Looks like I broke my chassisWhat other than a chassis am I going to need to fix this.
view of rear end from bottom.
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Looks like I broke my chassisWhat other than a chassis am I going to need to fix this.
view of rear end from bottom.
![]()
you broke your skidplate, not the chassis
All I need now is to set a new lap record.
ok, so broken read bulkhead, broken skid plate (screw corner snapped off) and a cracked chassis.
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Chassis, rear bulkhead, rear skid plate, would like to think that everything else is "probably" OK.
Double check your hinge pins in case they bent when the bulkhead cracked.
You can usually get a chassis with all the attachments (battery doors, shock mounts) from eBay really cheap. Much cheaper than buying a bare chassis from the LHS. check them out.
(RAH)² (AH)³ + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA)² + (OOH)(LA)²
it looks like a job to replace to chassis... is that the case?, is there a tougher chassis available? I know it's be the topic of conversation before, but in the real world... am I better off sticking with stock
Last edited by ksb51rl; 06-12-2012 at 07:59 PM. Reason: Language
Cameron, you're in Edmonton?
Calgary here.
Last edited by natethegreat; 05-26-2012 at 04:33 PM. Reason: spelling
You can get a KD(Kershaw Designs) full aluminum chassis... Not sure how well it'll hold up but it may work for you.
Its a lot of work but nothing too difficult. Id say the hardest part of changing everything over is getting the front half of the center drive shafts installed. Its tough to get them lined up (well for me and my fat hands it is lol)
As far as how tough they are, the stock chassis is pretty darn tough. Takes a heck of a wallop to break them, that's the nice part about the chassis it will flex a bit before it ever breaks. I would even venture to say it wont break till something else does ie: your bulkhead, once it let go the chassis had no choice but to follow.
And yep im up in Edmonton.![]()
Last edited by ksb51rl; 06-12-2012 at 07:59 PM.
(RAH)² (AH)³ + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA)² + (OOH)(LA)²
I'm seeing that now actually. If the bulkhead wouldn't have broken nor would have the chassis. Integy makes some aluminum bulkheads, I may check them out.
Now how do I get the bulkhead off this thing? Do I have to take the rear end completely apart?
Last edited by ksb51rl; 06-12-2012 at 07:59 PM.
This would be my shopping list from integy, looks like it would be expensive! Nobody seems to have stock of this stuff.
Billet Machined Front Bulkhead for 1/10 Traxxas E-Revo Revo 3.3 T3295BLUE
Billet Machined Rear Bulkhead for 1/10 Traxxas E-Revo Revo 3.3 T3296BLUE
Evolution3 Rear Skid Plate for Traxxas Revo 3.3, E-Revo, Summit & Slayer(both) T3195BLUE
Evolution3 Mid-Front Skid Plate for Revo 3.3, E-Revo, Summit & Slayer(both) T3196BLUE
Evolution-6 Billet Machined Alloy Center Skid Plate for Traxxas 1/10 E-Revo T4112BLUE
Last edited by natethegreat; 05-27-2012 at 09:44 AM.
also.
add center drive shaft to the list of the busted.
I wouldn't waste your time or money with the Integy stuff. My opinion anyways. Some guys have run it with success, but i don't use and will not use anything from them. Very VERY cheap grade aluminum is used. And because it looks all purdy and shiny they think they can charge a mint for it.
Rear bulkhead can be removed by pulling 5 screws. the 3 that hold your wing mount on, and your 2 shock mount screws. your whole rear assembly will come off in 1 piece.
Oh sorry and your center skid plate, you have to remove the back 2 screws at least.
(RAH)² (AH)³ + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA)² + (OOH)(LA)²
Don't go Integy! Too expensive for far below standard quality - go Integy only for the bling looks! Imagine taking a hit like that again with Integy parts lol and you are way up the creek! I learned that the hard way! There are one and two good parts you may be able to get away with - skid plates maybe. But if you are a serious basher... On to the next one.
Ray00
E–Revo │ E-Revo BE
ITCHY THROTTLE FINGER!
Unlucky mate...RC Trucks keep you busy.
I'm a Rock n Rolla !
who makes good aluminum bulkheads then?