My REVO-E conversion

[humayrayakongkinaon]

recieved my motor mount today and install it, then come across that i have to put spacer to lift the motor up its hitting the mount and i put spacer to move the motor a bit forward and file the chassis a bit to get the exact mesh. here are the pics.

[87 GN]

Nothing like mod'ing new parts, A..
good work..

[metoo2]

Nothing like mod'ing new parts, A..
good work..

Yeah, don't you hate that? I just bought that same mount for a friend'd Revo. His will have a 36mm motor which is nearly 6mm less, but from the pics, it looks like spacers will still be required. This makes me wonder what size motor did that company design the mount for. I would think anything smaller than 36mm is too small to be worth converting a Revo 3.3 for.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

i think after market company need second opinion from us before they put this in the market, lol. all and all i'm very satisfied , it runs just as fast or maybe even faster when i have the plastic chassis before. i geared it 20t/36t and the first time i gun it, it did a back flip, did'nt expect that to happen cause with the plastic chassis geared at 20t/40t it only lift the front end.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

[87 GN]

there we go... look'n good
are you going to run the ride height that low?
might try the middle hole on the push rods..

[humayrayakongkinaon]

there we go... look'n good
are you going to run the ride height that low?
might try the middle hole on the push rods..

i'm going to raise it up after i finish doing a speed run, i zip tie the rocker to get it that low.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

video will be posted soon, after i tame this new breed of beast, lol. cant keep the front end lifting up when i squeze the last 25% throttle. i think a wheelie bar will solve this problem.

[87 GN]

OOo I see it now, how'd I miss that...

[Deisel]

Looking quite manly there.

[DiggerPede]

Dude you do some of the cleanest work out there. I love seeing your trucks. I know I said it once already, but but but......

I'd love to see a running video......

[metoo2]

video will be posted soon, after i tame this new breed of beast, lol. cant keep the front end lifting up when i squeze the last 25% throttle. i think a wheelie bar will solve this problem.

When I saw your battery tray, I was going to suggest making it so that the battery mounts as far forward as possible. It won't stop the wheelies, but it will delay them. I haven't seen the top speed of mine for the same reason.

[metoo2]

i have locked the trans to 2nd gear already with the 3 screw method but, i still think that it needs a better way to secure the 3 screws. so, my idea is to machine and mill a aluminum and shape it just like the clutch but with a larger diameter so that i can drill 3 holes for the screw, that way its much secure.

If you design it differently, no screws will be needed at all. Seach for Oomp's 2nd gear lock. I'm going to design one and try to get a friend to machine it for me since oomp has made it clear that he's not going to make and sell them.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

When I saw your battery tray, I was going to suggest making it so that the battery mounts as far forward as possible. It won't stop the wheelies, but it will delay them. I haven't seen the top speed of mine for the same reason.

i thinking of getting the summit rear a-arms, it will extend my wheelbase a few mm back plus a wheelie bar, that should plan it to the ground.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

If you design it differently, no screws will be needed at all. Seach for Oomp's 2nd gear lock. I'm going to design one and try to get a friend to machine it for me since oomp has made it clear that he's not going to make and sell them.

i think i've seen that mod, almost the same as that guy posted on #20 second gear lockout.

[metoo2]

i thinking of getting the summit rear a-arms, it will extend my wheelbase a few mm back plus a wheelie bar, that should plan it to the ground.

Are they more swept back than the adjustable rear arms Part# 5328? That's what I have on mine.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

here is my quick speed run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCKoK...ature=youtu.be

[humayrayakongkinaon]

Are they more swept back than the adjustable rear arms Part# 5328? That's what I have on mine.

they are the same a-arms, except that its stock for summits.

[slowrider998]

awesome build man! youve inspired me to do a conversion as well.
Does anyone make/sell that aluminum piece to lock into 2nd gear full time?
Thanks

[humayrayakongkinaon]

thanks, metoo2 might have some more info about that or you can do like evreryone else does, the 3 screws method, thats what i did to mine for now.

awesome build man! youve inspired me to do a conversion as well.
Does anyone make/sell that aluminum piece to lock into 2nd gear full time?
Thanks

[humayrayakongkinaon]

thanks deisel, just doing my thing, lol.

Looking quite manly there.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

i appreaciate that DiggerPede and i posted a short speed run video.

Dude you do some of the cleanest work out there. I love seeing your trucks. I know I said it once already, but but but......

I'd love to see a running video......

[metoo2]

here is my quick speed run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCKoK...ature=youtu.be

Sweet. How much trottle were you able to use? I may have to try that ziptie trick for when I'm playing on the street and see if that helps controll the wheelies.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

i could only throttle it at 75% or it will flip over. tire are balloning real bad so its not helping me either.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

anyone here ever use the aluminum slipper clutch pads? thats what i have on right now and it stipped my input gear with only 3 runs and if i loosen it, it makes alot of grinding noise. good thing i have a replacement gear. i guess i'll stop by at the LHS to pick up the stock slipper clutch pads.

[metoo2]

I have them, but haven't used them long enough to give an opinion.

[87 GN]

That is the nitro trans correct, one of my friends has a mod'd 3.3 & he strip trans gears way to often. A BL trans usually doesn't have this prob. IDk what he did but he upgraded something, sorry no help..

[humayrayakongkinaon]

yep, maybe i put too much stress to it when i gear it 20t/36t, i dont know? i went back to 14t/40t and thats when i stripped it. i can replace my input gear with mod1 18t pinion cause i have a 2nd gear wide ratio 18t/38t. if i can successfully build me that adapter for my 2nd gear lock out i can use the mod1 spur 38t. i'll post a picture of it when i get it done so that you guys know what i'm talking about.

That is the nitro trans correct, one of my friends has a mod'd 3.3 & he strip trans gears way to often. A BL trans usually doesn't have this prob. IDk what he did but he upgraded something, sorry no help..

[humayrayakongkinaon]

you can never say, you never crash your truck real bad and expect alot of spending and fixing it, lol. just the other day it was getting dark and decided to do some speed run down the street and on its 3rd pass one glimps and thats all it takes to smack my truck at the rear of my parked car, the impact sound really bad that all this broken part list scroll down thru my head, lol. amazingly when i pulled it out, its still in one piece with no sign of broken a-arms or bent push rods/toelinks, etc... but upon further investigation, i found the broken part, my MMM esc case was cracked and the fan is destroyed along with the fin that looks like they were comb down. i manage to straightened the fins up now. ESC still works OK when i plug the lipo back in, beeps 4 times like it should for 4s and tone after that. i order the replacement case with fan off ebay for $10 something. i guess i got away this time on the expensive fix.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

i was tinkering it tonight and did some changes, move things around. i dont want this to happen to my esc again so i made a tray for it to mount it more lower and move the battery tray forward.
this is how it was before

to now



it looks much better.

[mike-susieq1]

that does look better than before nice setup, i see excaltly how you did that too. nice job.

[metoo2]

yep, maybe i put too much stress to it when i gear it 20t/36t, i dont know? i went back to 14t/40t and thats when i stripped it. ......

If we assume perfect traction (no tire spinning) upon acceleration, increasing the pinion size or lowering the spur size will produce LESS stress on the the input gear teeth since torque to the input shaft will be reduced. It's just more work (and thus more heat) for the motor. So, you were doing your tranny and axles a favor with the 20/36t, while reducing wheelies and obtaining higher speed. I saw stress marks on all the teeth of the input gear with the 38/18 spur/pinion. I changed to 36/18, but it was too late, the gear went south due to the damage already done. I'm going to give 36/19 a try. I'm also installing Robinson's steel 13/18 input gears. I figured $22 bucks for a drop-in was better than $10 for a steel pinion and having to deal with getting it fixed to the input shaft in the right spot.

Your new config with the battery up front should be better to help that front end stay down. This is very similar to how it would be configured using the SCTE battery tray. I just install one on the build I'm doing now for my buddy, except your battery is much lower.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

i did actually back flip it on 20t/40t and now that i have it on 14t/40t it just sprint out at starting point.

[metoo2]

.... I'm also installing Robinson's steel 13/18 input gears. I figured $22 bucks for a drop-in was better than $10 for a steel pinion and having to deal with getting it fixed to the input shaft in the right spot."

Well, I actually installed it today and found out that the tooth profile of the RR input gears do not match the stock plastic gears. With the stock tranny (FOC, no first gear on the 2-speed shaft, and clutch locked to the 2nd gear) loose in your hand, you can snap spin the input shaft and the it will turn about 10 times before is stops. The tranny is butter smooth. With the RR input gears, the mesh is tight. It spins nearly 0 turns with a snap spin...and that's if you can snap spin it without your fingers slipping off. I ran it on a corded drill for about 15 minutes. That seemed to help. I can get 1 or two spins on it. I'm now running it for an additional 15 minutes at a higher speed. I'll open the tranny up and blow out the plastic dust that I'm sure will be in there and slap it back on the truck. She won't be as effecient now. Oh, well...at least it will run...until the next weak point is discovered.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

wait, are you saying that the pitch of the input gear did'nt match the rest of the internal gear? internal tranny gears are mod one or 24 pitch and i would assume that since RR made this input gear for revo that they should match? to my understanding that if your second gear has 38t and to mesh it right, you have to get the 18t input gear.

Well, I actually installed it today and found out that the tooth profile of the RR input gears do not match the stock plastic gears. With the stock tranny (FOC, no first gear on the 2-speed shaft, and clutch locked to the 2nd gear) loose in your hand, you can snap spin the input shaft and the it will turn about 10 times before is stops. The tranny is butter smooth. With the RR input gears, the mesh is tight. It spins nearly 0 turns with a snap spin...and that's if you can snap spin it without your fingers slipping off. I ran it on a corded drill for about 15 minutes. That seemed to help. I can get 1 or two spins on it. I'm now running it for an additional 15 minutes at a higher speed. I'll open the tranny up and blow out the plastic dust that I'm sure will be in there and slap it back on the truck. She won't be as effecient now. Oh, well...at least it will run...until the next weak point is discovered.

[Wolfslash16]

Nice build! It looks cleaner than most of the other builds out there!

YEA haven't seen a good 3.3 BL conversion in awhile. You know the die hard Nitro guys cringe every time they see one of their own converted....Teheheee

And you guys wonder why I hate reading threads like these... JK!

[MITCH316]

i was tinkering it tonight and did some changes, move things around. i dont want this to happen to my esc again so i made a tray for it to mount it more lower and move the battery tray forward.
this is how it was before

to now



it looks much better.

You've done a neat job there mate...keep up the good work

[humayrayakongkinaon]

thanks craig and wolf, just doing my thing and improvise little by little

[rc driver dude]

Awesome build! I have a 3.3 and was thinking about converting it, but was worried about the price. You did a great job customizing everything to fit.
A few questions
Are those the nitro diffs? Did you lock the transmission in one gear? Where did you get the esc and motor from and how much were they? Also last thing, how does it drive?

Thanks

[IvVaum]

wow...is the chassis of the revo better than that plastic e-revo?...was thinking about that a carbon fiber chassis...and a conversion kit...and then transfer all the stuff on my e-revo over to the new chassis...what do u guys think?...i just want a stronger body than the plastic it has now...

how much did the parts cost u?...just want to get an idea of how much this is going to set me back...