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  1. #81
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    well. doesnt that make me look really smart.
    Martin
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  2. #82
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    Sorry buddy, I wasn't trying to snub you.
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  3. #83
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    oh, its ok. im glad you did. dont wanna waste his time
    Martin
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  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by slash2147 View Post
    Hey nitronaught, im only 13 BUT hear me out on this one. i know alot about cars. My old man's '01 chrysler pt crusier has overheating problems. 1. Check the caddilitic converter. 2. Check the EGR valve this should help. please check these things because i think they might be your answer
    Those were the quick and easy checks.... Both would show performance issues. No performance issues except the overheating... I should be getting a call from the machine shop today to found out which parts are out of spec. So far anything I've put into the engine before I took it to the machine shop is going to be used so only wasted time,,, not money.. Can't afford to do that....

    Fingers crossed... And again thanks everyone... I'll let you know when I do....
    Robin Williams
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  5. #85
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. troutfisher9's Avatar
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    I had an older model Honda Civic way back when that went through water pumps like candy. If I missed it in the thread, my apologies, but Honda water pumps are shaky at best.
    With a purposeful grimace and a terrible sound...

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutfisher9 View Post
    I had an older model Honda Civic way back when that went through water pumps like candy. If I missed it in the thread, my apologies, but Honda water pumps are shaky at best.
    Yup, replaced water pump, timing belt and tensioner,,,, also #1 cylinder is egg shaped according to the machine shop. That is the cylinder closest to the water pump.. Also the cause of the knock.... It will all be better in a couple more days....

    Humm,,,, Now, do I use the 5 tank method to break it in? loll j/k
    Robin Williams
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  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post

    Humm,,,, Now, do I use the 5 tank method to break it in? loll j/k
    No! ........ you have to get a break-in bench for Honda engines

    Glad to hear you have it sorted out man
    Just got the Yukon going and it feels good to have your vehicles running.
    Last edited by 1979chevy.; 07-28-2012 at 09:10 PM.
    Matthew 7:7

  8. #88
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    How to break in a honda engine, by Lubecakes:

    Begin by putting racing stickers on car.
    Paint hood and trunk flat black to simulate carbon fiber.
    Use acetylene torch on springs to achieve proper ride height.
    Grab empty coffee can and cut a 2 inch hole in the bottom.
    Sawzall your old muffler off, and use duct tape and tin foil to install coffee can.
    Maybe you should do the exhaust prior to lowering, because that car is gonna be on the ground!
    Remove left front headlight for extra airflow.
    Buy a new new baseball cap, but keep the brim nice and flat.
    Pull pants down over buttocks and cinch belt up tight.

    Now for the fun part!

    Fire that baby up, hold it to the wood and listen to the sweet mod you just did on the exhaust. Don't worry, the rev limiter should work.
    Now take a rip around the neighborhood to show off your work. Don't be bashful with the loud pedal, EVERYONE wants to hear it.
    Proceed to the nearest main road and begin toying with all the eclipses, evos, and subarus until someone wants to race you....don't worry, they only have 4 cylinders too.
    After you get your doors blown off, tell the officer who so easily caught up with you that the other guy started it.
    Drive home and park the car sideways in your front lawn.

    Break-in complete!
    erbe emaxx 26maxx s27revo 18tmrevo XXL platinum

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by lubecakes View Post
    How to break in a honda engine, by Lubecakes:

    Begin by putting racing stickers on car.
    Paint hood and trunk flat black to simulate carbon fiber.
    Use acetylene torch on springs to achieve proper ride height.
    Grab empty coffee can and cut a 2 inch hole in the bottom.
    Sawzall your old muffler off, and use duct tape and tin foil to install coffee can.
    Maybe you should do the exhaust prior to lowering, because that car is gonna be on the ground!
    Remove left front headlight for extra airflow.
    Buy a new new baseball cap, but keep the brim nice and flat.
    Pull pants down over buttocks and cinch belt up tight.

    Now for the fun part!

    Fire that baby up, hold it to the wood and listen to the sweet mod you just did on the exhaust. Don't worry, the rev limiter should work.
    Now take a rip around the neighborhood to show off your work. Don't be bashful with the loud pedal, EVERYONE wants to hear it.
    Proceed to the nearest main road and begin toying with all the eclipses, evos, and subarus until someone wants to race you....don't worry, they only have 4 cylinders too.
    After you get your doors blown off, tell the officer who so easily caught up with you that the other guy started it.
    Drive home and park the car sideways in your front lawn.

    Break-in complete!
    That post made my day man,
    thanks
    Last edited by Double G; 07-30-2012 at 08:23 AM.
    Matthew 7:7

  10. #90
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lubecakes View Post
    How to break in a honda engine, by Lubecakes:

    Begin by putting racing stickers on car.
    Paint hood and trunk flat black to simulate carbon fiber.
    Use acetylene torch on springs to achieve proper ride height.
    Grab empty coffee can and cut a 2 inch hole in the bottom.
    Sawzall your old muffler off, and use duct tape and tin foil to install coffee can.
    Maybe you should do the exhaust prior to lowering, because that car is gonna be on the ground!
    Remove left front headlight for extra airflow.
    Buy a new new baseball cap, but keep the brim nice and flat.
    Pull pants down over buttocks and cinch belt up tight.

    Now for the fun part!

    Fire that baby up, hold it to the wood and listen to the sweet mod you just did on the exhaust. Don't worry, the rev limiter should work.
    Now take a rip around the neighborhood to show off your work. Don't be bashful with the loud pedal, EVERYONE wants to hear it.
    Proceed to the nearest main road and begin toying with all the eclipses, evos, and subarus until someone wants to race you....don't worry, they only have 4 cylinders too.
    After you get your doors blown off, tell the officer who so easily caught up with you that the other guy started it.
    Drive home and park the car sideways in your front lawn.

    Break-in complete!
    I'm printing this and taking it into the shop... I know ther result of this being read is going to be 5 guys rolling round on the shop floor in tears laughing.....

    Ahh,,, Now to get this thing don and OVER with... :cool
    Robin Williams
    He will be greatly missed...

  11. #91
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    haha!!! Lubecakes that was awesome.

  12. #92
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    Final update

    Picked up the engine from the machine shop, literally too... Thing weighs 100lbs I'm guessing, wrongled into my SUV myself no problem... Machine shop said #1 cylinder was egg shaped. Common issue with this engine. Due to what they call "Oiling" from the head... The egg shaping also caused the pistons wrist pin area to become out of tolerance.... So bored out all 4 to .020, block was cleaned head was decked and so was the block, new conrods, pistons, rings, cam journals needed cleaning up a little. strictly polishing. The crank was fine and it was polished and new bearings... The head was cleaned up, new guides, seats resurfaced, etc. All assembled and wrapped up in plastic... $1730.00
    Installed the motor yesterday, put everything back after a good cleaning,,, the IAC started acting up. The idle would jump up and down and up and down. When you disconnected the throttle positioning sensor it would stop but also fire off a check engine light.... Pulled the throttle body off and removed the IAC, it was full of goo and sticky.... Once I had that taken care of it's running like a champ... Definitely has more torque than before, nothing really noticeable... But it should be good for a long while now....

    Finally!!!!!
    Robin Williams
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  13. #93
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Glad to here it's fixed! I never would have thought rod knock would be part of the problem though...
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  14. #94
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    Sweet. Don't forget to break it in per my instructions!
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  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    Glad to here it's fixed! I never would have thought rod knock would be part of the problem though...
    The #1 piston being ovaled/egg shaped, caused the wrist pin journal of the piston rod to become worn to the point it would allow the rod to catch the block causing the occasional "Rod Knock" sound.
    The #1 cylinder is directly behind the water pump. There was some blowby and that was heating up the water pump which in turn was heating up the coolant as it passed through... Highway driving caused the water pump to become very hot as well as the #1 cylinder, when it came to an idle the water pump became even more hot and that's when the engine would start to overheat...
    Basically it was helping to heat the coolant as it pumped... I'm told by a few builders this has happened on a few engines and as long as the water pump is internal, if the cylinder that is directly behind it goes egg shaped it will happen in time...

    Either way, it's running perfectly. Starts up right away, doesn't get anywhere near hot. All is good.

    OH, and trust me. I've had 2 Honda mechanics look at it, my other buddy who owns the mechanics shop AND myself... There's no way this would have been found without pulling the motor and tearing things down....

    Should be good for another 150,000 miles now...
    Robin Williams
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  16. #96
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    How to break in a honda engine, by Lubecakes:

    Begin by putting racing stickers on car.
    Paint hood and trunk flat black to simulate carbon fiber.
    Use acetylene torch on springs to achieve proper ride height.
    Grab empty coffee can and cut a 2 inch hole in the bottom.
    Sawzall your old muffler off, and use duct tape and tin foil to install coffee can.
    Maybe you should do the exhaust prior to lowering, because that car is gonna be on the ground!
    Remove left front headlight for extra airflow.
    Buy a new new baseball cap, but keep the brim nice and flat.
    Pull pants down over buttocks and cinch belt up tight.

    Now for the fun part!

    Fire that baby up, hold it to the wood and listen to the sweet mod you just did on the exhaust. Don't worry, the rev limiter should work.
    Now take a rip around the neighborhood to show off your work. Don't be bashful with the loud pedal, EVERYONE wants to hear it.
    Proceed to the nearest main road and begin toying with all the eclipses, evos, and subarus until someone wants to race you....don't worry, they only have 4 cylinders too.
    After you get your doors blown off, tell the officer who so easily caught up with you that the other guy started it.
    Drive home and park the car sideways in your front lawn.

    Break-in complete!
    That made my day! PERFECTLY discribes the average ricer! I wish I could fit that in to my signiture... LOL!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  17. #97
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    ive seen them ran with no fluid at all basically air cooled and haven't stopped yet but out of the 3 ive seen like that 2 were 1.5
    Man if i could fly..........

  18. #98
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    with out reading all the posts im a licensed tech im thinking water pump ? blocked rad or heater core? rats or mice may have eaten wires at the temp sensor or computer(happend to me) other wise what could it be???ever added any leak stuff to the rad that could do it??? falty fan could do it also pm me if you want
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  19. #99
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    ....reading all the posts might have influenced your response. I think he is currently working on sourcing the best looking coffee can to begin proper break-in procedures....


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  20. #100
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    And here I go back again... 14 months after the rebuild and the problem re-appears.
    Engine has 20,000 on it now. Fully rebuilt, new pistons, valves valve guides, head has been cleared up, new conrods, new heat and tranny sensors (factory sensors), new radiator, cap, hoses, fan, fan relays, water pump, timing belt, bored .020.
    New Radiator
    New Factory temp sensors (plural)
    New Fan
    New Fan relays (2 of them)

    Water pump was replaced when engine was rebuilt.
    Sucked down the coolant system for any trapped air.
    Timing at 12 degrees BTDC
    Start wonderful, idles smooth.
    New tranmission


    I've replaced EVERYTHING!!!!!!!! This this this Gremlin is driving me and 4 other mechanics out the window!!!!!!!


    The ONLY thing I can think of the possibly the Catalytic Converter.... But I don't want to dump $200.00 only to find out that's ot the problem..

    Anyone know if there is a way to test the catalytic and see if it the culprit to my overheating.... I've over $3,000.00 into all of this.... Only reason why is it's a 1 owner car and I've maintained it very well..

    Needless to say the wife is mad as all get out, I'm over it, my mechanic buddies have had it too.

    Any ideas? The car has 180,000 miles on it but rebuilt engine AND tranny as well as everything else under the sun...

    1998 Civic LX 1.6l d16y engine.
    Robin Williams
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  21. #101
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    Id say water punp also sounds like the impeller is fine at higher speeds but when low speed sounds like it is getting like clogged or something thats what i think.
    Edit nvm i didnt see you figured it out.

  22. #102
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Is it possible to "test pipe" the cat?
    I've cut out a cat or two and replaced them with a section of pipe to eliminate them from the equation before.

    Depending on the design, you may be able to remove it and visually look inside of it too.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  23. #103
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Unfortauntely these cars, the dang catalytic is part of the exhaust manifold... That's a $300.00 test....

    Hey Wakesurfer, When the engine was rebuilt, new water pump and an entirely new cooling system hoses, sensors, radiator, radiator cap.... All done. I thought it could be a blockage but after the rebuild,,, Noway,,,, the block is as clean as it was new. The head too.

    I'm thinking catalytic, but I sure would hate to spend that kind of money and find out it's not the problem.... Which is something I'm very tired of doing....

    So far the engine has been out 2 times. I know the timing belt is right cause she idles nice and smooth, starts up first time every time, performance is normal....

    I'm going to try getting my Raytek IR temp guage and let the gauge on the car get hot and then check to see if maybe it's not telling the truth? Doubt it with the way it is reacting though.

    At this point,,, I'm ready to put a giant rubber band in the darn thing and wind it up to get to work!!!!!
    NN
    Robin Williams
    He will be greatly missed...

  24. #104
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    I had 1999 f150 with similar issues. ended up being a small head gasket leak. that gasket would seat itself once the truck got hot. got rid of the truck before it got much worse.

  25. #105
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tdiggity313 View Post
    I had 1999 f150 with similar issues. ended up being a small head gasket leak. that gasket would seat itself once the truck got hot. got rid of the truck before it got much worse.
    Pulled the head, it's not the gasket. Also no coolant is being lost, no white smoke out the tailpipe.

    This one is NOT an EASY one.... Almost ready to just cut my losses after $3000.00 put into it...
    Robin Williams
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  26. #106
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Oh and since the engine was rebuilt 20,000 miles ago and this started back up I pulled the motor AGAIN, took it over to my friends machine shop, checked the head for being even and not warped, all surfaces were well within facotry tolerances. checked rods, cylinders, crank, bearings, , replaced the impeller while it was there. Checked valve clearance on the cams.
    On having to pull the motor I went ahead and had my tranny rebuilt. Good thing too, 3 busted springs in the valve body,, How in the world this thing was working 1/2 decent is beyond me.

    The only thing I can think of is the catalytic converter is causing restrictions at low RPMs and after being on the highway it is not allowing the hot gases to dissipate...

    At this point I'd really hate to buy a $400.00 catalytic converter (built as one piece with the exhaust manifold) only to test a theory of what the problem MIGHT be... *sigh*

    This was supposed to be my sons car, hence all the work in it.... It's a 1 owner car and I've maintained th dang thing maticulously.... Man is this something that just torques my bolts!!!!!

    Anyone come up with an epiphany on this, feel free to chime in. I may be frustrated as all get out, but I've too much in this thing to quit now!!!
    Robin Williams
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  27. #107
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    I know the pain of these Hondas , my head gaskets went out and at the same time so did my transmission! It was a crazy situation, and scared me to death. Haha being the only car I had at the moment, the repairs weren't cheap.

  28. #108
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    You're too deep in to pull out now mate. It really does sound like a cat so I guess you're going to have to bite the bullet and buy one.. If everything else that could cause the problem has been replaced then there's only one thing left..


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  29. #109
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    Same my dad bought me a 98 civic that the guy though had a blown gasket and didnt want to spend much money and was gonna junk it so my dad bought it for 400$ replaced the heater hose and now he drives it to work everyday the best thing is it was stolen and got it back too. At this point id say the cat is the next step to look into as you looked at everything else.

  30. #110
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    I'm having to agree the only thing left is the catalytic... When I pulled the motor with the problem reoccuring, The head gasket WAS bad between cylinders 2 and 3, but the head has been re-decked and the block was checked, it was as flat as flat can be. All internals were pulled, the block was re-washed/boiled and everything was gone over all again....

    THe reason why the head gasket went in 20,000 miles was the machine op did not replace the head bolts and used the old ones... They admitted to it and I know the guys, they took care of all mentioned at no charge... OF coarse I had to pull the motor again... These transverse engines are a pain even if they only weigh about 120 lbs for the long block...

    I wonder if I could test the emissions if I coul detect a bad cat... You know those old Sun Analyzers? THey had a piece you put in the tailpipe and it checked your exhaust emissions...
    Robin Williams
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  31. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    Unfortauntely these cars, the dang catalytic is part of the exhaust manifold... That's a $300.00 test....

    Hey Wakesurfer, When the engine was rebuilt, new water pump and an entirely new cooling system hoses, sensors, radiator, radiator cap.... All done. I thought it could be a blockage but after the rebuild,,, Noway,,,, the block is as clean as it was new. The head too.

    I'm thinking catalytic, but I sure would hate to spend that kind of money and find out it's not the problem.... Which is something I'm very tired of doing....

    So far the engine has been out 2 times. I know the timing belt is right cause she idles nice and smooth, starts up first time every time, performance is normal....

    I'm going to try getting my Raytek IR temp guage and let the gauge on the car get hot and then check to see if maybe it's not telling the truth? Doubt it with the way it is reacting though.

    At this point,,, I'm ready to put a giant rubber band in the darn thing and wind it up to get to work!!!!!
    NN
    If the catalytic converter was over heating you would know it by now. If it was overheating you would have a significant loss in power because the inverter would actual melt together and reduce exhaust flow. If it's getting to hot to begin with you might want to check to see if the car is running rich.

  32. #112
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    Is the car modified? Or is there a fan that should be running? My dads firebird did the same thing. After he modified it the radiator wasn't big enough to deal with the engine when he was in traffic at stop signs.

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  33. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimdog View Post
    Is the car modified? Or is there a fan that should be running? My dads firebird did the same thing. After he modified it the radiator wasn't big enough to deal with the engine when he was in traffic at stop signs.

    Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
    Not modified and I put a test light on the fan, also if I need to feel the fan I can jut open the drivers door and put my hand under the car, nice hot air flowing from the hood and the A.C off!! Also when the temps are up I've popped the hood and the fan is running, radiator full of coolant and the coolant is flowing. I've also had a Rayk temp gin checking both the intake water temps and the water temps coming out of the head. They are reflecting what the gauge on the dash is... Which was one thing I was kind of hoping for :sad:
    Robin Williams
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  34. #114
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    Spent time and verified it is not my gauges lying to me again. Just to keep my sanity. Nope the Raytek is showing temps accurate to the gauge on the outgoing side of the coolant....

    The problem is definitely still with this engine. The builder is going to have it while still in the car, the problem shows up very easily now, all you have to do is go around the block with the engine in secnd gear and maintain rpms between 2-3000 rpms and it begins it's overheating...

    If this engine has to be pulled 1 more time, I can assure you the same engine is NOT going back in.... He can take that long block and get me another..... This time maybe a JDM SOHC non VTEC... Direct replacement and ODB2... VTEC would be a nightmare.


    I'm thinking there is a blockage in the water jacket of the block or the head. And I think it's between cylinders 2 and 3 where the gasket damage was found originally on the head.....

    Either way,,, since it's been over 12 months.... I think I'm up the creek on this one... I'm not one to give up but sooner or later I have to know when and if I should...

    Why just not buy another car... If I could afford to I would. I'm just doing what I can and this time I'm at the losing end... Ugh!



    I don't want to spend one more dime.... IF it wasn't for my buddy the labor costs at this point,,, I could bought another car by now. Ugh!!!!
    Last edited by Nitronaught; 02-10-2014 at 08:52 AM.
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  35. #115
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Wow, sounds like a horror story! Maybe this is your excuse to get a better, simpler, more reliable vintage muscle car.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  36. #116
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    There are times when us simple people would just throw away a car and get a new one, and that is when it it requires a rebuild....... I rebuilt my ford ranger not too long ago. I did it with the engine in so it was a pain. I ran it hot and cracked a head. I also ended up replacing the water pump and timing chain cover cause i was having water in my oil like crazy. I or my family has never owned a honda long enough to give us problems though so i am left without giving advice.

    It's been at least 10 years since we even thought about buying a honda, we bought a nissan instead........ Big mistake!!! Now we have an 03 nissan murano lemon sitting in our yard with a bad engine. And i surely don't feel like working on that, especially since i just rebuilt my truck less than a month ago.
    Revo 2.5 upgraded to 3.3.

  37. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    Wow, sounds like a horror story! Maybe this is your excuse to get a better, simpler, more reliable vintage muscle car.
    Well, actually it blows that idea out of the water since this was going to end up being my sons daily driver for college....

    I mean seriously,,, what did you think I was going to be getting to work in? A goped? lol

    Ah,, trying to laugh at it but the wallet is not laughing and the wife isn't either...
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  38. #118
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    What the rest of the exhaust system like?
    Also do have any idea as to the type of cat it has?
    If it's the honey comb type you might be able to use a flash light to look trough it if the flange is close enough.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  39. #119
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    What the rest of the exhaust system like?
    Also do have any idea as to the type of cat it has?
    If it's the honey comb type you might be able to use a flash light to look trough it if the flange is close enough.
    The D16Y has a cat/manifold combo... Lovely $400.00 item..

    Guess what I found... An old Sun Analyzer... It has a line you shove up the tailpipe and it measures your exhaust emissions, something you just can't find anymore down here... Anyways... The emissions are dead on, extemely clean. Also used My Raytek IR temp gauge, has the laser tageting. next to no big temp variances from the manifold to the cat... Often the Cat would be pretty hot when the engine is overheating and it's ruled out... I thought the same...

    Now, I got the Machine shop, who I've used many times, told him all this and he said bring the car by... He called could no re-create the condition so my friend who has his own mechanic shop and been helping me with this dropped by and re-created the problem..
    The builder scratched his head, pulled the head, AGAIN, admitted there's SOMETHING wrong, but it's not the head, head gasket is not showing signs of blowby, but it's new. He's now checking the block to make sure it's decked properly..

    The place I had rebuild my engine, been there for 30 yrs, so he's really being stand up about this even though the motor didn't show this until after 2 months out of warranty.... But it's been such a pain... (You know I'm just keeping it clean here)

    The only thing I can think of is either the block is not decked properly and I'm getting bypass gasses into the the cooling passages of the block.

    But then, and I remember myself helping out with an engine once, cracked block internally viewable with a dye usually.....

    If it's the block I'm going to be fuming, part of any rebuild is checkiong the block out properly, doing a check for cracks takes minutes on a 4 banger.

    Right now I'm ready to just let him fix the motor and NOT install it. I'll sell it and drop in a 45,000 mile, used JDM D16 1.6l SOHC motor for about $600.00. It has about 40 hp more and direct drop in. Includes intake and exhaust manifolds and a 90 day warranty.
    Last edited by Nitronaught; 02-15-2014 at 02:29 PM.
    Robin Williams
    He will be greatly missed...

  40. #120
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Yup that's a makes you want to scream deal there, hope they find it.
    I'd be dropin the $600 JDM D16 1.6l SOHC into it & call it a day.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

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