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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Woodward, OK
    Posts
    318

    Drive shaft problems

    Whats up guys. I am having drive shaft problems. I installed a new 2.5r, got through break in and can not keep a drive shaft for a full tank of fuel. Here is what I have done, I installed all new bearings front and reat, new servo saver, new steering links with bearings, new wheels and tires front and rear, Rebuilt with new springs and oil in all four shocks. My old rusty is running and handling better than it ever has. But like I said about 1/3 through a tank of fuel the u-joint either comes out of the diff stub or the end of the drive shaft urghhhh! I have been looking at after market drive lines, has anyone ran the tekno conversion. I like the looks of it because the pin is captured in the bearing, and the diff side is a dog bone. Home > Traxxas Slash 2WD Parts >

    Tekno RC M6 Driveshaft & Hub Carriers Rear Slash 2WD TKR1951X
    T-maxx 3.3
    Rusty 2.5r
    Summit VXL
    Nitro 4-tec

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    165
    Are they older driveshafts? Are the ends worn out too much for the stars too stay in? They are a little difficult too put in I've found, the more you stretch the end too try too pop them in, the more likely they might come out. Also, the slipper clutch...how tight is it? Do you have any upgraded parts in the gearing? Steal stuff? Somethings gotta give...
    Jato 3.3 Pede 2.5R Rusty 3.3

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Woodward, OK
    Posts
    318
    The drive shafts are all new, diff stubs, shafts, stub axles, and the little u-joints. I have checked for binding, nothing is bound, all new bearings. The only other thing I thought about is using heat shrink over the joints, but I am afraid they wont flex enough. I am going to buy the tekno kit and try it. It is the best looking after market that I have seen.
    T-maxx 3.3
    Rusty 2.5r
    Summit VXL
    Nitro 4-tec

  4. #4
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Barksdale AFB, LA
    Posts
    157
    Look into 6852X, they are the HD rear shafts from the Slash 4x4 and are much stronger in the tabs. I had the same problem as you, after I swapped them I haven't busted a single one. If the actual output tab on your trans are still the old style, upgrade them to the new ones (2382), they have a hole that allows the retaining pin to go through the shaft instead of the 2 grub screws "pinching" it.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Woodward, OK
    Posts
    318
    Thanks I may have to try that, I have tried everything else. I do have the new style. Actually had white ones, and one side it wore out. Put the old white one back on the other day, and no more problems on that side. It is just frustrating not being able to get through one tank of fuel and then fix drive shaft. Again thanks alot.
    T-maxx 3.3
    Rusty 2.5r
    Summit VXL
    Nitro 4-tec

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