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  1. #401
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    It's funny, I have no idea how I'm keeping up with you guys with no shock modifications at all (aside from new oil, which is 15wt more heavy than stock). Pretty good for not having LCG either.
    Slash VXL
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  2. #402
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    well today i lowered the front posts on my racer one more notch. then had to trim the front corners of the wheel wells on both sides.

    i switched remote to 70/30 instead of 50/50 to hopefully make controlling it at the track a little easier.

    i reglued my race tires because for some reason i think i missed parts of the tires..............

    and last but not least i installed my savox servo that i had boughten for my t-maxx but never installed (and now sold t-maxx). its the 222.2oz torque one, which is probably overkill since the 2075 servo worked just fine lol. i just put it one because i think its faster than the 2075 servo as well.
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  3. #403
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    Hey, at least now you can mount some 1/7th scale tires and not have to worry about your servo!
    Slash VXL
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    Summit 1/16 VXL

  4. #404
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    i brought the front of my body down a little more.



    new servo

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  5. #405
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Is that the stock servo saver? Pick up a kimorough 124. You will feel a big difference between the 2 servos.
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  6. #406
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    got a link? ive never even heard of that. but its just for now. i plan on switching to the bellcrank system that comes on the vxl slash stock as well as the 4x4 slash. well probably the proline precission steering system but same design. when i bought my roller it was just a brushed rolling chassis so i didnt get the nicer steering system
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  7. #407
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  8. #408
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    so what is so special about this saver? mines actually not a stock saver, its a traxxas heavy duty servo saver. the stock one junked out on me like litterly the first run i think.
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  9. #409
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    well hello everyone.......... so after a little stint away from the forum im back again lol. so to sum things up from last race season i did really good at first until i switched to the losi ten scte shocks. even after getting the lighter spring option i still was to stiff up front mostly. i tried all sorts of things to compensate which some things helped but over all it just wasnt the same race truck on the oval anymore. so for this next season im going back to the roots more. i put stock grey ultra shocks back all around and i will be using a selection of springs from jangs post (losi springs) for tuning.

    i have an idea that i want some opinions on please. does anyone actually race with the protrac suspension? how much does it actually help? i already have mip dogbones in the rear so i was thinking to start i would just buy the parts for the front of a 2wd protrac suspension since i have unused protrac wheels that came with my 4x4 protrac kit (monster truck build, using pede wheels). i figure this way i can tune the front more and i wouldnt have to buy rear axles (again) yet.

    heres my full current setup of parts and what not.

    pro-2 lcg chassis
    duratrax onyx element 3900kv 4 pole motor esc combo (by castle)
    rpm front and rear shock towers
    mip light duty dogbone axle setup
    rpm rear bumper
    proline adjustable body posts
    traxxas 2075 servo
    rpm front and rear hub carriers
    proline hinge pins (stock kingpins still)
    proline performance steering system
    dished slash 4x4 offset wheels all the way around
    duratrax posse super soft (c3) rear tires
    duratrax bandito c3 front tires
    strc c blocks
    rpm hybrid transmission case
    and front bumper is cut down to finish it all off.
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
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  10. #410
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    I used to run the protrac kit for racing but I think using anza towers with stock arms works better. More options for tuning and it seems like the anza towers have better geometry when run with stock arms vs protrac arms.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2

  11. #411
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    i dont even know the anza website, what is it? and my front towers now have no adjustment at all. theres one hole for the camber link, and one hole for the shocks and thats it lol. if its a 2 piece aluminum tower i can tell you right now i dont want it. i had the strc tower in the rear which was a 2 piece bolt together design and the holes stripped out and the tower started to seperate on the very first day of use. which is when i got the rpm tower lol.
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  12. #412
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    Just google anza rc and it should come up. I think its just anza.co but I could be wrong. And no, its not a 2 piece aluminum tower, its carbon fiber. I tried posting a picture but tapatalk is being its usual self and not letting me at the moment.



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2
    Last edited by Building Boost; 01-26-2014 at 11:21 PM.

  13. #413
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The anza c-blocks come with hardened kingpins, and are available with 30(stock) or 25(-5) of caster. The -5 casters will reduce camber gain as the suspension loads up while turning, in turn keeping the ft tire flatter to the ground while loaded. It could help or hurt as I have not tried them(yet), but it def helps an off road car on flatter surfaces have more consistent, predictable steering.
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  14. #414
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    The anza c-blocks come with hardened kingpins, and are available with 30(stock) or 25(-5) of caster. The -5 casters will reduce camber gain as the suspension loads up while turning, in turn keeping the ft tire flatter to the ground while loaded. It could help or hurt as I have not tried them(yet), but it def helps an off road car on flatter surfaces have more consistent, predictable steering.
    hmmmmm very intresting. i definately would only have intrest in the 25 degree blocks since i already have the strc aluminum ones in 30 degrees. oh and i have the extra wide ones you linked to me a while back (maybe rc solutions?) but i did some pricing last night and found that for the price of buying front protrac parts im only the cost of shipping from buying the full kit for my 2wd so ill just buy the whole thing i guess and only install the front part right away lol.
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  15. #415
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Just wondering why you put the traxxas 2075 servo back in?
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  16. #416
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    My savox servo went bad on me.
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
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  17. #417
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08kgraves View Post
    My savox servo went bad on me.
    Awh that sucks budd
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  18. #418
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    And the only time I ever had a problem with a Traxxas servo was steering on my t-maxx. Other than that they have been good to me
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  19. #419
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08kgraves View Post
    And the only time I ever had a problem with a Traxxas servo was steering on my t-maxx. Other than that they have been good to me
    I've had troubles with them upon impact of crashes. The gears would strip and such but as long as you stay out of trouble you'll be good
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  20. #420
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    the worst it really sees is either a traction roll or if me and another racer get a little to agressive and either spin out or occasionally flip from it. and it never sees anything other than a dirt oval. ill still probably look around for a metal gear servo that has some more speed and equal torque. i had no need for the 222oz of torque my savox had anyway lol.
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  21. #421
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    so............. going through and making some repairs to my race body to try and make it last another season. and also going through the suspension to put all my shocks in with the ti-nitride shafts and making sure the bladders are all good and whatnot since i pulled those losi ten scte shocks off. in the losi shocks i was running 35w oil up front with 30w oil in the back. well hopefully ill have lighter springs now so i think ill start off with 30w up front and 25w in the back.

    now for springs.
    i thought i bought a set of the basic stock grey ultra shocks with stock springs and all. but the springs that came with are all single rate not the progressives or anything that they show on the diagram. the bodies are the same length but springs are just different and i have no clue what they are what so ever. for the front shocks i have losi red 2" 2.5ppi springs to start with. but i have no clue what these stock rear ones are. any one have any ideas on this? did brushed models not have the progressive springs or something maybe?
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  22. #422
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    pede rustler and bandits came with single rate springs. Only the slashes came with the progressives. Must have been from one of them...
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  23. #423
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    pede rustler and bandits came with single rate springs. Only the slashes came with the progressives. Must have been from one of them...
    are they all the same length as a whole assembly as well? if i had to guess they might be either bandit or rustler then from my contraption that i built. still would really like to know the actual spring rates of them though
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  24. #424
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    someone linked the info here in a post on my oval racing setup thread awhile back. but here it is copied and pasted for many others to easily see.






    The Dirt Oval Handling Guide

    Directions: Do one of the following change to your vehicle at a time and drive test.
    Keep good notes (It's hard to do at the track but try to keep a log it really helps).
    Also, don't forget to have fun....

    Phase 1 (going into the turn)

    If the vehicle is loose at turn entry then..(needs more traction)

    (1) Right front spring is to soft use a harder spring
    (2) You need to add more crossweight - by adding a round to the right front spring (add weight to the left rear tire).
    (3) Change left front spring to a softer spring.
    (4) Lower chassis - keeping it level with the rear.
    (5) Reduce front right caster (no less than 2 degree min.)

    OR If the vehicle is pushing into the turn entry then..

    (1) Right front spring needs to be softer.
    (2) You need to reduce the crossweight - by taking out a round to the right front spring (add weight to the front left tire)
    (3) Increasing right rear spring tension by one round
    (4) Increase front right caster (6 degrees max.)

    Phase 2 (the middle of the turn)

    If the vehicle is loose in the middle of the turn then...(needs more traction)

    (1) Increasing the crossweight by adding a round to the front right and left rear evenly (add weight to the left rear tire)
    (2) Use a harder spring to the left rear
    (3) The right rear spring needs to be decrease a round (less spring tension)

    OR If the vehicle pushes in the middle of the turn then...(needs more steering)

    (1) Decrease crossweight by taking out a round to the front right and left rear evenly
    (2) Use a softer spring to the right rear
    (3) The right rear spring needs to be increase a round (more spring tension)

    Phase 3 (coming out of the turn..)

    If the vehicle is loose coming out of the turn then..(needs more traction)

    (1) Stagger needs to be decreased on the right side
    (2) Increase crossweight by adding a round of spring tension to the right front and left rear evenly (add weight to the left rear tire)
    (3) Check if right rear spring tension is to much - if it is then take a round out of spring.
    (4) Decrease rear springs evenly to the right and left rear.
    (5) Use a soft tire in the rear

    OR If the vehicle pushes coming out of the turn then...(needs more steering)

    (1) Stagger needs to be increased on the right side if present.
    (2) Decrease crossweight by reducing a round of spring tension to the right front and left rear evenly (add weight to the front left tire)
    (3) Increase right rear spring tension a round.
    (4) Increase rear springs evenly to the right and left rear.




    Here is some additional information from Arnie Fie with Custom Works from the Dirt Oval.com forum. They were talking about an Intimidator SE on foam tires but a lot of the weight transfer and crossweight information can be applied to any dirt oval vehicle. Hope it helps.

    Step 1: Make sure all the links and arms are free with no binding
    Step 2: Check suspension for proper up/down travel
    Step 3: level dog bones
    Step 4: level rest of chassis to match rear
    Step 5: Camber RF 0 LF 1 out RR 1 in LR 1 out
    Step 6: Put all the spacers on the bottom of front kingpins
    Step 7: equalize front wheel weights on scales after loading the suspension

    I'd say the list is great, minus line Step 6: It could just simple be the KISS Method line...."make camber links parallel and even lengths" OR "make the setup of the car simple".

    Tires: Prep tires with traction compound and open up the grooves enough to get bite

    Yes, truing tires with alteast 5 grooves across the front and rear (usu 7 on the rear for me) using the dangerous little red disk from Dremel will never hold you back. Also cross-grooving at every lug on CW wheels and then another groove in between each groove is also good measure. When the tire wears on a race day, you can simply re-groove the tires without truing the tire to size during the race day. This will save you from not having the tire "scuffed in" and making the car rather tight or loose until the tire opens up. When the tires are de-staggered by .050" then it is certainly time to match the diameters back up unless ofcourse you are happy and fast.

    Please let me know if there is something I missed. There is nothing more frustrating than a car handling poorly and not knowing how to make it right. I see many drivers just cranking on springs to make the cars drivable but few have success. I find the preload adjustments to be for ride height mainly and get into trouble when I put alot of turns in/out of my cars. Seems to be too extreme.

    The collars are to be turned to jack weight AND change ride height. BOTH the ride height and the weight placement effect the ENTIRE attitude of the car. Most racers experience frustration when...


    1) The shock length is already maxed out when the car is sitting. This is to say there is ZERO up travel when you pick up on that corner of the car and that corner of the chassis' shock DOES NOT EXTEND. If this were the RF shock for example, turning down on the shock collar will not jack any wedge in the car, it will not make it drive tighter, the spring only gets more PRE-LOADED, and confusion in-sues.

    2) When settings are at extremes, then other settings on the car are as well to compensate. Typically when you are out of room to adjust is should be a flag 90% of the time that something else on the car is TOO DOMINANT or simply not the right choice. Good example here is someone running a sprint car with the rear ride height of the car much higher than the front. This is then offset for driving comfort by moving the wing all the way back, running more toe-in than most other racers. super stiff RF spring etc... This racer basically is at the end of the rope doing all they can to keep rear traction when its the extreme chassis rake making them run all the other options to extremes to compensate.

    3) Turning only one collar. We all love the RF spring collar, its easy and simple to understand and generally is the most effective. However if it is turned down or up too much the ride height is also effected. For the RF the weight jacking with the shock collar and ride height work together always to make the car tighter or looser. (IE: more wedge and higher front ride height BOTH make car more rear dominant)
    On the other side with the LR collar, if you turn it down you do put more wedge in the car BUT also raise the rear ride height too. This can make the car turn in better, but drive off tighter, only until the point to where the rear ride height is in good match with the rest of the car. Continue to turn the LR collar down with the intention of wanting more rear bite is only going to raise the rear AND tilt the chassis toward the RF and this will make the car unstable very quickly and frustration occurs.

    Generally it is good to do "one in / one out" when turning shock collars to keep ride heights even BUT still change weight placements.

    -To tighten the front end on entry: Turn down on the RF one turn, Turn out on the LF one turn = Ride height stays equal.
    -To tighten the car on-power off the corner: Turn down on the LR one turn, Turn out on the RR one turn = Ride height stays equal.

    If you find your self putting in a ton of wedge (or taking it away) after starting with the ride heights and front weights even then this is a good time to consider a spring change. Change the spring and then start with ride height and front weight equal again. If then you try different springs without an desired effect, then it may be a good time to consider another chassis option or two then lastly a different tire if the rest of the car is within normal settings (nothing set at the extreme).

    Its only rule of thumb to start ride height and front weight equal! If the track is flat, it is certainly fine to have more LF weight (preferred) or if the track is banked a great deal more RF weight.
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
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