street rustler ??? helps

[screamsatchildren]

i have nitro rustler as you can see and i want to turn it into a street machine i know i want the jato wheels and tires but i need help on dropping the suspension, i've seen picks but none that showed how it was set up to get it that low

[chevy-73]

shock pistons on the botom side of the shaft or feul tubing but the pistons are more acurate imo. picture is blury but shows what can be done

[chevy-73]

but wait for shagg he will explain more.

[screamsatchildren]

yea thats more like what i want and those tires, where did you find them i thought the anacondas' where the only ones but those look like theres more surface area on the pavement than the anacondas' what are they called

[Powerman]

I have two comments. 1st, Talk to Shaggy!!!!! He knows whats up with lowering the car. He is the man at moddin shocks. 2nd, Jconcepts G-Locs is what you want for the street. Get the premounts. They dont turn to pizza cutters. Almost no ballooning at all. And they hook up to the pavement.

[screamsatchildren]

i'll consider those tires but idk my rustler is stock other than the VXL suspension so i dont have much problem with the "ballooning of the tires even with the alias' tires, the only problem i have with the alias is the life of the rear tires they last about 7 runs so as far as price goes i may stick with the anacondas they work really good on my friends electric rustler which is much faster than my nitro but yea so i take it i need to mod the shocks that sounds a bit simple but i guess i'll wait for Shaggy

[Shaggy101086]

I been waiting for a reason to show off my street truck lol. Building a street rusty is very simple and can be done on a real cheap budget. Mine seemed to come together for pennies. The very first thing you need to do is to get rid of the easy starter. The thing ust weighs way too uch and holds the truck back. On road set ups generally go real fast so you will need to loose a bunch of weight to keep up. With that kind of weight difference, you want to tune the suspension AFTER you swap to a pull start or shaft starter and do any other mods to reduce weight. For what you want, I highly recommend rpm parts cause there lighter than mostly all other aftermarket parts, even most carbon fiber parts. CF stuff is only slightly lighter. I broke my CF rear tower in a crash and went back to RPM for the rear tower. The front tower is still CF. I love my carbon fiber chasssis but if I knew how little of a difference in weight to the stock chassis, I would not of spent $45 on it lol. For the high traction you get on pavement, you don't want the rear toe-in that built into nitro rustler a-arms, it will cause you to eat right through your tires even faster. Electric arms don't have any built in toe solving this problem and makes the truck wider for much better handling. Order RPM a-arms and camber for the electric rusty for about $25. To be honest, that would be the best street rusty starter kit. I would stay away from the anacondas on the jato wheels. Proline makes a few nice street tires. I love the Road Rage by proline. They grab so good, I snapped a drive yoke in the rain. Chevy is right about how to lower it. Just add some extra pistons onto the shock shaft, inside right below the piston thats already there so the shocks can't fully extend. It will take a couple trys to get it where you want it. Suspension work is lots of trial and error. Trim the springs a little so theres not too much spring for a shorter shock. Make sure the springs are long enough to hold the lower caps in place on the shock. If you trim off too much you can add spring preload spacers to lift it back up a little. Once you have the ride hight where you want it, you can add RPM limiter clips or fuel line to the bottom of the shock shafts to prevent bottoming out.








The last pic is pritty old but shows the difference in width with electric arms.

[screamsatchildren]

oh so thats how i lower it thats simple and awesome and i already have the rpm arms and i have seen those tires the road rage they seem pretty good and at only $15 a set their quite a deal

[screamsatchildren]

okay so i got the shockes where i want them now i'm gonna wait till the rear alias' are finished before i put the PL Road Rage tires on my black chrome wheels

[screamsatchildren]

i didnt lower it all the way cause the roads where i live aren't the best and the best part is i got my little 2.5 running so good it idled while i took the time to take the pics

[Shaggy101086]

Thats a great ride hight for your setup. You don't need to go too low anyway for great results. The camber looks just right too for my liking. Wow thats funny, I should of noticed the electric arms and cambers. Your good to go my friend. Yeah, a street rusty is that simple. How stiff is the suspension? Even with on road racing, softer settings give better grip all round. Some people think you want stiffer settings when going on road but thats not the case with these trucks IMO. I'd try to make the truck a little lighter and play around with different gearing. If you feel good about your skills, ditch the bumpers, body mounts and body. You could get lighter batteries, like a micro 2s lipo. The high volume air filter is a great upgrade. It woke up my engine in a big way. It felt like I was getting 20% more power all round. Don't worry about the servos unless your trying to spend more cash, the stock ones do just fine for a street setup. Stronger servos can lead to less traction all round. If your front wheels turn too fast, they break loose you get understeer, and on the throttle servo, if the breaks are too strong, they will do nothing but lock up the wheels. You can go out and drop a bunch of cash on a better 2.4 and tune all that type of stuff but the stock stuff is just a great match for a light street rusty. My off roader is heavier and needs 2075s to stop it and turn the front wheels on rough or high traction surfaces. Your going to love the Proline tires. I would just buy more wheels instead of trying to remove the old ones. Its not too easy and you could screw up the wheel and tire. New rims are only about $7 on rc planet for the set of 2 black chromes. The road rage seem a little still when you first get them but they break in. So long story short, theres lots you can do but you already have a great street set up. I'd grab the tires, the filter and a couple different gears and have some fun. Good luck man

[screamsatchildren]

yea thanks and with the tires i have a big bowl w/ lid filled with fish tank rocks and acetone so the tires just slip off the wheels after a 35min soak i've glued 3 sets of tires to the rear wheels the fronts wheel they've never been taken off for obvious reasons but yea it feels good and i may just get the T-MAXX filter i put it on the rustler for a little while and loved the results!! but thanks for the help i almost sold the rustler but now its peaked my interest once again!!!!

[ttThree]

If you want to make a street rustler you need to take a look in the electric section. I dont know what top speed you looking at but for stability you could add a gyro, proper street tyres (jaco foams, grp gandinis), also lower the car to 1 inch from the ground. Also some tire weight in the front to prevent blow over at high speeds. Do this and you have a bad " " nitro rustler.

[screamsatchildren]

yea i'm not looking for top speed or a very low slung rustler i just want a street basher

[screamsatchildren]

heres something else i found awesome the T-MAXX's 6.3" tires are the same height as the Rustler its self

[Shaggy101086]

I love racing maxxs lol I put my street truck under my buddys maxx and it caused him to flip. We were dragging and he beat me off the line (i had no traction at first) and I cough up real fast going under his back right wheel. lol Y truck just kept going full throttle no problem. I tried that move again and the maxx held the ground sending my rusty 8 feet in the air. Can't always win. My friends say I race dirty lol. Thats a nice tire truck, ill have to try it. Acetone is powerful stuff and can damage some tires and rims so teas on a tiny unseen part of the wheel and rubber before you go to town. I messed up a set of anacondas so just be careful. For your road conditions, I think your fronts will do great.
To people that like to weigh down there front end. I want to clear up the common misperception of weighing down the front end. Its not the right way of going about your street truck. Trust me, weighing down the front is just adding useless weight and wasting cash. You don't need or want it. JUST FIGURE OUT YOUR SHOCKS. If you keep them on the softer side the car will plant down and not want to take off into outer space. A little rake helps too (front end slightly lower than the rear) Also don't move your batteries unless you want traction issues and a rusty you cant control. Also go with a slightly higher gearing to keep her tame. I know some people have said they have luck with this type of setup but IMO i'm strongly against it. It just builds a heaver truck and/ or throws it off balance making the rear slide around and rip through rubbers. Watch this video. My slipper was a little loose and it was a little rich so its not going as fast as it should cause I was letting my buddy use it as I recorded. The front end is on the ground almost all the time. The steering is right where I want it. Pay attention to how she handles. Even with cool weather, some wet pavement & crapy dirt hawgs, traction was not an issue. I had the road rage tires on earlier that day but they came off the rims cause I used the wrong glue. It was just what I was going for. Its so easy to drive. It only took my buddy a minute to get used to it and get up to speed.

[ttThree]

With all respect I was talking about straight line high speed runs. I dont know what speed you looking at but if you aim on 60 mph you will need weight. On the other hand I dont think nitro rustlers do 60 mph so you many not need "special" stuff...

[Shaggy101086]

um i've clocked mine at 88mph lol but my build is lightened up with a 3.3 and high gearing; 66t spur and 22t cb. Like I said, if you know how to set up your truck, its not an issue. Going higher with the gearing is key. You trade that pull on the front end for a much higher top speed. Soften up the rear suspension. By letting the rear end plant, the front looses the need to come up as much. The rear bumper will also bottom out sooner putting you back on all 4 just in case. Also keep in mind if the front is too stiff, bumps will bounce the front end up. You want the ride hight as low as possible for you conditions with the front a little lower than the rear, witch is known as rake. Use your cambers to balance oversteer or understeer so you can control your truck but remember the straighter up and down the wheels are, the less resistance, more speed. It takes a long time and lots of effort but If you go through every part of the truck, tuning for perfection, these trucks can be crazy fast and easy to drive on road beasts. What are you guys getting for top speeds? Theres a video on youtube of one going 105 but now I cant find it. My goal is to hit 100 when I have the money for a big block.

[screamsatchildren]

yea even with my stock rustler my cop friend clocked mine at 59mph even tho it was still winding up!!! but yea i like going fast but that fast its just crazy i just want a street basher i'm no speed demon i just like to watch them run around and the things thats really fun is to set up some cones for a small track and have a race, only one straight then turn after turn some hairpins and some wide. but yea my rustler = slow but with the cornering to make up for it thats why i NEED traction

[chevy-73]

im runing proline road hawgs. they have lasted a long time for me and i got them used. they dont baloon too much i just figgur the more it baloons the faster it will go lol it does get un stable tho

[screamsatchildren]

yea it took me a while to notice it but i surprised myself when i thought about that since these tires balloon up the gearing gets higher increasing the top speed a bit but it does get shaky when it gets to those high speeds but now it doesnt i used angles and precision MM stick to get the steering, camber, and toe nothing short of perfect

[screamsatchildren]

okay so i didnt get the g-locks i may in the future but a friend sold me a pretty much new set of anacondas for $20 i glued them up and screwed them on and it looks great thanks guys for all the help especially Shaggy your shock mods made most of it happen so heres some pics if you guys like looking these things as much as i do well i got 5 pretty good pics of it so here it is my road going nitro rustler

[wagnman]

That looks hot mate, nice one!

[screamsatchildren]

thanks i know it looks stock but its got a full RPM VXL suspension conversion and the anacondas on it i got from a friend only used once for $20 but they do great one they warm up they grip and go!!

[Dustin Fowler]

I am working on turning my Rusty into a street burner and as I was test fitting stuff today I noticed that the nuts that hold on the rear tires wont seat all the way down and I cant get them tight. I looked into and the Rusty and Jato both use the same size nuts. Is the problem that I dont have the right tire tool to get all the way in there? My rusty is used and not sure if the nuts that the previous owner are the right ones or not I am going to get a set of bolts from my LHS but i wanna make sure that I dont need a certain wrench to tighten them fully. If so does anyone know the part number for that wrench? I have tried every tool I have at my disposal and cant find one that will fit into the space and also should I have a bearing behind the nut?

[screamsatchildren]

i had the same problem when i put the VXL wheels and suspension on my rustler i needed to get the wheel nuts for the electric 1/10 vehicles too the main thing with the old nuts was there was no flange so the nuts had less surface area to grab the wheel and hold it securely to the axle. If you still have the nitro rear wheels idk about them they have the inset thats hard to get anything in them, and that is one of three reasons i went to the electric suspension.

[Dustin Fowler]

Yeah I ran into that problem with ironically the same Rc. My gf has a pede vxl and out of boredome I was going to mount her wheels on my rusty and they wouldnt tighten up all the way so I am going to take the wheel in with me tomorrow and see if the tech knows of a way to get them to mount on properly.

[screamsatchildren]

your GF has pede!! lucky all the women i meet say if they stay the RC's go and well the RC stayed........... lol but yea i'm sure your LHS has a remedy

[Dustin Fowler]

Yep she has a pede, she is prolly going to do the Lipo sometime this summer. I ran into another issue, appearantly the previous owner installed different drive shafts and the thread are alot bigger than i can get a tool into the rim opening so i am going to have to wait till next weekend to get back to the LHS and buy the stock ones and reinstall them, plus my carrier pin is sliding out and chewed up the a arm. But I knew buying a used one there would be issues so its all part of the game as they say. This will give me time to work on the new body I have and get it painted and looking the way I want it too.

[screamsatchildren]

yea buying used is good sometimes but you have to really look i got my T-MAXX used and i looked it over for a good 20 mins before getting it but once i seen it was all stock i got it but my Nitro Rustler i bought it new so nothing but upgrades for it

[Dustin Fowler]

I bought my used rusty off of e bay so there was only so much I could see, but I am loving it.

[screamsatchildren]

yea the rusty is awesome and the jato is faster but its so technical you cant have as much fun with it or do as much as you can with the rusty

[Dustin Fowler]

Yeah when I got my revo i was looking at either the jato or the slayer but figured ill get a revo then Ill get a used rusty and just make it up how I want it and turn it into a street burner, well it will be once I get the kinks and bugs worked out. The good thing about it is that none of the parts are expensive and I can do it all myself.

[screamsatchildren]

yea and for the shock mod i used the the shock mounting bushings i took the shock shaft out and under the piston i placed a mounting bushing under each one rebuilt the shocks and it gave me about 3/4" drop which is plenty for my streets also with that amount of drop i didnt have to do anything to the springs like cut up a little so that was good overall good mod to do and even better still less cleaning cause streets dont have that much dirt/mud on them