck with the build and keep the pictures coming.
    Was an xl-5, now its vxl-ent!

  5. #5
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    21,219
    This thread has been cleaned up some, it appears I need to remind everyone this is a Traxxas forum and only Traxxas vehicles are allowed to be discussed.
    BlindMan Racing
    Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
    SPC Lipo Power

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    5,986
    I like #5 - transmission changes. Try the FLM differential filled with 30,000 wt oil for starters.

    This is well thought out. Keep us posted on the results.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    8,231
    I still say pro-diff. Most people don't have good luck with them, but then again most people are trying them in a Rustler or Slash for bashing. The Bandit is much lighter and since you're gonna be using this buggy for the track, ball diff IMO is the best option.

    It may take you a little time to figure out how to set it perfect since you haven't used one before, but once you get it dialed you're gonna love it! The biggest issue I had installing the pro-diff in my Bandit was drilling the access hole in the exact location. Aside from that, my diff has been flawless. I haven't put a ton of hours on it yet, but if you get through the first few runs without failure, you should be good to go.

    Nothing like adjusting diff action track side! The Traxxas diff is probably the easiest to adjust out of all the ball diffs I've used. No need to remove any drive shafts or anything. You can actually adjust the diff and spin the wheels to check for tension without having to dis assemble and re assemble anything.

    If you decide to go that route and want some tips, LMK. There are a few little odds and ends details from building to tuning that I've learned over the years and they can save you some major headaches.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    5,986
    A ball diff on that buggy would be sweet. I settled on 30,000wt oil in my FLM diff but it's a chore to break open the tranny to change the oil each time you decide you need more or less diff action. I started with 5,000wt but that was like nothing, not enough so I changed oil once a week for 2 more weeks.

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex!
    Posts
    13,098
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Thanks, very useful.

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Anyway, ready for race two, got a new body as the old one was far too cracked. Kept it way simple, monochrome, and one coat, lightweight







    Also got a set of Losi springs coming soon (sadly some stuff is on a back order) as well as the parts needed to go back to the standard width front. That would be step 4...
    Last edited by cunawarit; 07-12-2012 at 07:18 PM.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    8,231
    Nice! Is that the Traxxas VXL body? Might have to try one. IMO it looks a lot better with that paint job than the pro-graffix schemes.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    It is the VXL body, and yeah I agree it looks nicer in a monochrome scheme than the pro-graffix scheme. A few things, right at the front there a lil detail bulge, so the body doesn't quite hug the chassis as well as the older body. See?



    Secondly, it doesn't come with masks for the windows, instead it comes with windows stickers. I used them, but I'd like to try and mask another properly and see how it looks. I reckon it would look much better with the windows done properly.

    Lastly, the back end part doesn't do it for me, it even comes with a sticker with tail lights and exhaust pipes! I appreciate the detail, but I didn't use it

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    8,231
    Quote Originally Posted by cunawarit View Post
    It is the VXL body, and yeah I agree it looks nicer in a monochrome scheme than the pro-graffix scheme. A few things, right at the front there a lil detail bulge, so the body doesn't quite hug the chassis as well as the older body. See?



    Secondly, it doesn't come with masks for the windows, instead it comes with windows stickers. I used them, but I'd like to try and mask another properly and see how it looks. I reckon it would look much better with the windows done properly.

    Lastly, the back end part doesn't do it for me, it even comes with a sticker with tail lights and exhaust pipes! I appreciate the detail, but I didn't use it

    I see what you mean with the bulge. Looks like an attempt to keep the bell crank and linkage from being so exposed? I re-drilled and cut my bell crank because of that. Got a good servo, so no need for all that leverage.

    The biggest problem I'm having with the old school Bandit body is that it doesn't quite clear my esc. It's mounted on the driver's side of the chassis and just barely hits the heat sink. Looks like the VXL body might have even less clearance. Maybe it will work if I run without the heat sink. Been thinking of trying it with the current body, but haven't had a chance yet. I don't really think it will be a problem because it doesn't run hot at all with the current setup.

    As for the window masks, you can use the decals on the inside of the body if you want clear. Might be a little difficult to remove them after painting though.

    Oh, and I like the way it looks without the tail piece.

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    The biggest problem I'm having with the old school Bandit body is that it doesn't quite clear my esc. It's mounted on the driver's side of the chassis and just barely hits the heat sink.
    Actually, I put my ESC there too and I was having this problem, and the VXL body has a little more clearance, provided that the ESC is mounted ahead of the fake vent.

    I'll post some pics of the inside tomorrow so you see how high my ESC is, it is pretty high with a fan and it clears it OK. It was hitting the old body.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    5,986
    Why doesn't anyone paint the wing anymore? I noticed that at my track too.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    I never did, even when I first painted the Bandit back in 97 I thought the wing looked cooler see through

    Anyway, this painjob too 50 seconds or so, with the wing... I don't know, it would have been a minute 20! Too long

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Anyway harry, here's a pic of my ESC and location, it clears it just fine nice. With the old body it used to touch.

    Last edited by cunawarit; 07-13-2012 at 02:53 AM.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    765
    Does the bandit have the 2.72 transmission still? Would the new pro-line tranny not be an ideal upgrade for this?
    0111001101101001011001110000110100001010

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Quote Originally Posted by Cipher_Jones View Post
    Does the bandit have the 2.72 transmission still? Would the new pro-line tranny not be an ideal upgrade for this?
    Perhaps, I am waiting to see if it becomes the de facto standard amongst Slash racers. Right now I am divided between an FLM tranny case with a Traxxas pro ball diff, or a PL tranny. harry697 swears by the ball diff, in an ideal world PL would release a ball diff for their tranny I guess that is worth waiting a little for.

    But first things first, I need to get suspension setting I am happy with before moving to the next stage.

    As far as racing today, too much rain Decided to take up RC racing on the wettest summer since records began

    So back to testing my new setup on grassy bits nearby instead... Incidentally, my ancient steel output yokes died recently, all it took was a couple of test runs with the new brushless system and they developed a whole lot of play!!! Got some new ones and these are considerably better, they have a solid pin, the older ones a hollow pin.

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    765
    Quote Originally Posted by cunawarit View Post
    Perhaps, I am waiting to see if it becomes the de facto standard amongst Slash racers. Right now I am divided between an FLM tranny case with a Traxxas pro ball diff, or a PL tranny. harry697 swears by the ball diff, in an ideal world PL would release a ball diff for their tranny I guess that is worth waiting a little for.

    But first things first, I need to get suspension setting I am happy with before moving to the next stage.

    As far as racing today, too much rain Decided to take up RC racing on the wettest summer since records began

    So back to testing my new setup on grassy bits nearby instead... Incidentally, my ancient steel output yokes died recently, all it took was a couple of test runs with the new brushless system and they developed a whole lot of play!!! Got some new ones and these are considerably better, they have a solid pin, the older ones a hollow pin.
    I haven't touched a bandit in years, and don't know how the 2wd slash is setup, but the reason the guys were saying the proline is so neat is it allows for rear toe and/or camber. Not much use to bashers but essential to racing.

    If the slash already has all the racing adjust-ability the slash guys wont need the proline, but IMHO it seems like it would be great for the rusty/bandit.
    0111001101101001011001110000110100001010

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    8,231
    Quote Originally Posted by Cipher_Jones View Post
    I haven't touched a bandit in years, and don't know how the 2wd slash is setup, but the reason the guys were saying the proline is so neat is it allows for rear toe and/or camber. Not much use to bashers but essential to racing.

    If the slash already has all the racing adjust-ability the slash guys wont need the proline, but IMHO it seems like it would be great for the rusty/bandit.
    The Slash and Bandit both use arms that have toe-in. I want to say 3 degrees. The Rustler is the one that has no rear toe and would benefit most from the Proline trans. The Bandit could possibly need an extra degree of toe depending on track conditions, which could be achieved with different carriers. Main advantages of running a PL trans in a Bandit would be the ability to adjust the squat angle and the aluminum motor plate for strength and to help motor temps.

    In other words, the Bandit will benefit from the PL trans, but probably gain the least amount of performance of all the vehicles that the transmission fits.

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex!
    Posts
    13,098
    I have bandit rear arms and never knew they hat toe... Go figurelol...
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    I have bandit rear arms and never knew they hat toe... Go figurelol...
    You can see it clearly here:



    Its not easy to miss

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    5,986
    Quote Originally Posted by cunawarit View Post
    I never did, even when I first painted the Bandit back in 97 I thought the wing looked cooler see through

    Anyway, this painjob too 50 seconds or so, with the wing... I don't know, it would have been a minute 20! Too long
    Man you were 10 years ahead of your time. Lol

    What color is that paint? I really like it with the white wheels.

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    What color is that paint? I really like it with the white wheels.
    Fastrax Fast Finish Mint Green: http://www.fastrax-rc.com/rc-product...0001045&cat=GA

    Me too I very pleased with how it looks.

  27. #27
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    west palm beach FL
    Posts
    1,205
    subscribed!

    ive had pretty good luck with the stock gear diff on oval but ill agree, with a buggy setup the traxxas pro diff is great, have one in my sprint car and my bomber (both 272 boxes) and like them very much. in my sprint car (272 box w/ 2.2 buggy tires) im running the strc/b4 slipper setup with a traxxas pro ball diff and machined aluminum idler. shimmed and assembled right ive got very little rolling resistance and with the revtech 13.5/mmp/2s setup im geared like a 7 something FDR with tons of boost (45įtiming on motor and 30% on the mmpro) and a optional torque rotor. that little car screams!

    as for motor selection ill say that a 10.5 with boost is all you need (atleast thats my feeling)

    i would try 35wt up front, 30 rear, running it on my srt for offroad (didnt tell no one about that yet ) and it seems to work. im running vintage traxxas springs so its not really helpful since i dont have the rates written down anywhere. maybe 5į toe out up front.

    oh and +1 to what harry said about the body, very nicely cut.
    Last edited by SRTracer121; 07-14-2012 at 09:07 PM.
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  28. #28
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Thanks for the tips SRTracer121

    Since I couldn't race this Friday I spent some time today doing some testing in an improvised short grass figure 8 track with a bit of a natural jump in the middle.

    I put red Losi springs up front and pink out the back, it is soft but I will leave it like that till the next race. I can't recall if the track is bumpier than where I was testing today. I rather be too soft than not cope with the bumps. If it is about the same I reckon I could step up to orange up front and red out back. Up front during the first race it had about zero camber, stiffer springs than Losi reds and almost no droop. Now it has a bit of droop, and feels much plusher up front, in effect it carves the corners like I never thought the Bandit would!

    So successfully in fact that diffing out is a bit of a problem now. To combat this I am running lots of droop out back in an attempt to keep the back wheels in contact with the ground. This is may not be ideal, with a better diff in a similar surface I think you could set up the suspension so it rolls less. I did grip roll it twice, but the Bandit's wing is so high up that it kept on rolling straight back onto its wheels both times

    I am running 15wt shock oil both front at back. This is less than most ppl seem to run, but it feels great to me I'm a noob at this I know... I don't know if it could be settling after a bump quicker or not, but it felt controllable and easy to drive to me.

    Anyway, it corners like it is on rails compared to before! It was transformational. So not the perfect setup, there's room for improvement. But I think at the track it will be a much more satisfying drive.

    As for the motor well, it could be quicker. But still it got quite hot. I've never been able to run on full throttle so long before

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Second race meeting

    I did WAY better, but it was the most challenging RC driving I have ever done, it was very very wet indeed.

    Only a few turned up, the fast guys! So not many noobs to make me look good I don't think many people who are not super keen to race turn up to a muddy track

    Anyway, I came third in the three heats and the final, and on the final I led for three laps During the final I also heard the words "Come on, we are all getting beat by a Traxxas!". Uttered by a guy who owns a model shop and is good enough to be racing in regional meets So I am quite proud of that!!!

    Being totally honest, rain was a HUGE MASSIVE ASTRONOMICAL equalizer The crazy mid-motor buggies no longer had a huge advantage.

    See the times:



    So my best lap was 17.119 seconds, vs the fastest guy at 16.320 The other buggies were all modern race buggies, one rear motored and the other two mid motored. One of the mid motor buggies (car 1) couldn't get any grip all day long. The poor guy didn't get a single clean lap really.

    I say it was challenging because the track kept changing with time, lines that worked all of a sudden stoped working. Bits that were slippy all of a sudden gripped, etc... Crazy conditions!!!

    Anyway, at the end my buggy looked like this:



    And that's after a massive clean at the track!

    PS: They keep getting my name wrong, I am neither Gy, nor Guy... But hey, I'll be Guy... it doesn't matter

    What I learned:

    1) Sometimes you need to improvize and change settings on the fly. On my first outing I had way too much front grip, I didn't have time to change springs between racing and marshalling so I simply added lots of pre-load and that worked.

    2) I've gone too soft up front, and potentially I need more dampening. I was landing quite harshly.

    3) I love racing in the wet!!! Seriously this was MUCH more fun that the first time out, rain is a great equalizer.

    4) Potentially the Bandit will never be that good on grippy grass or astro. Maybe I should venture to a dirt track and see how it does there.
    Last edited by cunawarit; 07-20-2012 at 05:43 PM. Reason: Forgot some detail.

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Improvement wise, last time I was about 4 seconds slower than the fastest guy. This time I am 0.8 seconds

    I fully realize that it might not be anywhere that close in the dry. I could use full throttle, just by looking at the way some of the others drove I suspect some couldn't

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    8,231
    Nice run! Less than 1 second difference between the top three guys for fastest lap. That's what I call close!

    Do you have any pics or vids of this track and/or race? Those numbers seem to indicate that any type of crash can be fatal. Everybody has a couple/few slow laps here and there, but it's the difference in lap times between their average lap and the bad lap. I'm seeing anywhere from 5-10 seconds, no matter which car it is! Do the marshals all have to sit in a dugout behind the driver's stand until a car crashes or something? My local track is fairly small compared to most in the area. Our bad laps are usually no more than 2-3 seconds off of our average pace. If a car sits on it's lid long enough for the drive wheels to stop spinning, a marshal will be stoned to death before the end of the day. No, that doesn't really happen, but it's definitely frowned upon.



    And doesn't it just put a big grin on your face when the other guys start talking about being beaten by a Traxxas! I used to hear it quite a bit back when I raced the SRT. Some of those guys were genuinely upset that they couldn't beat me with their T4's and XXX-T's.

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    5,986
    Nice work! Now take that buggy home and give it a good bath.

    Did you change tires for the wet conditions?

    Sent from my HTC with Tapatalk.2
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Well, it was wet and slippery today. It was difficult to marshal, and not many of us either. In total 8 cars raced, 4 trucks and 4 buggies. So marshals have to cover big areas where running was honestly hard

    The track is temporary and gets set up different each time, I suspect it gets set up bigger or smaller depending on turnout. I've seen pics of when they hold regional rounds and they set up a huge track compared to the club nights I have been to.

    I'll PM you a link to the club's gallery.

    And yeah it did make me smile, the Bandit got talked about a bit. It was commented that getting beat by a Traxxas would have been "humiliating" One guy commented that it was running very well on the wet, and I agree. It ran better than I could have ever expected!!!! I didn't even have the wet tires! I had the tyres they recommended me for dry weather.

    It can be quicker and better for sure. The setup I have right now is far from ideal, but I don't think huge improvements like this will ever happen again. I've gone from a totally awful setup, to something quite reasonable
    Last edited by cunawarit; 07-20-2012 at 06:48 PM.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    Did you change tires for the wet conditions?
    No, I was using the "dry" tyres. Yellow Schumacher mini spikes. The bloke that organizes the races told me that when the Schumachers are still new they are usable in the wet (mine are new really), but in the wet most of them use Ballistic Buggy tyres.

  35. #35
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    phoenix
    Posts
    1,118
    im not one for green but your bandit looks pretty sweet. i just picked up an old one myself that i plan on fixing up a bit.

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    Quote Originally Posted by redlightrandy View Post
    im not one for green but your bandit looks pretty sweet. i just picked up an old one myself that i plan on fixing up a bit.
    Thanks I'm very happy with how it turned out too

    I saw your thread, seeing a lot more Bandit activity in the forum. I'm liking it

  37. #37
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    639
    A little update here as I think I've reached a pretty decent base setup to start working from using orange Losi springs up front, red at the back and 30 weight shock oil with three hole pistons. Running about 1.5 degree of neg camber at the back and 2.7 up front.

    This is working great! I am still very slow on the dry but not the slowest And it isn't all handling, it is a combination of the following issues:

    1) Skills: I wouldn't say I suck, but I am clearly a noob, I don't crash out all the time by any means, but I am not very consistent compared to the quick guys. Lap after lap after lap they get nearly the same lap times over and over. I don't, particularly when there are other cars around me. I quite simply I need to get better, given that I have only been to three race meets this is not shocking

    2) Grip rolling: Now I have enough grip that I can grip roll, but it isn't too bad. As a first step I might simply go to cut staggers up front rather than mini spikes. And perhaps lower the ride height. I don't know if this will be enough or not, if it isn't I will have to be a little more creative.

    This may be what ultimately kills my dreams of having the Bandit be competitive, if I cannot corner as fast as the fast guys without rolling then it is game over. I think it should be surmountable, even if I have to run a metal plate under my battery

    3) Speed: Seriously lacking power here, I should go lipo. On the B final today the fastest guy wasn't out-handling me by much if anything at all, in fact I was quicker on a couple of corners for sure. But when he can cover the long main straight in much less time and out accelerate me out of every turn than me I have no chance.

    PS: I'm not sure I am a huge fan of super grippy grass racing... I had much more fun in the rain, I'd love to try a dirt track Or perhaps I am just bitter that I was no longer battling at the front and was once again relegated to the back.
    Last edited by cunawarit; 08-03-2012 at 05:18 PM.

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    5,986
    I thought you already were running lipo. Glad to gear the good results though.

    Sent from my old phone
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    279
    Man that is a beautiful bandit indeed!

  40. #40
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    219
    awsome project love what ur doing keep it up and hope you win a race or 2 in the end!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •