The final straw!!!!!!!

[Wolfslash16]

I understand nitro is for more "advanced" users, but YOU HAVE TO BE A MASTER MIND TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET ONE RUNNING!!! Well, I'll start at square one. The throttle sticks at half after a WOT, (See my other 4+ threads on what that's all about ) It can't hold a steady tune, it goes through a tank of nitro after 10 min, and my clutch is spraying black dust ALL OVER EVERYTHING after 1 run! So, yesterday, I did a complete engine tear down to clean everything out and to make sure nothing is worn out. The entire inside of the engine was a gold color, and everything looked ok. When I put it all back together, I followed the "How to rebuild a trx 3.3 engine" guide in traxxas support. Then I used clear silicone sealant on the carb base, and on the backplate/EZ start. I took it out today to see if everything would start and work, and guess what?!? THE FREAKING FRONT BEARING IS GUSHING OUT FUEL!!! It still leaks fuel after I lean the hsn out to the safe limit! When I lean out the lsn even just 1/4 a turn, the throttle will stick after a Wot pass. Then if I adjust the idle speed in or out even a little, it will make it alot worse. Then when I do the pinch test, it takes over 15+ sec for the engine to stop! Could the bad front engine bearing be the cause to all of my problems? I know nitro needs alot of time to get right, but I've had this thing since mid May! To give it a break, I went a a vacation and I didn't drive or touch my car for 5 days, and I'm still mad! WHY IS THIS HAPPNING TO ME?!? NO MATTER WHAT I DO OR REPLACE, IT EITHER DOES NOTHING OR IT MAKES IT WORSE!!! I'm begining to think I should have gotten a ERBE or a E maxx, not a nitro car. I have no money to fix anything else, and now I need to fix the bearing, and clutch! PLEASE HELP ME STAY WITH NITRO!!!

(Crap. I just realized I spelled the thread title wrong!)

[FASTMAXX86]

Sounds like you need a new o ring set for the motor..not expensive at the LHS or you can sell me your slayer and use that to buy an electric lol In all honesty i would check your o rings bud. Good Luck.

[upbasher]

Okay when your throttle sticks after a wot pass, check to see if the carb is closing back up. The part that slides in and out could just be sticking. Just turn the car on and use the throttle to wot and see if it goes back shut.
If its not then turn your carb on the engine and see if that helps when its in different positions.

You should just replace the bearings in the engine and do the above and then you should be good.
Oh, and the clutch rebuild kit. make sure when you install the pads that they go in and out without binding.
I definitely wouldn't sell it. If you go electric you will be dissapointed because there is just no life to the car. Sure they are powerful and easy to use but there is no sound or smell and much less "cool" factor.
And before you try and start it again...return all the needles to the stock settings.
My freind's revo is the same way...sometimes it runs, sometimes it doesn't. I guess trx 3.3's are extremely picky.
You could upgrade the engine to an o.s. or something. A guy I knew had an os .21 and it just ran perfect every time no problems and it was the easiest thing in the world to tune. It just depends on how you have your engine tuned and, actually, a good amount of luck. Some engines run, some don't.
You could just buy a new engine....

[Wolfslash16]

OK, thanks for the help guys. I just e-mailed traxxas about the my problem. Wish me luck in getting the bearing issue fixed!

[Redsawacs]

Your tune is off....bad! You cant adjust the low side 1/4 turn and expect it to respond with any degree of accuracy. You have to adjust it in like 1/16 or less adjustments. I can get you close over the phone if you want to call me, PM me and I will give you my number and we can talk over the phone.

I went to the hobby shop and had the RC pro help me with my tune and I asked him why he was barely turning the screws, he told me thats the ONLY want to correctly adjust when you get the base set close to where its suppose to be. If you're running 15 seconds on the pinch, you're way too rich, with it running half throttle after a WOT throttle, you're way to rich. With all the fuel running out the front end, you're way too rich.

I am new but I am starting to get the hang of this nitro bit. Start at base settings. get your high speed close and then check your low side with a pinch test. if your close to your 3-4 seconds, then you can adjust using the high speed pass, wait for 8 seconds and punch it. tuning at that point should be very close.

[Wolfslash16]

I don't think it's my tune, I've put the carb back to stock spec more than 3 times. Great info though, I might just print that out... LOL The front bearing is leaking so bad it drips fuel almost 1 drop for every 5 seconds or so. But, just to be safe, I'll put the carb back to factory specs one more time just in case. Thanks for help Redsawacs!

[Wildman4910]

If you have a 15 sec pinch test time you need to make sure the carb slide is closing all the way when at idle,as it sounds like you are trying to pinch test the HSN circuit.

If the slide does not close all the way you need to find out what is keeping it open & if it is binding in the carb body.

Ebay a new block w/bearings if Traxxas does take care of you, it's the cheapest way.

[Wolfslash16]

Ok, I'm not sure if the carb slide is sticking, but I did replaced the carb body, but it still had the problem, so a bought a entire new complete carb. Well, guess what, that didn't fix it either. If just hoping the bearings will fix it. I'm about 95% sure it's the badly leaking front bearing, but hey, with nitro you just never know. LOL

[revomaxx2223]

Make sure to get the sealed bearings.

[Wolfslash16]

Uh, is the bearing from traxxas, part " Traxxas Ball Bearings TRX 2.5 (2) TRA5223" Are they sealed bearings? If traxxas doesn't have sealed bearings, how much would sealed ones cost?

[Double G]

Bearings are not going to have a 100% seal. So go with the part numbers as shown on the exploded views or go with Avid or Boca bearings 7x17x5 for the front and 12x21x5 for the rear.
As for the carb, make sure the slide moves freely and does not catch any place. Set back to factory settings and then reinstall into the engine. While pushing it down, snug but don't wrench on the pinch bolt. Make sure the pivot for the throttle moves freely and if needed replace the bushings with bearings. No need to really tighten that screw up. With the engine secure in the mount, you will need to adjust the carb to ensure free motion which would require slight adjustments to the angle of the carb and possibly slight adjustments to the throttle arm too. (Looky what I found!!) Then push on the linkage to open the carb and check for fere motion and the the return spring closes the carb back to 0.7-1.0mm open. Turn the electronics on and check the throw of the throttle servo to verify that the carb opens all the way and at the end of throw so that the servo does not stress to open an already WOT carb. Then hit the brake and see how much of a gap there is.
Really, once you spend a little time wrenching on these things, it all starts to make sense. Just don't over think it and if needed walk away.

[Wolfslash16]

Bearings are not going to have a 100% seal. So go with the part numbers as shown on the exploded views or go with Avid or Boca bearings 7x17x5 for the front and 12x21x5 for the rear.
As for the carb, make sure the slide moves freely and does not catch any place. Set back to factory settings and then reinstall into the engine. While pushing it down, snug but don't wrench on the pinch bolt. Make sure the pivot for the throttle moves freely and if needed replace the bushings with bearings. No need to really tighten that screw up. With the engine secure in the mount, you will need to adjust the carb to ensure free motion which would require slight adjustments to the angle of the carb and possibly slight adjustments to the throttle arm too. (Looky what I found!!) Then push on the linkage to open the carb and check for fere motion and the the return spring closes the carb back to 0.7-1.0mm open. Turn the electronics on and check the throw of the throttle servo to verify that the carb opens all the way and at the end of throw so that the servo does not stress to open an already WOT carb. Then hit the brake and see how much of a gap there is.
Really, once you spend a little time wrenching on these things, it all starts to make sense. Just don't over think it and if needed walk away.

Wow. Thanks Double G! I'm not sure if this could be my problem, but with the throttle pivot arm in the stock hole, it will only open the carb slide to half throttle. But when I put the throttle pivot arm in the non stock 2nd hole, it will open the carb slide to about 75% of the way open. I put fresh new transmittier batteries in, and I still got the same results. The carb is at a 10 degrees angle when I did this tests. I don't think it matters much though, because I've had the "throtle stick" with the pivot arm in both holes. I sure hope those bearings fix the problem, because if they don't fix it, then I'm lost in what the problem could be or is.

[Double G]

If I recall the pivot is in the inner hole. The problem may be how your servo horn is set up so you may need to move the linkage to an outer hole so you get more throw.

[Wolfslash16]

Well, traxxas emailed me back and they said "engine bearings can not be replace under warrnety" well, this sucks. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to go and buy a new crackcase with the bearings in it.

[CarGuy7a]

You don't need the whole crank case. The bearings just press into the motor and can be easily removed. The front bearing is the easiest to remove. Just get a 1/4 inch drive socket that will just slip through the rear inner crank bearing and tap it out with a hammer. Notice I said tap don't beat on it. The rear crank bearing is a little more difficult to get out. Heat the crank case a little with a small butane torch and smack the crank case down (as squarely as you can) on a block of wood and it should pop right out.

Or if you want to get technical they do make a bearing installation and removal tool.

[Skholar]

I have the same problem with the black dust coming from the clutch...makes a BIG mess of things...what is the cause of this??

Took the clutch bell apart and the shoes do not seem to have abnoemal wear...

[rag6]

If you go electric you will be dissapointed because there is just no life to the car.

I will say absolutely nothing and scramble back to the electric forums... How did I get here anyway?

[Wolfslash16]

I'm going to get get the bearings with the crackcase beacuase I doesn't hurt to have spare parts around, and besides, it only cost $2 more than getting just the bearings! As for the clutch making "a line of black dust" arcross of my frame, and all over my transmission, I'm still stumped. Can anyone inform me, and Skholar why our clutch's are producing so much black dust?

[Double G]

It is slipping or partially engaging the clutch bell. With a proper idle the shoes should not engage the bell.

[CarGuy7a]

The black dust is normal unless it's excessive. It's just the dust from the clutch shoes. That mixed with a leaky front bearing that dust will cling to the oil in the fuel and make a nasty black stripe on the body and chassis. Just take some nitro cleaner spray and hose it down and it'll come right off.

Now that I run a 3 shoe aluminum clutch, I have a small amount of alum dust on everything. The nitro cleaner takes it right off.

[Ckeithnitro]

whoa u had some problems 3months ago... glad u got it all figured..

[pbflash]

whoa u had some problems 3months ago... glad u got it all figured..

Yup. And now he is the #1 expert on Slayers.

[Wolfslash16]

Yup. And now he is the #1 expert on Slayers.

Yep! I've had my Slayer completely apart about... 40 times, LOL. I know ever nut, bolt, screw, part etc. I"m great on the Slayer, but as you can see, it took me a while to figure out nitros.... LOL.