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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by lubecakes View Post
    Straight coolant can cool an engine, but not very well. It may be excessively hot where you live compared to days gone by and the engine is getting older, water pump included.
    Could also be unusually high humidity. Combined with the 100% coolant

  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    What kind of coolant are you using? Reason I ask is because Honda and many other O.E.M. coolants are not supposed to be diluted.

  3. #43
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Fan, sounds like it's not running fast enough to pull enough cool air through the radiator while sitting at the light.

    Maybe the a/c core fins are on the clogged side not allowing enough air flow while stopped?
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

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  4. #44
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    I'm going to dump 50 % of the coolant and see what happens, I'm going to try it on my lunch break since I'm carrying 2 gallons of bottled water with me.....

    It's always been very cool running engine even with 100% coolant,,, and man you should see the inside of this cooling system since I've never used water.... It looks as good as new can look.... I guess swapping out 1/2 a gallon of coolants IS a little easier than replacing the water pump..... After that,,,,, if this doesn't do it, I'll just get that pump swapped out and do the timing belt.... Just get that over with..... It's almost due anyways....

    Wildman,,, dude the radiator sits besides the A/C and I've replaced the fan with a new one which was my first thought, cheap and easy job...... It's coming on properly and when it should.... Gremlins!!!!!!
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  5. #45
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    In my experience, if it gets hot at highway speeds, it is the radiator. If it gets hot low speeds and idle it is in the water pump. You could have the impeller spining on the shaft, or the vanes wore down. IMHO it is the water pump. I hope you get it figured out, and the best of luck to you.
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  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post

    Wildman,,, dude the radiator sits besides the A/C and I've replaced the fan with a new one which was my first thought, cheap and easy job...... It's coming on properly and when it should.... Gremlins!!!!!!
    Hey no need to get contrary. Hope you can figure it out, and hopefully it won't be extremely high.
    Matthew 7:7

  7. #47
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    Just trade it off...let the next guy worry with that mess.
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  8. #48
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    Since the only thing you haven't checked is the WP (I read all post) I would due it. I have seen were the fins have wore down and there was never a leak or anyother issue but an over heating issue. The other thing I didn't see though was what the temp was, I have seen people worry about overheating when it was working notmal.
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  9. #49
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    Good point, my '98 monte's temp guage reads about 1/4th of the way up at 195, and about 2/3 at 225. The guages are not accurate on some cars.
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  10. #50
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    How'd it go NN? Got 'er figured out?
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  11. #51
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    Any updates?
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  12. #52
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    Maybe he's been livin' it up all weekend and we'll hear from him today.
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  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by lubecakes View Post
    How'd it go NN? Got 'er figured out?
    I did try dumping out some of the pure radiator fluid and adding in water.... It actually got hotter faster....

    IMHO, the only thing that has not been fully ruled out is the water pump..... Since I change my Timing gear every 86,000 miles and it's just 10,000 miles away from that.... I'm going to take care of the timing belt AND dump a new water pump in....

    I took a break this weekend, went to visit some family and left the Honda and the headache going with it at home.......

    I'm going to start on the job tonight as I have to do this in the driveway. Should have it all together and done by Wednesday.
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  14. #54
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    check antifreezer or any coolant
    All I need now is to set a new lap record.

  15. #55
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    You sure you didn't introduce some air into the system? My Z ran cooler after I dumped and flushed out whatever thick green garbage was in it, but I had to bleed it.
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  16. #56
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    Are you the original owner of the car and do you know what it's history was prior to purchase if it was used?
    Aw, Biscuits!

  17. #57
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    I had a similiar problem with our Elantra (2001 170k miles) . The temp would creep up to hot at extended idle in traffic in summer. We would loose cabin heat in the same traffic conditions in winter. Simple revving/idle up of the motor (2500 for 5-10 seconds ) would solve the problems.

    I read through all the post and a lot of people mentioned the water pump. That was our culprit. We always changed the water pump with the timing belt as your did as it was right there.

    It end up being the impeller. Appeared that 1/2 of the blades had "worn" down. Basically made the water pump ineffective at idle. OE waterpump and a gates belt/idler kit later problems solved.
    Last edited by OCD RC; 07-10-2012 at 02:14 AM.
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  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by OCD RC View Post
    I had a similiar problem with our Elantra (2001 170k miles) . The temp would creep up to hot at extended idle in traffic in summer. We would loose cabin heat in the same traffic conditions in winter. Simple revving/idle up of the motor (2500 for 5-10 seconds ) would solve the problems.

    I read through all the post and a lot of people mentioned the water pump. That was our culprit. We always changed the water pump with the timing belt as your did as it was right there.

    It end up being the impeller. Appeared that 1/2 of the blades had "worn" down. Basically made the water pump ineffective at idle. OE waterpump and a gates belt/idler kit later problems solved.
    I've got everything off, the timing belt cover, timing belt, tensioner but did not get the water pump off. I wasn't able to start on it till about 7 pm last night finished up about 12:30 and had to be up at 5 this morning so..... The drama continues....

    I've got parts ordered, Gates belts (timing and outside belt), Honda tensioner, pump, and gaskets as well from Honda.

    I'll compare impellers and see as soon as I can get it finished with tear down.... I was ticked I didn't have enough time or steam left after working all day to get that bugger out.... Good news though, my buddy's shop may have an open lift tonight, it's about 12 blocks from my house so pulling it over there is nothing. The use of lifts and all the tools I could ever need sure makes it easier.....

    Hopefully I will get a call this afternoon and I can slide out of work to get this over with.... Otherwise it's just going to be another loooong day....
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  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    NN I have found the solution to your cars issues!



    Gotta show those Gremlins who's Boss!
    Hope you do get you car's problem solved tho, I just figured this would give something to smile about!
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  20. #60
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    Any updates?


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  21. #61
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    Yup Wildman,,,, That maybe my NEXT step......

    Good thing I pulled the timing belt cover,,, darn thing had stretched! Honda says 100,000 miles in the book.... It's got 76,000 on it and I'm sure no way it would never make 100,000.... But it did not jump any teeth and all the timing marks are dead on.

    Now for that water pump... I noticed a little bit of seepage coming from the shaft. After pulling the water pump, the impellers look fine,,,,,, put that DARN THING in a vice, tried to see if the impeller had ANY slippage..... NONE......

    I also found my balancer to look like it is starting to crack... REPLACED.

    So, I'm slapping it all back together... I'll know better by Monday if this did the trick... There's only 1 more place to go,,,, head and head gasket.... Even if that's the problem, that timing belt definitely needed to get out of there.....

    I've been taking care of my own cars since I was 16, heck even before that and I'm 48 now.... This one takes the Nitronaught Bewildered Award!!!!!!!
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  22. #62
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    Not changing the pump?
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  23. #63
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Just my $0.02, but if it has a timing belt that puppy is getting pulled at 50k miles, not snowballs chance in a hot oven is a timing belt gonna last to 100K miles, that's just beggin for trouble.

    Hope it fixes the issue.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

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  24. #64
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    This might sound like a stupid suggestion, but it's given me overheating problems on an older Toyota once.

    The EGR valve

    A good functioning EGR valve actually makes the exhaust gases cooler, effectively lowering the operating temp of the engine. If it fails and sticks closed, the heat will build and you may or may not notice a difference in the way it runs. Heck it might run better with it stuck closed, lol.
    fix, run, break, repeat

  25. #65
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    ......But would also have a code for an egr valve.
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  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by lubecakes View Post
    ......But would also have a code for an egr valve.
    not always

    I've seen EGR valves, O2 sensors, and an AFM go bad (on different vehicles) and no check engine light or code at all
    fix, run, break, repeat

  27. #67
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    The only way a code could not show on an obd 2 car is if the rediness monitors haven't set yet, or the computer needs to see a fault more than once for that particular item.
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  28. #68
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    had the same problem with my Honda, turn out to be the water pump.
    Norfolk and good!!!!!!

  29. #69
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    Are you sure your bleeding all the air outta the system? Newer cars the engine is higher than the radiator, most cars have a bleeder screw, the ones that don't i loosen the top radiator hose

  30. #70
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    I had to back my wife's old '07 grand prix down a steep hill in our yard just to bleed the heater circuit once.
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  31. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by raw111 View Post
    Are you sure your bleeding all the air outta the system? Newer cars the engine is higher than the radiator, most cars have a bleeder screw, the ones that don't i loosen the top radiator hose
    I'm usinf a profesional system that sucks down the entire coolant system then the vacume sucks in the radiator fluid....

    I'm sure. Done it 3 times already...

    Got everything together including new timing belt, water pump, fired her up and took it out for a test run.....

    "Same problem still exists"...

    But then A clue!!! while on the lift and the engine running, you hit the gas and you hear a "Rod Knock"..

    WE pulled the oil pan and #3 crank bearing is shot and there's a little play in the wrist pin.... Further inspections shows a tiny tiny crack in the block.......

    Needless to say, time for a new engine. I can get a new engine w/90 day warranty on it for less then it's goint to take me to fix this one......

    I normally do not curse,,,,,,,,, it's extremely rare,,,,,, NOT TODAY!!!!!!!!!
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  32. #72
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    Caused by overheating lol.
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  33. #73
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Well that stinks, but better then it failing while going down the road & getting stranded.

    And after the new engine is in remember to spray the entire contents of the can liberally in all areas of the engine bay to keep the Gremlins out this time!
    Last edited by Wildman4910; 07-19-2012 at 03:10 AM.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

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  34. #74
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lubecakes View Post
    Caused by overheating lol.
    Actually lubecakes I've never let it get THAT hot.... I'm very attentive to my guages even if they have the stupid signs on them instead of numbers.......

    I took the motor over to a very reliable machine shop... It wasn't a crack in the block but some scoring near the bottom of the cylinder caused by the bearing journal on the crank wearing enough to cause the conrod to knock.... SO I lucked out......

    All parts are out, and now cleaned. Now they are measuring for tolerances to see what is needed to put it back together and how much it's going to hurt the wallet....

    Oh,,, and it comes with a 1 yr or 20,000 mile warranty..... I know this shop real well... They do excellent work... But being a family of 4 and 1 car is no fun..... Seems I'm working all day and doing errands all night.... loll

    I'll keep you all posted...... Considering how well maintained this car is, for the pirce I'm putting into it I could not get a car with a warranty on the engine like this, the brakes are new all around (did them myself), new tires about 4 months ago, new alternator last year, A/C cold as an Eskimo would like.....
    GO figure..... But what a pain.....
    Robin Williams
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  35. #75
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    trade the car off- problem solved.

  36. #76
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    You're way better off fixing the car, however if it were me I'd be dropping in a junkyard engine that was built by Honda. I paid 400 bucks for a gm 3.8 v6 4 years ago and she's still got a whole lotta life left in her.
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  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by lubecakes View Post
    You're way better off fixing the car, however if it were me I'd be dropping in a junkyard engine that was built by Honda. I paid 400 bucks for a gm 3.8 v6 4 years ago and she's still got a whole lotta life left in her.
    Went looking that route, You know with the American cars, I found plenty, the Honda engines,,,, OMG I never seen so many scam shop in a day.... I found D16's with VTech heads (they don't work well like that) was trying to find a JDM, has about 40 more H.P. but most the shops down here that I could find aren't going to back up the engine with any warranty and looked more like chop shops......


    Thanks Guys for your input and sharing the stress..... And trust me,,, when it's summer time, 2 teenagers and a mom with no vehicle.... There's just a wee bit of stress going on.....

    Plus, How do I know the engine I'm picking up doesn't have worse problems than mine...... I know that motor has NEVER been over Rev'd, never missed an oil change, tranny flush and stuck to the factory service requirements... I'ts never been wrecked either.... I am planning on passing this car down to my eldest who will be 16 soon.... I've known the machine shop I'm using since the days I was running Pro Stock drag racing with my 74 Duster and my 75 Camaro. They do excellent work so I'm not worried... OK maybe for having to pay for it,,,, that's life.... Hope to hear something soon.....
    Robin Williams
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  38. #78
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    Yeah you're still going a pretty good route considering you caught the damage early. Electronically controlled engines cannot be over-revved, but you make a good point. I listened to my engine run proir to removal from the donor
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  39. #79
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    Hey nitronaught, im only 13 BUT hear me out on this one. i know alot about cars. My old man's '01 chrysler pt crusier has overheating problems. 1. Check the caddilitic converter. 2. Check the EGR valve this should help. please check these things because i think they might be your answer
    Martin
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  40. #80
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    The converter would cause a loss of power and the exhaust would be super quiet.

    An egr valve will not cause overheating.
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