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  1. #1
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    Bandit conversion to 1/8 truggy

    Hello everyone, this is my first post on a traxxas forum so any pointers would be great, but on with the post! I recently made an aluminum chassis for my bandit that kept it as a 1/10 buggy, but it was my first chassis I ever made, so there were quite a few flaws. I decided that I would make a truggy chassis to twist things up a bit. This is the result! I used 6061 1/8" aluminum with 1/16" thick 3/4" angled aluminum for the sides of the chassis and for the battery tray. All screws are either 3mm or 4mm metric hex countersunk into the chassis. The electronics are all stock, except for the motor, but it's still just a replaced velineon 3500 because my first one broke in a crash. The motor/transmission is all inboard, and I know thats kinda hated because it changes up the suspension components, but I honestly haven't noticed any bad handling or anything like that. Also to handle better, look more truggy-like, and make clearance for the body, I put on Rustler rear a-arms, and both sets of shocks are Traxxas big bore with high rate Losi springs. Let me know what you think!!!


  2. #2
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    Oh, and I'm still saving up for truggy wheels and tires lol SCT tires/wheels still work well

  3. #3
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    So you just reversed the whole suspension and transmission assembly?

    I'd be afraid to personally, because it could play havoc with the suspension geometry. For example, I don't know if there's some anti-squat built into it, by reversing it you could be encouraging squat. And I think you are lucky that there's no toe-in with the Rustler A-arms.

    Anyway, if you've driven it and you are happy with the handling, that's what counts

    I love the forward cab body!!! How much does the chassis weight? Is it much heavier than the plastic chassis?

    For ages I've wanted to build a Bandit chassis with long and short wheelbase settings but I have never gotten round to it...

  4. #4
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    Brilliant build there. One bit of advice is that I love truggy bodies but your wheels are far too small and arms way too narrow. I would try putting near proline protrac arms all the way around with 0mm offset wheels then it'll be much wider, look better and handle better.

    One thing, how did you mount the rear of the top plate that holds the servo to the chassis. Did you use stand offs?
    Does more $ = More fun?
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  5. #5
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    Looks cool man!! How did you move the transmission though? was it simple to move or was it a little tricky?
    Rustler Vxl,Slash 2WD,Slash 4X4,SPC Lipos

  6. #6
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    Ya it doesn't squat at all even though I think it originally has antisquat....
    The whole think with a hardcase 2s lipo and the body weighs around 5 pounds, idk what the bandit originally weighed but this car is pretty light. The aluminum was cheap, I went to a scrap metal yard and a sheet I have made three chassis from was only 20 bucks and we had the angled stuff lying around so that wasn't a problem, but I can't imagine it would be very expensive anyways. I had so much fun making it! You should definitely try it cuz, IMO, it was pretty rewarding having it drive like a beast after putting all the effort into it.

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    Oh, and ya, I wish I had better wheels and a-arms but I can't afford them all just yet... The transmission move was not bad at all. the only problem I ran into was that on the bottom of the transmission case there is a drop-down part that hangs over the original chassis and is used to mount the transmission bumper and fasten the two transmission halves, so when I first tried to screw in the tranny it angled back because that drop-down part was pushing down on the chassis, because it was now inboard, so I just stuck a 1/8" plate under it and that leveled it out well. Also this would not work well with brushed motors because you have to reverse the rotation of the motor... which is definitely, to me, the biggest drawback...UNLESS you used the reverse rotation titan motor usued in the dual-motor e-revo...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by The VXL View Post
    One thing, how did you mount the rear of the top plate that holds the servo to the chassis. Did you use stand offs?
    Haha I keep missing things-well when I first put on the steering assembly and tried to mount the top chassis, the screws that hold the bellcranks were in the way, because in the stock chassis there are recesses in the chassis for those screw caps to drop into, so I drilled holes in the new chassis for them to snug into, and then I mounted the top chassis by using 40mm screws that came up from the bottom then fastened it down with locking nuts. it bends the top chassis a bit, but when I tried using plastic standoffs they broke ALL THE TIME so this works way better and I have yet to experience any problems

  9. #9
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    Reversing the transmission actually plays greatly to the ability to turn on the track. I did the same thing to mine the weight shift balanced the car better in air and also that drop down is something you can cut off without any negative effects provided we are both talking about this:


    Also something you might want to look into is the 4tec rear hub carriers, they will give you some rear toe and can be put on anyway so u have a bit better rotation. also look into the diff-washer mod... sure some complain that it will rip up your planetary gears in the diff, but for 5 bucks its ok and with the mid motor the trans unloads more often. Just something i learned the hard way, you might want to build a top deck to keep the chassis from flexing. Anyway sweet build dude

  10. #10
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    That doesn't look like a bandit any more

  11. #11
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    @Thebig131, ya that is the thing I was talking about. I am not so sure I want to mess with my diff because a $5 part that can cause a $25 fix isnt exactly my cup of tea, but I was actually able to create a shim that safely locks it, and I took it out a few days after putting it in because i didnt like the decreased turning radius and the constant spinning out. Are the 4tec hub carriers the same as far as mounting goes? I might look into that

  12. #12
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    The 4tec hub carriers are a bit taller and the mounts for the camber links aren't as long, but they fit I used some on mine. you will need like a few small washers because the hub carriers are a tiny bit narrower, but its less than 1mm smaller. They give 1.5 degrees of toe, I am working on finding out how much the mounts on the tranny can be cut to fit the rustler arm mounts for more toe. Later I will post pictures of the 4tec carriers next to rustler ones. But try the plastic ones and if you like them get the traxxas aluminum ones

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Let me strat by saying, very nice build you got there! Looks nice and clean.



    There are a couple things that caught my attention though.

    Quote Originally Posted by cfkreuzer View Post
    I put on Rustler rear a-arms,

    Quote Originally Posted by cfkreuzer View Post
    Ya it doesn't squat at all even though I think it originally has antisquat....

    Quote Originally Posted by cfkreuzer View Post
    so when I first tried to screw in the tranny it angled back because that drop-down part was pushing down on the chassis, because it was now inboard, so I just stuck a 1/8" plate under it and that leveled it out well.

    First, if you started out with a Bandit and used Rustler rear arms, you might want to get some Rustler front arms too. The Bandit uses Nitro Rustler front arms and they're shorter than the electric version.

    Second, when you made that 1/8" plate to go underneath the trans, did you cut it the full length of the trans? If so, you're still gonna end up with pro-squat and that something you definitely don't want. The Bandit trans has 1.5 degrees of anti-squat built-in, so if you simply reversed the trans and it's sitting level to the chassis, now you have 1.5 degrees of pro-squat.

    Just some things you may want to take into consideration.

    Can't wait to see this thing in action when you get it all done!

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thebig131 View Post
    The 4tec hub carriers are a bit taller and the mounts for the camber links aren't as long, but they fit I used some on mine. you will need like a few small washers because the hub carriers are a tiny bit narrower, but its less than 1mm smaller. They give 1.5 degrees of toe, I am working on finding out how much the mounts on the tranny can be cut to fit the rustler arm mounts for more toe. Later I will post pictures of the 4tec carriers next to rustler ones. But try the plastic ones and if you like them get the traxxas aluminum ones

    The 4-Tec carriers will also change your roll center. Not sure whether it's for the better or worse because I have no idea what kind of setup/ driving you're doing.

    As far as removing the arm mounts from the trans in order to use N.Rustler mounts, there is plenty of room to do this. I've done it several times in the past and it works great. It gets a little tricky on the right side because it's tighter due to the motor mount plate, but it will work. I should even have pics of the mod somewhere. I'll see if I can dig them up.

    One other issue with doing the arm mount mod is that the nitro mounts won't bolt correctly to the stock chassis. You can probably get away with dremeling the chassis holes a little bit, but I made my own g-10 chassis and drilled the correct hole locations on mine.


    EDIT: Here are the only pics I can find right now. As you can see, the arm mounts fit nicely once enough material is removed from the cases





    Pic of bottom to show the hole locations are slightly closer together than the stock locations:

    Last edited by harry697; 06-27-2012 at 04:33 PM.

  15. #15
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    The 4tec hubs will change roll center but because of how much he has already changed he can adjust to fit them. I for one love toe in for the back so the roll center was something i had to adjust but the 4tec has more hole for camber links and you also have the second hole on the rustler shock tower. Anyway here is a picture that shows the height difference in the two carriers. You will need to adjust your suspension to make up for the ~1/8 difference.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thebig131 View Post
    The 4tec hubs will change roll center but because of how much he has already changed he can adjust to fit them. I for one love toe in for the back so the roll center was something i had to adjust but the 4tec has more hole for camber links and you also have the second hole on the rustler shock tower. [/IMG]
    The problem is that the other hole in the shock tower will throw your setting even further from stock because it's above the stock location. I'm sure it's not a big deal to most people running Rustlers and Bandits and I agree that it's much better to gain 1.5 degrees of toe-in at the expense of roll center setting. The toe setting is gonna make much more difference than roll center in pretty much every aspect.

  17. #17
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    Yes and for 4bucks i think it is work the risk of having to change it back to stockers

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Second, when you made that 1/8" plate to go underneath the trans, did you cut it the full length of the trans? If so, you're still gonna end up with pro-squat and that something you definitely don't want. The Bandit trans has 1.5 degrees of anti-squat built-in, so if you simply reversed the trans and it's sitting level to the chassis, now you have 1.5 degrees of pro-squat.
    Oh, that's interesting, because I haven't noticed any problems with the squatting, but if I do, what you did looks really convenient and awesome, so I may try that too, but gotta save up first haha
    And what do you have your tranny mounted on? is that a custom chassis?

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfkreuzer View Post
    Oh, that's interesting, because I haven't noticed any problems with the squatting, but if I do, what you did looks really convenient and awesome, so I may try that too, but gotta save up first haha
    And what do you have your tranny mounted on? is that a custom chassis?
    Yup. That was a custom g-10 chassis for a racing Rustler that I built for a friend. Wish I could find the completed pics.


    What you really need to get that rear geometry right is a 3 degree wedge to put under the trans. That way it would get you back to the standard 1.5 anti-squat. Take a look at the mid motor Slice chassis. He has a wedge to make it work.

  20. #20
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    hey cfk cut that piece off that i talked about earlier it will make mounting easier and make it so you won't need that metal plate under your trans. Soon i will have pictures of what i am testing its and atempt to do what harry is doing only keeping the stock mounting setup i am trying the flm style a arm mounts

  21. #21
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    need some pics of the rear tower bracing. That is 1 of the biggest issues with mid engine conversions and this chassis...
    How are you shoring up the flimsyness??? Need some pics...
    Here is a pic of how chuckworks shored up this area on my chassis. this is the most solid shock tower mount setup I have seen on any 2wd traxxas with a magnum trans:

    Notice the red and yellow arrows. If you could make a solid U shaped brace that starts at the shock tower, goes down to and across the chassis and back up to the shock tower, it will be more solid than a stock truck.


    This looks great as a buggy chassis in case you have any issues with the big honkin truggy tires. I had durability issues with my axles running my slash with them:


    I was bending and replacing an axle every 5-6 packs or so, but it was worth it. You may also want to upgrade the rear driveline if running a lot of power. 32p gears will be a must. Just buy them...
    Last edited by rag6; 06-27-2012 at 06:14 PM.
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  22. #22
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    Rag brings up two very important points shock tower stiffeners and 32p gears.. Your full blown setup will have huge tires so u need 32p gears on your spur and pinnion. also get stiffeners under your shock tower. I forgot them on my first mid motor mod and it leveraged the tranny and i ended up destroying the trans case and tweaked the rest of the car.

  23. #23
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    Sorry for the double post but this is was I was talking about earlier. I just finished it. It puts the a arm mounts about 1/8" higher so with the 4tec carriers it will be a 1/4" and also I am heading to my lhs to get the nitro rustler mounts to see if they will fit. I know for sure I will have to shrink them in height but so far it looks good and it won't need more screws so it will still mount on the standard pattern. The current carriers came of an old trans case that got twisted up over 4 years.


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    Ya I will have to take some pics of the rear, but what I did is the plate that was used as a leveler for the tranny extended out the back(I would have used just the main chassis, except it was something I overlooked when I cut it out and drilled the holes, so I didnt have any space to drill other holes to put standoffs for the shock tower)and I drilled holes in the plate to put standoffs on. The standoffs I used were plastic tubes that I drilled to fit the threads of 3mm screws, same with the bottom.

  25. #25
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    Just from reading that it sounds pretty nice and I just realized i posted the same picture give me 2 min and i will have the right ones up:
    here it is


  26. #26
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    OOOOooooohhhhh that makes more sense. what were the mounts you put on? its probably in a previous post but I am too lazy too look for it haha

  27. #27
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    the mounts were to another trashed rustler trans I got nitro rustler mounts today. Im shaving them down right now. Pictures will be soon

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    sweet man can't wait to see!

  29. #29
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    Here is a picture of the nitro rustler mounts and the yellow is area that I had to cut. I don't have pictures of it cut or finished because I had to pack it up for vacation. I also drilled it to take set screws so i can use pins without the e clips. my hands are just too beat up from them and they are too easy for me to break.

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