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  1. #1
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    Done with this cheap plastic!!!!

    I just broke an outer yolk for the 3rd time, fine i fixed it not even 20 minutes ago and now the inner yold breaks for the 4th time!!!! REALLY!!! Im so done having to repair these stupid things man!! Are there any other alternatives to this problem?!? Yes im FURIOUS Right now as you can tell, and no im not a noob, i know what im doing.
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  2. #2
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    This probably has been suggested before but loosen the slipper? also what motor combo are you running?
    Best thing you can do is calm down and find a solution to the problem by either adjusting your driving style and/or clutch or alternatively upgrading to metal dogbones
    Does more $ = More fun?
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  3. #3
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    You got lots of good suggestions last time you posted a thread on this. You can use the set up out of the Slash/Stampede 4x4, you can get the steel output yokes, or you can go with an after market CVD.

    I still think there is something wrong in your set up someplace or you are using a very abusive driving style to tear the stock yokes up that fast. I cant remember the last time I tore up a yoke and my shafts and yoke are 100% stock.
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  4. #4
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    I replaced mine with the steel yokes but that was just for "show" my plastic ones never broke on me...i agree, you may wanna check on your setup

  5. #5
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    i have a slash thicker driveshaft on one side and the other side is all stock, the stock side keeps breaking and occasionally an inner yolk will break in the slash driveshaft side, im running stock gearing stock motor and esc, stampede tires.
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  6. #6
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    can i find these cvd's on amazon.com? wait is this what i need?

    http://www.amazon.com/MIP-C-CVD-Stam...l+cvds+rustler
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  7. #7
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    iv had issues with the stock shafts and yolks breaking as well, they just wear out faster than id like. the hole that the metel pins go threw wollow out then break. i upgraded to the slahs/stampeed rear 4x4 HD shafts that come with yolks ect already attached. there starting to show a little wear but there def beefier than stock and might be a good choice for you. Mip makes steel CDV kit that iv heard good things about, i plan on tryn them out if/when these HD shafts wear out.

  8. #8
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    Yeah i think im going to go ahead and order these MIP ones tomorrow
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  9. #9
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    I run metal yolks stock inner driveshaft and HD outer driveshaft. Hasn't broken yet and I run it pretty hard with 2.8 trenchers on 19/86 gearing with 3800kv on 3s lipo.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by falconsare5@yahoo.com View Post
    i have a slash thicker driveshaft on one side and the other side is all stock, the stock side keeps breaking and occasionally an inner yolk will break in the slash driveshaft side, im running stock gearing stock motor and esc, stampede tires.
    Why are you running uneven driveline? Running a heavier rotating mass on one side is probably a big part of your problem with breaking parts on the 'weak' side.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    Why are you running uneven driveline? Running a heavier rotating mass on one side is probably a big part of your problem with breaking parts on the 'weak' side.
    Yeah Im going to have to just order the steel driveshafts tomorrow and not have to worry about breaking them ever again. Sweet!
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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Didn't you have a different thread about this same thing recently? I seem to remember everybody recommending either the 4x4 HD shafts and/or steel outputs. You can't really complain if you're still replacing your drive line with the same parts that keep failing on you.

    I'm with Dad on this one. True, I've had issues with the stock outputs in the past. But you've probably went through more of them on one vehicle in a short time than I've done in several years on multiple vehicles. Something is either wrong with your setup or you're abusing the truck.

  13. #13
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    I would do some research on the MIP drive shafts you linked above before you go and order them. Let's just MIP's track record with Traxxas vehicles has not always been the best.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Didn't you have a different thread about this same thing recently? I seem to remember everybody recommending either the 4x4 HD shafts and/or steel outputs. You can't really complain if you're still replacing your drive line with the same parts that keep failing on you.



    I'm with Dad on this one. True, I've had issues with the stock outputs in the past. But you've probably went through more of them on one vehicle in a short time than I've done in several years on multiple vehicles. Something is either wrong with your setup or you're abusing the truck.
    Not abusing the truck, Run up and down street, occasionally on grass for 30 seconds at a time, Didn't think i would have to upgrade thought traxxas could get it right the first time, apparently not, and on the MIP's ypu guys wouldn't recommend them? If not is there any others that are better? Dont really want to get just the steel yolk and hd 4x4 driveshafts, just want steel driveshafts all around that wont have to worry about breaking ever again.
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  15. #15
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Didn't think i would have to upgrade thought traxxas could get it right the first time, apparently not,
    My Rusty after 4+ years still runs fine on stock shafts so in my book they got it right.

    just want steel driveshafts all around that wont have to worry about breaking ever again.
    I urge you again to do some research, I think you are gong to be disappointed if you think buying steel shafts is just going to magically eliminate drive line issues.
    BlindMan Racing
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    My Rusty after 4+ years still runs fine on stock shafts so in my book they got it right.



    I urge you again to do some research, I think you are gong to be disappointed if you think buying steel shafts is just going to magically eliminate drive line issues.
    Which steel driveshafts would you recommend then? And how could steel driveshafts break in the first place?
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  17. #17
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by falconsare5@yahoo.com View Post
    Which steel driveshafts would you recommend then? And how could steel driveshafts break in the first place?
    I dont recommend any steel shafts as I have seen issues with most if not all of them. They bend or the pins dont stay in or the drive cups have issues,,,different ones have different issues.

    Not sure what your issue is but my gut feeling is there is something in the set up causing the issue. Could be you have the truck sitting too high making the shafts run at an angle or a bind someplace, or the fact you have miss matched shafts from one side to the other. I would use either the stock or 4x4 shafts and work on finding what is making them break. If there is an issue as I suspect you will only damage whatever steel shaft you buy and then be even madder as you will be out more $$$$
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  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I had some issues breaking driveshaft after driveshaft for about a month. In the end it was my fault. I had too many shims (or the wrong, thicker shims shims) on my rear axle at the bearing carrier. It was frustrating because the axles would only last a min or 2. They were snapping, twisting like pretzels, and the yokes would twist and pop apart on the first pull of the trigger. All on 2s.


    Sounds just like your problem...

    Calm down, and go over everything again.

    1 running 2 different mass axles in the back is prob your problem
    2 incorrect shims on the axle could be your problem
    3 inserting the ujoints without using traxxas special tool for the job (comes with the truck) could be your problem... if using some other tool, you could be bending the "ears" of the yokes while installing them, making them a little wider than normal and they will twist pop and break. Traxxas has gotten it right for 10s of thousands of trucks.

    Getting upset and throwing money at the problem will just make you more angry in the end.

    I have to abuse my truck (to keep up lol)at the track on carpet with a locked slipper and a powerful 4 pole system and my 4x4 axles are going strong with no ovaling or twisting. Rebuild that rear driveline evenly with the 4x4 axles on both sides and shim the axles correctly.

    On AbSoLooT1's thread in the pede forum, he goes into detail about the shims and the correct size shims for the job. Check out that thread and quit pulling your hair out...

    My problem disappeared as soon as I got the correct shims on and used traxxas tool instead of my needle nose pliers. The axle was shimmed too tight(no play at all), and I was spreading the ears on the yokes while installing them. I got the stock axles to work again after that.

    A couple of months later I rebuilt the driveline and added the 4x4 axles. I still use the stockers in my kids slash mt and they work fine.
    Last edited by rag6; 07-02-2012 at 06:37 PM.
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  19. #19
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    Something else must be wrong, because people run mamba 2200kv with slash 4wd HD driveshafts. I use slash 4wd HD shafts and im running up and down the street as well, 3s, they hold up pretty well. Even with steel shafts people have issues like unpinning etc.

    At the end of the day, traxxas 6852X is the best driveshaft upgrade you can get for the rustler, even if they could brake..

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttThree View Post
    Something else must be wrong, because people run mamba 2200kv with slash 4wd HD driveshafts. I use slash 4wd HD shafts and im running up and down the street as well, 3s, they hold up pretty well. Even with steel shafts people have issues like unpinning etc.

    At the end of the day, traxxas 6852X is the best driveshaft upgrade you can get for the rustler, even if they could brake..
    Do i use a special output yolk with the 4x4 shafts as well? mine as well just het the steel yolks i guess.
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  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Just use the ones that come with the 4x4 axle assembly, there are no steel yokes avail for those as they are not needed.
    LETS GO PENS!!!!

  22. #22
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    The steel inner yolks? yes there are, and they prevent from breakages http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846
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  23. #23
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    Well again I will state that I have used steel yolks with stock inner and HD outer . . They are the same fit just the joints are thicker on the HD ones. There is NO play what so ever in the spline connecting stock to HD. I would use the full HD setup but I bought the Steel ones long before I broke the outer joints and would hate to see a $20 part not being used. . .

    But again That's just me
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  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I have them right here. the steel yokes uni joint is too small to put on the 4wd plastic ears. It will just fall out, it is right here in front of me. Traxxas makes 1 set of steel outputs, and they only fit the 2wd plastic axles...

    Falcon, the outputs you linked to are for the 2wd only...
    LETS GO PENS!!!!

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by falconsare5@yahoo.com View Post
    Which steel driveshafts would you recommend then? And how could steel driveshafts break in the first place?
    Here's my experience with MIP cvd shafts on a Traxxas truck:






    This was the first race with brand new shafts. I put the stock slider shafts back on with a pair of steel outputs and never had an issue for the rest of the season.. I don't know if MIP ever changed the cvd's , but I'm guessing no. And I have MIP cvd's on at least three other non-Traxxas vehicles right now and have zero issues with them. Seems like Traxxas and MIP cvd's don't mix for some reason. There used to be tons of other threads on this forum and most people were shearing the axles at the exact same spot within the first couple runs.

  26. #26
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    I'm still new to this sport. I've had my rustler a couple of months now but have not had any problems breaking the drive-shafts or yokes.

    Even when I hit a curb going about 45-50 mph and the rear end exploded. I found the driveshafts and other pieces scattered around the lot. I had to replace the A-arms and the rear carriers but everything else was cool including the drive-shafts and yokes.

    I'm just saying there is something you are overlooking in your setup. Probably the two different drive shafts you're running. I think people forget these cars are little high performance machines and you can't just throw random parts on it and expect to not have any problems. You wouldnt put two different sized axles on a vette so...

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Here's my experience with MIP cvd shafts on a Traxxas truck:






    This was the first race with brand new shafts. I put the stock slider shafts back on with a pair of steel outputs and never had an issue for the rest of the season.. I don't know if MIP ever changed the cvd's , but I'm guessing no. And I have MIP cvd's on at least three other non-Traxxas vehicles right now and have zero issues with them. Seems like Traxxas and MIP cvd's don't mix for some reason. There used to be tons of other threads on this forum and most people were shearing the axles at the exact same spot within the first couple runs.
    Are those proline hole shots you got on there? lol i have the same.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by clmarek1 View Post
    I'm still new to this sport. I've had my rustler a couple of months now but have not had any problems breaking the drive-shafts or yokes.

    Even when I hit a curb going about 45-50 mph and the rear end exploded. I found the driveshafts and other pieces scattered around the lot. I had to replace the A-arms and the rear carriers but everything else was cool including the drive-shafts and yokes.

    I'm just saying there is something you are overlooking in your setup. Probably the two different drive shafts you're running. I think people forget these cars are little high performance machines and you can't just throw random parts on it and expect to not have any problems. You wouldnt put two different sized axles on a vette so...
    I dont know what i could be doing wrong, maybe it is the slipper, ill loosen it 1/2 a turn and see how that works once i get it fixed.
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  29. #29
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    Rag6 I wasn't saying the steel ones fit the hd inner shaft. That is why I'm using stock inner with hd outer.
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  30. #30
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    can Some one send me a link to exactly what i need for this to stop from happening?
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  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Racer X View Post
    Rag6 I wasn't saying the steel ones fit the hd inner shaft. That is why I'm using stock inner with hd outer.
    So your mixing a 4x4 outer slider with a 2x4 inner slider? Whats the point? The 2x4 part that you have left in is the one that always twisted and broke at the ears. You left the weakest link (the ears on the 2wd part) in

    OP YOU NEED (2) of these:

    They are TRA6852x, and shim the axles correctly as I said before
    LETS GO PENS!!!!

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    So your mixing a 4x4 outer slider with a 2x4 inner slider? Whats the point? The 2x4 part that you have left in is the one that always twisted and broke at the ears. You left the weakest link (the ears on the 2wd part) in

    OP YOU NEED (2) of these:

    They are TRA6852x, and shim the axles correctly as I said before
    Yeah because i broke the outer one and was at the track and the only one i had was the thicker 4x4 one so i put it on, guess that was a mistake, how much is that part x2 cause ill need 2 of em lol
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  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I was referring to az racer x

    So you also mixed the 2 shafts together at 1 corner?

    They were 7$ each (14$) last time I bought them, about 9 months ago. Not sure about price now...
    LETS GO PENS!!!!

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    I was referring to az racer x

    So you also mixed the 2 shafts together at 1 corner?

    They were 7$ each (14$) last time I bought them, about 9 months ago. Not sure about price now...
    No no, i just want to put em on both sides this time and ill loosen the slipper up a lil bit to just to make sure.
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  35. #35
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    I have ever only broken the ears that are on the outer. . Even when everything was stock. . Well the yolks only broke because gravel got stuck under them from time to time and they wore down so seeing as how the steel ones still get scratches on them I was wanting to use the steel there and replace the outer ears with the HD ones. I agree the weak point on my setup is the inner shaft and ears but again they show no sign of stress like the outer's used to or have the plastic Yolks that wore down pretty bad with any gravel getting in that area.

    Again I am not saying this is the ultimate setup just saying what I use and that it works so far The ONLY thing I worry about all plastic HD shafts is that the yolks are prone to get wear due to location and small rocks.
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  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Got it. I am using big heavy tires on 1 truck in rocks and gravel, and the other on high traction carpet, locked slipper, high power. The 4x4 shafts are 9 mo old, been through Hades on both trucks, and are not worn at the pins. IYYYYYLIKEM!

    I still have the stockers with metal outputs on my daughters vxl slash mt and they are still working great, but she is much easier on her truck.
    LETS GO PENS!!!!

  37. #37
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    Your lucky on that gravel. I chew up anything plastic when I drive on it. Which is why I try to avoid it lol.
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  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Most of my bash spots are full of small to med rocks. My chassis bottoms sure are hating me....
    LETS GO PENS!!!!

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