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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    NEED HELP.......lots of info needed....just got my first mini summit

    just bought my first mini summit, need some help. whats the kv rating on motors for? whats the strongest motor i can put in my mini summit without having to do major modification? whats the best esc? whats the benifit to going lipo? I wanna be able to go fast without overheating and still be able to run off pavement. No crawling just thru grass up hills and maybe a lil dirt and mud running. ANY suggestions will be GREATLY appr. I love my new rc and wanna upgrade it but dont really know what to do!!!! HELP PLEASE

  2. #2
    RC Champion
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    all traxxas 1/16th have the same chassy so you can brouse all the mini forums for motor ideas. lipos last alot longer than any nimh.

    honestly if you are looking for speed. id think about lowering the summit. it rolls easy. just like the 1/10th scale, if you want speed. turn it into the revo
    I'm not krazy. My mother had me tested.

  3. #3
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    Yes. The summit is real top heavy.
    Cars: erevo vxl, 1/16 summit, stampede vxl, tmaxx

  4. #4
    RC Racer
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    I do want speed but i live WAY out in the mountains so there isnt alot of pavement to play on. So I cant lower it much.... still need explination of kv ratings and other previously menmtioned questions please...

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
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    The kv rating on a brushless motor is what rpms the motor will spin based on input voltage. IE a 4000 kv motor on 7.2 volts will spin at 28800 rpms. A higher kv motor would be for like on road driving, a lower kv motor would be for more off road, as a rule of thumb. Your voltage also plays into all of that equation. You would not want to run a 4000 kv motor on say 4s, or 6s, lipo. I hope that helps, it can be kinda hard to understand at times. The plus for lipos is one the run time, I can get about 40 minutes of run on two 2s lipos in parallel. The other plus is the rate at which they can discharge, which is your c rating. There is alot of info in here about all this stuff, it just takes a little time to sort it all out. I again hope this helps you out.
    Rusty 2.5R,T-max 2.5 & 3.3,Summit VXL Nitro 4-tec

  6. #6
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    Stock VXL motor is 4,000 KV. You can put any 540 size motor in the Summit with a brushed motor mount or a tenbol mount with out any other mods besides a stronger ESC. Caution when you step up to a big block the Summit is insanely fast and almost undrivable. Before you would jump up in motor size, I would suggest a Castle ESC of some sorts with the stock motor (it really wakes up!) then if you want a big block you'll be all set with a good ESC already.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
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    thank maxximum and westoaktech, that info is greatly appreciated. anyone else with additional info??? maybe a little more in depth on the "c" rating??? Or which castle esc would be best? ease of install vs bang for the buck??? ive been running two series one batteries in series and i def. like the speed better than parallel but im already breaking cvds. I found lots of steel cvds and one set of alluminum cvds. I like the look of the alluminum ones has anyone run them vs the steel merv cvds? which are better???

  8. #8
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    The C rating is ammount of punch or power you are getting out the battery. Mostly the C rating comes into play when you have a high demanding ESC like a Mamba Monster or something of that nature. It also comes into play when you want to get heavy into the throttle for speed and such. Say you have a 20C rating, well you mash the trottle and your going to get a wheeelie, but if you had a 40C pack you might have done a back flip. Its basicly how the battery pack is pushing out its power and at what rate. The higher the C rating the fast the ESC and draw from it up to its limit (burst rate). Its a very primitive way to looking at it which might be easier for you to understand just starting.

    If I were you, I would stick with what came in the box for a bit . The NIHM pack that came with it a good to start out with for the first few weeks. Then upgrade to Lipo. Lipos can be expensive buying the wrong brands or getting "taken" by your local hobby shop. Look around on the forums and online. For my 1/16's I use the "China specials". 12 bucks for a pack that does the same thing that a 40 dollars pack does... pshhh im sold. Do some reading on here. Helped me alot when I started.

    For the CVD's your going to want to switch to the mini revo stock ones. The are better at the hard drivesline angles of the mini summit. If you do go with metal CVDs, stay with the traxxas brand, there is hundreds of reviews on the after market version and it seems no one has goten it correct. Also the traxxas CVDS do have a good chance of popping out of their cups. The cure is to go with the standard length rear arms, but this will also cut 10mm off your rear driveline width.
    Last edited by Carnage334; 06-28-2012 at 01:20 PM.

  9. #9
    RC Racer
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    Thanks for breakin it down for me. Ive been wantin better batteries but wasnt sure what to base my decision off of. The battery tray is really small in the mini summit.... the only real option is to go lipo... but i hear you can only discharge them 2/3 of the way down to actual empty. does that meen a 1800mah lipo will only last as long as a 1200 mah nimh???

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carnage334 View Post
    The C rating is ammount of punch or power you are getting out the battery. Mostly the C rating comes into play when you have a high demanding ESC like a Mamba Monster or something of that nature. It also comes into play when you want to get heavy into the throttle for speed and such. Say you have a 20C rating, well you mash the trottle and your going to get a wheeelie, but if you had a 40C pack you might have done a back flip. Its basicly how the battery pack is pushing out its power and at what rate. The higher the C rating the fast the ESC and draw from it up to its limit (burst rate). Its a very primitive way to looking at it which might be easier for you to understand just starting.

    If I were you, I would stick with what came in the box for a bit . The NIHM pack that came with it a good to start out with for the first few weeks. Then upgrade to Lipo. Lipos can be expensive buying the wrong brands or getting "taken" by your local hobby shop. Look around on the forums and online. For my 1/16's I use the "China specials". 12 bucks for a pack that does the same thing that a 40 dollars pack does... pshhh im sold. Do some reading on here. Helped me alot when I started.

    For the CVD's your going to want to switch to the mini revo stock ones. The are better at the hard drivesline angles of the mini summit. If you do go with metal CVDs, stay with the traxxas brand, there is hundreds of reviews on the after market version and it seems no one has goten it correct. Also the traxxas CVDS do have a good chance of popping out of their cups. The cure is to go with the standard length rear arms, but this will also cut 10mm off your rear driveline width.
    ^^^Carnage is 100% correct^^^ Saved me a bunch of typing! Lol!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpfarmer13 View Post
    Thanks for breakin it down for me. Ive been wantin better batteries but wasnt sure what to base my decision off of. The battery tray is really small in the mini summit.... the only real option is to go lipo... but i hear you can only discharge them 2/3 of the way down to actual empty. does that meen a 1800mah lipo will only last as long as a 1200 mah nimh???
    I don't think it's 2/3 of the way to empty, but you will never ever want to run them down to empty as they will puff and possibly explode! The LVD on the vxl 3m is set around 3.4 volts so an 1800 should last a good 15-20 mins. I have a crappy ******* 1300 lipo that lasts about 15 mins and is a ton of fun and improvement over those silly nimhs! Plus a lipo has a constant and steady amount of power throughout the pack, unlike the nimhs that steadily lose their punch as the pack drains down.
    Last edited by Maxximum Overdive; 06-28-2012 at 01:45 PM.

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