Newb, Didnt make it a full battery run.

[beastaudio]

Alright, so just got my ERBE yesterday, and was playing around in the backyard at low to moderate speeds and everything was great!! I got some 5000 35c 3s lipo's as well and was just taking it easy for the first 10-15 minutes, I then took it out on the road by my house to open it up a shade. That thing was hauling!! but then I all of a sudden realized something was way off, I didnt have any power on demand anymore. I could still reach fast speeds, but I had virtually no accel off the line. no backflips, no wheelies, and it was almost like when I gassed on it, it was trying to go but couldnt. What happened?

[humayrayakongkinaon]

probsably your LVD kicked in and limit your throttle to avoid damage to your lipos.

[beastaudio]

pulled the lipo's and recharged, everything had cooled down for about an hour or two, still the same thing! what is the LVD?

[LaTuFu]

LVD=low voltage detection

It's in the esc, and it protects you from over discharging your batteries.

[BlackSheep800]

Did you check your slipper clutch? Is the engine turning but the truck is not moving?

[beastaudio]

LVD=low voltage detection

It's in the esc, and it protects you from over discharging your batteries.

would that come on at some point and then stay on? or a power off cycle for both and a cool-down would reset it? Like I said, it worked great for about 10-15 minutes in the backyard, then just lost low end accel completely.

Did you check your slipper clutch? Is the engine turning but the truck is not moving?

when i gas it, it sounds like something is trying to catch, and eventually does, but takes a second to get going, but then it is just fine, goes just as fast as it should. needless to say, I want to fix this quick so I can get back out there!!!

[BlackSheep800]

Sounds like the slipper........when you say "sounds like its trying to catch". What gearing are you running on 6s? Have you taken the cover off and looked at the pinion/spur? If so did it look okay?

[beastaudio]

Sounds like the slipper........when you say "sounds like its trying to catch". What gearing are you running on 6s? Have you taken the cover off and looked at the pinion/spur? If so did it look oaky?

seemed like it was fine, I havent messed with ANY settings, so however it came out of the box is what I am using.

[BlackSheep800]

IMO, if your going to run 6s you may need to change your gearing from stock 18/65.

Here is a cut-n-paste from another thread on Slipper Clutch Break-In:

The E-Revo Brushless Edition’s slipper clutch requires a break-in procedure
to ensure consistent operation with the extremely high power output of
the included Castle Creations Mamba Monster brushless motor system. The
slipper clutch has been adjusted to the correct initial setting for break-in.
Follow these steps to ensure maximum performance and life from your
slipper clutch:

1. Make your first runs with the model using the stock gearing and 6- or
7-cell NiMH packs, or 2S LiPo packs.

2. Drive normally. The slipper clutch should slip momentarily when
accelerating aggressively on high-traction surfaces (you will hear a
whirring sound when the slipper clutch allows the spur gear to slip).

3. If excessive slippage is noticed (slipping that lasts for more than 3
seconds under hard acceleration), or the slipper clutch slips anytime
the throttle is applied at any lever, stop driving immediately. Let the
slipper clutch cool for 10-15 minutes. When the clutch is cool, test-drive
the vehicle again. If you still experience excessive slippage, allow the
slipper to cool once more, then tighten the slipper nut ¼ turn (turn the
nut clockwise) and repeat the break-in process. Do not adjust the slipper
clutch before it has cooled.

4. Continue to run the vehicle and monitor slipper clutch performance as
noted above, and readjust if necessary. When the run is complete, the
slipper should be fully broken in.

After break-in, the slipper clutch is ready for any type of driving, with any
batteries up to 6S Lipo. Set the slipper clutch so it only slips for a moment
(if at all) under hard acceleration in high-traction conditions. If excessive
slippage is noticed, stop driving immediately. Continuing to drive with a
loose slipper will cause damage to the slipper unit. You must let the slipper
cool down to ambient temperature before tightening the slipper nut and
resuming driving.

It sounds to me that you may have burnt the clutch......which is a cheap fix. New pads are like under $10.

[O.G.]

I've only run mine on 4s and that had a lot of power. I need to order a couple for 6s fun.

Welcome to the forum. Hope you get it up and running soon.

[beastaudio]

BlackSHeep, thanks so much for that walkthrough!!! I went by my local store and looked at it with the tech there and we actually were able to turn the nut a good 2 rotations or so!!! Im assuming that will fix my issue and plan to retry when I get home this evening... after I replace the front upper and lower arms with some stronger plastic (already had one break on a stump I found last night :chuckle

I've only run mine on 4s and that had a lot of power. I need to order a couple for 6s fun.

Welcome to the forum. Hope you get it up and running soon.

6s is insane. this is my first RC since my old tsoro-x about 15 years ago, haha. Learning curve? nah, im not down with those

[BlackSheep800]

Glad it was an easy fix!!! But I would really advise you to consider a gearing change while running 6s. Even if you’re not doing speed runs, raising the gear ratio from the stock 18/65 will really help a LOT on the driveline. I am really surprised you haven’t already broken a drive shaft.

18/65 (3.61) on 6s is a lot of torque and something will have to give!!!

Spur gears are CHEAP!!!!! You can buy one for about $3. A set of drive shafts are about $30. I’m running 18/58 (3.22) on my mine and I’m only on 4s.

[beastaudio]

What is the extra gear that is in the box? Im ok with a little less off the line, and a higher top-end, but I dont want to lose wheelie popping ability!! I thought the guy at the store told me the other gear in the box would give it more top-end, so I assume that will also help lower the torque somewhat at the same time

[BlackSheep800]

The other gear is a 54 tooth spur. 18/54 is a 3.00 gear ratio.........a pretty good happy medium. It will rob you some from off the line. It still pulled wheelies for me on 4s but I doubt if you're able to do back flips.

It's all trial and error. I started with 18/65 went up to 18/54, down to 18/62 and have ended (today) at 18/58.

A lot of factors will come into play as you start upgrading, such a tire/wheels and figure out you driving style.

Stick on the 54t spur tonight and you'll see the diference.

[beastaudio]

how easy is it to pop one off and put the other one on? looking at it, it seems pretty straightforward but I havent spent a LOT of time under the hood yet (obviously). something I could do in 5-10 minutes?

[LaTuFu]

It takes 15-20 minutes. Not a big hassle. The first time you try to do it, you might feel a little overwhelmed, but its relatively simple. Keep the exploded views handy in case you get stuck.

[BlackSheep800]

When you do this you will have to remesh your pinion/spur. Do you know how to do that? A quick and somewhat good way to do that is to take a piece of notebook paper (regular notebook paper, nothing too think) and cut a strip about the width of the spur gear and about 3" long. Put the paper between the pinion and spur, mesh the two together letting the paper be the gap between the two gears. Tighten the motor bracket back down and using your thumb role the paper out. The spur should be able to have a little lateral movement but not much front to back movement.

I’m sure there are other ways of doing this but this has always worked for me.

[beastaudio]

That's actually the exact suggestion the guy at my store used to explain how to do it if that is the toughest part of switching the gears out, im in good shape!!!

[revomaxx2223]

If you don't know how to fix it send it to me and i'll fix it for you. Haha

[BlackSheep800]

One last thing......make sure the numbers/letters are facing out on the spur gear.

[beastaudio]

Awesome!!! thanks so much to everyone!!! Im sure ill have plenty more questions moving forward please dont get tired of me!!! haha

[revomaxx2223]

/\
Does this mean i can "fix" your erevo?

[beastaudio]

/\
Does this mean i can "fix" your erevo?

Not unless you are the guy at my local hobby store This thing isnt going in the mail unless it's headed back to traxxas for some reason.

[revomaxx2223]

haha aw man the ten letter limit.

[87 GN]

I am going to guess you have glazed over the slipper pads. You need to turn the pads & the plates over & follow the break in instruction posted...

with 2/3s you are putting about 5HP to a 12 lbs truck.

take some time to read the manual & this..


AOD's Links Revo

Erevo 101:
EREVO FAQ

Lipo, LVC, Brushless & Battery charger/charging guides & purchasing links:
TUTORIALS

Refer to this to setup the Mamba Monster ( MMM ) esc for maximum performance:
CASTLE LINK GUIDE


Refer to this to find parts, upgrades, batts & chargers etc:
USEFUL LINKS


And direct from CastleCreations ( the esc manufacturers ):
MMM FAQ

Driver's ED Manual

LED warning light meanings

[beastaudio]

Thanks for the links!! I'll give all of those a good read as Ill be taking the week off next week and will certainly have time to read over all of those!! I bit of an update though, I replaced both lower a-arms on the front last night and gave it a quick run after tightening the slipper clutch and it had all the power back just like new, but once again after running on pavement for a few minutes after about 10 minutes on the grass, it started to slip again, although not near as bad. I stopped immediately once this started happening again. Ive read in several places to tighten the screw all the way down and then back-off about a 1/4 turn, should I do that?

With that said, how hard is it to reverse the pads? The guy at the store seemed to think it would be beneficial for the first time I remove all the gears, to bring it in and walk-through it with him, but im pretty good at tinkering with stuff, altough I have NO experience in RC motors...

[beastaudio]

ok I scooped the heavy duty traxxas slipper gear rebuild just in case Hope that is the right choice. I also looked for a 2c battery to match my venom 5000mah 35C 3s batts so I can run 5S. Guy at the store still tried to talk me out of mixing batteries, but I see a LOT of folks around here that seem to think it is a perfect medium. Needless to say though, Venom doesnt make a 5000mah 35c 2s battery to match my 3s, so should i look at another Co's battery? I found protek, integy, hyperion, and hobbypeople batteries that match my specs, but wont mix battery Companies if that is a bad idea. the closest option I have with Venom is all the same but with 3800 mah, or a 5000mah 40c 2s. the second would be 5c more than my 3cell.

So what do you guys think? Im guessing mixing different company's batteries is the least of all evils here

[LaTuFu]

You can run 5s, but it is highly recommended that you match the batteries.

The same manufacturer, c rating, mAh. The reason for keeping the same manufacturer is the disparity in c ratings. One company's 30c might be another company's 20c. The matching mAh prevents one battery from discharging at a faster rate than the other one.

[steveski4]

Def do not mix batteries. Its a good way to ruin one by discharging too much.

[beastaudio]

well then, anyone want some 5000mah 35c 3s batts so I can get two more of those I can properly match up with some 2s batts? My dad has a ERBE as well so i would give one of each to him and keep one of each for myself, but id rather run 5s total, all things matched perfect I guess... crapfish.

[O.G.]

Look at SPC Lipo's, they have 2s and 3s lipos pretty reasonable.

[BlackSheep800]

+1 on SPC (Spec Point Concepts).

[beastaudio]

should i keep looking at 35c? or is 25 or 30C ample?

[BlackSheep800]

I'm not completely on top of the whole "c" rating thing myself......there's a way to back into the minimum required. I'll look around and see if I cant find the links you need. I run SPC 2s 35c 8400mAh. They have been great batteries for me so far.....I think they were around $65ea.

Like LaTuFu said ^...... Not naming any names but some manufactures like to stretch the truth a little when it comes to c ratings.

I personally would call Tom at SPC, tell him what you’re trying to do and roll with it. I don’t think you will be sorry.

[BlackSheep800]

Here is what I was looking for ......87GN has posted this a few times in the past. Pretty straight forward.

Example: 5000mAh 25c

( mAh x c rating / 1000 = amps)

The more amps the better; minimun of 120 amps.

The ESC will only draw the amount of amps it needs.

[beastaudio]

minimum of 120amps on the ERBE is suggested, but is that PER battery or total between the two. Just as an example, all the traxxis model batts are 25c, no other options, so for a 4000 mah 25c that would be:

4000x25=100000/1000=100 amps. good or no. 4000 30c would be a 120amp per battery deal. I can get the traxxas batts pretty darn cheap though through my store as I have a LOT of points to spend there

[BlackSheep800]

The batteries are hooked up in series, so you are doubling the output of the battery……hence 4s, 5s or 6s.

One would assume the amps would be doubled as well. The part I am not sure of is if the ESC needs 120amps or 120amps per battery for a total or 240amps.

Once again I will do a little research. This is one of those things I store in short term memory. LOL

[BlackSheep800]

Here's your answer......Thanks again to 87GN!!!

Batts in series double the voltage:
2x 2s 20c 5000mah = 4s 20c 5000mah

Batts in parallel double the mah capacity:
2x 2s 20c 5000mah = 2s 20c 10,000mah

So basically the ESC needs 120amps but the erbe is wired to run in series so you are only doubling the voltage......no the amps.

[beastaudio]

ok so for a 4000mah rated batt, you'll want at least 30c to equal the minimum of 120amps. GOod to know, now I wonder why traxxas doesnt even offer anything over 25c...

[beastaudio]

perhaps that is the highest they recommend, so you would need to go to at least a 5000mah to get to 120amps...